Felix

Geez get over yourself. You are the one coming across as the "know it all". Taz was just giving his point of view which was legit, and then you go getting your knickers in a twist and spitting the dummy. If you don't want to be seen as a dumb kid, then don't act like one. I should lock this thread, but I think I'd rather just sit back and let it run its' course. :bash:

They were most likely standard on the ke10-S models which came with disc brakes and the twincarb k-b motor. I agree nice score. I'm particularly liking those new tailights. :bash:

Censorship. Maybe they should censor the TV news, or make it PG rated before 8.30 at night. We don't let our kids watch it. Skyhooks - Horror Movie Horror Movie, it's the 6.30 news.

Look into pinchweld.

I don't know what answer you are expecting. Guys have previously answered that it is a direct bolt in, though you may need to change the bolt on ancillaries (alternator, water pump etc.) to suit. It will give a useful increase in torque and make the car a bit quicker.

With compression it is really dependent on the cam you run. If you run higher than ideal CR you have to back down the timing which leads to below optimum performance and makes a motor run flatter than it would if the CR was matched to todays fuels. The best all round carb for a k series motor is a 28/36 DCD weber (especially a 5k). A downdraft. :bash: Have a read here paying attention to TepiTheFinns posts. He is running a 36/36 DCD weber where both throats open together. LOL, not much difference to sidedrafts. With the 28/36 DCD you have primary/secondary opening which works much better in the low end and is better for economy/drivability.

I'd like to take this chance to apologise to Lexxi. We have a lot of things happening in our lives atm and it influenced how I addressed her.

Taz for some reason your link got screwed with. :bash: Here is the link Taz was trying to link to :y:

Here is a scan from a manual, which sorta gives you and idea of how it works.

:bash: :y: That is what happens if you remove the front leaves, and fit ke2x coils WITHOUT a swaybar. Been there done that. Edit: after rereading and trying to decipher Cams post, I think he is maybe talking about having swaybars both front and rear? I wouldn't bother with a rear bar, unless I was running either an LSD or locked diff. There is nothing wrong with running a swaybar with the stock front leaf suspension setup. It is a MASSIVE improvement over stock, and I highly recommend it. I've got a ke15 and ke16, both with the whiteline front bars. My ke15 has had a few different setups over the years. I initially ditched the leaves and went to spaced ke3x HD front shocks with cut ke2x springs in an attempt to lower the front of the car (which didn't really make much difference). This removed 2 inches of droop, to match the shorter Tokico rear shocks it runs. It was VERY dicey before fitting a front swaybar. With the healthy little 4k in it and cheapy 155 tyres the car could easily arc up the inside rear for a good 100m or more up the road in the dry. It was super scary in the wet as with so much weight transfer the car would get sideways without even trying, and with such a narrow track/short wheelbase it was a major handful. Fitting the front swaybar removed all the excess body roll, and helps keep the inner rear tyre on the ground during cornering. Coupled with a set of Yoky A539's the car totally changed personality. It made the handling neutral, in both the wet or dry it drove exactly the same. It was still scary, but in a totally different way... You could enter corners at ridiculously scary speeds and it would just want to go faster. LOL, it became frustrating on mountain roads because you were always catching bikes and having them slow you up through corners. I did put the leaves back in for a while with cut stock coils. It handled much the same. The main difference is how the car handled on the edge. With the leaves the car is more suited to a point and squirt driving style... ie. you need to get all your braking over with before turn-in. If you overcook things the car is more prone to understeer. Sudden lift-off doesn't really change things to much. Without leaves the car suits my driving style more allowing me to brake later down to the corner apex, and also less prone to understeer if you seriously over cook a corner. Sudden throttle liftoff makes the car suck-in back on line, but tend to tail out. I'd fit a swaybar and go with the leaves until you get more used to how the car handles on the edge. I used to have a ke30 and those things are so much easier and less dicey to drive on the edge seeing the wheelbase/track is longer/wider. Yes with the whiteline bars there is the issue with the swaybar hitting the calipers, and forcing fluid back to the mastercylinder, requiring you to pump the pedal a few times to regain brakes. I've found replacing pads more often reduces it happening. Also the ke1/2x calipers with the long thin pads are more affected. The jap ke3x calipers with the square pads are least affected. Winding the steering lock bolts out a bit helps.

$250 sounds pretty good to me for everything. Check out the prices people want for just a 5 speed in the for sale section, and you will find that is pretty good value. Especially if the seller offers some sort of guarantee on the box.

Sympathy isn't going to get assignments and study finished. It takes time. No, I never said that. It is about prioritising things and getting the important things out of the way first, to make way for You time. Procrastinating here is not going to get all your work done.

Hey if you don't want replies to your posts, don't post on a public forum. My wife had it worse than you from what you have just written. She was going to school, working part time, having to feed all the animals, cook the food, do the chores, run after her mum, help out in the family business (with no pay), and help build a house. She had no time to go socialize with friends, even if she had time, as her mum was that strict she wouldn't have allowed it in most cases anyway. In the rare chance she did get to go anywhere she would have to pay her parents fuel money. She was the only one in the family that helped her dad build their house, as the older 2 sisters and one brother couldn't be bothered. She'd do that during the week in the evenings when there wasn't so much on in the family workshop. On the weekends she worked in the local general store from 6.30 to 2.30, and then go home to help with the house. Not to mention having to pay their mortgage out of her earnings (her savings for a car and uni) when times were tough, the older siblings couldn't be bothered helping. She'd leave home at 6.30 in the morning, get to school at 7.30, after school help out at the workshop until 5.30, get home at 6.30 and then have to do all the jobs such as feed dogs, cats, horse, cows, chooks, milk the cow morning and night. etc. The one thing she never did was complain and expect sympathy from others. She never went "oh poor me". Funny thing was she still managed to get an OP of 4 in year 12 even with all the distractions to her study, which she had to squeeze in between 8.30 until she went to bed. Her motto's are "what doesn't kill me makes me stronger", "actions speak louder than words", and finally "positive thinking will get you anywhere". She is a goer, she gave birth naturally to our twins with no drugs, no swearing or yelling. One was breach. So yea, I've got no idea..... WGMG is whingers who are so much harder done by then everyone else.

I've seen some manufacturers use ignition retard on gearchanges to smooth shifts, soften drivetrain shocks and to aid traction.

Oh you poor thing. How are you ever going to cope once you move out and have to deal with the pressures of the real world? Geez life was so much simpler when I was a teenager living at home with mum & dad, and going to high school.

I just saw this and it reminded me of this thread. I want. :rolla:

Definitely. The E32 is a little bit different as you don't see them everyday like flat black ke70's.

As others have said check the valve clearances. If you've had say 1mm skimmed off the head and the clearances are supposed to be say 0.2-0.3mm then the valves won't be closing.

Idle cutoff solenoid?

Just turbo the G180. Guys were running 12-13 second quarters with them with drawthru turbo setups 12-15 years ago. The stock gearboxes and diffs are very strong. Home of Australia's fastest/quickest G series without nitrous [email protected]

The only problem is in a small business there is less protection from workplace dismissal laws. You do as they say or you are easily replaceable in their eyes. If you go for a job, suss out the business well. If the place has a low staff morale and high staff turnover keep looking. The biggest problem with employers is that a lot of them seem to think they are doing you a favour by giving you a job, and that they own you. The actual reality of it is that they are paying YOU for YOUR TIME. What most businesses don't seem to understand is that its' biggest asset is its' staff. Happy staff exude a positive impression to the public, who want to come back for repeat service. Unhappy staff send negative vibes which puts a damper on the customer experience and makes them want to go elsewhere. Oh yea another thing, don't financially overstretch yourself with needless loans and credit cards for materialistic shit. Employers love this, as you need them more so than if you maintain financial freedom. Just think about why you go to work everyday, and how much of your time is paying for that new car, widescreen tv, stereo, etc.

The T121 is a Kent Cams Mild Road grind 270 Degrees duration in timing 26/64 ex timing 69/21 in lift 9.74mm ex lift 9.59mm 109 Degrees Lobe Separation Angle 0.30mm 0.36mm valve clearances. It is very similar to the Tighe 113 and Tighe 104 that quite a few guys are running around here. Will give a very strong midrange with a wide powerband and a mild lope at idle.

Flat black E32. :P It would look better in satin black.

Dyno figures are relative and only useful for tuning if using the same dyno. Yes it would be interesting to compare his figures to a healthy stock 4age dynoed on the same day at the same dyno. No doubt Philbey got a massive gain getting his car tuned, with a big improvement between before and after runs. Think about it. You do a proper rebuild on a 5k, (say $1200-2000) and add a set of twin webers/dellortos with manifold, linkages, tuning parts and filters (up to a grand easy) and you are in the hole by 2 to 3 grand. That is not including extractors, exhaust etc. which you would want with whichever motor you end up going for. If you are running a lightweight ke1x or a KP36 publica with limited underbonnet working space, by all means stick with a K series. With the later cars with more under bonnet real estate it just makes sense to start out with a bigger motor, with more torque from the get go and further tuning potential. Look at the old escorts which came with 2L motors in a car the same size as a ke3x. A ke1x + 1 adult passenger is comparable to the weight of a ke2x. A ke2x + 1 adult passenger is comparable to the weight of a ke3x. Taz, I just can't help thinking that if you stuffed your turbo motor into a ke1x it would be so much quicker. After all a ke3x is about 20% heavier than a ke1x. 20% is a big difference to the overall power to weight ratio.

Agree totally! I think it is funny the guys who are freaking out about rust when it is faux patina. :P The ratrodding crowd have been doing it for years.