camerondownunder88

Jip, Id imagine it is wired into the key some where down the line so key in push button but having key cut off to it also defeats its purpose..lol So defiantly a ricer part not for mm daily use but if you ask me it might be wired so power for light and other two terminals to to a relay that is wired to starter to start it. So push button flicks the relay and off goes the starter so mmm interesting as that switch is to small to handle the amps of a atarter motor. Cameron

Hi, KE70 worth nothing..lol I got a clean good condition 5 speed KE70 for $50 with all good usable parts so. If it is an auto pff id keep looking my self. Also my KE70 was metallic blue so all my wheels stayed on..lol But for gear box change took me and took_quick to change the motor from my KE70 and the gearbox out of it into my KE30 in about 3hrs all that wasn't on was the rear mount as I had to go to work if I didn't it would of been turn key start in about 3hr 10min so if u know what your doing with a mate piss easy job. If not steer clear read around here a bit and then try as yes conversion is piss easy. As I also just must add I got a clean KE30 also given to me had rust cut out of it clean interior really looked after with rego and a tank of fuel so look hard corollas are a cheap car so just look. Cameron

Hi, Well got the alt on tonight took me 20min to go from old alt on car to new one on new loom done and all that was left to do was put the fan belt back on. But it took me 1HR to get the fan belt on. Ill explaing later But it has to do with the mount shape adn possition and it not being able to move enough. I was able to stretch a fan belt on but after 1Hr for temp relief so I can get to work tomorrow but lets say it is BLOOD tight. But now car idles at about 500RPM when it first starts as the alt wants to charge the battery but after about 2min it is near normal so mm winter cold starts this car now oh YEAH..lol NOT. But I will post pics adn info tomorrow I hope. Cheers Cameron P.S. One more thing I can now turn everything on in my KE30 fan to max rear window dimister, head lights on high beam, Spot lights on I installed, stereo up high with sub running and interior light and cigaret lighter and the dash light doesnt even hardly gow :) So A I wired light wrong or B it makes a lot of power..lol I think it is B as it did glow when key was in ignition and car not on and for a second when motor was starting so but under that load the motor was about to stall due to the load..lol

Mmmm it will buff out.

Hi, I had this trouble about a week before I removed my 3K motor. It turned out ot be a vaccume line on the brakes was shot so the engine would about die under braking. I found the fault when installing a 4K turned out to be a hose was perrished so I got new hose problem solved. But try what trev said doa turn cheak vaccume of motor and it should fix the problem. As the clutch unloads the motor so it odd engine dies whne clutch pushed in. Cameron

Hi psycostud666, Well my alt I know is off a nissan once in its life as it has an N in the part number and acording to the auto electrics shop that N is for Nissan. And I have been told it was off a light truck of there's. Also I havent gotten around to the mod yet as a few other things happening here so hasnt gone poof yet..lol But with my nissan alt it had a V-belt pully allready on it :D and the regulator was external so mmm I cna then tell you for sure it isnt a RB20...etc one..lol Also dave a question for you. When I do this and upgrade the B+ line ot the battery to about 8 gauge cable can I just run the new cable with the old still there or should I also remove the old cable from the battery to the alt? Cheers Cameron

Hi, Just curious how rare is the 4dr KE20/26 or what ever number it was? As I might of found one cheap today with a parts KE20 2dr just it has been crashed front end into a tree so. So if the 4dr is rare I might just grab it now as it is going just needs some TLC..lol Cheers Cameron

Hahaha thanks for hte comments fella's...lol Umm well Dan you prob saw my age in my profile I just turned 18. Wise and mature yes, Eccentric YOUNG man who can't spell. I think better puts it..lol Just a side note I finished my DIY bead blaster today :D Takes about 30 seconds to clean a piston out of the torana..lol :) so bring on the dirty parts..lol Cameron

Go to your fuse box adn remove say the heater fuse then the radio fuse as this will save you putting tape on wires and unplugging this is how I did it..lol As fuse box labeled so u can replace them easily. Also when you have lights on high beam and heater on rear window demister and radio how bright is your dash light glowing? Mine well blinds you..lol And I have a KE30 and well I installed spot lights and a sub so I can't rn everything at once so I am upgrading the alt but if your light isnt glowing much A your alt is GOOD or B your alt can't sense the right power the batt has to charge right. Just a thought. Cameron

Hi, The KE55 or 70 or 30 BW diff are all the same so wont matter what I make it for initally. I would like this project to fly along to but due to other things this is a side project so until I well can get time to collect my donated diff or collect a free diff to make a prototype on near me it is kinda on hold. But I am hoping by the end of january to maybe have the first model in a car and flying around the streets..lol Cameron

Hi, Well I went and got the plug to suit the reg today and also I was told the reg that I have is one used in cars so it will be fine. Also the unit I have is a Bosch BX unit off a nissan so just some info there. I will run the spade connector to the L terminal as it will run the light as you said and just jump S to B+ and well now I have sorted the wireing it is just a matter of putting it in..lol But I have soem spare 8 gauge wire that I will run ot the battery tot eh B+ terminal as it will give better sensing of the battery as the S line will be jumped here and it will help the old KE30 wireing cope with the added power..lol Cameron

Dave thanks for that info. This morning I'm on my way into town and ill pop into an auto electrics shop and see if they have the bigger reg and ill buy it. But what I think will make thia alt work is what you said below. If I beef up the B+ line then on the S plug put it into the B+ one so it can sense it charging then just wire the L plug to the originla push spade connector as I am guessing this was the light and the car used the D+ terminal to originaly sense this. But with the spade connector to the L terminal I am uessing the alt reg gets power from there to charge the feild windings? As I know u need to charge them and well on the KE it go this power from the spade connector so if I put it on the L will it make the alt fire up? Cameron

Well the driver was parked how could we not get into the booze..lol

Hi, The reason for using the RE60 well it was the only one they sell. They said it is a universal one so I figured it will do the job. Will it? As the original regulator out of the alt broke..lol mmm due to out of factory running conditions..lol With the regulator I had in one of my past pics. You will notice it's L and S plug is on the underside of the regulator. On the bosch model this is off of it has a small cut out in the side of the alt there so it will not fit and my 70 amp one doesnt. As that reg I had in the past pic is off my 110A alt. So that is the reason for the new reg. With the dash light this is a pic of the loom off the back on my rolla alt: You can see the ring terminal on the front left goes to the B+ or main power out feed from the alt. and the push spade terminal goes to the D+ terminal. And the D- is wired to the B+ reminal. So if I use my big alt and wire the B+ lead in my car to the B+ lead then the D+ lead to D+ my dash light should work. then ill jsut wire the S terminal to the D+ also so it can sense the batt power and then the L i was thinking get it and just wire it to the ground so power flow so it think well circuit there so a light is on..will that work? If above will work all I have to do is kee standard wires in the car adn then just wire up B adn L. As the new alt has just the D- wired to the D+ and the B+ and the rest of the loom is tot eh S and L. But ina KE30 it works off just eh D+,- and B+ so If I use these and jump a wire from S to D+ I think ill be safe so well see how it goes or any advice you have for me dave...lol Also Dave I have not installed the alt yet so I havent beefed up the B+ line. Should I. I can get some 8 gauge cable and run it from B+ to the battery u recon or starter or both? Cameron

Hi, Yes still chipping away at this project. Found some springs that should do the job for the test unit so springs sorted. But the BW diff I was going to loan the other day to use to messure up well I couldnt end up getting it due to it not fitting in my car and we didnt have time to pull the centre out so still working on getting a diff soon as I have that ill have a proto type soon. Oh also got metal for hte unit to some 20mm thick plate sshould do but it is really hard steel so might wwear diff more but well see. Cameron

Hi, OK I have decided to jsut put this alt onto my 4K in the KE30. So I went down the road to the supercrap shop and bough the only universal bosch regulator they had for alt's on the shelf that fitted :D Cost $46 so cheap project so far.lol The regulator is the RE60 just for reference. I then went and messured the pully size on the alt and the 4K and there the same diameter so it will also be spinning at the same speed so this is a bonus. So this regulator has L and S on it so wire shouldnt be hard. But this is also the ack of my alt below: As you can see it has all the normal connections like D-, D+, and B+ and on the reg S and L. Now below is a picture of a KE70 alt: As you can see it has all the normal connections like D-, D+, and B+ but it has nothing on the regulator. So If I install the bigger alt on the 4K I will wire the B+ line the same and the D+ line off the motor now. BUT on the big alt it now has the 2 extra plugs on the regulator and as said before the L controls the warning light on the dash (must be operational for alt to charge) and S is actually a sense terminal which senses battery voltage and can step up the charge rate to compensate for extra load... ie h/lights/stereos...etc but can be simply linked to the main B+ stud on back of alternator. So to make it work can I just wire the S line to the D+ terminal on the alt as this is the battery input so it will sense how much volts the batt has to and then still work at regulating the alt? Then the L line it is for the charge light but the corolla does this a different way with out an L plug so how can I wire this L plug up so the alt works other wise it will just not charge? Alos by wireing the S line from the reg to the D+ battery terminal on the alt will this work? As don't want to "boil" my battery buy pumping power from the alt into it 24/7 cause the reg isnt working? Thanks Cameron

"as to say it disintegrated within about 5 seconds." HEHEHEHEH I have done this to. Did your alt housing glow red? That is so cool when they do ours glowed red adn just yeah Died..lol Was fun Cameron

Just sourced some info on ratios. The SC14 has a very high step-ratio, 15:1 and the inner gear ratio is 1:10.125. So mm can anyone confirm this? Also max RPM of the SC14 is 9,000RPM on the pully up front Also messurements are as follows: .........................length......width......height .......weight......displacement SC14 1G-GZE... 311mm ...148mm.....254.........11.9kg ...... 1420cc Cameron

Ok, Have been offered a blower and well will most likely buy it. But just searching for a bit more info first. The SC is the toyota SC14 with 1.4L internal capacity possitive displacement roots type blower. Does anyone no the gearbox steup in the SC14? I have read 3.44 but am not sure this is correct. As to get 200cfm at least froma SC14 the rotors will need to do at least 4,000RPM. Also I have read the 4agze has a max RPM of 12,000RPM. But I know there tachos only go to 9,000RPM so what is there factory limit 9 or 12 thousand RPM? As I don't want to over speed this blower and cook it. So i did some numbers again and came up with this: I'll be needing ~20 revs per cubic foot from a SC14 1.4 litre blower , and I need ~200 cuft/min for starting roughly, that equates to ~ 4,000 rpm of the rotors for the blower to achive. But if I was right on the 3.44 step up in the gear box I will only need to input about 1200 RPM to get my desired air flow. So I am just wanting to really find out the step up for sure so I can see if this blower will be able to push the right amount of air. Thanks Cameron

Yes 110A is a max WITH 12V input on the feild windings..lol When I was making welders from alts once before I had an old crappy 55A alt off a car. So I though lets put more power into the alt and it will put more out. I was right..lol On my mates alt test bench at his auto sparky shop we had it pumping out 110amps and the case of the alt was cool to touch :y: was great..lol So we tried doing this with like a 30A alt and we just over reved it inputed HEAPS MORE than double power and man man never seen an alt glow hot before..lol But a pic below of what an alt welder can do: This pic is of the 55A running at 55A to weld was afast dodgey welld with out a good stick handel even so not to bad..lol So an alt will make more than it is stated max on the case BUT you will need more input power and since a car only has 12V battery well that will be hard. Cameron

Ok the alt I was told is off a small truck and the regulator I'm holding is off another truck 110 amp alt. But knowing bosh the 70amp one I have is the same as the dunny door one as most of there stuff is universel. Thanks for pin info on plug will help lots. Cameron

Ok, With the wireing think I have it sussed might go to my mates auto sparky shop this arvo to use his tools to test it. This 70 Amp alt lets just say it is dirty but LOW Km's and is like new so it is all fine. I will not cut the mount on it but as all I will need is a 10mm spacer and it will go onto the 4K motor mount AND the pully will align so less hassel. But Ill get a pic soon of the spacer and how this alt will fit. With the removeable diode stuff be carefull but I had a spare diode pack here for a Bosch alt and well there are 2 different types so the only difference is the plug possition but because of its position they are non mixable so just take note of this. And as kangaroosa said rolla wire is only good for 72 amps I was also told this that is why my 110AMP alt new never used..lol and fits isnt going onto my rolla..lol Cameron

Ok After following Trev advice pull harder I got the first alt apart :y: I then proceded to remove the KE70 one. But before I got to far ahead I noticed the main power feed from the back of the KE70 one is small as compaired to the truck one. So I did a few calcs and there isnt enough meat on the back of the KE70 one to drill the hole out so below are 2 pics the first is the KE70 power feed the second is the truck one. So what I have decided to do is putthe truck one back together and just make a spacer to fit in the gap between the 4K alt mount and the body of the truck one and use a corolla pully and then ill be set. Above is the KE70 alt and power feed terminal. This is the truck alt power feed terminal as you can see it is about double as bit. So just a question now about wireing up an alt. The truck one has one of these new style plugs on it (see below) On the left of this plug the left pin is labeled S and the one on the right of the pic above is labeled L (the L is stamped upside down). On a standard KE30 I know wire the main power feed in to the bolt then what next? what wire should I cripm ont eh KE30 and push onto this plug? Cameron

Hi, Just messing around in the shed today with some alternators I have seeing what I can do for an up grade into my KE30 as the standard one now with a stereo on it is having trouble keeping the car charged. So I got out my old KE70 spare I have and another Bosch one I have unknown origin but it is rated at 70 Amps. At first look the body of the 70A one the mount was similar to the rolla one but it was about 10mm to long so it wouldn't fit. Could of used a spacer but that is messy. So I did a bit of fiddling and found the body for the KE70 one is the same size as this one. So I began pulling the 70A alternator apart to get the insides out so I can put it into my KE70 alternator. First I got the pully off then the front housing but I got stuck at the outer stationary windings. See photo below: After pulling on it a bit I found A on the bottom of it it is attached to wires. So how do I remove these windings? As I don't want to break the windings so I can use them in the DIY KE30 alternator I'm trying to make. And just for reference here is a photo of the back: Thanks Cameron

Hi, HAHAH yeah 1500 degress umm yes it was well kinda scary as the GT was spooling to :ninja: But it did go highter in that run till i shut it off. So mmm really scary hobbie I must say as well mmm really gets ur heart going..lol I aslo see EX-MR2FREAK you had a pic of a SC12 I belive blower..lol mmm is it being used..lol? I might be getting a blower on XMAS day my cousin has her blower off her old V8 dunny door so mmm if all goes well..lol So ill keep you posted but if anyone hears one at a decent price well let me know:) Also on jumping castel blowers they are good BUT finding one..lol looked into this a bit also minimal pressure from them really there a massive LB. As so much air in the castle when you jump well can't go far so it stays up so they can't actually supply much pressure belive it or not. And the fan design on them is really poor so it would be hopeless efficency from it :hmm: Cameron