Felix

You can get cheap heavy gauge wire from truck wreckers.

gas struts.

Possibly, though it doesn't happen that often. Maybe rip off the rocker cover and check the valve clearances.

You've been waiting a while. Should charge him rental on the shed space. :)

Cap, leads, valve clearances, gunged up plugs? Done a compression test?

I was preparing my first car for a roadworthy (ke30 2 door sedan), and had to replace the rear section of the exhaust. The flange kept leaking, so I was tightening the hell out of it with everything I had, when the socket slipped... The ratchet handle smacked me fair in the middle of the forehead. I don't think I was out overly long, but I must have laid there for ten minutes or more after I came too. I don't think I've ever seen so many stars. LOL. Worst thing about it was the ratchet was an old sidchrome one, with a knurled metal grip. I had all these little squares punctured in my forehead after I washed the blood away. :D

You couldn't maybe run a set of short stroke shocks and run it under the diff?

I'm really digging that '25 with the hotwires. I keep thinking that it would look awesome with a set of deep dish hotwires and flares.

Yep, like vacuum advance, but better. I've got no idea about the coil. Probably says somewhere in the Build manual for the prog ignition. Just had a look in the Bosch ignition catalog. Some sigmas DO share the same cap and button as the corolla bosch dizzys. The sigma ones don't have any listings on points, so I'd say they are electronic. Might be able to mix an match parts?

Been there done that. :dance: Sometimes you have to learn the hard way. Wasn't as bad as knocking myself out with a ratchet though.

No. Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. Basically it measures the engine vacuum or load placed on the motor. You probably could go without one, but you would get much better performance if you used one. You could always run an electronic dizzy. Alternatively if you have a Bosch points dizzy, have a look around at the wreckers at other cars with Bosch based electronic dizzys. You may be able to mix and match bits to convert one to electronic. From what I remember sigmas look like they might be of use.

I found the build manual for the Programmable High Energy Ignition. 9 megs.

Pretty much. The Universal High Energy Ignition kit is the next upgraded version of the one I am running. My kit uses transistors to drive the coil. The newer kit probably uses FET's. In a carbed car you will need the Ignition Coil Driver (which fires the coil) as it is used in standalone mode. If you fitted it to an EFI car it alters the signal to the existing ignitor/s which still drives the coil/coil packs (some EFI cars coils have built in ignitors). Either way, you have to buy a separate hand controller kit (KC5386) which plugs into the Programmible High Energy Ignition unit, to allow programming. And yes, the ignition curve becomes totally adjustable, so you don't need to worry about dizzy regraphing. It uses a MAP sensor so the timing maps are load dependent, better than a straight dizzy recurve. You can add on an optional Knock Sensor kit, which would be great to take into account differences in fuel quality and temp... Also be good for carbed forced induction.

I have been running a "Silicon Chip" High Energy Ignition kit on my ke15 for the last 5 years or so. My kit came from Dick Smith, but was the same as sold by Jaycar. They are an awesome upgrade for a points dizzy. The current set of points has been in the car since I installed the HEI kit. It eliminates the contact wear in points completely, you just have to check the gap every year or so to account for rubbing block wear. The newer programmable kit with the hand controller would be a great for fine tuning your ignition curve.

A 5k head has a 16 cc combustion chamber.... You do the math and report back with your findings. :hmm:

I have a ke10 that was painted in high opacity white before I got it. I think it looks cheap and tacky on an old 60's car. A good thing about it I guess is that the paint is cheap, and it makes for easy touchups down the line. No rooting around with colour matching.

Most likely. The closeness to the inner guard and the fact that the filters are squished up, is probably restricting airflow into the carb and making it run richer than it would normally if it had more room.

Don't go a a straight white with no tinters. It would look a lot better in a creamy white. Have a look around at colour charts and find a nice white from the era of the car. Definitely put the chrome trim back on. They look so much better with it.

Yea, you need to get that front end down. Looks like a dog with worms draggin its ass atm. :D

The ke55/70 uni's (RUJ1786) are the same as those on earlier 6 cyl holdens and a lot of other larger cars. In fact the HK v8 307 manual used them. They are the internal circlip type. Ke1x's with borgwarner diffs also used them. I'm not sure if a ke1x jap and borgwarner diff flange share the same bolt spacing.

Yep, so long as you don't get any coil bind. Ideally you want a minimum of 10 thou clearance between the coils at full lift.

Seeing as you are running an auto I would go conservative on the cam, unless you want to start playing with rebuilt stall converters. To much cam with a low stall converter may lead to either stalling or the motor wanting to overide the brakes at idle whilst in drive. From there I would say that you wouldn't need to worry overly much about engine balancing as with a cam to suit your auto it isn't really going to be making max power around 8 grand. You could always do a little balancing your self with a set of digital scales to save a few bucks. As for valve springs, just shim them. Good for an extra 500-1000 rpm for bugger all cost. :D

Geez, a few sick corollas out there. LOL, my overweight (1300kg) AWD 2.2L subaru liberty auto gets 10km/L, and it isn't running the best. It has a dodgy injector. My ke15 with a warm 5k averages 12km/L with me zipping around in. Gets more with the missus driving it. The mother in laws TE gemini wagon gets 13-14km/L. It is very slow though, probably comparable to a stock ke70 or 3k ke30.

Tom, I am not totally sure what ratios the autos ran. I do know that the manual sedans (with jap diffs) and sprinters had a 4.22 ratio and the manual wagons a 4.44 standard. You probably need to jack up a wheel and do some counting. :hmm: As Raven said, you can bolt later jap ke2x and ke3x centers straight into a jap ke1x housing. You may have to change the rear driveshaft flange as they changed the bolt patterns on the diff pinion flange at some stage. Not sure if this coincided with when Toyota upgraded the diff ringear from 5.7" to 6.0", think this was at the start of the ke3x model run. Pretty sure the manual (jap diffed) ke20 sedan and ke25 coupe had 4.22 diffs with the wagons having a 4.44 like with the ke1x. I know ke30 2 door manual sedans, and manual ke35s with jap diffs have 4.33 diffs. The ke36 pano had a 4.55. Not sure of the ke3x 4 door sedans or wagons. Doug

Maybe try adding an extra throttle return spring, and oil the carb linkages.