camerondownunder88

AHAH fook nasty. MMM will you attempt to put your spare clutch fork in the gear box to get it on the road? Also the starter should crank the car safely. So remove all the spark plugs and put it in first and move the car on the starter. I have done this worked fine no damage done. Cameron

Trev, Got a mount coming in the post and Corolla kid is picking me up one for free up north for me so ill get 2 in case one is stuffed ish but yep got mounts coming so hopefully the extractors will slide in like a glove when fitting them up. Cameron

Hi, Ok contacted the guy selling this car again. He will consider stripping it after he has tried selling it a few times as he jsut got it going nice so wants it gone not stripped. He told me also $500 I can have it now so off ebay his BIN price is $500 so if say we all want parts off car eg. i want turbo intake and exhaust etc, phattKE30 wants the diff, and I'm sure Jip wants the 5 speed ;) Well we can get cash back on this car no hassles. So $500 it can be yours. But I can't cough up $500 as I will be going away for a break in a weeks time. So if some one else can spare cash and has room if you talk to him and get car for $500 as Taz said money back willl be easy so can anyone grab this car? Cheers Cameron

UPDATES: Well tonight I got it in me to get the 5K cranking over. So I cleaned up all the engine electrical like removing corrosion from wires, replacing some motor to chassis earth wires with bigger non damaged ones (later model KE ones etc), charging battery, installed new battery terminals, made mew starter to battery cable, made new altornaot to battery cable, cleaned up alt regulator loom with new conduit tape and degreesed the wires and removed corrosion and all. Some pictures below: Above is the new lead from battery to the starter. Well all the electrical went good so I filled the 5K with oil and it cranked over no hassle with spark plug out of course so it build oil pressure with no load ;) So I have it cranking now so next step is to fit intake and exhaust after I get the KE30 mount for the manifold side so I can lift the motor more vertical in the 15 so the extractors I have hopefully fit in. Fingers crossed. Cheers Cameron

OK guys. I am interested in the exhaust manifold and intake manifold off this car. Rest throw it out as far as I'm concerned. So I contacted the guy. He said wont split parts YET..so if now one buys it and I stay in contact he might wreck the car and we can then go nuts so ill see what happens. Cameron

Trev, You can get black anodizing done AND you can get it done so there is no shine to it so you get matt black anodizing. But anodizing can cost a bucket load but you can do it your self at home if your keen. Nice glass fish tank a few car batteries etc you'll be able to do it ;) Cameron

Matt, GO FOR IT ;) I say a VIP hatch be different and with your motor also be NUTS...lol Also you do all your own fiber glass work? Cheers Cameron

PPFFF study is over rated...PUB I like that idea. So Jason prep car go to pub and then you'll pass as study is overrated..as I'm sitting here now ON RC doing bugger all instead of doing gas turbine thermodynamics ;) Cam

UPDATES: Well on the long weekend I got some work done I got a rebuilt 5K installed into the car :wink: and a radiator :no2: Wasn't as straight forwards the swap as planned :( But never is. After getting the original 3K out I found it had an early gear box so less splines :( THEN the fly wheel is different on older K motors :( THEN the clutch was different THEN the flex plate on the rear of the motor was different to suit the old gear box :( But Not all bad. Found out the old flex plate will bolt onto a 5K :y: One hole didn't line up but no loss soldier on. Then I simply found I could use the K-B flywheel on the 5k. Massive relief as the original K-B motors had lighter fly wheels :) So faster revs :) Then simply bolted the clutch to it. Was the original pressure plate and a new fiber disk so all heavy duty and original SL sprinters had more clutch clamp pressure so also has a stronger clutch. So win all around. Poped a new spigot bearing in to for good measure. But below is a picture of a stock 3K and 5K notice at the back of the motor on the right hand side there is a hole missing on the 5K this is a hole that I couldn't place a bolt. As early K motors have 2 bolts holding on the flex plate while 5k have one. 3K: 5K: Also note bottom left of the 3K block has a casting buldge and 5 K is a nice smooth taper bend down to the bolt hole on the lower left. Cheers Cameron

Hi, I wrote the first article you linked to and put the 80amp one onto my KE30. I had a Bosch one on there so my wires were all ready there. But did you up grade your ma feed from the alt and battery to the starter when you were in there? I put better thicker cable in and find starts easier as it handles more current so just an idea. But with the alt tension arm you will need the long one. Also with your charge light turn your key to on in the ignition and with out starting the motor the oil light and charge light should be on. If the charge light isn't on there is a fault some where. As don't think oh light not on so its got plenty of power. As my 80amp alt now light NEVER comes on. Yet with no motor going and key in the on position it glows so I now the light works. Also I got brighter head lights when I put my new alt one so :wink: Cheers Cameron

STOP.... Just checked the manual I have for early K motor heads..... And the o-ring seal goes onto the TOP TOP grove in the valve stem. So put it on top of the valve retainer clips that fall out when you remove the spring.

Si one word...........MSN..lol free to get then u can ask me anything pretty much 24/7..lol As you have my msn address. Cameron

Taz just read my PM's...lol remove spring rip off seal. Also Felix I have new type of valve guides in the K big port head but when it gets the head rebuilt I will be removing them and installing new guides as they look a bit worn.

mmmm scratches chin... I was told by a reputable source the head was made/modded to take newer valves as it was off an old style motor with smaller valves. Unless it was off a 2K or something they all had smaller valves But yes, no water gallery so your right there must be a single carby one. Cheers Cameron

So if you can confirm Felix below is the valve stem on the left an old style and on the right a new style? Or is the one on the left a new style just minus the rubber top and spring? As the one on the left is more of a straight shaft with a rounded in part to say it the best section near the top of the stem while the other right one is a straight shaft with a larger diameter top section and no rounded in section. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Just out sourcing more info on K motor cyclinder head valve seals. Now we all know the 4K and better valve seals seal a whole world better than K motor seals. So What I am just after is a picture of some 3K old style seals then some newer 4K seals? Or just info on how to install newer style seals into an older head? Cheers Cameron

AS IF ^^^^^ Clearly the cheer leaders will take podium position for me... :P

UPDATES: Just more updates to keep the KE1X fans happy. Well today after studying all day I tripped to the north side of Brisbane to get parts for the car :P These parts include: KE55 disc brakes and calipers. A worked 3K-B head (working includes deshrouded spark plugs, mild clean up of ports, 70 thou shave, new valve stem seals like (KE70 ones to seal better, Weld up welsh plug, and later K motors got larger valves and they have been installed into this head so it also has bigger valves :D so it is VERY neat.) Also for this head I must thank the person who gave it to me for the random act of kindness THANKS...oh for now he will remain secret.... So pics below of the days haul: The brakes above have been machined to make a new surface so there good as just been sitting so that rust will go fast on first stop :bash: The head...... So this weekend being along weekend I should be able to get the 5K in the car with a KE30 engine mount to make the 5K stand more upright in the 15 so I get better extractor clearance (been told it can be an issue and later K motor mounts stand engines up more) and might have it running if the extractors fit on so fingers crossed. And installing the KE20 radiator and installing a thermo fan. But the plans for the 3K-B head are for a crack test clean up new valves and seals then slightly port the exhaust more then bolt it on to the 5K in the future with a SC14 as I have a full SC14 to K motor setup from SU to mounts so since the 3K-B head will decompress the 5K it will receive a blower in so then the KE15 will have a bit more booggie so it isn't wasted But again bold on no cutting etc so keeping it return able to original. Cheers Cameron

JC807 KE15 disc's are the same as KE20 from what I can see comparing my KE15 brakes to a KE20 brakes. Also KE55 brakes wont fit on a 12 inch rim you will need 13 inch rims des. Cheers Cameron

Si, The van I saw with a 5K in it had a W50 box in it so if it is the right box your not taking a step back but then you are saving time as your box would just bolt up then no fiddling about. As from the EPC I can see the van can come with a few motors I think one was the 18R or something. The van has the same gearbox but across all models so all that changes in the bell housing and it is on a W50 box so just try and get pics of a few and see how you go. Cheers Cameron

Hi, The idea I had of cold chisel was JUST an idea I had in my head as I wouldn't want to do it as knowing me Id damage the crank and I just sold my spare 4K crank..lol Or id kill the bearings n the block from the thrust loading it would receive. So I think Felix's way will just be easier as I have a pencil die grinder so it will get in there easily with the diamond bit in it and do the job. Cheers Cameron

I think cutting it could be the best way to do it BUT the outer race is a VERY hard metal as I knwo the balls in this type of bearing are surface hardened steel balls so the outer race would be friggin hard so cutting it would blunt a lot of blades and id opt for a propper cutting compound rather than CRC. But I also did use copious amounts of WD40 on it the other weekend and tried pulling it out and nothing happened. As a interference fit should be made to 0.001 thou of an inch difference between parts so yeah no luck there. But Cutting also imposes another problem, The shape of the recess behind the bearing doesn't leave much room for a blade as the design of the lip the bearing sits on in the crank is right behind it then the hole tapers down to a point. But what does everyone think about getting a cold chisel and trying to cut a slot in it carefully? The main though I get is the axial thrust loads placed on the big end crank bearing could this do any damage to it? Cheers Cameron

Hi, Slapper just a note, I have the original Toyota factory yellow books for my KE1X and it calls this bearing the "Input shaft front bearing" But you are right I have heard most people call this a spigot bearing. But I was told tonight Repco In Ipswich have 4K ones on the shelf so I will pop down there on Saturday to see what I can get as a 5K uses a 4K crank so will fit. But heres the hard part. The previous owner of this 5K had it rebuilt then I bought it. Obviously he tried to remove the spigot bearing and did this: He left eh outer race of the bearing in there. I also would say he tried removing it but couldn't as the motor I got it in a KE55 he was fixing up to drive around so it was in the car with no bearing to. Which leads me to think he couldn't move it so in went the motor. So The other day after noticing this the 5K install halted into the KE15. So who has an idea on how to remove this? As the Toyota yellow book has nothing on this and says the location for the bearing in the crank has to be interference fit, no scores or scratches where it sits. So makes removing an issue. I was thinking if I could cut a small section out then the bearing race could compress together then slid out easily. Then it hit me hard as metal so prob wont cut easily. So does anyone have an idea on how to remove this bearing? Cheers Cameron

Id slap you Des if the KE10 got a rotor. Stick with a K motor but I support your 5K conversion :bash:

Hi, Si just a though. Get the Toyota EPC and have a look at the part number of the shaft on the W50 box that came in the van with the 5K and 7K and see what a shaft is worth. Also at wreckers they sell W50 boxes out of those vans for like $150 to $200ish so could you just get one put a floor shifter in it not column shift and presto bolt onto a K motor no bell housing stuffing around? As the box you have has 2 bolts up the top that are closer together. On the nice clean bell housing pic you have it doesn't have these 2 holes or by the looks enough metal to accommodate the raised part of that gear box so could dirt get in? As Id say a wrecker take a whole box off a 5K and much easier swap. Then you can grab its clutch plate and see if a shop near you has a similar one..lol Cheers Cameron