camerondownunder88

UPDATES: 69sprinter I know your car. I found that thread once before. You have some work ahead of you but it will be worth it these are great cars. Also will you sell your center console?lol I so want that. Where did you pick it up from? Firstly I have now fitted a new window washer system :cool: I got an old KE2X bottle for the washers. The seal on the bottom was dead so I hunted a seal down that fitted and sealed the pump into the bottle and now it is good as new. I can't find aKE1X bottle and the KE2X still does the job so I fitted it. The new pump I got is just a universal one from super cheap. Its part number is CL404M-12-109740. It is the one for a hilux and corona but also fits the KE2X bottle but they don't list that on the box. For the water lines I recycled some more and sourced my mates KE70 he is wrecking and got the T pieces and rubber lines for free. I soaked them in pure chlorine for about 5min. After that they were clean no yellow tinge from age at all :lol:. When I went to install the new rubber lines to the nozzles I found minor surface rust on the panel that the squirter's stick through on the lip of it so I removed it stripped off rust and painted it and the back wall of the engine bay I touched it up while I was there. A pic is below of the panel with rust. I have just painted the flange section gloss black and was yet to fix the rust in the center when this photo was taken. I also found the rubber strip glued there to seal the heater box inlet was like new still so it stayed. Also below is a pic of the fire wall touch up. And the previous owner painted over the plate on the fire wall with the cars number etc on it. So I also painted over it again. But this was to re coat the bolts. I will be removing that and stripping it to raw metal again so you can read it etc. Next thing I have been doing is rebuilding the brakes for the car. I have got a set of girlock AE71/KE70 calipers and discs and will be using these. So I sand blasted the calipers being careful not to damage the bore for the piston by taping it off etc then painted them yellow. As red is everywhere and car is orange so yellow is similar. I also put a new kit through them that included new dust covers and piston rings so now there like new. I then went and got some new high tensile bolts that lock the slides to the caliper as you are meant to use new ones everytime the brakes come off so a few $$ for some piece of mind I renewed them. So All that is left to do is buy new pads, get some KE30 backign plates, And new disc rotors I have decided ill use new rotors and not secondhand items, and install the brakes and bleed them. Pics below: Calipers all painted. Slides before painting. Top nick no marks on them I also picked up a 1968 magazine that has an article in it about the AMI SL corolla. Full write up and test. In the day the SL sedan did 55mph in second gear. So with my 5K I plan to beat that..lol Will hopefully get scans of article soon. Cheers Cameron

HI, No run aways that is good. As I have a twin carby big port mani on a 5K small port now not running yet so it just occurred to me AHAHA it might stuff up. But I will see how it goes I guess. Cheers Cameron

I figured it would make turbulent air. But this can't be to bad right mix the fuel better? As I was more thinking the space of exposed cylinder head where the big port manifold would not meet up properly when bolted up fuel could pool there and when you jump off the accelerator it would get sucked in and your motor would run away for a second? Does this happen? Cheers Cameron

Hi, Out of interest what would happen if you ran a big port manifold on a small port head? Cameron

What Felix said a welsh plug on the back. Off top of my head I think it is 45mm Diameter. Also over rated. If you look out for them they are easy to get and the original big ports the port is to big for the valve so if you have one you can/should run the better later KE70/55/late30 head valves they are a bit bigger and later valve seals then it will be better. As I belive Toyota went to smaller ports to increase torque of the motor in the KE30 as it got heavier and needed it. So higher velocity air flow from smaller ports will give more torque. So the best head to get is a 3K-H one they are stock high compression and some were mild ports. Not the normal small nor where they large like a small port but they have a better matched port to valve size and 3K-H was shaved more factory to bump up compression. But a big port if you have it can still be a fast way to get more air into the K motor for mods eg SC or turbo. Cameron

Just found thread so here goes: OVER PRICED K MOTOR SHIT........I mean I have been given working T25 turbos clean as ball bearings and more for free then some one comes along with K motor shit. Ok everything is worth something but honestly some prices are more than that part from Toyota nearly and hey I think it is stupid as most guys are out to make a buck I feel. Stupid liability legal crap. I mean it is everywhere and OVER BOARD. I can't take my jet kart any where.......No one wants to know about it. The one place that said maybe told me I have the wrong chassis. They can only run J or S chassis on the track so if I put my WAY over powered to fast gas turbine engine onto a smaller frame with less strength, 3 less brakes (yes mine is 4 wheel disc brakes :D ) I could race now that is a bit stupid. I have had my kart jump off the ground from a minor wet start from the instant power it develops when it starts to self sustain so if anything I need a bigger frame. I just wish some one would say hey go for it you blow p don't come crying and I tell you now I wont I just need about 500m flat road to wind it up a tad. As I believe public roads aren't safe enough to do my karting on so I wont use them. And finally kids who think that everything should be spoon fed to them. I work with one we sat an exam the other week on aircraft pressurization. An answer to a question was a "blade seal". He wrote blade sealant cause he read the answer wrong off a guy next to him so cheating as well. After he failed an easy as exam he complained wanted a resit. That is just a minor break down he had. I think if he can't do it try harder don't complain and get it spoon fed. The info is there in the books etc just read it FFS....

Mate $10 is good. I was quoted $380 for 4-2-1 2 inch extractors for a KE30 so $180 snap them up. Cameron

I got 2 GT25 turbos given ot me and the one in front of me has a plate on it reading: BL 0180j 14411 - 69f09 466541 - 7001 The other one is in the shed so can't be bothered going to get it right now for numbers if your interested. Also trev that means if ur turbo is off a SR20 then my waste gates I have in the shed should fit that you were interested in that time. Cheers Cameron

HAHAHA don't worry. I got some 1mm thick stainless cut out today I was going to try it with if worse comes to worse. As I am worried with this method the intake mani wont seal properly if it is slightly offset due to bolt heads and I refuse to grind the intake manifold to make it work. But if stainless steel fails me I have some metal sheet that is the same as what some gas turbines hot end turbines are made from in aircraft :P here that is looking for a use so I will try that at last resort. Cheers Cameron

How did the CWA AGM go tonight fellas? I couldnt make it had to earn the $$...:)

Hi, Don't KE1X cars run the same diff as a KE2X. Would this be possible in a KE1X car? Cameron

Hi, Manifold is an original item not a stuffed after market part as it has the Toyota part number cast into it and it has the TEQ/old Toyota logo also cast into it. Cameron

Hi, Just yesterday I got a full fairly new exhaust system for my KE15. All the system fits APART from the exhaust mani that bolts to the head. After stripping it back today to bare metal and painting it I noticed the heat exchanger box on the KE10 mani has the 2 bolts towards the cylinder head and the single bolt towards the wheel side of the car. And this manifold is off AE70's KE10 so it is an original manifold. So did some early KE1X manifolds have the heat exchanger box bolt pattern backwards? As Most normal corolla K exhaust manifolds have the single bolt on the cyclinder head side and the 2 other bolts on the wheel side. So in effect the bolt pattern is switched backwards different to other corolla manifolds. This presents a problem to me as my original water cooled twin carby big port manifold off the car has a single bolt for the heat exchanger on the engine side. So it doest fit this KE1X manifold. As the big port intake mani is like normal corolla bolt patterns. BUT it has the smaller KE1X heat exchanger area this prevents me from using any later manifold as the exchanger is to big. So I am curious as to know did the big port manifold have its own unique heat exchanger box pattern? And does anyone have one that will fit (eg single bolt on engine side and the smaller heat exchanger) so I can get my car going finally? Cheers Cameron Also Just a few pictures below so you can all see what I mean. Above you can see the 2 bolts closest to the cylinder head side on the exhaust mani Above is the inlet manifold showing the 2 bolts are on the wheel side not closest to the engine. And above again this shows the inlet manifold has the single bolt closest to the engine side and also in all the above photos you can kind of see how the heat exchanger triangle is smaller.

Hi, I am doing this conversion now. So I know you need to go to KE20 stub axles and drill and tap them. But if you have front disc brakes on the KE1X of yours you could drill and tap those stub axles. BUT i wouldn't as there rare and I left mine complete as if you want to restore the car back to 100% original you can. As for rims I know for a fact that yes you need 13 inch rims to clear the calipers. Also if your worried about the speedo being out if you get the right size tire profile it wont change. I have that written down some where so Ill have to find it again for you. Cheers Cameron P.S. Look in my KE15 sprinter thread I think there is more info on this swap there.

I was looking at that and it looks spot on to a 3K-r twin cam setup trumpets etc. I wonder where he got the motor from? As do they still make 3K-R heads? Cameron

Hi, Yes if the mani you have is like mine then it is a small port 3K-B mani out of a late KE25 or KE35. So you also get the brake booster hose fitting on runner 4. Mine has had the water inlet to the mani ground off. As most extractors hit this on the twin carby mani. It is usually another small hole below runner 4. can't miss it. But if you have this on the mani still the water in let DON'T GRIND IT OFF....these manis are rare as rocking horse poo now so not ruin it. You can use 3k carbies yes. Go KE30 or KE20 ones little to no pollution gear then. As for the outlet at runner 1 that is the water outlet back to the radiator. If you don't run water to the mani then this is no issue and doesn't need to be blocked off as no water will flow to it. Also for air filters I have some ice chrome ram flows that I think are made to fit clamp to the top of an asian and all. I think there is a pic in my sprinter thread some where. Cheers Cameron

Hi, twin setups use different jets in the carby and slightly different linkages so finding these might be hard. But you can use stock Asians off single carby cars also with mods. As for the stock air breather hard to find. I had to buy 2 setups to get an air filter as it is the rare money maker part you could say. Also there are 2 types of twin carby air filter pollution control pipes weld to it and a non pollution control model. Also look in my sprinter thread here: http://www.irokin.com/rollaclub.com/board/...showtopic=12854 I have pictures in there of twin setups and more detailed pictures are hiding in another RC thread I started. But well have to wait for the site to recover to use the search feature. Cheers Cameron

UPDATES: Not much has been happening with the car. But I have now got my hands on 2 rebuild kits for KE7X calipers. So now when I get spare time I can finish rebuilding my calipers. Cheers Cameron

Hi, The 5K manual number is: RM557E....this is just the engine repair manual so this will have what you need. Also I couldn't find a 5K manual my self. But I got the 7K manual someone scanned and put on rollaclub off here. As in the first page of the 7K manual it says the part number for the 5K AND 7K repair manual. Which is the part number I gave you then. So I figured the 5K torque settings must be the same/similar as 7K ones so I just use 7K torque figures on my 5K. Cheers Cameron P.S. Some torque figures between K to 7K are the same so if in doubt use a 4K or 3K manual for torque settings.

Hi, They should fit. I also found AE86 mags look similar to these but ARE different eg center caps and so on. I feel these may fit if you get mags off an AE86 with out hitting your brakes as I feel the ae86 ones are slightly bigger when I had mine on my KE55S coupe. Cheers Cameron

Raven I have the factory manual for KE1X cars with similar hinge and how to fix it. All you do is fit new bushings and pin. Ill scan the page later tonight for you so you can have a read. Cameron

Old Toyota logo I also believe. As all there old manuals usually have that logo as well and old parts it is cast into it. Cameron

Hi, Yes Des the KE1X aircon pump mounts on the same spot same mount even as all other corolla aircons I have seen. And all 3 KE30 I have seen and helped strip the aircon out of had a mechanical fuel pump usually with just a different fuel line on the pump, so Taz a mech pump will fit a K motor with aircon. But it seems KE1X they just dropped the pump put a plate on the block the ran an electric pump. But the bright side is at least I know how to run my wiring loom if I go for an electric fuel pump so I can say it was factory kind of :y:..lol Cheers Cameron

Hi, As the title says I found out last night reading my KE1X aircon manual. If the KE1X car was fitted with factory aircon they also installed a factory electric fuel pump in the boot. So for some reason on the KE1X with aircon they ditched the diaphragm pump and used an electric one in the boot. Below is 2 scans of the manual showing the fuel pump exploded view and the number and part list page showing how the number matches up from the exploded view to fuel pump. Also notice above on the fuel pump exploded view page the image outline of the motor showing how the fuel line goes to a bracket and on that there is a regulator mounted and then it goes to the carby. So there you go just another useless K corolla fact. Cheers Cameron

UPDATE: About a week back now I bought a KE1X aircon manual :P And it arrived :D Picture below: It is the 4th book in the factory manual set. The KE1X used in it was a 1969 KE10 2 door sedan. So same year as my sprinter so all the parts etc match up. Now jsut to find a KE1X aircon system..lol Cheers Cameron