tojo2

http://www.technotoytuning.com/faq/#RCA Explains it better than I can

A tip for next time : I usually put bearings and seals in the freezer for a few houres before I fit them. Makes them slightly smaler and easyer to fit

Yes. The ones for k-series have a diode conected internally accros the relay coil. don't know about a- series Relay part no. for k is 85925-12910

I think there is only one called j-b weld. http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

I would have drilled out an old one and put in the new using j-b weld. http://jbweld.net/index.php It`s not conductive and takes 600 deg F. Realy good multi purpose stuff. This to make sure you have the right caracteristics of the thermistor.

Those are not for ke30. Maybe #e7# series.

http://www.bilstein.com/mistore/bindex.php?company_id=100484

Bilstein is a good brand . Like most other brands they have different types of shocks to suit different purposes. don't think they have a listing for ke30 or aw11 though. Comparing different shock brands is hard to do in a fair way. If your car is lowered, I`d go for something shorter than stock .

Bought some kyb excel g 363018 a couple of months ago. :D Had to wait a while for them.

Here`s a good read on the subject: http://hometown.aol.com/dvandrews/timing.htm

1zz-fe with adaptorplate for r to w bellh. http://www.locost7.info/mirror/1zzfe_adaptor.php I`ve got a 1,6 vertion of this engine in my 01 corolla (3zz-fe) It feels stronger than specs suggest. Especially 4000+ revs. and can be driven very economically. (below 4000 revs ) I`d stay away from oldest ones though. Some get oil consumption issues , burned rings. Have read its due to cooling galleries?? Toyota extended warranty on them to 7 years. They change the hole block on the ones that get issues

The brown wire that you got going to the coil minus side, is that to the pump minus ? If so remove it form coil and ground it to car body instead. See how you go. One of the wires Taz Rx mentioned should give 12v while cranking to ensure strong start spark. This should remain connected on coil +. I'm guessing red one. don't know about the other one . Could possibly be for factory tacho - coil. Try tracing . Anything else hooked up to coil that doesnt belong there ?

Normaly not a fan of white car- black hood but Demuirs 35 realy suits it. This was the way to go in the 80s:

Yeah. Would be quick and sensible to check that out :y:

Have you had the shifter out of the box ?

http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Stud_Pattern

Measure remaining cc displacement of combustion chamber

Even if its only 2mm difference, it changes the position of the gear box. Have seen people have had issues with contact between bellhousing and pressureplate due to this. Thickness of sandwich plate does not influence how far starter gearwheel meshes into flywheel gear ring as starter and flywheel remain in same pos. to one another. I know I suck at explaining stuff so anyone else than myself understand what I mean :hmm: , but I try to be clear

I belive it would affect cranking if plate is to thin :pressureplate comes in contact with bellhousing, wrong pos. of starter and inputshaft.

1 Are you loosing oil or water, white or blue smoke? 2 Probably due to whatever you are burning. Only when cold? 3 Gear or engine oil ? Smell the difference

Not saying it is, but could be wrong thickness of sandwich plate between eng. and gearbox.

remove plugs and turn by hand. any resistance? compare with your other engine. What fly wheel are you using?

Try to measure battery voltage while cranking.

The t50 (if its 5speed) is a small bearing-20spline out,- forward shifter pos.- hydraulic clutch set upp, most likely like you wrote, from a ta22. The w40 steel box can be moded to suit a k engine by using a K-liteace bellhousing++

Makes sense since my 4k heads are for flat top pistons and the 5k is dished. Havent come across a dished 4k yet. Do the dished 4 and 5k heads have the same cc combustion chambers?