Felix

why not just use the 5k head, rather than making life difficult for yourself. it is a later better design. and the ports are a little larger than a 4k head, not to mention the exhaust ports of a 5k have a smooth port roof. also the exhaust valves have the stems reduced in diameter for better flow. with any other head (apart from 4k dished) you will have to skim the head shitloads to get some sort of decent compression ratio with dished pistons. reducing the deck thickness on a head too much reduces it's stiffness, and makes it more prone to warpage and blowing head gaskets....not to many seem to realise this. the bigport heads have ports which are too large for the valve size. so unless you are going to run bigger valves, better results can be achieved with a later head. also the bigport heads suffer from a pathetic valve stem sealing arrangement. a change to later valves and guides with the clip on stem seals is a wise move, otherwise you could have troubles with excessive oil consumption as a few others who have gone down the bigport route have found.

i agree with jamie: :P

the welsch plug is not a casting, there is actually one in there. they can pop out..... a 3k welsch plug head has exactly the same size valves as all later heads. the only head that had different sized valves was the original "K" head, which were smaller.

i would call it more a controlled decompression lockup. if he didn't put it sideways he would have understeered off the road. notice how he has really bogged it down after he recovers. if all else fails try the above ^^^^^^^^^^^

i would think you would want to run a MAP sensor. otherwise how is the ECU to know what sort of load the engine is running at?

i've had hassles with these stupid things before. on some ke10 and ke20 carbs there is a blanking bolt. you just put it in your later carb allowing you to do away with the solenoid. if you remove the solenoid: in hot weather, or if you have overadvanced timing, or a lean mixture......you could experience runon or dieselling when you turn your car off.

these guys are giving them away then

surely must be cheaper to buy a complete 20v setup, than to convert the orig engine to quad throttle bodies, plus the cost of an aftermarket computer. they can fit in a ke17:

why not just fit a complete 20v engine, with factory computer? probably simplest/cheapest way to go.

:P yeah jamie

bonus, didn't think of that.

the little red ke25 rallycar in the motorkhana video Redwarf posted was his own. top run :down:

do you think you would get twice the benefit it you put one on your exhaust too?

hmmm..... a motorkhana track is only about 100m long by 100m wide (if that). runs take less than a minute, half the turns are tighter than uturns. cars with locked diffs and hydraulic handbrakes rule supreme.....nothing whatsoever like driving on the street. it was best described to me as "the thinking persons burnout competition". probably don't have many of these around where ur from, i'd say.

it is not that i can't drift, it is just faster on the road without. at a motorkhana, then the fastest way is sideways......

this is so funny, drift lessons from the expert with the stock 3k ke35.

from your website: drifting is all about posing, not going fast. :down:

might make a 3k drift then you think???

:down:

research "traction circle".

tool squeezer!

v8 supercars run locked diffs. funny how the fast cars don't slide much, yet with worn tyres they drift backwards through the pack real fast. lol, on the rollaclub drive up the mountain a few weeks ago, there was a member drifting behind me.... he was using both lanes of the road, yet i kept losing them through the twisties and i was nowhere near the limit in mine, and i only needed one lane. if you want to drift, go buy a radio controlled car. least then you can bounce off gutters and the like without killing innocents.

the jap model ke70's had a 3.9 AFAIK.

LOL, my 5k does 4200 in 5th at 100km/h. has 185/60r13 tyres and a 4.55:1 diff. fuel consumption was fine when i was living on the mountain, and doing alot of 60km/h work. now living out in the country i find it is not so good, extended cruising at over 4500 rpm uses the juice, although i'm still getting around 11km/L. acceleration is good for passing... :down: thinking of going back to a 4.22 with the 5k.

not leaking out the dipstick tube? it took me awhile to realise mine would lift the dipstick when giving it a good flogging. a couple of cable ties around the engine mount to hold the dipstick down work a treat, but make checking the oil a bit more of a chore. also check your fuel pump (if orig mechanical unit) isn't leaking oil from underneath.