SM Hunter

Ahhh thanks alot! so i could either block it off or put the PCV down there and ditch the catch?

Okay, yeah iv been doing some carbs on motorbikes i know how a overflow outlet works :) but i don't think its jammed since gas is commin out from both :) so its either supposed to be like this or I'm running to high pressure, I'm thinking for a start I'm going to add clear hoses into can and see how much is coming out when I'm driving, then if its WAY to much I'm running to much pressure, then i MAY be able to block them of and the carbs MAY not overflow.. but i think blocking them leads to failture.. so the best way would be to get a lower PSI pump / or a fuel regulator and a return line.. ill think about it for some days and research a bit about the carbs :) anyways made a throttle wire holder the red ones are the return lines, yellow one i don't know? anyone knows? and hooked up my tacho, i need some dubble sided tape , i don't want to put screws thourgh my steering column cover :) going to town with some friends tomorow so ill be buying transmition oil and anti freeze :) had a friend over the other day, what a beauty! we painted the rims white because they where black and rusty :) and yeah Altezzaclub its running 1 Stormberg SU carb ;) runs overrated!

wondering how to do the plumming for the overflow/retrun lines on the carbs... should i just block them off or plum them back to the tank? how do i get a hose back to the tank? pluming it back before pump is a bad idea since the pump will draw air... and after the pump is also a bad idea since the pressure in the carbs would be to hight? atleast that explains the fuel ecconomy when i had the carbs in the carina... 4L/10km ish... How have you guys done your fuel retrun lines?

No water, no transmition oil, no fuel return line... just a quick start to make sure its running :D

yeah i had comression, valves is sorted, forced dad to take a trip to the garage after a bit he found out the ignition breaker points where a bit to large... its now runing :D

Hey, i have just rebuilt the head and swapped the cam in my KE20.. it wont even try to fire, its just dead so I'm thinking ignition How do you set the ignition after a Rebuild? iv been trying to set it based on cylinder No.1 ... when the inlet valve goes down and then up again, then the mark on the cam cover and crank almost line up and i get a spark... ( it sparks between 5-10 degreess before tdc..) what could be wrong? I'm thinking this is correct but i don't know a damn shi* about ignition systems

Okay, thanks! ;) Head is back! New lifters going in! Pushrods all valves in Torque is important Now i need to weld 2 holes in the manifolds, then bolt them on, bolt on the carbs, the gearbox and the igintion and I'm done!

ohh and one last question, my new headgasket is missing a few holes (2-3 water holes) should i just make them myself?

Thanks Tojo! yeah marius, I have talked to Morten, but i can't not afford his rims :( i need something cheap! anyways Cam time! Not much left here VS35 valve springs vs orginal swapped this seal before i bolted the cover to the motor Heatwrapped the exhaust Made theese flat since the guy how is machining my head could not mount them in his milling bench :)

Thanks, This suspention thing just got a bit too costy for me... ill make it drivable then wait til the summer and see if I'v got more money... worked all Christmas to afford the engine mod so I'm kind of broke now... and i still don't know if i need to buy a new clutch, maybe iv ruined the engine and have to buy a new one... ? who knows.. tried fitting Volvo 145 Rear springs at the front of the Corolla yesterday... did not work as planned, the car was still soft and WAY to high... so I'm going back to the Chopped original springs for now... iv got a parts car that ill be building and testing suspention on.. If i get enough money ill try finding TE27 Steering rods and get some AE86 strus then buy ebay weld on kit for like 150$.. :) cheapest and best way with the most Shock possibiletis :) Ill rather use some cash on wheels than suspention for now... i NEED new rims for it! the Teta 13" wheels does not cut it! anyone knows the minimum hub hole the rims can have on a KE20? :)

Thanks alot! searched a bit but could not find any part number for anything that fits the KE20 struts... even found out a norwegian company has 60% off bilstein products! i would guess upside down dampers would be quiet expencive... i don't want to mess with the LCA's so ill start looking for cambertops aswell! anything Toyota fits? Gas is the way to go? not twin tube? i don't know anything about shocks.. as you may have understood i really don't know a shit about anything :P i'v just learned from my own experience... iv tried pushing the front end of a Rally Volvo down once.. it felt like it was on jack stands... this is all because of stiff shocks and not stiff springs? soo i can use the orginal springs if i get a propper set of shocks? EDIT: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-COROLLA-70-75-Monroe-GT-Gas-Shock-Absorber-Cartridge-Front-KE20-KE25-/121029933031

yet another Buut time to get serius Cam is supposed to arrive monday :) I neeed new spings, are the king 30mm low spings stiff? i want really stiff springs.. any idea? whats the diameter of the orignal springs? 130mm? anyways took my springs out and added my lowering blocks in the rear.. new rims would have been nice aswell, but there is no 4x110 rims here..

I'm suprised what a boring Friday night can lead to!

The ports and the head match like 99% :) ill take a further look when i get the head back :) anyways, here is a video of some footage i had from the summer, when it had the orginal engine... revs pretty high, I'v read that the orignal valve springs makes the valves float at about 6,5k in my ears this sounds like more than 6,500 ? I'm impressed by this litttle 1,166, pulls strong and revs high from factory!

I'll take a look for the plug next time in in the garage :) My plates have arrived! Need to run a vacum to the catch, just popped a filter on it for the looks for now :) Brought the head and manifolds home, dad is going to drop them off at a local shop for machining :) guessing 1mm will do it , yeah i know you guys are telling me to meassure but .. if its to high/the head have been machined before, then ill have a HIGH comression engine--> more hp!

Allen plugs? do you mean the "plugs" on the side where you can pun in a block warmer for the winter? Great to see you back! how many hours do you guys use to swap in a 4Age in a k-series? annyways sorry for not beeing on here but I'v had a lot to do lately, worked from chrismas day til school started... :( got my cone filters while beeing away Crappy phone pic of the filters installed, had to cut the silicone hoses 20mm ish

X-mas came early New lifters Trying to get the block clean New ignition system, Condensator, distributor cap, Rotor, plug leads and breaker points! put everything together fast, no bolts etc just for storing through x mas since I'm working..

Feel free to drop by ;) I live in Vang in Valdres, a bit further east than flora :) ahhh your can't take the brakes from a ae86 and then put a 4age in either?

Good to see some fellow young scandinavians on here! looking good! the car is wonderfull and the rims will fit it ! I'll be following this for sure! :D whats done to the engine apart from the Huge cam? I'm building a 3k myself so I'm kind of curius... your engine got theese valves with the stem seal on top of the retainer ? :)

Hoping the Retainer sits high enough to not make the springs coil bind aswell, thinking om going for a catch tank, my brother got one left over, then i need to get a AFM aswell.. I'm working 24/7 between xmas and new year so can't get anything done after xmas evning :(

Talked to a guy now, i will end up with 0.15mm clerance between the guide and the retainer, he advised me to machine down the guids like 1.5mm to get some more clearance, is this a good idea? my first though was to machine down the retainers but then he suggested the guides, i don't know whats a better idea?

Tojo2 solved the problem for me :) I mixed CAM lift and VALVE lift :) the max cam lift i can have seems to be 7.5mm before the retainer hits the guide, my cam is has 7.4mm lift :) i think the original is 6mm :)

you guys really sure my head can cope with a 10.96mm lift cam? cause i have theese stupid valves where the retainer sits in the second notch... the upper notch got a rubber ring that i don't see the point off...? soo i cleaned the rocker stuff and put it on the head Closed the valve, adjusted the rocker so it sat tight on the valve, then dropped the valve to the max ( till the retainer hit the guide, as shown in pic) and meassured the distance the rocker moved (where the pushrod hits it) and it moved 7,5mm... the cam can only have 7,5mm lift... ? i Just dotn get this?? orginal lift on a 4k is 9.0mm ec and 8.5mm in... what the f***? and my cam is 10.96mm? Have i missunderstood the meaning of lift? in other words the pushrod can MAXIMUM move 7,5mm upwards from a closed valve till the retainer hits the guide...? This is lift right? the blue distance? or is it the red or blue together?

Thanks, yeah i need hose clamps there but i need to cut the hoses cause they are touching eachother so i can't fit a hose clamp there... ahh Thanks for the brace tip, ill try to make something to hold the carbs! anyways, my new cam has 280 durations and 0.431" lift... you guys think my stupid early 3k valve stems will allow that? i trired fitting some valve stem seals but i think the clearanse is too small... but will 0.431" lift be too much for this head? iv orderd stiffer springs but I'm worried about the retainers going to far down... ? shimmed my oil pump 3mm :) also orderd some new stuff from Rockauto :) -New lifters -New distributor cap -New condensator -New rotor -New plug leads -new braker points -new oil filter -new gasket for sump and cam cover

Cam is sent to england :) i did choose the T125 :) Cleaned up the shop :) Nice angle ouch pressure washed don't want the regulator here testfitting can't get bored of watching thees test fitting