camerondownunder88

Raven I think there is more intake noise there than exhaust motor noise..lol Cameron

Hi, Today I was on the last leg of installing my 5K into the KE15 and the 5K is missing the small bearing that goes into the crank and supports the front of the gearbox input shaft. Now I need this bearing as the weight of the clutch plate makes the input shaft slightly sag and over time this will cause wear and when I engage the clutch it will be off center and make the car run bad. So i am wondering Where can i get a puller to get this bearing out of the crank? As I have a 3K here with a brand NEW bearing and I now want it out of the 3K so I can put it into the 5K. Cheers Cameron P.S. Does anyone know the bearing part number or size eg 608? So I could even possibly buy a new bearing?

Hi, Matt I would of loved that 300...lol Well well catch up soon enough I so want to have a ride in that corolla..lol Cameron

update: Been playing with the 5K finishing off the cam shaft swap. I have had to do this after the 5K snapped the original cam shaft blew all 8 hydro lifters and limped on that for 2 weeks so got big holes in bottom of the lifters now :yes: But all fixed it now sports a stock 4K-C cam (should of dashed out for a regrind :hmm: )for it and new 3F lifters. Had a few push rod issues but there now solved :sob: and it is running 4K-C push rods fit like a glove ;) But this is not an easy task. First all push rods are to long short etc but 4K-C one from a KE70 were NEARLY the right length jsut to long. The KE70 push rod would go under the rocker arm with the adjuster wound out (also will point out the head is shaved a fair amount on this motor) this was no good. Thre was no valve clearence, at full lift the push rod was pushing on the rocker arm not the ball of the adjustment screw. So to solve it I figured I needed rocker arms with less metal near the adjuster so the push rod at full lift would not hit it. So I referred to the 3K TRD manual as they used lightened linished stock rockers so I made sure I could grind where I wanted to grind. So I ground the under side near the adjuster made it thinner but still kept a good radius to the bushing area and strong. Picture below notice middle rocker is now thinner (ignore the short and different push rods..LOL So I ground all of them down and re-assembled the rocker shaft and installed it. Now the 4K-C push rods fitted and were good but still JUST touched at full lift. Not wanting to weaken the rocker more I decided to see if I could cut down and push rod cup. As OLD K motors and some early 3K had a really shallow cup on the top. So I decided to grind back the cup on the top of the 4K-C push rods so they didnt have a deep as cup but there still deeper than original 3K ones and hopefully will still stay in at 8000 RPM. Picture below of ground down push rods: Now push rods werent sitting level :lolcry: But you can see how the cup is shallower. So I cleaned them up installed thema dn WOW at full lift no touch JUST and with the adjusters a fair way out they don't hit the rocker cover still :hmm: So that is hows it is done folk. Pic below of moded rods iinstalled BUT middle rod is a dished piston 4K rod (they fit with 3F lifters no worries..LOL) I found a set. So Now to put the 5K in the car and tune it up adn see how many RPM it can handle :dance: Cheers Cameron

yeah i know simon, are you friends with him? if you are you should get him to bring you round so you can check it out in person, my name's matt... the car was at yamanto, then raceview, now east ipswich... guess i should stop moving so much hey... lol Hi Matt, I know simon well, you ever at drifting with him? also Id love to come see this car. Out once with simon we went to your old place now in yamanto to see it and you were out So only saw the 300ZX out the back you had after you just got it cheap..lol But hey get back to me ASAP well catch up. Cameron

Good point felix. I am running a KE70 4K-C cam so I should us those specs. If i had the K-B cam still with 10 degrees more duration I could run the smaller gap but hey ill run the newer larger limit I think till I get a cam regrind. Thanks Cameron

Hi, After slowly working out how to get my solid lifter to 5K conversion sorted I decided to set my valve tappet clearence to what the K-B motor had which is 0.010mm intake and 0.023mm exhaust. But tonight I flicked through my 4K manual for a KE70 and it runs 0.020mm intake and 0.030 exhaust clearence. So what would be the better one to go with? the tighter K-B ones or the larger 4K ones? Also what is the possible problems I can expect with a gap that is to small or to large? Cheers Cameron

Hi, Today I got the push rods into the 5K :D I found with 3F lifters and the short steel 4K rocker posts and the adjuster wound out a fair way 4K push rods would fit if the cup was smaller. So I went to my mates engine reco shop to ask him if it is possible to grind down the cup on a push rod to make it fit. He said this is OK as he had a hot 3K once the block adn head was shaved so much before the push rods foweled on the rockers so he ground them down to fit on the cup. So I took 8 4K push rods I had to the grinder made the cups smaller and put them in. They fit :) Below is a picture of them installed and all the tappet gap set right: I found but the casting of some rockers is POOR there are dags all over them. So I found after grinding some 4K rods down to a safe limit they would still hit slightly on about 2 of the push rods. So Not having the time to again remove the rocker gear I put the motor together and plan to test the motor running in the KE15 and see if I blow a push rod. If I do I can look to see what one goes and see if it was one hitting the rocker. But some fit like they were made to be in there from the factory and have a good size cup on them still. So after I test run this motor one day I plan to see if the push rods work. If they go fine I will track down 8 more 4K push rods and those ones put on a lathe and take down properly so there all even and smoother. I also have a spare set of rockers here at home so I will grind them a bit and tidy them up and get them ready to install into the 5K so if I have push rod trouble from hitting the rockers on about 2 of them I can put this set in dag free to get more clearance. Also does anyone in the Ipswich area have any 4K push rods at all? I will need a few more to get another set and be able to lathe them down so if anyone has any not being used PM me. Cheers Cameron Also if all goes well I'll post this how to in the WIKI

Hi, Just an update got out 2 rocker setups tonight short and long posts. I tried the short posts (original 5K ones) with 3K rocker arms for the adjuster. And I found 4K push rods JUST fit the motor :D So on the weekend Ill get pics measurements and make a HOW TO and wiki it for the group. As solid 3F lifters and 4K-c push rods and your on a roll. Cheers Cameron

Hi, OK After dinner I was still interested in these push rods so I got cracking and measuring and came up with what might be a solution. First I measured the height of the rocker posts I have: Original 5K ones: 42mm long 3K aluminum one: 45mm long. So I then put a push rod in that I found tonight in all my corolla parts that is believed to be out of a K motor as it was found in superjamies parts I got off him and it is also VERY similar to a 3K push rod and looks different to a A12 push rod. Picture below: Above the push rod is sitting vertical to show you the shallow top. This rod is the SAME length of a stock 3K-C push rod, but the bottom of the cup at the top is higher up so the adjuster doesn't have to be wound down as much to touch it. Also the diameter of the rod is the same also the construction of the rod is the same as a 3K one so I am pretty sure this is a Toyota item. Well when this push rod is in the 5K with the adjuster wound down so the top of the adjuster where the screw driver slot is level with the locking nut it is about 3mm off touching the bottom of the push rod cup. So I was thinking if I can drop 3mm that is the rocker touching the push rod firm with no valve lash. So screw the adjuster out this would give lash and hey the adjuster would be wound out so prob safer. Where to get 3mm the rocker posts. The ones on there now are 3mm higher than normal ones. So if this works great if it doesn't. My next step will be to go to the local nuts and bolts and buy thinner nuts to place on the adjuster screws. These adjuster the locking nut is about 5mm thick. If I can get some thinner 2mm or 3mm thick locking nuts then I can wind the adjuster bolt down more to touch the push rod while having enough thread in the locking nut. As on aircraft you only need a minimum of one thread out of a bolt and 3 out at the max so thinner nuts will fit this aviation tollerence AND give me 2mm or so more play to reach these odd push rods. So I believe with thinner nuts and shorter posts I will have about 5mm more length to play with and the distance from push rod cup to adjuster ball now is about 3mm so this should be ample enough to make the push rod ouch and be able to adjust it. If this STILL doesn't work my mates dad owns an engine reco shop I will go there on Saturday morning and go through his unwanted rocker gear and see if I can get adjuster bolts that are longer yet screw into 3/4K rocker arms so I can use these to take up the gap. So using these push rods I found fix should be easy but will just take time. Since there is no push rod info added to the wiki and 3F lifter use I will do up a how to when I get mine sorted and put it in the wiki. Also to make this reply longer the part number in the 5K solid lifter motor is the same as what is in the 4K-J and the 4K-U motor. I believe these were dished piston 4K motors?? I so all you need is dish piston 4K push rods and presto will fit and work The part number for the matching push rod is: 13781-13040 or 13781-13020. Also I found the australian released KE70E update model its 4K came up with having push rods the same as the solid lifter 5K so were late odel KE70's dished piston 4K's? As it didnt tell me if it was a 4K-C/E/J/Uetc? Below is the IPC screen print of 4K-U push rods and 5K solid motor push rod part numbers so you can see there the SAME. Above is part number screen for KE70 4K-U motor push rods. Above is part numbers for the 5K motor that has solid lifters in it. Also from the same car as the wiki part numberpage for the lifters. Cheers Cameron P.S. sorry for probably the lack of English skills in this reply its not my strong point..lol

Drum roll...lol Tonight after i got home from my place of study I decided to go thought my push rod tin to find push rods to fit. First rod I got is a weird one looks nothing like a A12 push rod, shorter than a 4K rod and a 3K rod. Looked like it would be a goer..lol Put it in it fitted ;) but i for got cam on that cylinder wasn't bottom dead center so when I turned the motor they were short :bash:. So I tried some standard 4K rods to long tried a 3K standard rod just to short by about 3-5mm so not much. That was with the adjuster of the push rod wound right out so this wound in might do the job but well play with that Wednesday night. But on my 5K I have 3K aluminum long rocker posts as they have oil holes in each one so was a way of mm holding more oil so first start ups oil was in he rocker gear eg less wear. So I got the original 5K steel rockers out and there about 4mm shorter than a 3K rocker posts. So I figure if the adjuster can't be wound down enough to meet the 3K push rod, I will install the shorter rocker gear and presto the 3K push rod should fit the motor. Cheers Cameron P.S. I know doing the 3F solid lifter conversion the push rods in the factory solid 5K are the same as the dished piston 4K rods so if anyone has a 4K dished piston motor with push rods please contact me fast......

True Love KE70......BUT This 5K I got rebuilt 1000km on the motor. So the oil pump was cleaned up eg remove old oil sludge and its internals replaced with new items by the looks when I pulled it apart the other day. So I will be basing my findings off original Toyota measurements. not 100% bullet proof but its better than basing them off nothing like you said above. Cheers Cameron

Des I am keeping the car original as possible yet making it safer (bigger brakes) and more power ( 5K install) and in future handle better (sway bar up grade, new shocks re do rear suspension etc) and a few other gadgets that will make life easier. But it will be all bolt on mods so if I want to restore car to 100% original state well it can all be unbolted so original yet improved I like to think of it as Des..lol Ok now for UPDATES: Well today I spent time putting a stock solid 4K cam into the 5K and putting it back together and giving it a once over. So I also shimmed the oil pump with a 1.99mm thick spacer (i was aiming for 2mm but 1.99 is close enough..lol) and new crank timing chain gear, new timing chain, new lifters, and next weekend Ill do push rods and rockers ;) Then it will be ready to install into the sprinter :bash: I have opted to use the 3F lifters and keep it original Toyota items in the car. Push rod length will be an issue but. So pics below of the day work: Above is start of today proceedings just got cam in and lifters in and was about to remove oil pump. Painting the front flex plate cover. Cheers Cameron

AHAHAH Trouble in paradise maybe..lol Been doing some reading. The chev/holden lifter people usually use for a 5K solid conversion is 3 grams heavier than a 3F lifter. This is because there is more metal on the cam face which in turn makes them thicker so you need a shorter push rod. I was jssut reading an article about a 5K they used 3F lifter and A12 rods were to short as the 3F being a thinner lifter doesnt quite make up the gap. So I might have a push rod issue here. So I am woundering can soemone supply me with push rod lengths please? I need to know push rod lengths of A12 adn 3k,4K and 4K dished piston motors, K, 2K,7K etc so I can see what push rods I can find if my A12 rods done fit. As felix you might be right A12 rods might not fit but fingers crossed. Cheers Cameron

Hi, I decided to go with a 2mm shim (well it came down to 1.99mm shim when I made it) So I will see how this goes I will be hooking up a oil pressure gauge to the car so ill post results when there in. Cameron

oh also for got to add I made a 1.99mm thick shim for my oil pump so I will see how that goes now ;) thumbs up Cameron

Hi, Depending on the 5K I have felix 4K push rods will fit. But for solid lifters xany, madroller etc have all used a solid lifter life 3F or chev ones which are pretty much the same and put in A12 rods. So these should fit but I can play with the long or short rocker posts and a few different push rods I have here. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Interesting fact kangaroosa that you got 16 for $75 from crow cams yet there ippy dealer wants $17.95 each for the same lifter..lol But I got mine at cheapest price i could find here not getting them posted from a factory etc so I'm happy and I got price lowered so all is good. But Felix I never got measurement of oil hole I can tell you where the inside of the lifter tapers to hold the push rod the oil hole is just above it and is a SHIT load bigger than a5K hyrdo lifter hole. That is why I asked about upping oil pressure here: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=13223 As Boosted 5K who is a walking encyclopedia on K motors who owns 7K's blown 5K's all up right motors TRD gear like tosco adjustable factory K motor cam gear etc so he knows his shit. He also races them. Said in a post at another forum once he put solids in a 5K and the oil galleries then didn't like the oil being there and it was like an open tap let oil run free and he lost a lot of oil pressure. So it is said to block the hole for oil into the 5K lifter area so you don't lose oil pressure. But blown 5K said block them or up oil pressure bypass spring. I'm going spring way just in case as I don't wanna get a 5K that hates solids and loses oil pressure and i don't want to pull the motor out a day later to fix the oil pressure situation. So a note of warning on a 5K there will prob be a oil pressure drop of a bit to a lot when doing this swap so be careful. Also Felix I have 8 A12 motor push rods int eh post they will fit in like a glove but i think i have a set of 4K-E push rods that came with a 4K-e head so ill get them out tomorrow and see if they fit. Cheers Cameron

Some coronas from what I know used the T series gear box and they fit into a KEXX car and then you can use a T motor like a 3TG or something but I have never heard of corona motor bolt in but hey go to a wrecker and see if there measurements would allow it or engine mounts similar etc.. Cameron

Hi, While I'm fixing my 5K I had a thought today while the sump is off I will shim the oil pump spring to get more oil pressure. So I was wondering what is the best size shim to use as I don't want to much as above 90 PSI it will strip the soft metal off the bearings (I forget the metals name right now) and I don't wanna add just 5PSI as that is well better but worthless at the same time. So has anyone shimmed an oil pump and measured the oil pressure? I would like exact pressure numbers to shim size so I can see what would be best. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Ok I got lifters today. I looked at all the prices of lifters went ot 4 car shops adn decided 3F original lifters wee the best to get :) So below is a picture of the find: The cost of these currently the best I could find was $13.95 per lifter :cool: And being a student I didn't want to pay this much..lol But still $13.95 is better than what Toyota quoted me for lifters they wanted $40 each. So At this shop that was the cheapest (walkers A1 in ippy) I said if I buy 8 on the spot here now can you do them for $11 each. I though mm he might not drop it that far but worth a shot. So the guy went and played on the computer for a bit and then came back and said he can't do them for $11 but can do them for $11.12 SO I said SOLD and bought 8 of them. So pretty happy with the find as I did get them cheaper. As other prices for lifters were $17.95 each for holden solid lifters (this was the crow cams price as repco is a crow cam dealer) and , $20 for chev lifters even though there the same thing go figure so best bet is go to walkers A1 and get original 3F lifters it is the cheapest way out in the 5K lifter issue. And there original Japan made parts to :D So the price of lifters has gone up I can tell everyone that now. Also Super cheap auto can't get in any 3F lifters anymore and don't even have them on the computer system AND repco didn't have any either. So by the looks 3F lifters will also become hard to find soon also. Now to answer Matt's question about missing lifter bottoms ok might of miss lead people there the bottom of my lifters are now dished..lol And yes there stainless steel but there was no damage to the cam shaft so goes to show a hardened nitride cam shaft is strong :dance: But below is a picture of a 5K hydro on the left and a 3F new one on the right: Only about 3 are this bad the rest are better but have pitting and well d4ead anyway. As if these were still good I would of made dirty lifters and turned these hydraulic lifters into solid lifters :dance: Also the measurements for my lifters are: 5K hydro: 51.79mm long ( 2.03898 inches) 21.41mm wide (0.84291 inches) 3F/factory 5K solids: 46.02mm long ( 1.81181 inches) 21.38mm wide ( 0.84173 inches) Also the length of a solid lifter is shorter and the push rod drops into a solid lifter also so a hydraulic cam doesn't have the same amount of lift ramp on it as it doesn't need it so running a hydro cam on solids etc (it can be done I have done it before) you will lose lift. Thats just a side note but..lol Cheers Cameron

Hi, OK the problem I have is the stainless steel lfters I have in my 5K most of them are stuffed as well the bottom of them is missing..lol I will get a pic tomorrow as it is late now. But it looks like I will be going to super cheap tomorrow to price and order some AT992 GM Chev and Holden lifters off them. As then the 5K will be running as I have 8 A12 datto push rods in the post now so 5K will be running and ready for the sprinter. Also I have heard on places when changing from hydro to solid lifters the oil passages need to be blocked a bit on the lifter section as not blocking them can cause a large drop in oil pressure. Can anyone confirm this on a 5K? And a solid lifter cam has a MUST more aggressive ramp on a cam than hydro's. Also solid cams if made properly have a small 10 though or less ramp on the back called a silencing ramp to take up the valve tappet clearance momentarily to make it quieter. This will pump up a hydro lifter and cause them to open the valve when it should be shut. Also I have read that Toyota 5K hydro lifters are designed, rate to work to 6500 RPM as there in a van motor not meant ot be revving hard. So 7 grand on a stock 5K hydro lifter setup it will do it i got toe 7000 RPM as well before they died. But what happens they slowly pump up and instead of the valve sealing at those RPM's the valve might be open say 10 thou letting gasses out or in at the wrong time so it will do it but you lose power efficiency so why bother. So I want solid so i can rev to say 8 grnad and have my valves actually shut. Cheers Cameron

Hi, What holden motor are the solids from? 202 blue red etc. Also chev lifters sound good. But are heavier ill do the cheapest option but less mass to move means a lot less stress load etc list goes on. Ill add to this post after I eat dinner..lol Cheers Cameron

Hi, I am searching around now for 3F lifters to place into my 5K at home. I went to super cheap they had a quick look in the parts cataloge and couldn't find them. So I am wondering does anyone know a place I can get 3F motor lifters cheap? Also what are they worth new? Or is it cheaper to get used ones and reface them? Cheers Cameron

As stated above pends who's working and what mood there in. But hint make it look stock as, say its just a replacement engine so you need number swap they go ok and walk out and take number and thats it so act calm do that your set. If it looks modded and stuff they will get suspicious and prob want a mod plate. Cameron