Tally

man this makes me want to stick with a K engine in the KE25 and rebuild it crazy specs! Is their really any advantage for going upright k series performance wise?

Thanks guys all good now, was my door rubbers, didnt have them on properly, had the LH rubber on the drivers side and RH rubber on the passenger side DOH! was causing them to scrunch up on the hinge side of the doors. Yea also as the passenger side was a KE20 door made to fit its never going to be perfect as its from a different car let alone a sedan version... Plan to find a genuine KE25 door and replace it at some stage.... Yea guards are sikaflexed on, not going no where but I can still manage to get in and un-do the bolts with a spanner, just takes a bit more effort :jamie: but the door is lined up not going anywhere... Now when you close the door it clicks in and then you push it again and it locks in so I'm happy... in other news got some full orange indicator lenses from my mate dave and he also gave me a micro TE27 Levin :jamie:

That's what I'm talking about... They need to go in more but they can't move anymore... Just so frustrating when shit don't work how you anticipated... I've certainly had a few moments I wanted to take it to sims metal lmao...

so started put my doors back together, cleaned up window regs and installed locking mechanism etc etc and put door rubbers on. Doors hinges all lined up, all good but when I close the door and it locks both sides stick out about 5mm, so not flush with the quarter panel. Think the problem lies with the hooks/strikers that the doors lock on too but ive pushed them in as far as they go and still got a 5mm gap... never was like this and its both sides...

I vote no vinyl roof, a good panel beater can metal finish the roof straight....

no because you can't take the bell housing off a K50 as its not bolted on but actually part of the gearbox...

Ok so what you need is t-18 rear bumper brackets. You don't use the huge/heavy duty stock ke70 brackets. Take them off the car... Once you have the these you can mount the bumper. Now bolt the brackets to the bar and line it up against the car. The angle of the ends are different so it looks abit funny: KE70 = / T-18 = \ Now if you line it up so its centered you can then proceed to get a black marker and just mark the beaver panel where the bracket holes line up. When I did mine they landed on spot welds which I'm pretty sure are meant for the chrome bumpers that came on e7s overseas. Now if you tuck your head underneath the rear of the car you will notice they land if i recall correctly on the tabs of the chassis rails on either side. Might be hard to understand without pics but should start you off. This has been covered many times here and on ae86dc so a simple search will come up with more answers as thats what I did. Cheers Tally

Ok so update... been a bit busy with TAFE, but holidays soon so should see some major progress.. Removed the roof lining this afternoon, going to get a new one made up. Decided that I'm going black interior and 20V 4age... Still not rubbed/buffed yet, havnt had time, need to work out what colour silver I'm going to spray the trims. I want a gunmetal grey colour... Once roof lining is done, rub back, buff, windows in and exterior put together....

now were talking :) Love the KE10's What are the 'plans' hehe

Looks overrated man! Love it! Just need some KE25 corner garnishes :)

I personally wouldn't go bigger then a 14" on a E2#...

cool get some pics up of your RX3 :)

Looking great man!!! can't wait to see you give all those RX3's a run for their money hahaha should be fantastic! Also firewall and tunnel mods :abuse: I wish more people did KE25 drag cars, havnt been as popular as other makes/shapes of the same vintage in drag racing....

WOW things are taking shape, love to see some current pics! Going all out!!!!! I actually like that colour! The carbon fiber work you mentioned sounds very interesting, can't wait to see pics. I know you can get fiberglass panels in NZ and you can get carbon fiber stuff for KE25/TE27 from Japan! Keep up the great work!!!

Yea see it all the time, shes always to quick for me to put a note on her car when she comes into the carpark LOL

I demand updates!!!!

haha same problem I had. On a KE70 it goes to the thermostat housing where that sensor is in the pic. Looks like u got a 3K thermostat housing with a KE70 water pump. looks like that hose has been blocked off... If you don't like the idea of having that hose blocked off just get a KE20 waterpump, heaps on eBay all the time, or obviously try find a good price on one at a auto parts store...

No longer available...

They look great man! Was going to that with mine but couldnt be stuffed lol...

I totally agree with you guys will look much better but I was lazy today and just continued to put it back together lol... they did come factory with some black sprayed on the radiator support to put more emphasis on the front end area. Which makes it look nice. Got bonnet, front apron and guards on today :D sorry about the shitty iPhone pic, am in a rush to go to work lol.

Yea I know what ya mean but also remember black radiator goes in the middle.

Got engine in tonight:

appreciate that taz, but save you the hassle, shouldnt be hard to find a good one here.

because of the different heater hose setups on the corollas E2# E3# E5# E7# the thermostat housing and waterpump is different between all of them. So as I got a new waterpump, its for a E30 with two heater hose outlets, so I need to get a thermostat housing with no hose outlets otherwise I'm going to have 3 outlets with only two hoses to fit. Stock KE25 has one hose going to thermostat and the other going to the carby side of the waterpump. the water pump I have has a outlet on either side, making fitting the hoses a little trickier... kinda see what I'm getting at here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=9859

I'm talking about the lower thermostat housing where the thermostat sits in... not the top outlet that goes to the radiator. ill give em a try thanks anyway...