camerondownunder88

UPDATES: I have decided to get a thermo fan for the corolla as it will give me more power and better cooling. For the thermal switch I use a factory thermo switch out of an EFI KE70 system it id designed to switch at theright temp for a K motor and looks neater so I fitted one to my thermo stat housing. Next I got a fan from ebay and used the mount kit with it and mounted it on the front of the radator is a huge fan moves HEAPS of air. Fan works great kinda big for the radiator but it was cheap unused never opened in box $10 I mean can't go wrong and I got a free spare motor new and main frame for a thermo of same type so SCORE. Pics below: This is the fan new nice design CHEAP :nervous: Sorting out wires. NEXT.... I had starter issues. So I got out one of my new KE70 starters. These run bigger bolts to attach it to the gear box so I modified the gear box to suit by drilling out the top hole and using a through bolt on the bottom of the bell housing and works GREAT. While in there I finished the new loom I had started earlier for the car. I just did battery-alt/charging-starter loom. As over time all the wires had corroded, perished, wicked up oil and dirt, and connectors had become brittle So got onto my sparky mate a few rolls of wire later to the original color and I had a loom took about a day to get it done I was happy. I used 4 gauge wire from battery to starter and ground cranks like nothing ever before and I run 200PSI cyclinder pressure due to shaved head so helps a lot. I also run a battery that could crank a V8..lol Pics below: Also I noticed what is in the picture below while swapping the starter motor: Must of cracked over time so lucky I was swapping. Also the KE70 starter was a heat shield type. I had to remove the heat shield to get it to fit in a KE10 as the other week I picked up some KE1X pace makers |blink| So I will get the exhaust shop to bend them out from the motor for me for heat issues also then try to refit the starters heat shield. NEXT.... Drivers seat adjuster.. Well in short it was broken I fixed :lol: Pics below: Old adjuster above NEW ONE :lol: Then... I wanted an ORIGINAL heater valve again not a poxy after market one that prob will break 6 months on.. So I stripped 2 for parts got the best parts. Blasted them acid dipped them new o rings etc. BUT the lever on it still was seized. I had it in penetrate for a week soaking NOTHING and I snapped one lever trying to remove. So I have re-built the current unit in the off position and it wont turn on. But in case the road worthie guy tries to move the lever in the car I disconnected its wire under the dash so just in case lever in car moves valve stays OFF. Pics below: Upon opening after cleaning with high pressure water and air in it and everything this still remained. semi clean what the cable looks like attached and run into the car. Notice how it goes to the left around the rear carby. And the 2 above are just angle shots of it installed. Also to install it I obtained a old KE1X thermostat housing and a KE30 top out let. The reason for the old body was it has one hole for the valve at M16 X 1.5 thread and no second hole for pollution gear and on the left hand side no pipe for heater hose. Looks neater using it for rego purposes. So while I had them off I cleaned them grind a few dags off chased all the threads on it and lapped all surfaces to mirror DEAD FLAT finish on a proper $40,000 lapping table at work got a pic of me holding one at home half way into lapping completion. MM SHINEY can assembly with out a gasket now and it wont leak but jut to be safe..LOL I used one. And notice in the top of the pic the vice marks YEP wasn't going to lap them out way to deep and they weren't on a sealing face so all good :) Pics below: Also one day I decided to run the car quickly around yard with out trying to rev it (oh I run a crap KE25 throttle cable so can't pass 3000RPM due to it being to long) just drop clutch 5K in KE15 on grass does double legged :) Was fun steering feels good in it to. Pic below. Well that is me for now more stuff has happened replaced some chrome a head light got new battery terminals got extractors. Now I need to get tires, car seat covers, paint fixed in places, and lower radiator pipe and a fan belt and we are ready for rego :) so close..but I'm broke so tires will have to wait..LOL Cheers Cameron

COUGH public forum COUGH..lol MMM well have to start using code names and take this to PM..LOL

With so much tread still there on the plugger how can this be..... HEHE green frogs remind me...How do you stop them being attracted ot the uber hot KE15 I own. They LOVE hiding in it walk past and the car is always crocking. Also Those rainbows can you walk up to yours and feed them? We have flocks at my join and own 3 and after a while you can just go pick up a wild one and feed it kinda cool saves going to krumbin (spelt wrong) on the gold coast. Oh and randomly My cookie: Cameron

UPDATES: Started on the interior now. The radio that came in the car came with was an after market tape deck the original owner stuffed into the dash poorly. And he fitted an after market roof mount Ariel. I have been hunting down now an early corolla original radio and found one :nervous: Not a KE1X one but the guy who sold it to me said it was out a KE1X and it has the fade mark from the dash face so it will do. But when installing it I decided to pull most of the center dash out to clean it up etc. So pulled choke out it had a broken lever so I replaced it with a NEW ke1X item much nicer now. Also the heater controls had snapped and were lose and floppy and heater cables screwed up etc So I did a full rebuild on this item. New cables, levers, bushes on the mount, repainted mount etc. Then I got to the radio surround. To fit the tape deck this had been cut up for the larger size :lol: So I hunted down an original un-cut one VERY NICE. Only 1 small crack so good nick still. Prob paid to much but I wanted the original look. So this was fitted with the new radio and the dash reassembled. So got all the above items installed and looking neat and tuned the radio to 4KQ of course and we were off |blink| Well pics below of the dash fixing: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...;hl=heater+ke15 Refer to link for controls rebuild and pics. Pic of radio :lol:

Hi, coln72 you didn't have trouble with your 5K valves springs because you got 77lbs springs in your 5K not 70lbs stock ones. Know why??? Well K-B, 3K-B both got 77lbs springs so they revved harder. Now 5K and 7K with hydraulic lifters also got 77lbs springs as hydros needed more pressure. Got thsi solid fact from the Toyota factory 5K rebuild book. So if you want on stock 5K springs can run big lift if there not well worn/ dead. But for the sake of it $100 you will have new valve springs nice tight ones and wont have to worry. But if you want stock springs that are harder than normal get 3k-B ones or 7K or 5K ones :D Cameron

Did you glass bead that gear box or use oxide? As it came up really GOOD. cameron

HEHEH my silly fault..LOL Thought that was a shot glass holding it up upon first look..LOL

Hi, What brand pistons and rings are they using I am interested to know this? And below maybe a few other prices you might consider: Also flywheel get it faced cheap and worth it But are you planning on taking some weight off it or anything? Also new timing chain dual row I think is about $100 for a really nice alloy machine pulley and chain set for a K motor adjustable and that was a roller masters brand I think when I was last looking so at the most budget about $100 for a fancy timing chain set Crank. Will it get ground and new bearings? And my engine builder I know well and he said if I can clean all the parts I can my self. And if I want take off casting burs in the block and get old welsh plugs out and totally strip everything. He said it will save him time as he then has to just machine and assemble stuff. So also are you planning to do this to save labor cost or are they dismantling for you? As these days labor is the real killer for anything so what you can do your self int eh way of cleaning saves them and well you save a greater amount of cash and then can spend that on better internal parts. Also valve springs? Will need new ones with a new cam grind. Original K motor springs I think Toyota still make 77lbs KE15 had them stock revved up to 7500 RPM while other K motor with 70lbs springs revved to 6500 RPM so get the K-B sprinter motor valve springs should be cheap and better for you. But shop around I guess. Cheers Cameron

NICE. Did you grind that your self from an original key? If so make a small hole below the beer opening part so you can have it on key ring also and open beer at same time but UBER cool makes me wanna try it with a spare key I have..LOL Cameron

OFFICIAL teddy I got my dancing shoes on hair colored fluro blue ready to rock out int he city at the HOT LIES show same night as this dinner party/swap meet. So I am officially NOT ATTENDING so you can update page one. Hope you all have a UBER awesome night as I know I will :cool: Cameron

WOW Pacsker Very nice car. I noticed you don't have a tacho...but a factory vaccume gauge in the dash VERY NICE there great for tuning and your has a factory one AWESOME. Cameron

Front guards look fairly ok in your pics. What is wrong with them? Cameron

Hi, How was your measurement taken raven for the 9mm block wall? Did you also measure actual wall thickness? Can be done from cylinder one I polished up the side of it through the water pump hole and put a caliper on the out side of cylinder one through the hole and other side of caliper in bore to get actuall wall thickness at the front. I think if you boring it out this will be a better measurement as you will know the wall thickness of a single cylinder better. Also I forget the measurement was awhile since I did it. Cameron

Hi, If the trigger line draws BUGGER all current well we can rule out pulling to much. Now 4V at one end...Umm I dare say as it gets hot resistance increases and the coil drops lower than 4V power supply and umm yeah can't make a spark. I dare say your just running out of spark. BR can just die so try replacing one with a spare I'm sure you have in the shed give that a shot. As 4V is very low and as stuff gets hotter resistance goes up this will affect it the hotter it gets it starts getting hotter faster bad cycle so just a new BR should do it. Also cranking power will drop in a battery think mine drops to 10V. So if the BR has 4volts coming out when car is stoped and battery is making 12V. If your say drops to 10V the coil might only then get 2V. can't even run a light bulb on that. And a corolla in good tune manuals say should be able to throw a 6mm spark whne the plug is out the motor so with 2V and stock system I can't see this happening so yeah jsut a new BR I think will solve your issues. All my Toyota manuals confirm all ballast resistors are the same. So any corolla KE one at reco should work KE1X to 7X. But just out of interest some KE rollas came with a built in resistor in the coil. They run less resistance than an external BR and the coil has 3 terminals on the top. Listed to be in 5K vans and in the TE47 and the more rare KE3X range we didn't get. Just though id add that useless fact.

EASY.. 5K block 3K head means you prob to something like Datto A12 push rods in it :sob: My set were on my desk as of 3 days ago..LOL Now in boot of car so can't measure length BUT datto rod is the know one to use when running solid chev lifters with 3K head. But if the chev lifters are hydro means you got a push rod the length of a datto A12 rod but it will be ball to ball not ball to cup like a A12 rod is. So you will have to look in part books for one length of datto rod that is ball to ball but if there solids id put my money on being A12 items. Got a pic of broken ones? As I felt datto rods were chunky in size that explains your 8mm measurement of them..lol Cameron

Sounds like the one below: Think there $5 from super cheap had mine on the shelf this one will suit KE1X

I have noticed google to. I think it is there as a bit of a program running site logs it on and lets google serch it. That is what I think it is could be way off mark don't really dabble much in computer stuff..lol

MM battery seems OK. What voltage does it drop to while cranking? Also resistance of the standard Toyota BR on coil is 1.1 - 1.3 OHMS. So lets use V=IR Coil runs at * volts and resistance is 1.3 ohms well use. 8=I * 1.3 8 / 1.3=I I= 6.154 amps. Now lets use 12 volts: 12=I * 1.3 12/1.3 = I I= 9.231 amps. Can see the amp load on the wire is up by half 50% nearly. So if the fuel pump some how is wanting to use 12 volts it will draw that many amps. Through the resistor to get it. Now that is for the coil at 12V so the pump (VL ones I have draw 4 - 6 amps usually) so say you dray 6 amps for pump (yes I know yours is a small carby one but this is a demo) You could add 6 amps for pump + 9.2 for coil when it gets 12V so 15.2 amps it will draw. The resistor is meant ot run at 8V and 6.1 amps so your more than double amp load and volts IF the pump is some how drawing its power through it or the relay trigger is drawing 12 volts. This could explain heat. Now I'm no guru at this but I kinda see that. Maybe if your multimeter showed nothing at the coil you blew a fuse? If so id say amp draw to high move pump wire. But is VERY odd it would be this as well a relay is in place this should prevent this. Now those calculations above are how I kinda see it and a demo rought not accurate apart from resistance of a stock BR go it out of a manual. So try priming carby disconnect fuel pump check fuses. If it runs Id say just to be safe find another circuit to run the pump as nothing worse than just having car die for no reason in traffic. Cheers Cameron

Seems unlikely as relays draw BUGGER all amps but if the resistor is getting MEGGA hot its resistance will increase. If it was to increase enough Id imagine the power out put will drop and possibly the realy will switch off then the fuel pump stops. When the car dies can you feel the pump running if the key is still on the on position? And is it a sudden stop or slow kinda out of fuel stop? Also from what I believe the KE30 ignition system runs off 8V if you get the power from one side of the resistor possibly the relay is getting 8V and it wants 12 so it will pull more amps to get it then heat will increase then resistance will also. And is that a stock coil or a GT40 type of performance coil? And do you run a tacho? When the car dies if there is no spark tacho will read 0. If tacho reads most likely there is still spark so could be the fuel pump again so see what it reads when it next dies. And just to share the experience a few weeks back going down the high way my KE30 jsut dies. oil light still off and charge off so looked at tacho reading 0. Straight away I new it was my earth wire on my dizzy. I seem to always have trouble with this slipping off. But one night on the side of the road I put the wire on when this happened and cranked it up. I ended up cracking the ceramic block thing the wire pokes through the dizzy in and the wire was shorting through the crack took for ever to find the hair line crack so if car dies while driving down the road so the motor is spinning if the tacho reads 0 means you are losing spark so the BR might not be able to handle the load so try to wire the relay into another live wire maybe like a thermo fan one if you have a thermo. Cheers Cameron Cheers Cameron

Lifter clip is a standard circlip try the local nuts and bolts shop they will have on e on the shelf BUT if they don't go to a wrecker get a holden hydro lifter ones in my dads car look 100% same as 5K stock ones so those circlips might fit. Now for push rods Xany is right on the hydro ones. Also 5K got different push rods yes. Some were flat top others dished piston this did make a difference and also solid or hydro lifter. So can you tell us what lifters you run, type of rocker gear you run, length of non broken push rods, piston type flat or dished etc? This will help HEAPS here. Cheers Cameron

I heard he bought that sprinter him self NEW :hmm: I SO WANT..lol

HAPPY BIRTHDAY SLED GOD :hmm:

^^ IS the car Mad rollers turbo 5K ke10? Cameron

Hi, THanks HEAPS Scott. :jamie: I tried it for size my bluetooth GPS slides in like a glove so stops it rolling around the car so I can still put my maps in it..LOL Interesting. I initially though if it was not after market and maybe a pen holder or something but maps seem more accurate and good to know it is factory. Cheers Cameron

one more thing WHY build a 900m high building in Dubi...on a good day can't see that far..lol And when it blows wind lets say walking out side is like being rubbed with sand paper..lol Cameron