camerondownunder88

Hi, Ok didn't have a spare corolla diff this arvo but I had a spare 1929 chev diff center so I have drawn a locker to suit it to give everyone a rough idea of it. This unit is 70mm long and 50mm wide and 11mm thick. The spring holes are 15mm diameter and the springs will locate into them tightly so will be drilled to exact same diameter of the spring. With two of these unit compressed into the diff center there will be a 2mm gap between both plates around the spider shaft. Now or spring length. The holes are at a depth of 8mm So 8+8+2=18mm. This is how long the springs will be when compressed. As this part is pushing out on the spider gears so it wont go in so the 2mm gap is ample. But remember this part above you need 2 of and springs to make the locker and this one is for a chev 1929 diff so don't go out and get one made for a rolla WONT FIT. As that is a demo. When ordering springs they want to know the tension at what length. So If I order springs 20mm long with 2mm compression I will need 70lbs. If I get 20mm springs I want the point where this unit will sit at close to there so assembly is easier and you not having to compress it say 10mm and springs are cheaper and there will be less chance of coil bind. So if the corolla housing will allow for it the springs in a KE20 clutch will be the right length for the job :lol: So if I can get 2 piece of scrap metal and a screwed rolla clutch I think I could make one of these for free to say $20 for the prototype. As there 23mm uncompressed so if I can get one in a vice and they compress say 5mm before bind I can use them as with a 2mm compression in my design they will be miles away from bind. If this is possible to avoid making them with out buying springs I could make the blocks and buyer gets own springs or if they want really hard springs for racing i can put them in the direction of the maker for some one offs. Also for assembly in my design I have placed holes in the blocks to slide in bolts and over the bolts place some flat bar. So you can load springs clamp in vice slip metal over bolts to hold the unit shut slide whole unit into diff and then pop off metal and remove pins locker will release and presto easy install ;) Also if you don't remove the pin or bolt from the hole if you assemble this way your diff will blow and jam if pin falls out so remember to remove it!!! Cameron P.S. Soory for all my posts but just keeping everyone updated on this project and today I was stuck at home all day so went nuts and this was all that kept me busy..lol So design done now i need parts and a rolla diff :)

Quote for springs: I went direct to a manufacture of springs and if I purchase an initial amount of 4 for a prototype the springs will cost $30 each then GST so a minimum of $120 for the springs. As for a small number they are hand made. If we then decide to make say 20 of these units we will need 80 springs so I got a price on a box of 100 as well prob need spare parts as well and the price drops to $3.65 per spring +GST. So if the trial goes well I have demand for them ill go out and buy more springs but on my limited funds that could take a while. Next a water main blew out side our house today so I haven't been able to get a quote on some steel billet to make the plates. But I am pretty sure I could find some thick scrap metal for the trial. Also I measured the springs in my clutch from the KE20 they are 23mm long roughly and about 14mm diameter. And are green in color if that helps. And I came across a LSD system like this in a datto and his springs measured 15.3mm dia and 25mm long so a spring out of a bigger clutch might be the go? Cameron

Spring prices coming as we speak. Have a place in Brisbane making me a quote on springs now. But I have an old KE20 clutch in the shed that might have suitable springs. Does anyone know the tension a standard clutch runs? If postage is that cheap ill let you know soon about this project. With the device it pushed agaings your spider gears using the springs. If you slowly turning and driving eg town or car parks it will let the gears turn and slip. If you drop the power to the ground since it is putting up wards of 280lbs of pressure on them they just both start spinning. Then the pressure stays there and once there going they keep going. I have seen one of these running 600lbs of force in one before so pending on what your doing harder or softer springs will be best. But this device simply makes the wheels continu spinning if doing a burn out but at slow speeds the tyres have more grip and force and slip. Hope you understand a bit better now..lol Cameron

Tas Rx, Ill get prices on metal, springs and getting one machined. Ill let you know as posting a Diff centre from Tas might be costly. Ill see if I can get one localy and ill find out more for you. Cameron

Hi, Ok have information on spring settings for a DIY unit. A commercial company makes these things ion the US and offers 3 different spring tensions. They are as follows: Gold springs(Street/Race) - 60lb/in Green springs(Full Race/Hard Core) – 120lb/in Red springs (street) - 20lb/in So I think we should build them with these springs as they are proven. But there kit even base kit comes with Gold springs none come with red ones standard have to ask so maybe we should just only look at the green and gold ones. Also the flatter the surface on the spider gears the better it will work and grip in. Some gears have a lip on them this must go. So to install can grind or lathe off. I would prefer lathe but by looking at pictures well doing it on the side of a bench grinders wheel will make it flat enough and emery paper it smooth. As on the installations of the kit you can buy it says tolerance between LDS unit and spider gears are 0.003 – 0.005 inches with the clip on holding it together when installing it so if we make a kit to suit a 30,50,55,70 BW diff if your diff is old worn can see it being a problem. Also the kit recommends 300-500 miles travel before it beds in and you will get full grip so don't expect results straight away. Also with the spider gear shaft I don't know if it has to be a tight fit or a lose fit around it so if some one owns a unit and wouldn't mind removing it from the diff to get some measurements it would be much appreciated. Also this device puts load on the side of the spider gears it is said to so far been tested up to 120,000 miles with no damage. But I could see low oil or old oil in the diff and this device to kill it fast. More development work to be done here yet before I make a proto type but I will hopefully get a price on springs and billet metal to suit today. Probably just mild steel for initial usage. Also If I can get a KE70 diff centre for my proto type unit I can get it tested in a KE70 running a 4agze with 12PSI boost so well find out how good it is. As I can see us still breaking diffs as we are adding a part to a small diff so not in turn making it stronger but stressing it more. But only time will tell. Cameron

By the way I suck at english so ill try my best just for you Raven. Now for my drawing. This is my design But am thinking off adding an oil channel down the arch way to lubricate this block between the shaft the spider gear sits on. Pics of it below. I made it to look good but all I have to do is add dia. to it and presto turn it into a file a CNC mil can read and I can turn these out. They are a mirror of each other so the only other part we need to worry about is the springs ;) Enjoy Cameron P.S. One is what it will look like if made from brick.

Ok seriously doing this...lol gosh i built a jet powered go kart how hard can this be..lol Ok subaru from a fast look WRC car has about 35 to 40lbs locking focre in its car. not exact value as well they race it. We also need to make these high tollerence as less tollerence will make em lose lock at speed and cause a crash. Next tight fit so springs need to be about 26mm long and about 115mm wide (from looking at suitable springs) Valve ones to long wont do job. Also to much pressure u might as well make a CIG locker as it do that to little why bother so hardest part in this is the springs Next will need to face sun gears in diff to make a better surface for spring locker to lock to. Also what should wear first diff or locker as it is a friction device. Locker. So make it out of some 4010 metal should be softer than iron n a diff but good for heat and strong and cheap. To get in diff assemble it clap 2 plate together in vice or press and get some flat bar tack weld to each piece. Then put in diff get die grinder give weld a hit and it will come apart and be in diff. Easy. More research to be done on this also a CAD and 3D drawing will come. But I am a student so is a side project but if I can get a loan a diff from a BW rolla and some one to thrash it for me when i build it for testing well seehow we go making one. As if I can make my self and get scrap bilet metal for free and I have lots of springs at home id say i can do one for under $50 for my self Also if possible drop into that guys shop see what he has in the way of drawings or exploded views. If I get a good look at one well ill do own messurements and design my self. Cameron

Do you have a more detailed phot with messurements possible of the unit? As if it is simply a plate with 4 holes either corner to locate springs then another matching plate and it goes in centre of diff or holds on to the spider gear well it would would be easy to make. If i got more details i know people who machine and I could use there mill and prob make one for some beer so if u get me drawings or messurements or some thing id give it a go. But I will get onto the guy and see if he will give me indepth info for me ;) But ah STD call at day time WOW Cameron

If it is 30 or 55 will be the same. As in my 30 I have an original BW diff but over time trying to get a LSD vad jap diff for car. But do you have this guys number who does this or a name for the part possible so I can see if a diff shop here in QLD can do them? Also might seem a stupid question but does this lock the diff hard as in if you drop clutch will both wheels smoke up? Cameron

Ok for the motor if it si a K series motor I was just told by DOT it can go it. Go figure I never knew a 7K was just bolt in but anyway. I have now attached the form you have to fill out if your in QLD to do the job it is easy as fill in they cheak and your set ;) But now for the gear box. Never asked about it as well they look the same who will know. As I can see if I tell then it is out of a KE70 and I cut a hole in the floor. GONE So how have other people gone about getting the 5 speed swap done have they just kept quiet or is it again like the motor even with cut floor just a form and your done? Cameron P.S. Wont let me attach the PDF so below is the link http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/qt/formsda...78?OpenDocument If link is a no worker it is document number qf3524 on the QLD transport site

Ok just off phone. Still have to make another call. But in QLD I was just told they go by horsepower. So if I do an engine change that is not a option my car came with from toyota I can have a max of 10% at the fly wheel. This info is straight from the RTA So now I was looking in the FAQ and noticed the 4K motor was started in 78. My car is a end of run KE30 made in 78. So what do you think about trying to go for it was an option as the mech. would have to be pretty cluey to know hey the KE30 never had a 4K. As my 30 does have the dash in it that most KE55 had and I have installed a 55 bonnet so if I say it a inbetween car thye might do it. As budget is limeted to no existant so looking for it cheap..lol As I am doing whole motor swap and that my self so far project has totaled $0. Cameron

Just looking at the work car after Nick said most rented cars are done like this and noticed the Dominos pizza echo's have these wraps. We have and echo that if you pop the bonnet you can see it is a white car but the whole exterior of the car is blue and red. But a big problem with the wrap I could see is also moving joints. As they also used the wrap on the back window of the echo and when ever you use the rear window wiper it peals a bit of the wrap up and makes horrible sounds. So most of the crappy rear window wrap is gone. So on a car if it happened to get in the way I can see it lasting a month or few at the most as on the echo it lasted 2 months only. Cameron ;) Spelling fairy says: T H E

Hi, With my KE30 the old 3K is getting a bit tired and I plan to install a 4K motor into it and a KE70 5 speed box. But I was just wanting to know what other people have been through in QLD to get there cars road legal with it and insurance to still cover them? So mainly I'm looking for info on how to go about doing this mod on the paper work side and where I should start as all RTA could tell me was ring a mechanic blah blah no help. As I know how to do the swap but since I need my car I was hoping to get the swap done in a day and the next day take the car to a place to get the blue plate. But can anyone give me a good name or number of a person in the Brisbane/ Ipswich area who can do this? Cameron

I could see if the car wasnt clean enough give it a year or so and all the stickers you could watch them slowly peel off while driving down the M1 to the gold coast..lol But with these whole wrap things how is the sun damage on them? As from stickers I have see that are out in the sun all the time eg bumper stickers. They dry out crack adn go crummy. So are these wraps a sun resistant material or just a cheap 5 year fix to cover rust for a while till they dry crak and fall off? Also I wonder hoe engine temp affects them. As a guy I know has a sticker on his botten designed for a car. ANd it went poo brown from heat so makes you wonder about the life of the stickers in general. But still willing to donate car ..lol Cameron

Nick you can loan my car any day to try your hand out on this style of project..lol Cameron

Does anyone know if those spot lights on the front bumper are toyota factory spec? Cameron

Ha Last drag meet I was at I saw a JR dragster with a brigg and straton motor on it and he had a deodorant can taped toa chassi rail and he just pushed button for wanna be NOS purge. it white then so looks more real..lol But I recon a paint can look cool to GREEN NOS..lol But use a small diameter tube like WD40 one that should do job. If not tape can to mirror on side of car and run a hose to inside the bonnet..lol Cameron

hey will anyone be there this saturday night for test and tune? Cameron

Yes I know of those ones in there all ready but I have a few more to add. Cameron

No probs. don't mind helping. But I have more to come dug up pretty much most of the torque settings for the 3K motor today as well so ill scan that in ASAP. Cameron

Hi, Just digging around in the shed and I came up with this old sticker that used to be on my car that came off a few years ago and I forgot about it. So might be of help to some one or be useful if up loaded into the FAQ. Cameron

mm witha 3K if u pput a 4K head on it will drop compresion I think..if it does shave a 4K head down they are the same as a 4K froma KE70 is 10 yr newer so less likely to be crapped. Also with ur 3K-H head can you add the number that is between the 3rd and 4th spark plug into my head difference? topic threadd. link above this message as I don't have a3K-H one yet. But heads can be sourced for free to big $$ ar wreckers so look around some one will fix you. Cameron

hahah you just found the K to T bell housing on there didnt you..lol And jst to add sorry I don't have an account Cameron

Hi, Ok just went out and measured the heads I had today in the top of the CC to see the capacity of them. In both of them I was ale to fit 35mL of water. So even though they have a different number they are the same capacity and one of the heads is off a 4K-E which I though had dished pistons and a shallow head?? So I took some pics and ill attached them below. can see in pic above the bottom head which is the 4K-E one has smaller inlet ports. Again in above pic you can see there the same CC shape. So After all this testing I believe the 83 number head is probably a 4K one. Cameron

Hi, This similar subject is being covered now in the topic "head Difference" So please add your head numer off your 3K head just so we can get another number in the 5K section. But with this setup all K series heads pretty much bolt on BUT a 3K head on a 5K correct me if I'm wrong some one but it will lower the CR and it might work. But if you run a head for dished pistons on a flat top piston motor expect CR of like 16:1 and it wont last long. Look on the number on the head and go to the Head difference topic it will tell you if it is dished or not so you can tell if your going to drop CR or raise it. Also for a learner car why do you want a SC on it and a 5K? Bit to much power maybe..lol Wish my instructor had a car like this on..lol Beat the cruddy lancer I learnt in..lol Cameron