camerondownunder88

Jason u need a girl friend...LOL How do you find that type of web page..lol Nah ok that art mmm what would picaso say??? Doesn't do it for me can't say id travel to Paris to see that int eh louve or how ever you spell it..lol Cameron

Hi, I am in process of putting a new cam in my 5K now as we speak just called it quits for the night. I will post the cam sheet I got with my cam that I had make all its power between 2000RPM and 5000RPM as it is my daily street driver. I have a few cam grinds on my bench here that will make a 3K or any K motor go hard and yes upwards of 10,000RPM cams so ill post them here soon. Cameron

Hi, The pistons ill have to double check to see if i can get dish capacity of 4agze ones BUT on the pistons shape 4agze ones have a small dish smaller thana 5K 3mm one but it is a dish for the 4 valves to fit in pic at end of my post so these will prob up CR more with less shaving BUT $150 for 3mm dish 5K pistons good price so if your not running boost get them a bit less stuffing around and in the mean time if your interested just play with 4agze ones and see if you want them one day as they will rev VERY hard when you blue print the bottom end and use them so recommended even if you don't run boost but want to rev hard. But if you run 3mm dish 3K-B head you will still need to shave the head/block to up CR as I believe you can shave a stock 5K up to 5mm before it is to high and pings on fuel so you can take a fair chunk off. As they have combustion in piston bore standard so a 3K head it can happen there so the extra length a 5K bore had can be taken out. Cheers Cameron

Hi, 4agze I believe have a different stroke YES. But your using there pistons so same bore so no problem but the 100Kw 4age has the right length rods and standard handle power and rev hard so no problems there mate. Also gudgeon pin in 5K i believe is 18mm 4agze pistons 20mm so for easier build use 4age rods as standard ones will need tinkering to get them to meet up. Also 4agze pistons gudgeon pin is closer to the top of the piston so there you could say less top heavy so will rev harder and not as much free weight slapping around in the bore the weight is lower and can move better so Id use Toyota gear so 4agze pistons 4age 100KW version rods EASY..lol Cameron

Hi, Well you can use a 3K-B head and shave it to get compression up or also shave the block Now pistons grab your self a set of 4agze pistons and 100Kw 4age con rods. These will fit in I think 4agze pistons like half a mm bigger so you will need a slight bore. The con rods are 3mm narrower than a 5K rod BUT you can weld them thicker mill em down if your worried, but that is work. But from a tested and proven motor if not weld the oil pressure holds the rod still and well no damage after revving mm HARD as it was a rally KE rolla so for your use Id just install the rods no welding. That will give u good rod and piston setup and shave block head and that will up CR and presto a pretty mean 5k. Cheers Cameron

April fools cruise so does that mean it is really happening??lol MM also Benfer rd that is named after my family :D Also.... Coochiemudlo Island is well nothing there but mud toilets and a golf course so not that great to see but hey the park at the ferry there is pretty good so should be fun. I will see how I got with car issues and poo and well got a few rust pimples out of the hardtop tonight so a bit more work and I might be able to get day rego on it for some fun :yes: First I will have to install a manual but as it is auto and has a manual pedal box in it..lol DOT might question this. So ill see if I can get there in the 2dr or 4dr or if I can even come but get times and a map up and WOOT should be there. Cheers Cameron

Is that my old lift pump ur now again using..lol Or you end up getting a different one? Cam

Hi, The head on pretty much all K motors is the same apart from 7K and there are different styles between dished and non dished piston heads and XK-E head :D The normal 3K head is a style for flat pistons so combustion is in the head. But From what I know all those heads it doesn't really matter on bore size as such as those heads on a for example a flat top piston 5K with a 5K gasket for the bore size as there is just a small flat section of head all the way around the CC now. And a standard K head has the D shape bowel so it has a section filled up anyway so no harm done. But for performance maybe this lip should be removed to say Fit the bore better. But on a Dished piston 5K there heads were flat as combustion happens in the piston so when the head is on this motor and it has the combustion area in the head compression drops so this lip that will be there is mmm better as it could/might provide better air turbulence and more metal to take up space and lift performance so I would pretty much never worry about it here. My explanations a bit crap but you might understand this is how I see it. ANd hey just try It is amazing what a K motor can take..lol I know :yes: Cheers Cameron

HAHAHA Justin u have all ready seen that car in flesh adn more when u cut the rust out..lol But no Ill be glad when it is at trevs I might be able to drive it then..lol Cameron

Pends if it is a dish piston 5K or not. If it is dished will drop CR if it is a flat top 5K should be same. But hey put it on and a turbo/SC and hey perfect setup for boost..... Cameron

MMM good parts there well here it running soon des good work. Ah so many memories that crane I mean rollaclub bitch crane...lol Cameron

Hi, I'm up for one. I drive 110Km round trip to work everyday so less driving for me better so like mm dinner sounds good or is the drive in theater still open in Brisvegus? Also pending how far away it is I might get one day rego on the hard top KE55 I now have ;) Just to stretch its legs..lol Cheers Cameron

Sitting in traffic in Brisveggas a few days ago on the KE30 stock radio I found a mmm new music Heavy metal playing station on AM yes AM. Forget frequency but not many on AM anymore so ull find it pretty fast. As for radio CD FTW....As FM radio stuffed in my CD player so MP3 cd and off we go..lol Cheers Cameron

Opps shit my bad there yes your right chassis is less than I counted but total all my motors run that much..lol Cameron

Hi, When I had my 3K in car I got 475,000Km on it ORIGINAL and it still ran..lol Next went in the 4K-C had 200,000Km on it I clocked on 7,000 more till I removed it. Now I run a 5K so after its fresh rebuild I run 1,000 Km on it so low still..lol So total my chassis has on it is 683,000Km on it.. And I'm aiming for the 1million mark and my body has little to no rust been resprayed in parts no dents adn looks like new :P Cheers Cameron

Hi, Doug I know I can use 4K gear on 5K with hdro lifters and use the adjusters in the rockets to get my preset load BUT I then need ball to cup push rods not ball to ball and 4K and 3K rods aren't the right length I'm told so it will throw the rocker ration out so you need A12 rods. But I don't have any and mates engine rebuilding shop doesnt have any so at a loss there. But still wanting to hear you way as it might work or be different so open to suggestions? Cheers Cameron

Ok now for my input. When the 5K was rebuilt the cam was reground for the lifters and a new sprocket used and the posts of the rocker gear were machined and adjusted accordingly. So Doug yes I can see your problem my hydros are now under more pre load then before as they were setup to suit the reground cam. After installing the 4K cam I didn't have time to reset the hydros (well never done it before so no time to research and do) So not they will be under extra load BUT now I have a bigger base circle so at least my lifter will still have pre load on it as I know if a hydro lifter gets no pre load the valve train will be noisy when the engine is running and all of the hydraulic force produced by the lifter will be exerted against the lifters retaining lock, and this could cause the lock to fail. But if it is to high I know the opposite occurs and the push rod descends too far (I think more than 0.060 if I'm right?), then you have excessive lifter pre load. So hydraulic lifter can pump up whatever pre load you put into it, therefore with excessive pre load, as the engine RPM and oil pressure increases, the hydraulic mechanism will pump-up the push rod seat. This will cause the valve to be open longer and lift higher. This will decrease the cylinder pressure, lowering the performance of the engine and also cause my 5K to back fire. So this is why I find after I hit high RPM my motor loses a slight bit of performance. All I believe will happen is the valve seats will then slowly burn out but how long it will take is unknown. But JDM 5K motors which mine is received stainless steel nitride valves seats unlike the shit seats KE70's got here so valve seats shouldn't be a problem for me at this stage. Also 8 cams were released for the 5K motor from toyota. 6 of these cross reference to solid lifter cams in other K motors 2 don't that is a directly taken from the Toyota EPC so can't be wrong. So there is a good chance I have a good cam in car. Also solid lifter cams have a silencing ramp on the back of the cam so with hydro lifters there this ramp causes the lifter to pump up and not run right so that is it. But got my other spare cam shaft here out today all still good so sending it to the cam shop tomorrow to get a down low economy grind on it so it is good in traffic then ill remove it at end of the year to install the SC14. :P So this cam in the car now is an emergency cam and possible correct for it. As at high revs it is hard to hear but after 5000RPM the 5K is either valve bouncing due to high peak on a solid cam or it is the lifters so either way don't rev it hard it works :hmm: Cheers Cameron

Hi, Ok just before I type my reply to the latest postings I will just post pics of my dead cam shaft (semi dead) as I can save it adn reuse it later. Above is the side of cam. Front of pulley, Also this pulley was custom made to suit this cam as the timing mark is a tooth forwards to the original K motor pulley and it has been machined out of solid stock and not cast like a stock unit. Here is the cam notice pin missing..lol It has taken the load of the cam due to the main bolt coming lose and it took the full cam load. The chip of metal also jammed in the thrust plate so I had to replace that also as it was eaten out and in a bad way. Back of the wheel. As you can see it has stretched the hole and deformed it so it is not serviceable in this spot which is a pity it was a nice cam sprocket :P But I have thought drill a new pin hole 180 degrees around the wheel and on this cam shaft and it should be usable just u install differently to how it would normally be done eg timing mark at bottom not top of the wheel when installing. As the cam is still good no wear and the cam face that oil sits between on the thrust plate is still good as a straight edge adn a feeler gauge showed me so I might try this cam in my 4K yet. Cheers Cameron

One more note. Found this on a web page talks abotu ramps. This is as far as I could find the only grind difference between solids to hydros the ramp so this explains about lash ramp a bit etc as solids need a lash ramp hydros don't as there always pushing from the oil pressure so they go straight into there major ramp to open the valve. Snippet below: Ramps? What are ramps? I know I keep talking about them, there are several ramps and important sections of them. This term refers to the portion of the cam lobe that actually raises above the base circle of the cam. It will denote how quickly or slowly the valves open and close.The first is the lash ramp. This is the where the lifter is in a transition area where the lifter goes from the base circle to an area with a more aggressive rate known as the opening ramp. The lash ramp softens the effects of an "at rest" condition to a "work" mode. The opening ramp is next and it is exactly what it sounds like. This is where the cam begins to open the valve. A couple of segments of this ramp are the major and minor intensity areas. Major intensity is the first segment and it occurs within .020 and .050 of lobe lift and in most cases will not start before the first 28 degrees of duration. This allows for a suitable lash ramp for the lifter to stabilize. Exceptions to this would be VERY aggressive roller cams which see regular maintenance as far as pushrods, springs, etc. Ramp rates are made in such a way that they allow a slowing area (lash ramp) for the valve to seat without great harshness and minimum bounce. Yes, I said bounce. Even with high spring pressures, a valve will bounce 3 times before resting on the seat. What about the area between the opening and closing ramps? Well, that is called the nose. It is the area where the valve is kept at peak lift as long as possible before the closing cycle begins. With too aggressive a design in ramps and the nose, the lifter can actually run off the ramp and then come crashing down on the nose of the cam. To combat this, rev-kits are made which use springs mounted to the lifter that apply added pressure to the lifter to keep it seated in the bore and on the cam. Attention to ramp velocity, nose design, and inertia of the lifter must be given close consideration. I have seen several "pancaked" lifters from this phenomenon (also known as "loft"), even with rev-kits, and believe me, it is not pretty. So there you go rev a cam with wrong lifters hard smashed lifter that is all take it easy it will work :P Hope this helps someone.

Hi, Yes apparently 5K/4K solid and hydrulic cam shafts have the same part number EVEN a cross reference so that is why I went ahead and used it. Also madrolla great talking this arvo top bloke and on the solid lifter conversion sending my dad to my mates engine rebuilding shop he owns and I know he cam redo cams and has a huge bin out hte back with old K motors in it and holden red motors and datto stuff ( I know as I raid this from time to time..lol) So hoping to source all parts I need for solid lifter conversion. So thanks for advise on converting to solids madrolla. Also Took the 5K for a spin with solid cam shaft and hydros in it. Runs fine to about 3000RPM so I though burn out did one at high revs I can hear the lifters not closing the valve properly as there "pumped up" So it held the valves open a fraction and lost a tad bit of power. BUT I let motor idle and put along road for a bit then sound of valves not closing went away ran FINE :P Also temps not up or nothing so my verdict is you can run a solid cam on hydros BUT not if you hunting power or anything maybe as a fast fix?? Also Felix. On the cams a solid cam shaft has a small not as steep are that is designed to take up the lash in a solid lifter application. This stops the cam for whacking the push rod straight onto the rocker and causing more force on the motor breaking parts. But a hydraulic cam has no lash so there is no small ramp at the start to clear the lash it just ramps straight to the cam point fast. Solid lifters need the small ramp for long life. So I would imagine switching cams will work BUT hydraulic cam on solids you will lose the lash ramp and could do damage. Hydros on the other hand I read the ramp on a solid lifter cam makes them pump up a bit then all of a sudden pump a lot fast this wont damage them BUT it will cause them to "pump up" and jam faster so say they maxed out at 5000RPM before now it could be at 4000RPM they pump up so that is all. This will cause your valve to stay open a fraction then you lose power etc. So road use I sit in traffic getting to the airport daily so I will get away with tme fine if you do track work not recommended. So they are switchable. Also on a last note on that when my oil is cold the hydros "pump up" straight away about 1min later they run fie as oil can get out faster so this also is noticeable. But if you have to do this swap as long as the lifter still rotates on the cam (this also differs on came hydros rotate slower than solids so mine spin BLOODY FAST right now..lol) it will get an even wear and the base of a hydro lifter is same as a solid so there is no reason it wont work. So it will get me by till I finish sourcing solid lifter conversion parts as at high way speed hydros now will pump up adn ill lose all economy..lol Cheers Cameron P.S. On a last note did find a VW site and it was talking about a solid to hydro conversion into there motors. All the people who did it NEVER changed the cam apparently there both the same so they just swap them so can't see why it wont work for a long time just it has down sides like at high revs valves not closing etc.

Hi, Ok did some research and well a solid lifter cam on hydros is a bad idea and new hydraulic lifters from Toyota are like $80 each so I have decided the car is out of action and getting pulled apart again :P As the ramp rate and that is different to a hydro cam so it will break the lifters. But I need a standard 5K hydraulic cam ASAP does anyone out there have one that can be posted to me in less than a week at all and is in good condition? Cheers Cameron

Hi, Well put the 4K cam in the 5K as it is all I have and I need the car for work so in it went. Car runs fine idles and revs freely and lifters spin as the motor is running and the push rod does so they are getting even wear and all that. So all works so lets hope it stays working. Also in the FAQ it says 5K could come with solid lifters and says there the same as the 3F Toyota motor and if u get some just drop them in and go so does a K motor cam have a different grind or ramp rate between the lifters? Also if it is wrong what is the expected time I have till the lifters shit them self? Cheers Cameron

Hi, Well called quits for the nigth adn I got my calipers out adn messured the cam out of interest adn well the bearing on the cam as still the same so spot on :P also was same length so will fit great. Only thing I had to replace was the front thrust surface on the cam as when the pin came out it mm destroyed the original one well damaged it..lol Ill up load a photo of the damage tomorrow Cameron

Hi, Well all those who said use regrounf cam and move it one tooth well bad news. I can't..lol Turns out the pin on the front of the cam has snapped shattered the front of the cam and it was all lose and 10 degrees out so it is pooped so in goes a standard 4K will post pics after I finish putting motor back together about 50% through cam swap now..lol Cheers Cameron

Hi, Well i would love the bigger cam BUT I drive 110km round trip to my training school currently to get my ticket of gas turbines so I would love a big cam BUT I also need economy. So the stock one is only for about 7 months then it will be big and SC14 ..lol But pending on what the grind is on the current mod'ed cam if it is usable with a blower well Ill keep if not ill sell. But I have manuals and the know how on this cam issue thanks to Mr TRD and well I just don't have time to dial my cam in and that as I need my car pretty much everyday so I need this cam swap done in about 2/3hr's..lol Cheers Cameron P.S. Does anyone have aircon K motor mounts or the hiace van power steering mounts for a K motor laying around for cheap?