camerondownunder88

Hi, Justin the first Idea I tried well though about was to change the drive housing. Why this wont work is the drive housing has the 2 bolt holes cast in it. One at 10mm and threaded the others smaller and non threaded. So changing this would be of no help :dance: Felix very interesting that yours wont hit. BUT how much clearance do you have between starter and the extractors? Also in your picture is that your 5 speed gear box? If it is they had the 10mm bolt hole so you wouldn't of found this an issue as yours would of bolted straight up. Also Felix in all my KE1X part manuals it lists the 2 different starters ke1X cars came with. Both are nippondenso and both have the solenoid pointing out more and not sitting more verticle. The only difference in the starters are one is 0.6KW and other one is 0.8 KW. The one in your picture looks like a newer model starter. I have an original KE1X starter there a bit longer and heavier. Also KE1X starters all have the smaller hole and no thread in the starter and they use a nut to hold the bolt in. In your picture it looks like the starter is a late model nippondenso item. As late model nippondenso starters all usually have the solenoid pointing more up and threaded holes. But Ill show you all this when your next at my place Felix. Also a spare ke20 gear box I have out of an early one also runs smaller holes so I think this issue could also apply to early KE2X cars. As I got the motor and starter with this KE20 he used a long thin bolt to go thought he starter and attach it. But it had a replacement new starter with out the casting dag on the top hole so the bolt went through. Cheers Cameron

HAHAH sorry better add this Trev. It is a corolla starter fits a corolla. Dads torana starter motors are slightly different do look similar but wont quite fit. Cameron

Hi, Now in my HUGE collection of starter motors I have this one below on the right: Now these are both BOSCH early model starter motors. But notice the front section on the right one is longer more casting ribs and different solenoid housing casting. Is the one on the right a reduction drive starter motor? Does anyone have a picture of a reduction gear starter motor? Also the one on the right is a fair amount heavier. Cheers Cameron

Hi, On my KE15 I purchased a set of real pacemaker extractors :dance: These extractors are the same for every KE1X model so they SHOULD bolt straight on. well not quite :bash: I found when bolted on they didnt sit flush. Upon investigating I found the cylinder 1 runner hit my starter motor. Now KE1X starter motors the solenoid sticks out away from the motor. See pic below: (I cracked the back of the solenoid this is not from heat..LOL) These starters are also heavy and have less power than the later model starters so it is a good thing to change them.These have 0.6KW. Later models have 0.8 KW. Now if you run a later model gear box in your KE1X or KE2X then you will have no issues about bolting on a later model starter. If you have the old gear box the holes in the gear box the bolts go through to attachteh starter are smaller. Now there are 2 options to bolting up a later model starter in this case. 1. You can drill out both holes in the gear box to take larger bolts. 2. You can get thin shank LONG bolts and have them lose in the starter holes but at least it is clamped up. I used a mixture of both. Why Ill tell you now. Now first ill need a few different starter motors to show this so select some from your collection. Now with later model starter motors there are 3 main differences: 1 The solenoid is nearly on top of the top bolt hole for the starter. 2. The holes for bolt holes for the starter are threaded. So bolts screw into the starter. Early Starter motors don't have a thread and use a nut. 3. Later ones (some) have a heat shield. So with this in mind I chose one with a heat shield. Now this will decide what method you use to attach it. SOME late model starters have a casting mark that hangs over the end of the top bolt hole in the starter so you can't use the thin long bolt and nut option on these. SOME how ever don't have this casting piece so you can use the long nut and bolt method on top and bottom. The stater that had the casting tank on the top hole of mine also had the heat shield so since I wanted this heat shield I used the drill method to make it fit. Below is a low quality pic can't really see it well but it shows the casting left over metal behind the hole: So what I did was decided to use a long bolt in the bottom hole. This hole there are no obstructions so it slid right through and I didn't have to modify the gear box hole. Now for the top hole grab a 10mm drill bit and you need to enlarge the top hole in the gear box for the starter. I could do this in the car JUST so probably best to do out of the car. Pic below of tight squeeze with drill: I also used the mount as a guid it held my cheap drill perfectly. Also DON'T drop metal particles/swarf into the clutch housing. I stopped here to get a rag as I did initially forget to get one for the hole. Now all you have to do is remove the drill and grab you starter and put the late model thicker bolt through the top and screw it into the starter and then get you long skinny nut and just use a nut and bolt method on the bottom hole. Now the starter has a machine flange on the end of it that makes it sit really snugly into the backing plate of the engine to align it. So if you use the 2 long bolt method you don't have to worry about alignment as it will all slid perfectly into place. I forgot to get a finished product picture of what I did but ill try to get one tomorrow. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Well Today I got bored so decided to work on the sprinter. I decided to install my newly obtained heater controls with good unsnapped control arms. But before Installing it I decided to rebuild it to make it like new :dance: Below is a rough guide on how to do it and what mine looked like before and after doing this. 1. I have a few consoles so start with your best one. 2. Strip it back to raw metal. Use sand paper or grit blast or acid it is your choice. I used a grit blaster to get bare metal. There was some surface rust on the item take this off. Below is a half way shot of the part sitting on a spare gear box. Notice the rust on the right. This was under paint so get this off also. So as a guide strip it better than this. 3. Now select your best parts for the whole unit from bushed,clips,levers, switch etc. And tidy them up redo them so there like new :bash: Below is pics of some items with a quick explanation below them. Above 2 of the levers I had to chose from. Notice back one has the part the plastic nob on the end slides on to missing so I used the front one :y: Above is after a clean. This I grit blasted just the front part of the lever. The rest of this item is Cad plated. And the plating was still good. But the front had a spot of rust. So a quick grit blast here it was like new :) Above I took all the bushes off 2 heater control units and measured there thickness. As after time they get worn down. So I didn't get sloppy levers I chose the thickest ones to use. But the controls also use 2 disk springs to keep them firm so they don't move when the car hits bumps etc. I also lined these up on a glass plate and put a straight edge on them and the highest ones I took as they still had more tension after all these years. I also measured the height and width of the studs/shafts that the heater controls pivot on. I wanted the widest ones so the levers didn't slop also. Height isnt really an issue with this part but I did it just because I could. Not enough detail in the photo but also select the best buses that slide in the frame. Just take the ones with the least wear. Again take the cable clamps with least wear. Note on on far left has shiny spot where screw locks it down. Here the cad plating has come off so it will rust here in time. So I took ones with the least amount of marks in this area. Select the best switch. I took the one with the best feel, solder joints on wires, and how clean it was. The solder joint on these can be redone if need be so don't worry if your solder is shit. For the switch I then taped up the wires and conduit it so it was neater behind the dash as there are 3 wires on this plug all can get easily caught on parts behind the dash so this will hopefully prevent r lessen the risk of this. At the back of this switch there is also a locking tang that clamps the wires down to stop them being yanked off the switch if they do get caught. Mine had become lose over time so I also got the pliers onto this and squeezed it back in a bit. 4. Now after getting the best parts paint the parts you stripped or think need painting. This can be done before you inspect the switches etc so the main frame can be drying as you inspect stuff. This will shorten build time. Below is a picture of my repainted frame :) 5. Now assemble it. Do this in reverse order you pulled it apart from. Now on the levers after both disk springs are installed the cir clip to push onto the shaft the lever pivots on is HARD as anything to get on. Be very cafe full not to scratch your paint etc. I found by using rags to cover parts and then putting the frame on a anvil and as you try to slide the clip on push down as this compress 1 of the springs so it gives you more room to play with. Below is a picture of my near finished product You can see how nice and gloss black it now is and the lever and all. All that was left to do here was screw down the switch to the front lever. You will also notice the top lever I grit blast it right backa dn painted it. Now you nearly can't see it :) Cheers Cameron

Hi, The other day in the post I received my original ke15 radio. Now I can see on the radio the ariel input, case is earth, +ve power line and the speaker out line at 15 ohms. Now there is also this plug (see pic below): Now this cord comes out the back of the radio. What would this cord be for? Does anyone know? Does anyone have a photo of this wire hooked up to something in a KE1X rolla? Cheers Cameron

MK I I got out of my box today sitting in shed. It shifts the same probably shorter as it is 2mm longer. Yes I know has surface rust ill get to that one day..LOL So no MK I hasn't broken anything, still works its just dirty. I think Red not 100% sure here just wanted a better looking one so he made MK II and he had a few gearboxes that needed short shifters so that would be my guess at it. Cameron

CT20 I recon a 4K could get it going. And if I was you just try it. As for turbo Difference. Now I have pulled apart a few turbos and the only real difference I can spot is Diesel turbos don't have positive seal turbo seals, which means that if put it in a suck-through system they can leak oil under extreme vacuum, which happens when throttle is closed. This is not a problem in a blow-through system. So if it is off a diesel run a blow through setup or risk making a mess. Also I think wheel trim is different also between the Toyota CT range from diesel to petrol. I had a CT26 off a Toyota Diesel also. A made had CT26 on a sora or how ever you spell it. They had different part numbers and the turbine had slightly different blades and trim etc. But hey as long as it spins hard enough will make boost so just bolt it on. Cameron

Not to go against what everyone has said you can get it off with the manifolds on if done right. But really when the head comes off pointless keeping manifolds on as A you should install new gaskets there. You might need them again, and they can get in the way. Quick run down. Pull off tappet cover. Undo all LINES for vac, fuel etc to manifolds head, spark leads, exhaust pipe etc. Undo All cylinder head bolts. Undo front thermostat housing now tap with mallet should come off. If it is in the car still crank the car over compression will pop it off. If you do that I like to just keep 4 head bolts slightly in still so it wont blow it sky high. Cameron

Just to add info to Red. MK I was 20.4mm thick to be picky. Also Ill throw up a few pics of MK Ito show people the weld version so they can see how the build can vary but still be good. Main point with these WELD THE EXTENSION ON STRAIGHT. If you don't the shifter will be off leaning in a different direction from where it should sit etc could get messy. Also For the spacer could just buy aluminum plate thick or thin. MK I by the looks is made with thin plate 10mm thick and 2 pieces pinned together. Also Red after talking about it I had a bent rusted now in the bin shifter. I cut the straight part off at the ball. Would be enough metal there to drill and tap a thread so you can have screw in longer sections so you could vary/tune your shift. Never took pics of the cut and metal room but. Pics below of MK I Above close up of weld. Cam.

WOW 3 ke15 very nice collection there. Keep them original and nice to see it daily driven. Mine will also get that treat ment of daily driving in the new year. Also in Caboolture will have to go have a look one day. Where did you manage to find 3? I am always looking for other KE15/17 cars. Cheers Cameron

^^^ Mate you are tops :y: How well do the N13 pulsar units go with boost? Cameron

Hi, Been a bit slow to reply to my thread but here goes. I also believe bigger springs you will lose power. It takes some energy to compress the spring. More energy is taken for larger springs. Now if the theory was right when you compress a spring one is closing that would mean you use 0 HP to compress the springs and umm how can that be there are losses, friction, and you can't get something for free the laws of physics just don't let us do it. So totally BS the crow cams page that says that. As for the springs talked to my engine re builder and got a 800 page text book on performance piston engines and they all say the inner spring is added to be more of a dampener at high RPM and the extra load also stops valve bounce. They are best suited for cams running more duration than 270 degrees I have been told by both sources. So I think I will still use them. They came off a 4K head that was running stock valves and retainers so with my 5K the springs should go well. Just I don't ant to lose more power..LOL Also TRD I will do the scales check and see what I come up with. But can anyone tell me the stock spring install height into a 3K head or a 5K head jsut so I can get a height as at the moment I don't have any of my K motors in parts to measure them up. Cheers Cameron

Oh yes I am defiantly using new guides no point in installing old one. Yeah the ovens at work have thick metal grills in them or heat bricks or milled flat surfaces that are huge so we now it is flat. But well cross fingers it wont warp but if I initially try 80 degrees C it shouldn't (touch wood) warp to much..lol And horse shoes..LOL Ill corner the market. Yes I know what you mean I got a tired 3K with poorly tuned asian carby and run over 500km a week in the ke30. Fuel bill is a pain and I usually how no dockets :lolcry: But hoping to get my new 3K in some time in the break. Cameron

HAHAH Felix you guessed right. I am removing guides and installing later ones with real seals :lolcry: But one big port head I have here has later KE70 valves seals in it but need replacing so the head is all ready set up for them. But good thinking. Sbox no more ideas please..LOL Am still finishing off my metal smelter then have a few other to knock out..LOL But I do like the idea of a hot oil bath. TRD ke70 I can do pretty much any heat so I might up the temp a little and see how easy they are to remove. Cameron

Thanks or all the information so far guys Sbox I don't mind trying this my self. I asked the machinist at work today to make up a small drift for me that fits in the valve guide and sits over the edge as I hammer them out. But since I'm on holidays now this wont happen till next year. But I was reading in a corolla manual I had today it says 80 degress C heated and then hit them out. So I will also do this at work in the parts oven then they should fall out. I will then clean it at work and all the valves and it will be ready to machine up :lolcry: I will let you know how it all goes. But I also don't mind doing this as I have been collecting parts for a while now and I have a few big port heads so if I break it meh. Not to worried. But useless fact my engine builder said that there is about 2 thou crush when he inserts new guides to give me a guide on how tight they will be removing. Cheers Cameron

Madrollers turbo 5K has proven reliable so far in his KE10 so power can be made from a 5K safely but like anything has a limit. Also the reason a K motor is slanted is in a KE10 the K motor was make installed when designing upright and it touched the bonnet. That is why they slanted it and for later models TRD made an upright kit. So judging by the height and that of my mates 2T-G in his car and a 3T-G he is building they wouldn't fit easily AT ALL into a KE10 But I mean with $$ any thing can be done so it is your choice. And remember end of the day it comes down to power to weight ratio. KE10 are light as anything so a K motor still goes quite well in them. But if you really want to change go a 4age. Seen it doen as I said before went hard as and still kept some originality to it. Cameron

HAHAH p_schrapel if you want to swap a running KE30 sedan for it I'm up :lolcry: I also owna KE15 there getting hard to find. Id go 5K or 7K. I know a stock 7K in these bad boys FLYS :fuzz: My self I run a 5K and am slowly building up a hotter 5K for it on the cheap. Also if you decide to run a 5K etc or a 4age can I have dibs on the original cylinder head if I may? My sprinter original motor was missing and I want a KE15 cylinder head if possible. But I have seen KE15 with 4age in them also so that is a swap I know you can do. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Just in need of informatoin on how to match valve springs to a motor. I have a set of dual valve springs off a 4K head to suit a K motor but I have been suggested by a person to not run dual valve springs as it is over kill etc. So I know there would be a way out the how to calculate amount of valve pressure you would need when it is fully open and also seated shut. So can anyone enlighten us on how to match valve springs to a motor and what to do? As I don't want to kill cam lobes or break parts of the motor from having to hard valve springs for the motor. Cheers Cameron

madrolla68 you read my mind. I am getting a big port head redone for a hot 5K in the making BUT..... I plan to remove valves guides at home. Bead blast and acid dip head at work to clean it. Supply 2 sets of good valves that are cleaned and like new so the engine shop can pick the best ones. And also supply a nice set of dual valve springs :yes: So all he will have to do is crack test the head. Cut valves to right angle, cut valve seats and then install new guides and the valves and skim head. DONE. Oh I also plan to polish the ports at work also. So The more I can do the more $$ I save in labor. That is why I want to know how to remove the bastards. Also I was at my engine builder today looking at his gear and he was showing me how it is done so he suggested I remove them my self so it is a cheaper but just as good job :o Cheers Cameron

Hi, I have a 3K bigport head sitting on my desk at home that I want to give a rebuild so new guides,acid clean,skim, polish, port etc. But I was curious what is the best way to remove valve guids from a head? What temp should I heat it up to if I need to heat it up and do corolla ones get pushed down out of the head or up out of the head towards where the rockers would be? Cheers Cameron

I might be able to do all dates proposed pending if my ke30 will have a motor. As it is getting a gift for Christmas. Cameron

Nice ride :o Thumbs up hear finely a hot K motor in a KE70 you more often see 4age..lol But you said part numbers in his build logbooks. can't flick through to see if he gave part numbers for: valves intake and exhaust lifters and the push rods he used? Also can you post build pictures if you have them of the moded bowels of the big port head and if possible do you have photos of the sump? Cheers Cameron

Other option is if you find the RARE as shit rocking horse Toyota speedo sticker. There was one on ebay a while ago I lost. It is a sticker designed and printed by Toyota for a KE10 speedo to convert it to mph to KM/H with out readjusting cable or anything. Quite rare item does exist and if you want to go that way just keep an eye out for one. OR Another rare option is to find a KE10 KM/H speedo. They do exist. the part number for it is: Sprinter part number) 83110-12041 KE11-B,ke11-CB, ke11-FB, ke11-CFB) 83110-12022 ke11L-B, ke11L-CB, ke11L-FB, ke11L-CFB) 83110-12060 Now the reason for them having a few different versions of the km/h speedo is that A sprinter one from what I can see in my parts catalog has slightly different mounts compared to normal KE mounts with out the tacho. But Felix since you have pulled your KE15 dash apart you might be able to shed light on this? Also in the parts number book it lists there being 1 speedo drive gear for the ke1X cars even though there were many diff ratios. So the difference in a KE10 is they probably made the speedo read less or more in the speedo not at the gear box so that is also another reason for a few different speedos. Also useless fact the left hand drive version of the corolla KE1X has a 100mm longer speedo cable. Cheers Cameron

HAHAH LINUX + VODKA = mmm HELL..LOL especially if your compiling shit and DRUNK/wasted..LOL gotta try that. As for the test who has tried it drunk. compare scores :lolcry: