bLinded_

Yeah Corona hubs will push rims out more. Hell, the flares on mine were needed to cover 15x7 -2 rims and they only just fit under with standard KE70 LCAs and camber tops set to near max. Though, you may be okay with the corona arms with your wheels as they don't look to be as lower offset as mine, so hopefully they will be okay. Did you get the 2 spot callipers for the XT130?

I would probably try on AE86DC as 90% of the guys on there run massive wheels with low offsets there. I think rear whould fit fine with a small flare, though fronts will need a bit of work done to fit them.

:y:

Shattered to see the rim like that! At least from first impressions, it looks repairable, so hopefully you can get it sorted with no fuss. And, glad to hear it happened on a track and not a gutter :y:

Going off what Falken_Ke30 said regarding struts, Not ALL XT130's had twin piston callipers. Some are a singe piston Girlock calliper whilst the 2 pot ones are Sumitomo brand. The 2 spots do stop well on a KE70 though, and for the price, they are a great upgrade. 260mm solid disc for them too, vs 234mm for AE86 (iirc) If you go jap ae86 brakes though, they are vented which is obviously going to be better if you plan on track days or extended periods of hard braking, but you will also pay a hell of a lot more for jap gear. :? And I could be wrong, but I am fairly certain that XT130 struts are the same length as AE86 ones as I run AE86 KYB inserts in my Corona struts, and they didn't require any spacing at all. Was a perfect fit. ;) Maybe someone else could confirm this, but as far as I knew, the only major difference between XT and AE86 struts was that the Corona strut has the larger type stub axle. But yeah he is on the money about them being good bang for buck ;) The puplre looks really good too, such a different change from the usual red, white or beige. Top photo of it behind the Honda? looks awesome. I think the wheels suit it to a tee. Maybe some Work equip 01's in the future would set it off :) Anyway, I like how the car is going, minus the interior, but hey, each to their own so nothing wrong with that :)

Haha cheers guys. ;) Yeah the time and effort he has put toward helping me with my car is just awesome. Really couldn't do it (as good) by my self so yeah good to have him always help even when half the the time he is against what I am doing ;) As for the gun bit, it may not be perfect, but f@$k me, he is a jack of all trades. Has experienced just about everything in his time, yet still churns out top notch results even 30 years later. I'm sure he'd love to help do others but being 600kms away makes it a little inconvenient to say the least :? Have them bogged up and sanded smooth so paint tomorrow IF I finish at a reasonable time.

I started on them....Got the inner lip flattened and started to fold the roll out, then my old man came in to "show me" what to do... Once he had the dolly and hammer in his hands, he didn't want to put them down ;) So he basically did the hard part in getting the shape perfect. He near got them good enough to just paint over w/out bogging them. Very impressed with his work I must say ;) Put some bog on them today and sanded it back to get rid of any small imperfections with the metal, but have run out of time to get any paint on them. Will do that tomorrow with a bit of luck. But yeah should be good when they are painted up again. No more scrubbing :?

Flared guards finally. Got heaps of room there now which is good. Going to paint them up tomorrow hopefully.

Was clearly doubt about the decision, as highlighted by the 8 or so replays. Thus, benefit of the doubt should have been awarded resulting in a NSW try. Which then would have changed the outcome of the game dramatically. Going on with the commercial radio thing. I listen to TrippleJ when I choose to listen to the radio, though at work the other guys have the local commercial station on, and the thing that annoys me the most is that when they actually have a decent song on (ie one that is not musically retarded) such as Cherry Pie :bash: ,Sweet Child Of Mine, Enter Sandman etc they always edit out 90% of the solo's. It's like they are just dumbing down the song to suit the people who can't appreciate anything other than some constant drum beat over and over again.

Awesome, thanks for that info Coln. Regretting not doing it earlier when I was building the engine, but I guess it can't hurt to find out about it from someone in town now.

I'm guessing you had upped the compression in your 5K(s) Coln72, just out of interest, how much did you have taken off the head and what CR was it at? Considering having a small amount taken off mine while my car is off the road at the moment. Just like to know how much is enough to take off :bash:

I could take the Chaser off your hands if you don't have time for it :rolla:

Roo's right on with the rims. With an 80's corolla you will probably get better attention with a nice set of 14 or 15" rims than some oversized, overweight, 16+ wheels. Just hang off for a bit longer and save some coin. The price for import rims will fall when the dollar picks up. I previously got a pair of 15x8.5 ssr mesh from Japland to my door for $430. Big rims don't work on little cars and little wheel arches IMO. Sure on a bigger car they work, but yeah, stay <15" :dance: And good move on the engine though. Should be good when it is in.

Haha, yeah well, that rules out that one then :dance: And I do agree with you about using the choke. I've never had one either.

May be a long shot, but, with my sisters old Ke35/55/something, the choke used to stick "on" when you used it. So if you pulled the choke "on" and then put it "off", the butterflies still were closed and would cause it to over fuel and randomly stall at traffic lights/stopping. Chances are that it will be something else, but I just thought, being colder weather and all now, chances are that you may have started using the choke. I thought that a sticking n+s would more affect the car once it is turned off, and then tried to start up again as it would cause fuel to continue to run into the manifold when the engine is off and thus flood it when you try and restart it. I could be way off here though :dance: Hopefully someone else will be able to help.

Not the stock carb. Looks to be a 32/36 DGAV Weber. There should be a stamp somewhere at the base of the carbie that will tell you exactly what it is. Bang for buck with a 4K....None. K series are fun, but if you are after performance, just got back to a GE. Look up How to build a Tough K motor in the FAQ if you want an idea of what that involves.

I use a 104 in my 5K. Reason being, I knew other people who used the same grind with good results (Medicine_Man etc) so I went with something tried and proven. I have twin 40mm Dellortos and a basic 4-1 extractor to 2" exhaust on the engine, and it pulls really well. Makes 7000rpm easily, and would keep going if you choose to.

Yeah that's what I was guessing too as my 32/36 had that sort of linkage as it was originally from a 1600. I always knew it as a mechanical linkage, as opposed to a cable pull. Probably have the wrong term for it though.

SRS 55

This is not me. It is just someone who looks like me. Old photo :D

Umm no idea what he means by ball and joint, maybe mechanical? Id say cable would be the weapon of choice, as the standard KE setup is a cable throttle. As long as there is a way to balance the carbies then you should be okay. I use a modified redline linkage kit on mine.

Haha yeah I wasn't sure if they were just pulled or had a bit of angle grinder love on them. :cool: I might just try pry them out or something much like yours, and hope for the best. There's some other rubbing going on under there to sort out aswell... But yeah I Have 86 tops too but yet to have a proper wheel alignment done so no idea how much caster has been lost. Guard cutting is last resort :cool:

That is exactly what I did, though worded a thousand times better. OP, Mine idles fine, starts first go, even in this colder weather (no choke) and loves to rev. Though each engine is going to be different and depending on your carbs, there will be more work. The model of Dellortos I have are a fixed air bleed size, which were too large for a 1.5 (came from a 2L Alfa). The Tuner needed to machine and press in some tiny nylon reducers to correct this, which cost time and money. DCOE's though from what I can gather are part of the main jet assembly and are easy to change around. Not really an expert on them, hence why I got them set up by someone who knows more about it than me. I say good luck if you intend of doing it yourself, as it will be a prick of a job for the everyday backyarder. :fuzz: But, when they are on, it is wellllllll worth it. Induction :D

Looks bloody nice man! Definitely good choice on the new wheels, fit perfectly. :D Just wondering how you went with clearance at the bottom of the front wheel arches (Strategically placed red circle). I have like 3 mm clearance when I turn and that is with little caster. Was wondering if you cut them to allow the max caster adjustment with out and rubbing. Just with my new shoes I am having a fair bit of trouble with scrubbing and trying to find out what to do about it :fuzz: Also, I think leave height as it is at the moment. Any lower will probably be a pain in the arse and cause (more) 5-0 attention. Though, either way, still will look tops.

Had the same problem with my twin manifold and extractors. Flange was thicker on the intake so I machined it down where the studs came through to the same thickness as the exhaust flange. Manifold was a Redline one as well, extractors unknown. IIRC my idle jets are 45 Air jets: 150 Mains: 135 Chokes: 36mm This is for a mild 5K though. Unless you have prior experience with side draughts (twin), you will need someone to correctly set them up for you, which will be little to no change from $1k.