camerondownunder88

I remember that set on ebay. Was neat YES. BUT missing a few hard to get linkage parts I spotted and the carbies I think were single carbe ones both bolted up and also the set I saw didnt have original air filter. So Again about $300+ is what you will pay for a set that is a bit muddled up and rough around the edges. But hey 30+ year old corolla parts umm yeah fair enough to say take what is given to you as you will never get a perfect set really. Cameron

One of my twin setups came with the car all original missing air filters on the KE15. Other set I got rebuilt carbies (looks like home job but there done) small port twin carby manifold (water inlet pipe cut off) and air filter box modified to fit a subi air cleaner this set me back $200. BUT that was mates rates so I consider that cheap so budget high. But as Felix said KE1X can pretty much run any carbie so webber will probably be cheaper still and they should be able to touch you. Cameron

Hi, Twin carby setups are NICE. I find good throttle response and allows a lot more air flow and motors become more responsive.. There nice. BUT Air filters not made for them now and to buy a setup with the original air filter box RARE as rocking horse poo. I have 2 setups int eh shed one with airfilter box but mmm crabbie carbies and then another complete original big port setup minus air filter box. Now if you run extractors the 4th cylinder runner usually hits the water cooling inlet line to the manifold so a lot of twin carby setups have this water line ground off from past owners. Hard to find a set untouched. but pacemaker extractors 4-1 for K motors I find down hit this water inlet so you can get extractors that wont touch. Also Linkages I can send you pics if you get stuck on how to assemble BUT if you don't get linkages with the carbies you will find it hard I can't find them anywhere as I'm missing 1 linkage part off one of my setups and can't find them. Also in my KE15 original setup the carbies have a slightly smaller needle and seat in the carby. The replacement needle and seat you can buy for twin carby setups is the larger size. I had a few teething issues with replacing my seats but I got there eventually with a mix of different parts so this can also cause issues. BUT if you want get 2 normal carbies easier for parts and a single carby has bigger jets in them. Run 2 of these on the twin manifold for a bit more grunt also. Cameron

Nice holiday. What is involved in getting cars back to Aus? Also didnt happen to get pictures of any HOT KE15/17 cars in that 5 floors of Toyota goodness? HAHAH are those apple candies better than those German ones? Cameron

OMG how did we forget the flux capacitor :P

Lets see. I sourced a 5K block free (guy who did deal was a ledgened) that block I'm usng for my build now. Another 5K i got running rebuilt, electric dizzy, bored big cam etc stuck to a dirty ke55 for $30 I SHIT YOU NOT. So from free and upwards I think. But end of the day it is a dirty old rolla. DON'T PAY SHITLOADS. I feel sometimes the prices are rediculus but hey that is me..lol Cameron

Hi, WOW SO INTERESTED...mmm need to road trip now. You need 4K dished piston push rods for 7K and HOT dished piston 5K's. MMM wonder if I can easily get the conrods out alos. There a hot item from those motors also. Thanks for spotting that mate. Will see what I can collect Cameron

With the new laws if the car came stock with that motor you can drive it? As KE30 came with T series motors. go get a 2tg in a KE30 fun fast legal I think for you? As here if the car came with the motor wont need a blue plate so a 2tg swap into a ke30 is easy as actually legally. And you can use all bolt in parts. Cheers Cameron

Well if where EVERYWHERE in the universe umm that means we didn't even leave the start line :P must of left the hand brake on...............

HAHA I don't have any money to throw at corollas either but I do what I can I just collect parts measure weigh them and work out the BEST ones to use then take them to work make them better then I'm done. You can make a good combo with factory items. As for head. If your running NA I would shave it. I run 200PSI in my 5K man it does make a NICE difference. In a factory 5K engine manual I have some variants of it factory had 150PSI so a good shave and you will feel the difference :P And it is cheap to do. If you use a 4K head on a dished piston motor will drop compression REALLY LOW. If you run stock 5K dished pistons you need a 5K head. TO run solids on a 5K head you will need. 3F solids, 4k dished piston push rods (or ground down 4K-C ones), If you use the ground down 4K-C ones you need modified rocker gear as well. I have pics of this as that is what I run in my 5K in the ke15. SO far no push rods have popped off right up to 7 grand :) Ill get pics hard to explain the actually grinding BUT. Easy to do all you need is a bench grinder and safety glasses. Then yeah it will all fit. I didn't use my rare set of 4K-U push rods as if I bent one there HARD as HELL to find again. So I worked out a way to make 4K-C ones fit as a set of them isn't hard to find..LOL Cheers Cameron

Hi, Well my history is. Daily known its history since new. Has 498,000KM on speedo now and original 3K never been rebuilt or touched. Gets driven hard some days easy the others still going strong oil I check once a month and water well I drove it for 20min once no water in it. Put water in fixed leak no problems so water meh don't worry. 5K I once had in a car was rebuilt. The pin in the cam shaft snapped off and advanced the cam 5 degrees. Couldn't work out why car ran like crab before 2000RPM and then after 3000RPM. Drove it for a month like that. Mind you between 2 and 3 grand went harder than a V8..LOL And this problem made the cam rip the bottoms off all my hydraulic lifters and bent 2 push rods and made one compress so it was shorter. AND IT STILL RAN. So there a frigging tough motor. A KE70 I once had blew gear box blew diff valve bounce DAILY thrashed non stop on weekend and 4K still went. so again TOUGH. As for lifters I would simply go solid as cheaper, lighter etc. BUT depending on what cylinder head you use is what setup o lifters you want. Do you know what cylinder head you want to use on a 5K yet? If you do we can help. I know of 3 ways to do a solid lifter swap on a 5K for all heads and it is fairly easy. Also Ring Toyota. I can't confirm this my self but I was once told by a reliable source for 1 hydraulic lifter new for a 5K from Toyota is $70. Now I can't confirm this I have never priced them my self. BUT if that is the case 3F solid lifters are $11 each so do the maths solids will be cheaper..lol Cameron

Hi, Stock sumps are crap for racing best to baffle them. Also I believe 5K hydros or after market ones that are anti pump up are umm more expensive than solids. So if ti is a budget I would still go solid as cheaper. And push rods easy crowcams do custom length push rods on the shelf I can give you the length of a 4K-U or A12 datto rod if you want. Will need 4k-U rods if running dished piston 5K solid lifters or if flat top 5K running solids need A12 rods. Also hydrulic lifters since they always run 0 valve clearance they actually create less intake vacuum. Solids having the valve open a fraction gives it a bit more sucking power. So solids also better for this. coln72 I don't doubt you how hard you revved your motor BUT. with stock hydros Toyota manuals say don't exceed 6500RPM after that they suffer pump up. So interesting your lifters still worked well. But a stock K motor don't rev it past 8 grand with out parts being balanced other wise the blocks will crack FAST. If internals are lighter and balanced well rev a lot harder. Also another note there are 3 different kinds of conrods for K motors. All have same part number Toyota just changed shape/weight etc. Now one has a thicker beam. I look for them. They are hte middle one in weight not the heaviest but not the lightest. heaviest ones are well crap more weight means more weight spinning fast etc. Lighter ones look WEAK. So avoid if your making power. Only way to find the rods you have collect K motor conrods..LOL I have MULTIPUL lots at home some are crap ones and some ar e the middle weight thicker beam ones. So just pot luck which ones you get really. Cheers Cameron

Trev people upgrade suzuki's to 5K/4K K motors all the time..lol so thats one..lol

HHAHA will the sensors be fast enough to sense our 1/4 mile time..LOL

Hi, Not 100% true taz..... 7K mounts look the same as roller ones BUT there a tad shorter to compensate for the wider block. So if you get a 7K YOU WILL NEED the 7K mounts with it. If you get 7K mounts then it will bolt into a K crossmember in a sedan. As they have thinner mounts to compensate. Also you need to modify the sump to fit. So if you want to bolt it in all you need to do is cut weld sump and drop in with 7K mounts EASY So taz there the same looking but if you pull yours out you will find there slightly different look nearly 100% the same but..lol Cameron

MM lets see. Under the bonnet of my daily a 3K running 496,000KM. Revs to 7 soem days and record is 5.6L of fuel used in a119km long trip to work (that is return) in Brisbane at 6am. That was 2 weeks ago. If I use the liquid noise pedal more well it will dwindle to over 9L used..lol My KE15. Picked up a rebuilt 5K never run sitting in a car (got the car to) for $30. Guy just lost interest. Has stock springs (will explain why more down page) and slight bore ACL shallow dish pistons shaved head (200psi per cyclinder now. Stock is 159 PSI that is also pending K motor some differ). and a tidy up. Went well while I ran it in the Ke30 now it is in the ke15 about to get going again. It now has K-B twin carbies, pacemaker extractors thermo fan smaller altornator, solid lifters (4K-u Prods and 3F Toyota lifters). Now...While I work on getting the KE15 on the road I am building another 5K. This one I plan to be good on economy, reliable, but quick and fun at the same time. So far I am collecting parts. I am in no rush to do this so I can save as much money as possible. Now I got a free 5K block. This motor was rebuilt and then a new piston cracked. sat in a car till I got a hold of it. But was stripped as I needed the block posted from NT to QLD. That cost $75. This I have acid dipped, cleaned threads witha tap, and be burred internals of it from casting, cleaned out oil galleries, also got best studs for sump I had installed etc so jsut cleaned it up. I got a oil pump out of a 4K. NOW oil pumps in a van 5K are different to sedan K motors so you need a sedan one to run a sedan pump. I have lapped the pump to really tight clearences. Messured up about 5 different oil pumps I collected and got the body that had the smallest internal cavity size still, biggest outer gear and biggest inner gear and shaft. Then it made the pump tighter and man it pumps oil doing the hand pump test OH oil flows really well. With a 2.5mm shim. Also I polished the pump. Cost free. Also lock wired pump up and will lock wire it into the motor so no chance of it coming apart..LOL Next I got a 4K-U running motor donated to me. These push rods are needed to run 3F lifters in a 5K with out having to mod your rocker gear (to use normal 4K-c rods you need to mod your rocker gear). So out of this motor I got conrods, crank, flywheel, push rods, rocker gear, dished piston head, oil filter housing, sump. All those parts sump acid dipped baffles weld in at work and currently working on getting it chrome plated so it is slippery (also looks good) so oil slides easy in it. Cost free metal, free welding, mate owns electroplating shop so free chrome dipping. Oil filter housing polished it, drilled out the holes larger so it flows more. DONE free Conrdos. Will get ARP stud kit (about $80) and I will linish them and shot peen them. I can linish for free and possibly get shot peening at work for free pending so again strong and free. I didn't touch the big end or gudgeon pin end as they were all still in spec and flat and tru so stock rods are good. Crank. So far just cleaned up. hoping to knife edge. We also do this at work so if I get spare time that will be done. Then all I have to pay for is balance. Flywheel. Got faced at work. sending to re builder to get it balanced to a heavy duty clutch so it is nice. Head off 4K-u. Now dished piston motors have HEAPS better combustion chambers so I am sticking with this instead of using my 3K bigport head. As dish piston heads are slightly larger ports so more air will flow in but it wont have an as low velocity like 3K big ports (as you need some velocity there. This can give more torque having higher velocity) So that is why I'm using this head. I will let an engine shop do this but I plan to polish exhaust ports, just clean up intake, new guides, 3 angle valve seat job and polish combustion chambers. I am going to run a SC14 so I will polish my combustion chambers as I'm going to run dished pistons with dished head and possibly slightly higher CR than stock so if i can limit carbon build up I get less chance of pinging. Valve springs. Well stock 3K-C runs 70.1lbs pressure. This revs to 6600RPM stock. 3K-B got 77lbs springs and can rev to 7500RPM stock. So you don't need super hard springs to rev a K motor much harder. Now all K motor with hydro lifters got 77.2lbs springs also. So if you run stock hydro 5K springs with your motor you can rev hard and springs are cheap. But for my build I sourced a set of dual valve springs off a 4K race motor for $50. SO cleaned them and ready to use. Also free length of solid lifter springs are 465mm hydro lifter springs run 48.0mm so with hydro lifter 5K springs a bigger cam can be run with out worry of all the issues you can have and can rev harder. Rocker gear stock BUT I removed the springs and put solid spacers in there so at high RPM lifters wont walk sideways on valves :'( As for timing chain I got dual row. But I am still out weather or not to DIY a old gear for cam to make it adjustable or get a roller masters adjustable kit for a K motor. There kit is NICE machined gear not cast and LIGHT as so think Ill go that option. Over 100$ though. Cam I got 2 3K cams and will get them reground to a grind I want. Is $100 per grind on them. Ill go a grind for NA then boost so later when SC14 is on it will be sweet. Pistons. ACL ones cost price $200 for a 5K so I think I can bargin a place down on them. If not hypertech will be next stop I think. As sound good. If you use stock pistons but use JDM ones. I have a set in the shed ill have to dig up the photos but more meat on them better cast etc seem stronger. But you can run 4age pistons in a5K there lighter adn the gudgeon pin is futher up in the piston so the weight of it is lower down so in turn it "slaps" lesss and make less load on the motor so there a good option will rev VERY hard then. Intake. I got a SU LYNX manifold from a guy who restores mini he got it wanted carbies on it I offered $10 for manifold he said ok as he can't use it. So I will use this. SC14 piping. Got for free 2 inches with silcon hoes bend and all. SC14 sourced with HS6 SU ready to bolt into a K motor $80. So that was cheap. Crank pulley I am using a 4k-U/5K one dual row harmonic balancer in it. Will jsut blast it and prob get it restored new rubber that is it. Also 5K harmonic balancers run a different position timing mark to 4K-C motors so don't run a 4K-C or 3K-c etc cam cover with the degrees on it with a5K/4K harmonic balancer. I am using the harmonic off the 4K-U I got it with its cam cover so I get marks right. Dizzy. I will run electric one but get it re graphed to suit. They have different weights etc in them to sedan motors points dissy so they make more torque down low for a van. I want this changed. So regraphed to suit my cam. Cost about $160. Coil. Will get GT40 from wrecker $10. fuel pump just an electric one easy. Water ump I have been talking at work about a electric one jsut because I can. so thiking that now. Also altornator I will wire in a switch to it to drop the 12V to the field so it makes no power. This greatly unloads the motor so for racing/hooning..LOL flick of switch less load on motor more power at wheels. When I want it back turn it on and wham charging again. Old hot rodder trick. This is what I'm doing. As you can see I have sourced all parts CHEAP as possible over time. Cleaned them all my self doing what mods I can my self. Using people I know who can mod stuff like electro plating, shot peening etc to get parts moded free/ beer/cheap. Then my engine builder who I know well will mates rates if I supply finished parts assemble for $200 with a warrenty. So If I get him to do head and assemble adn finsih a part or two this will stay cheap. I know for a K motor head to regrind stock valves to suit and 3 angle valve job is $55. So he does work cheap. This way I hope to go cheap but NOT nasty and get a nice motor. Now for valves. I will use stock 4K-u ones. The motor was a JDM ones. I am told later Aussie K motors got shit steel valves. JDM motors got nice stainless valves. So using my JDM valves with regrind. I figure SC will force air in and when it is NA initially cleaned up ports will help a tad. If you want I KNOW gemini valves slightly moded will fit a K motor. But takes so labor so cost might get high. But Gemmini valves are fairly large so flow is great for a K motor and there pretty much as large as you can go on a K motor so size to aim for. Also From some info I have kicking around. This is why to use solid lifters than hydro ones. "Well when you get a modified cam profile(lumpy cams bro)they grind away the base circle of the camshaft to obtain the new modified profile so the lifter runs lower in the block,now if they have taken off so much as for the lifter to run out of its "reserve"ie the distance between the lifter cup and its retaining clip you`re going to have problems which would necesitate the creation of a new hydraulic pushrod ie one that is longer. Secondly a hydraulic lifter weighs more and therefore will induce "valve float"sooner than a solid lifter. Thirdly a hydraulic lifter at high rpm suffers what`s called "pump up"this is where the engine is doing high rpm and the oil pressure is high and the lifter basically pumps up "extends itself"and wont let the valve get back onto its seat producing a misfiring situation. Forthly a hydraulic lifter doesnt produce as much manifold vacuum due to running zero valve clearance and will act like a wilder camshaft than the same camshaft would on a solid lifter." That is me for now sure Ill think of more later. Cameron

Flat out you hit the nail on the head. I think the K motor was slanted (from what I read) due to height in the KE10. Design car step 2 design motor nwo make fit..lol So opps lets slant it. A few trade mark things in the motor suggest this also eg oil sits on manifold side of the head I mean if it was up right it wouldn't as much so defiantly a slant motor after it was all done. But in my KE15 with twin carbies I can tell you now VERY tight bonnet clearance. Single carby less of an issue but with twins I find it worse so mm slant for that reason. And I think this kit TRD up right was primarily used for KP61 racers? Correct me if I'm wrong? And Under the counter med man is also missing the TRD intake exhaust and rubber for the mounts. But hey I praise him still for what he has managed to get. He will have the nicest work rolla ever :lol: THUMBS UP. (pitty its not all in a KE15 shell :'( ) Cameron

While others see jokey wheel/ training wheel I see a rudder..LOL You ever seen the rack and peanut in a corolla?? Well I wouldnt want that at Next Gen warp let alone Gen ONE!!! Red a must. I believe exhaust paint does come in red so tops marks for presentation.. AND OMG I bags driver :'( Thats me in the pic..lol And can we get that pic entered in the KE1X corolla T-shirt forum MAN id buy that pic on a T-shirt any day defines what corollas are all about..LOL Speed holes BEFORE the tape also. As we hit terminal velocity the tape will be "PUSHED" slightly into these holes and thus giving us a golf ball appearance and increasing our speed ability :lol:

Jet A is currently 0.63 cents per L at the bouser at the Brisbane international Airport..lol So well use that price. Also if were leaving this planet (well reentry is a must to complete BUT if we make it to mars why go back) we don't need to worry about prison or CO2 emissions so we can burn what we want and steal money from the US to :'(

Trev's Boss kicks back harder so he will regret that..LOL Me mm expecting my surprise in T-minus 1hr 34min. lol Also $140 for roses. They would either be anodized polished titanium petals with gold stems and silver brazing to attach them OR They just saw him coming and the poor guy on the side of the road had to sell the days end of stock..LOL

COUGH..umm excuse me if I interrupt BUT. Thickness of tape you forgot. You did the maths for LWH..etc thickness. If we wrap a rocket to the roof racks well need to wrap it in a cylinder form. Say the TF30-P109A (motor in the F-111) the motor is 6.12 meters long with After Burner (we need that for the celebratory BBQ in space) now when at max heat which is 2066 degrees C it grows 2.5cm in length. So add 2.5cm to 6.12 meters. We get: 6122.5cm So now for diameter. The TF-30 is roughly 1.5meters diameter (don't have exacts on me) Now a corolla is mm say 3 meters (we need stock ride height to get launch ramp clearance). This gives us a cylinder 6122.5cm long and 4.5 meters diameter ( i will stuff up maths in this so hold on tight...Prob have all ready..lol) Now if the cylinder if we wrapped it didn't grow in diameter (amazing what next gen warp can do) and it is 14.3meters round (girth) and a roll is say 20meters long. We will need to wrap a total off: (number of rolls X 20meters) 10,351,966,880 meters of tape we need to wrap Now divide that by 14.3meters we get: 723,913,767.832,167,832,167,832,167,832,17 That is how many times well need to walk around the cylinder to wrap it. Now if we go from one end to the other and tape is 5cm wide that means well get: (length of cylinder / width of tape) 1224.5 rows of tape. So divide the number of wraps by rows to find out how many wraps in each row: 591,191.317,135,294,268,818,156,119,095,28 That is how many layers we need. Say tape is 0.6mm thick. well need ground clearance for launch ramp of: (amount of layers per row X thickness) 354,714.790,281,176,561,290,893,671,457,17mm So convert to meters: 354meters roughly ground clearance...mmm Seems wrong but hey who wants to double check me. So we will need sleds for this bad boy. Lift kits don't hit that height. So who has sled info we need ASAP to get the bad boy off the ground. Also weight and fuel. TF-30 pumps out 20,840lbs thrust with after burner going and chews 306L/min with after burner going so well need a lot of 08 corolla boots to fill with jerry cans also. Ill let some one else work out the jerry can fuel situation..lol Cameron

Well can't really quote a CC of a jet engine so the motor swap wouldnt break the size limit so mm should be legal no blue plate needed..lol

WTF WTF WTF how did you get a TRD up right kit int eh mail..wheres mine I think the postie made a bad mistake ARH!!!

Id hate to see the size of the roof racks to hold those babies :y:

HAHA forgot that to Mr TRD.. I noticed this when I was using one on my 3K once..LOL as the Kf series van with 4K runs 12 degrees BTDC while the 5K version runs 5 degrees BTDC..lol Now thats in Europe. other countries it is 8 degrees..LOL just to make it harder Cameron