camerondownunder88

Just one thing. Now you want to set your shift light to warn you to change at the optimum time to change gear right. Now if your rev limiter kicks in at this point when you hit it the engine will die a bit as your changing ok you get off the throttle a bit while you change unless your flat changing but if it was say a slow shift wont this form of limiter kill your power a bit when you most need it etc. So is there a way you can add a small delay circuit to fire the relay say half a second or tad less after the light goes off. This way you if changing slow get a better change or just hold the power longer. Just a though I had. Prob not to right in my thinking but it late..lol Cameron

Breath taking...............

Are the sigma floor mats staying :fuzz:

COOL I'm the first to be in the aviation category :fuzz: Also didn't know you were still at the docks Des. You there just on the weekend shift? Cameron

a normal 4K out of say a KE70 you can't bore out to fit 5K ones and have it reliable. Bore walls are as thin as paper. BUT the industrial 4K found in fork lifts van etc have thicker bores and YES can be bored out to take 5K pistons. also if you run a SC14/12 with draw through can be done works great :fuzz: BUT they weren't initially designed for fuel to also go through them. The extra fuel is and does over time wear the blower rotor clearance and they will be less efficient and not pump as much air. But it still works and for most cases you wont notice that. But when pushing them to about 13/14PSI draw through the loss and wear the fuel creates will start to be noticed after a few KM have racked up. Also the best efficiency of a SC14 blower is at 8PSI. I plan to run mine there with draw through. At this pressure the blowers are efficacy and less heat is made o air is cooler so wont need a inter cooler and with draw through you can't run an inter cooler so I can't really go all out on the boost. But with boost personally Id prefer thicker bores and if you find a 5K easy get 3F Toyota motor lifters and use dished piston 4K push rods easy :bash: But if you run a 3K head you will need chev lifters and datto A12 push rods. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Well after not having enough cash to go out on the town tonight and being tired I decided to experiment at home :fuzz: I made this: I decided to get some acid and clean some alloy rolla parts. After this I got more acid and anodized them at home :bash: The one on the left is made darker on purpose the one on the right is 100% all over anodized but I made that one a light pink so it was more of a tint than anything. I just think they look awesome and was just letting everyone know if they want they can be successfully anodized at home on the cheap. You can also do all other parts of the motor that are alloy. Fuel pump, spark plug tubes, cooling components etc. So hopefully my KE30 and 15 will be looking pretty under the bonnet soon :) Also does anyone know a suppler of aluminum wire in the south east region? Oh and if anyone is interested I am willing to do your parts for a small fee as the amount of power you use to do this is HUGE but worth it :(..lol Cheers Cameron

HAAHHA fordvanman70 is umm kinda a member on this forum..LOL well he owns a KE20a and his son has a nice blue one in ippy :fuzz: Also ke20 ever had a factory 5 speed like his add says..so I just think the seller can't admit he is wrong. Cheers..lol

Forgot to add. K motors and 2K motors have smaller valves than normal 3/4/5/7K motors SO check your valve size in the big port head as if it is an early big port will have smaller valves also. Cheers Cameron

^^^ YES... I have a complete JDM 4K dished piston motor in the shed running and a 5K dished piston motor. BOTH heads are the same. Ports on 5K are slightly bigger I have found on dished piston motors same as my JDM dished piston 4K. philbey do you also have a dished piston 4K? If so would you part with the push rods if your looking to upgrade to a 5K or something one day? As for your heads Sbox. The dished piston heads have a cast lug under spark plug 1 and 4 tube hole so that is how you identify them. Your middle head is plain and boring. The bottom one is an overrated old probably cracked 3K big port head. Shit valve stem seals in these cylinder heads so a must is to covert them to a later model valve stem seal arrangement. Also big port heads were on the more high compression K motors. So they usually will give you higher compression than normal so it will increase your CR. And from what i can see in the photos the 2 bottom cylinder heads are out of a KE20 due to the water heater outlet pipe and how it is situated. Also 5K came out with hydro lifters normally these motors usually run dished pistons. NOW there are some do exist 5K with flat top pistons and solid lifters and with solid lifters you need adjustable rocker gear. There rare to find in solid form in a van etc. BUT can be converted easily your self. 3F Toyota lifters, longer push rods :fuzz: and then some ke70 4K rocker gear (I used ke70 3K as well prob less wear and steel rocker posts). But have a CLOSE look at the for sale threads on this forum. There is a flat top solid lifter 5K going cheap in QLD near me right now..LOL Look really hard but................. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Don't have time to fully answer this now But ill post pictures for you. But my extractors needed runner 4 to be modded to fit side drafts on and the bends are different. But KE30 ones modded will fit Felix did this. So pending brand of extractors one runner might need to be touched up to get your 40's to fit. Will post more later. Cameron

Remember Des apprentice wages at some jobs aren't good first year etc. But you can't walk in at a company at position CEO ( not in all cases here but most) so you have to at least make a start. Most apprentices clear min $250 a week after tax easy if your at home and life is cheap this covers if your not it is a stretch. As stated above wages are improving. As I'm about to finish first year and am clearing just under $400 a week so all companies vary I mean in the end you are to them an unskilled worker so they really shouldn't have tp pay u millions straight up. I didn't use a group training organization at all to do mine. There crap but they do make less paper work. As for tools $800 is a start and if your boss is keen he will buy you your snap on roll around and fill it so you get in working faster and that as $800 will be enough for basic spanner set and Allen keys etc enough for the aviation industry initially. But the only grudge I have about this $800 the third year guy at work he still hasn't got it....so really don't hope to spend it straight away. And HRV-00S I think that 2 grand all apprentices can get it but for me it is spaced out over 2 years and I get a grand at the end of every year. So weird that you get it in 4 lump sums must be due to having a family as u need some cash more/faster. But Littleredspirit you will find some one out there. Have you tried ringing a few local high schools before school ended last year? Or are planning to in 08? As my high school in Ipswich now and then put int eh notices company XXX seeking workers apply at office. a few always usually went. So this could turn up some talent fast if you want.Just ask them to place n add or something or tell the grade 10/12 students. That is one option saves paying news paper adds when most kids don't read the paper etc. Cameron Cameron

HAHAH Trev not quite all original apart from extractors and 5K now..LOL Hoping to have first start up in a week WOOT. And thanks to Gav I also got an original radio now no the crappy old tape deck mine had..LOL

Who ever cleaned that car up of the body fliud mess can clean my car any day. But as for the car dang bent seat and OUT of the car thats impressive and bike cut it like butter dang.

he speaks the truth but I am good looking.......

Nice work on the parts. Can you give us more details on exactly how you cleaned your combustion chamber up in the cylinder head? Did you also polish it? And with the exhaust ports above they look like a matt finish on the pictures. Are they polished or actually matt finish? As you probably know a polished smooth surface is better in the exhaust. And can we get more info on this motor build with an FE head? Cameron

KE15 are so much better :dance: But nice collection. Wish I could own more than one original sprinter :bash:

You hit the nail on the head...LOL ^^^ As for today...MMM pictures below I played with copious amounts of sodium hydroxide and liquid lead :dance: mmm this is what happens when I get ideas and get bored..LOL Ah all the good fun dangerous stuff comes in such nice innocent looking bottles..LOL There is 500g of near pure sodium hydroxide granuals in there :bash:

Join the club... This weeks special I'm anodizing stuff at home :dance: Getting good results to

Yeah could be 7K. Ask teddy :) Also as promised a photo of my ke70 starter I put on. The solenoid doesnt hit now BUT........ RUNNER 1 still toucheds the gear box :dance: But I can seal them on the head now. So I will be getting the gas torch out and seeing if I can heat them and bend them out a little. If not might give a double gasket a go that might give it at least 1mm clearence. Photos below: KE70 starter in :bash: Above is the pace makers. No carbon in them cad plating like new still even. There top nick. Just they sat on a car with side draft webbers once so runner 4 has a dint from the carbies hitting them. Above speak for them self. runner 1 JUST touches. Touching gear box on the starter motor bulge. Not a critical area BUT would like to fix this one day. First I just want the car to run. As one of my twin carbie setups I have and was going to use runner 3 intake has been machined WRONG so I'm waiting for a engine reco shop to open in the new year before I can crank it over :y: Cheers Cameron

Yeah i don't own a AE82 my self but ill look in the Toyota parts catalog for numbers and info and I'm sure ill see Trev one day soon and try it on for size..LOL

Thanks for the reply s. I haven't yet got numbers off the side of it but I will ASAP. But just a note. Tried it in my car today as this starter was found in the mystery box of my parts and it fitted the KE15....So if it say is a 4ac or AE82 starter then hey they might then fit old KE to. But well lookinto that more soon. Cameron

^^^ I like the one on the right. Thin and long. Is that a K motor starter? or is it one that fits from another model? Is there a part number on that one? Am interested. Cameron

As far as I know ND starters with heat shields came out only on KE70. Bosch ones that is what I once had on my KE30 I upgraded to the ND one shorter lighter more power. Ill up load a pic soon of my extractors bolting it all up now. Cameron

Oh also should add for the upgrade I used a KE70 starter newer, heat sheild etc..LOL

Hi, Yeah I think KE30 extractors "angle out more" As I find my pace maker ones I got new actually hit the starters with angled solenoids and A) the heat would ill it ASAP and B) the starter wouldn't let the extractors bolt up flush. But with later model starters with the more verticle solenoid there is the same about 2 fingers width between it. Ill see if I can get pictures of my new starter I put in and the extractor clearance. But that starter that is burnt out did it ever come close or touch the extractors? As runner 1 touches my starter with the old style. I am running 4-1 pacemaker extractors 2 inch I think the pipe is off top of my head. Cheers Cameron