camerondownunder88

^^ could of removed coil spring mounts and then made it leaf spring.

S series diffs came in wagon/PV KE70 cars didn't they. So if you removed it from a sedan some one could of swapped a PB diff into the sedan. Other wise my guess with out a picture is a BW diff. Cameron

LINUX FTW....Ah what version do you use? I'm on SUSE right now wanna go to ubuntu soon. Anyway back on topic. 90%...Creamed gear box section as been building helicopter ones all day..LOL But the weight on the seasaw threw me I calculated it twice and got same answer twice and that answer wasn't even on the screen. MMM so gotta work that one out. But anyway lets see how nerdy we are. Who can name all the programs on Si task bar left to right..LOL I see New mail one for out look, MSN, the clock, quick time and I give up now..LOL Cameron

I was driving home from work when that death storm hit. Man wipers flat out and umm no difference water was heavy as shit. Took me 2.5 hours to get home in a normally 50min drive from city :) But at goodna I got stuck in the FLASH flooding that was on TV. Water up to the ke30 bumper :lolcry: that was fun..LOL I feel sorry for the guy in the lowered dunny door behind me he sat there thinking should I go through the water. I LOVE NANA RIDE HEIGHT. Cam

As long as it works mate :P PM me.

Hi, Today after work I popped down to the local super cheap to go through there computers and catalogs to see if I could find an external heater tap for my KE15. The original tap I can't get anymore :P And today at supercheap we couldn't see any heater taps that you can buy or anything :D So I was curious those universal heater taps that people get where can I get one from? A picture is below of the type of valve I mean. It is circled in Pink. Cheers Cameron

Xany you hit it on the DOT :P The commercial 4K motor got thicker bores and can be bored out more. Mate of mine proved this. The average 4K out of your KE70 etc can't be bored as far. I think some fork lifts did get 4K motors I know these have thicker bores. But probably easier to get a 5K than track down a commercial 4K. Cam

SHIT hey sorry about that I just also noticed the tang missing to drive the pump..This might be why the 5K died...LOL As dizzy then any numbers on it markings also home made machined stuff you can usually tell if it is DIY from lathe marks etc so more detailed shots. Also The old Bosch kit to make a hall effect setup on holden fits a K motor dizzy I tried it with a spare setup I had. So if it is home made could be a DIY housing running a kit like those bosch ones. So can we get internal pics etc? Cameron

Hi, Interesting find I will say. As for the fuel injection it could be off a ford I was going ot do this a while ago but project was stopped so see if ecu as brand names etc on it might give clues. As for dizzy. Doesn't look home made it looks like a 7K-E dizzy. The newer vans that have K motors with EFI have a dizzy the ECU can vary etc so they run better and they look like the one you have. My local wrecker had one once I was tempted with getting it for my boosted K project But I was unsure of how much I could retard id with the ECU. But he was asking $120 for it so that is probably what it is worth. But all in all nice find. Go get 7K EFI gear for $200 at a wrecker and do it all Toyota again as most of the loom well similar wires will be there and hey EFI 5K :P Cameron

Top one is a stock KE55/30 K50. EXACTLY the same as one of mine. As for the top gear box it again is a K50 BUT. The K50 out of KE70 the shifter was further back AND had the ribbing on the shifter section of the box. Your top one doesn't have ribbing on the rear section but does on the front. Now I have found all 4 speed boxes from all modes from KE1X to KE7X had ribbing. So we can say that one is a bitsa box. It has a K50 rear section out of a KE55/30 and the front section could be from any 4 speed etc from any model OR it could be a KE70 5 speed front section with a KE55/30 5 speed rear section. Cheers Cameron

Red, Actually it is another head I picked up. But it was corroded way to far :D So was the rest of the rust in the for of a car around it..LOL so it went to the scrap bin but from what I could identify and the other half of the bottom end that was on it it was a 3K head with smaller valves go figure. Now the corolla was old so straight up in 30-40 ish years yes parts can change so I wont say some 3K heads did have smaller valves I wont put money on it but that is a case I have see so just keep an eye out I guess as can't afford to lose those valuable KW in a K motor now..LOL Also how cool is your car. Fav model in the starlet rang for that car. Wish we could get them easily here in Oz light economical easy on parts and with a 5K do boogie :( Cameron

True Felix. I will edit my post. Just a 3K big port head I have here at home does well did have the smaller valves in them until the later larger ones were installed so must of been an odd 3K big port factory..LOL But not to worry. According to a parts catalog I do have but the 2K did share the same valves as the K and K-B motor Felix so I am pretty sure 2K have smaller valves. But if he does use a 3K head we did forget to mention don't mixed a dished piston cylinder head with a flat top piston bottom end results will not be pretty. But 3K-H had higher compression than a 3K-C here in Aus so try also getting a 3K-H head as it will be shaved more than a normal 3K head. Cameron

Hi, I have done this mod my self and can say worth doing as yes a bit more oomph can be given back into your 3K. I have a 3K big port head on a 4K. As for valve seals early K motor heads has shit stem seals so oil did get into the inlet ports after the guides wore down. Later KE30 upwards stuff got the better seals that actually stop the oil. So try using a later 3K head out of a KE30. But the later valve seals can be retro fitted and the newer valve guides to early heads eg you have a big port head you want better seals on so if you want to spend some $$ do this. As for valve size. Yes K motors had smaller valves (K, K-B, 2K). So if you get an early head it could have smaller valves and shit valve seals so better to shave the 4K head. But if you get an early head with smaller valves you can put the larger ones in. I have a big port here machined out to run larger valves out of the later K motors like KE70 etc. There not to much bigger but every mm counts I guess. Also you can think of it this way. 3K motors came out in the KE30 last. Those cars are now old. So motors and heads off them after sitting at wreckers in the open etc usually are corroded up and crap and crack etc. So in the long run shave your 4K head that would be my option. As smaller port size to a degree gives faster air velocity with increases torque of a piston motor. This is why the later heavier corollas went away from big ports as they needed more torque. So my opinion is to shave the 4K head. Also post up pictures of your starlet. Is it a KP61? Cameron

Sbox those scotch discs are magic. I can recommend investing in a set of them. Also the oil is suggesting a rebuild. But K motors seem to be everywhere up north but if possible as you said trading post a cheap KE set. And at scrap metal it is $2 a KG for Aluminum and with your ABN if you have got one you get a tad more so go scrap the 3K and invest in another one. Cam

phatke30 not to 100% disagree with you..BUT One engine I did pull the head off of I used a scraper to remove the big deposits of build up. I find it hard to believe you would alter the compression enough to make it noticeable with a scraper and a scratch you might put in the piston. But use a plastic scraper never a metal scraper. Also don't sand it I agree here but on a different note. If you left dust there etc well could stuff the bore up if not cleaned out properly I feel. As just to back up my "a scratch wont alter your compression much case" once my 4K dropped a valve on the highway. The valve dinted top of piston in the cylinder. The dint was on the edge small mark was also put on the bore. Now I grabbed an old used valve put it in the 4K head no damage to the head. Got lapping compound and a drill and made the valve seat like new. This cylinder when engine was running again was down about 5psi and I mean a dint in the piston edge was a big one to. NOW Last week I ripped this motor apart after racking up many more KM on it as this motor was in my work car. I found yes blow by near the dint but not much. Also when I sat this piston in the acid bath at work top of it was HEAVILY pitted from just normal life so were all the others. So in short I don't think a scratch will do damage and pistons get a lot of pitting and small holes in them over normal operating life so I think a scraper is a safe carbon removal tool. Cheers Cameron P.S. I know phatke30 said in some cases a scratch can alter CR. eg F1 cars they might worry about scratches but for a daily car I doubt it. As you will see some pitting when you clean them up and notice what I mean

You work at the RAAF base Amberly? Looks like it in the photos. I live in Ipswich around the corner usually have a heap of parts so feel free to drop in one day etc. But I am some times out at the base my self so we might run into each other. But clean car. Nice to see a manual coupe and I love the steering wheel :jamie: Cameron

Push bike shops have them on the shelf.

Hi, Just doing some more work on my SC14 and K motor project and I need a pulley to try on the front a thin one. Now I know sigma ones are the right bearing size but I can only find the thick sigma A/C pulleys so they wont quit fit (yes thin sigma ones fit but I can't find one) So on ebay tonight I saw this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Air-Conditioning-Co...1QQcmdZViewItem Looks like it will fit like a glove. Now since it is a experiment I was curious to see if some one has one in my area I can loan or post to me or if some one can measure the ID of the bearing on the pulley and the thickness of the clutch face and the thickness at the thickest part? Cheers Cameron

TE47 corolaas were rare er to Jip and in between KE3X and KE5X models. And were classed as the Trueno model of the KE3X range.

Unplug the tacho for the win :wink:..LOL raff_gsr ask Kangaroosa to post up the measurements of his sump baffles also. He has pics of his sump in his for sale thread. Cam

Also you should consider the rest of the drive train for this build..LOL If it is in a KE30. Get a TE47 GT model (the TE47 non GT has a smaller diff) diff center. They bolt into the same diff housing etc use the same axles but are 2 pinion and a 6.7inch Diff where the stock KE30 one is like 6 inches. The part number for the whole carrier out of the TE47 GT is: 41110-20260 Ratio is 4.3:1 As for the gear box try to find a K to T will be all bolt into your KE30 then and the part number for the bell housing is: 31111-12010 Or the part number for a T50 and the K bell housing hanging off it from Toyota is: 33020-12110 Also TRD do you find your car chokes at all while running the stock JDM valves? And do you run a 5K or a different K head? Cheers Cameron

Hi, With the head bolts you can get the early K motor ones they have a thicker shank so more metal can only be a good thing. Madroller uses these and look at what his motor cops..LOL As for a sump. Just baffles. Going around corners fast oil can slosh etc So just baffles to keep it there. As for Gemini valves Redwarf is the man to talk to there. I know they can be made to fit that is all. As for the ARP bolts for the fly wheel yes any ARP studs you can get makes life a lot less stress full knowing there holding it together. Also the Cylinder head bolts that hold the rocker posts down I can recommend getting some nice strong studs. I have had to change and play with my 5K and other K motor cams a lot when solving problems etc. I find after a few times in and out the bolts tend to start bringing the soft alloy cylinder head threads with it so a nice stud there and a bolt will prevent this as the bolt will come off every time and not disturb the cylinder head. Also TRD the ARP stud near the oil pump do you mean cut it off square so it is dead flat or did you mean different? All the studs are they just about 3mm longer? As I have never heard of this being done and if the engine is being build and there is a lathe handy you can take them all down 3mm evenly fast and accurately. Also I believe ARP big end bolts for a set for a 4age rods is $80 so not to bad considering. Also to use holden 202 dual springs reason is there plentiful and well all you really need to do is grind the valve spring seat down in the head more so it can fit in as they are longer. Also felix you mentioned off set valve guides. Can you enlighten us more here? Now one of my 3K big port heads has been converted to the later ke70 valve guides BUT the bottom of the guides stops pretty much as soon as it enters the ports. I take it they were cut back when installed (redwarf can you shed info here)? Is this what you were talking about? Also I think it was 4K-U the dished piston 4K th valves in it have thinner stems or it is the same size but they taper off much nicer and faster onto the valves surface so air flow is improved. I know one K motor got better valves in this design area just can't remember what one. So if anyone knows post it up. As I think it was the 4K-U But TRD what valves are you running in the rally car? Cheers Cameron

TRD mate you are always a bloody big help :wink: As for the upright K motor the reason so I am told that they slant is in the first KE10 they tried up right but it hit the bonnet so it was tilted over. Not sure if this is true but. As for my 5K the sump on it don't know if it is stock after the rebuild but if fits in my car fit but the back of it has been hammered up co clear the cross member so if that was the mod your talking about then yes i runa van sump still. Also an upright K motor will have better oil drain from the cyclinder head also. and the higher the angle of attack intot eh cylinder head from the intake runners the more torque is produced I have read in neumrous books on porting etc so I think torque is gained when uprighting a K motor as the runners are pretty much lying down when slanted but gain anice angle when upright. As for manifold TRD upright kit might be hard to find but if you run EFI from a 7K and custom plenum I wouldnt see an issue with the manifold part. Cheers Cameron P.S. Why not ill look in the EPC tonight and find out part numbers for sumps and post up so we can confirm 4K to 5K sumps.

Trev I had never heard of them doing cranks but hey you learn some thing everyday :wink: As for the project. 3K can rev to 10,000RPM. Felix is right 5K the valves are mmmm small for the motor so reving hard might be an issue. Now if your planning to throw cash at it Put gemini valves in those valves with mods do fit. But you could always run boost? That cam the shop does for 10,000RPM is a race cam. You would want to track down say the TRD gear set for a K gear box to keep it in the right rev range for it to work good. But in traffic this cam wouldn't be fun. Also try looking at 1G conrods. Now I know 1G rods and pistons fit a 4K and 5K use a 4K crak so if those rods have the right sized gudgeon pin maybe try them. BUT they will be a bit short as in a 4K there shorter and a 5K could also be even more shorter. I haven't fully looked into this yet. I say if you can get the matching done cheap go for it. Assemble your self so you save $$ on the labor and buy well second hand parts. sit on forums etc get say used 4age con rods when some one up grades for cheap. As a stock 4age rod should hold high revs and compression EASY. But also a side note. 4age pistons are lighter than stock 5K items. And the gudgeon pin is higher up in the piston so there better balanced shall we say or less top heavy. So they will rev better being lighter etc. So go with these will be a good option. Also when you assemble you will notice 4age rods are narrow on the crank don't worry. I know of some in a rally car 5K 2 years old raced all day no issues. Yet I have seen people weld the sides up to get metal there. Personally I wouldn't weld them as could wreck the metal structure etc. But this rally motor had the extra oil hole drilled in the crank as oil pressure will help hold them still. Also push rods you will have options. 3K head use chev lifters and A12 datto rods. If you use a Toyota 3F land cruiser lifter you need moded stck 4K rods OR dished piston 4K rods. I used in my 5K steel rocker posts and moded rocker arms and moded 4K push rods on a shaved head and they just fit in so you have 2 options. Also I am going to make a warm 5K for my KE15. The tacho in it stops at 8 grand. So I will probably make this my limit as after that it is really a race motor and on the road is pushing shit up hill. The cam I can recommend would be one that has peak power NO higher than about 7500RPM. My plan is when all my parts are ready is to run a SC14 on a 5K to push the air in and help it along. But if you look out parts will come cheap. I got a 4K crank like new a stock cam I will get re ground I bought a REBUILT 5K (shaved head also for extra boogie) for $30 once running electronic dizzy and have now come across a big port 3K head to decompress the motor so I will run this and mot worry really about porting. I plan to do it cheap. I budget small as it is just a corolla. My cam shop charges $100 for a regrind. I can balance knife edge etc the crank and flywheel at work. I will do the cylinder head my self. And assemble my self and I have most of the parts from super charger setup to motor ready to go bar a spare 5K block now. So pending your time frame do it slowly you will get there int eh end cheap. If you want this over night will cost more and as others have said at that rate buy Kangaroosas 5K or madrollers 7K. So just play it smart. Also a small piece of info I want. does anyone know if the 4K sump is the same as the 5K sump? Or have pics of them together. I have a spare 4K sump and if it fits plan to modd it for my 5K project so this info would be appreciated as my 5K sump is on the motor ATM in the car..LOL Cheers Cameron

Hi, You will need later model 4age pistons with the 20mm pin as the big end on the rod needs to fit. I have never herd of a crank being machined down to size so as a machine shop. Also will rev past 8 if balanced. My local cam shops does grinds for K motors that go to 10,000RPM and has them on the shelf so Will go pas 8 with a balance. You will need harder valve springs to do this as most re grind cams run 0.400 thou lift or more and stock springs will screw up. As stock they have 0.338" intake valve lift and 0.356" exhaust valve lift. But if you can't find a nice set of dual valve springs holden 202 dual valve springs can be made to fit. But 3K-B r K-B motors factory got harder valve springs in them as they were in the "sporty" corolla so it would rev harder. The sprinter K-B springs ran a tension of 77lbs. Stock springs run 70lbs. But this 7lbs increase made the sprinter rev a lot harder. Now on the crank 4K crank will fit a 5K block it is what a 5K had factory. With the crank the hole in the end that lets the oil in. Turn the crank 90 degrees and drill another hole think it should be 3mm forget exact measurement. This will give you more oil tot he crank and improve life as more oil and more flow will be better. To do this but your oil pump will need about a 3mm shim to maintain pressure and this pressure will also be slightly higher. Also port match the head you build. Also get a 3K head. They are shaved more factory for the 3K that is why they bump up 4K compression more. This will be easier to start with BUT are older so it might be easier to get a 4K head. If you run a 7K they have more studs holding the cylinder head down so parts are not interchangeable for the cylinder head eg 3K/4K/5K/2K/K head WILL NOT bolt to a 7K. Also If you get an early 3K head convert it to the later valve stem seal. Also JDM 5K had nice stainless steel valves. Use them. Also from a knowledgeable source the TRD 3K manual floating around the head porting pattern in it to do a K motor is dated and isnt the best for performance so if you get that don't follow it to closely. Also all K motor heads apart from 5K heads I know of in the exhaust port at the end have a flat angled section where for the USA model they had air injectors there so unburnt fuel could burn was an emissions shit thing. This will hinder flow. 5K heads don't have this there smooth ports so nicer for flow. Also 4age pistons/ rods in your motor will drop compression. Dished piston K motors have a BETTER combustion chamber so if you run a 5K use 4age internals with a shaved 5K cylinder head and porting.