Felix

Put a mild reground cam in it. The stock cams are one of the biggest restrictions to improving power in a k series motor.... moreso than the stock carb.

Does the car have heavy duty shocks in the rear? Stiffer shocks will help.

I'm not normally a fan of the ke20 shape, but I must say that she's got a real period 70's street tough look happening with the stance and wheel/tyre combo on it. :sob: I like the colour, suits it well. You might need to throw some stock LCA's on it for RWC.

Nice work. :sob: Now you need to work on getting all that power to the ground.

Pour a heap of Bicarb soda mixed with water in there, and hose that shit out ASAP to deactivate the battery acid and minimise rusting. Then get it on a chassis straightener. Bit of a shame, I thought this thing was one of the best ke2x's I've seen on this forum. Superclean, period correct rims and not trying hard to look like something it isn't.

I wouldn't bother to much with the original motor. By all means give it a freshen up, wrap it in plastic and store it away for a later date if you want to return it to original. Depending on class rules you would be better putting together a decent 5k or even 7k. Torque rules. You will halve your gearchanges with a larger capacity motor.

I'd use whatever pickup matches your sump. The sumps on later motors are a bit deeper, which would explain the longer pickup.

Wire glue?

I seem to remember there was some sort of repair adhesive you could get for rear window demisters. Maybe try a quick google search on it?

:wink: Grow up dude. You being abusive and chucking a hissy fit because you got caught out for excessive bumping purely shows a lack of maturity. You didn't follow the rules and I simply enforced them as part of a moderators job. Why should you be treated any differently to others? Excessive bumping is unfair to other users who can do the right thing. FYI I do have a job. I work as a project manager in IT systems. My time here is purely voluntary. Having to deal with self important idiots makes me wonder why I bother. :y:

I've done something similar myself with the help of 4 others. I had this old shitter ke20 and wanted to pull the motor out of it with the least hassle. We rolled it on its' side, with the intention of removing the gearbox, and to put it back on its' wheels to lift the motor out of the engine bay.... didn't quite work out to plan though. LOL. On its' side we removed the tailshaft, gearbox xmember, bellhousing bolts and disconnected the other crap. The gearbox didn't want to come out easily so I shook the shit out of it to have the gearbox come out in my hands. At the same time the engine mounts broke and the motor fell out the otherside and landed on the ground. :wink: Time from start to finish for motor and gearbox removal was 10 minutes. :y:

Do a search on google. You will find that Boge's are considered to be way better than Munroe and even KYB. If you are going for a race/drift setup look at Bilsteins or Koni's, though expect to pay a LOT more.

They're in my E32 BMW. The car has awesome handling for its' size. The ride is firmish, yet compliant, and very sporting. The car has the factory sports suspension, so the shocks and springs are well matched. Yea I'm impressed. When the shocks need replacing I'd go for more Boge's.

Yep, no worries. I understand now. :)

Hey Trav, got a link for the xbox mod you did? I wouldn't mind modding my kids xbox to save them scratching their games discs.

Boge shocks are good and oem for BMW. The thing you need to ask yourself is how you are going to fit coils to your rear suspension when it has leaf springs from the factory?

Maybe some spare radiator hoses and water. Fanbelt if you have a spare.

Tume, do a search on google for a region unlock code for your dvd player. My missus has unlocked both our dvd players by doing this.

Still too big for a 5k. The 32/36 webers are designed for 1.8-2Lt motors.

:y:

I've found second gear is what breaks. The later boxes have more reinforcing on the case, plus from what I understand the bearings/shafts are a bit beefier. I've never stripped one down myself, just replaced as needed. Also you have to keep in mind the age, km's travelled, plus possible abuse of prior owners.

Personally I have found the ke70 K50 to be a lot stronger than the ke30 K40 boxes. I guess a lot of it comes down to how you drive.

Have a look in this PDF file.. Part no. 83 is the auxillary venturi's. Fuel should only be coming out of the center of it when the carb is on the main circuit, NOT at idle. Yep that is the power valve diaphram (part 14). The power valve (part 21) itself is actually in the bottom of the float chamber, and the "stick" (of the diaphram) as you called it pushes on the power valve to control fuel enrichment under load. At idle under high vacuum the diaphram should pull up closing the powervalve. If the diaphram is rooted you will have full fuel enrichment at idle. With the top of the carb off you should be able to press in the power valve diaphram, and with a finger block the vacuum port for it, and it should stay in until you remove your finger.

Towe, if you don't mind the place, how about the possibility of another position in the organisation? You might be able to talk to management, citing medical reasons for less physically demanding work and come to some sort of compromise. Really though, you are the one who has to live with the long term effects of back problems.

I'd be checking the float level. If you can see fuel coming out of the auxillary venturi at idle the float level is most likely to high. Also check the powervalve. The powervalve is supposed to add fuel enrichment under load. If the diaphram develops a crack/pinhole you'll get full fuel enrichment under vacuum, which isn't what you want.