bLinded_

Good ol' hump day! Even better as I had Monday off :)

1) Go to wreckers 2) Take complete struts, hubs and lower control arm from Corona 3) Unbolt *E7* gear 4) Replace with Corona gear 5) Get wheel alignment done 6) Enjoy It is pretty much that simple, but you will just need to replace the corona strut top with the KE/AE one so it obviously canbolt into the strut tower. You may also have to just get some new brake lines made up as from what I remember, the corona 2 spot Sumitomo caliper uses a different fitting to the Girlock KE/AE calipers.

Done and I like. Cheap as compared to AE86 gear, larger stub axle for I guess more strength, large brakes and 2 spot calipers straight up (Also makes the P/H/C upgrade 1/3 done), large diameter strut tube allowing for decent range of shocks (as opposed to KE70 strut).

Reg. XT130 front end in a KE70, All will bolt in, but you will need to swap the Corona strut top to the KE70 one. (Or aftermarket camber plates). I also am led to believe that there are 2 types of calipers from the XT130, one being a single piston, and one being a double. The only real problem with this front setup is that the Corona steering arm is LONG and thus you will have stuff all lock. This can be helped by replacing the steering arm with a shorter one, ie AE86 Power Steering arm, but because the two have a different offset in relation to the ball joint, the disc will foul on the end of the LCA. You may have to just persuade the LCA a little for it to work. Alternatively you can get the XT130 steering arms cut and shut, but unless it is a track only car, I do not recommend this for liability's sake incase of an accident.

Philbey, the old screw through the side of a cupboard into a drawer is the best haha! Can't believe I didn't mention that one before :D A few dots of glue around the drawer front also works ;) Another one that works well at work is wrapping some masking tape around the terminals of a cordless drill battery when they arn't looking, then jam it back into the drill.

One must also factor in the conditions of which the car is kept and/or driven around in :D

So far the ones we have done to guys are: - Skyhooks for hanging cupboards. - Striped paint - Left handed saw blade - Long 'wait'... (We got one dopey guy going for about 20minutes sending him between a few of us haha) - Box of grinding sparks

Mates 260z for me. Was quite a few years ago now, but certain we hit 190km/h in it. Other than that, probably my car haha. 5th gear 5000rpm, what ever that works out to be...speedo may or may not work :hmm:

Spend the money on the Redline Kit. I terms of the setting up twin side drafts, an extra $100 spent on linkages is bugger all in the scheme of things. Do it once, and do it right :hmm:

<3

Relax mate, I am not having a go at your email address! I am talking about the people who use that sort of sms shorthand when asking question/selling things etc. They are the things which I was getting at with the lack of effort. It is a forum and you have as much time in the world as you need to type, so if they just spent 5 minutes extra to make it easier for everyone else to read/comprehend their threads wouldn't be getting closed etc. I guess its a bit of courtesy.

Yeah true, but I was more referring to da stuff like what n all dat.

Bad spelling and general disregard to any sort of punctuation makes my head hurt. Seriously, no matter how hard a word is to spell, or bad you may be a spelling, firefox has a built in spell checker. It is not f@$king hard to use it. It may be a car forum, but like most people have said, no-one wants to read a big chunk of text that make no sense until you read it 3 times over. I guess it is a reflection of the effort you spend writing something to the effort of response you get.

Hoshino Impul Mesh 15 x 7 -5 Fronts and 15 x 7.5 +2 Rear.

6

I think I first heard someone say this on here actually :D "When in doubt, use a hammer. The bigger the doubt, the bigger the hammer"

Also, if you don't mind searching, use Import Monster to locate wheels, then copy the Yahoo Japan link and give it to someone like Streeter or Aaron from Shakotan Garage to bid/buy them for you.

Lots of measuremets here!

FWIW: 14 x 8 -6 on the rear, obviously no tyres though. Guards are not flared, but have been 'pulled' out about 5mm. I'd imagine a +/- 0 offset would sit a fraction bit more in that that on a standard guard. You would NEED to have the inner lips of the guards folded/rolled up, but other than that I'd say you could get them to fit w/o massive flaring etc.

Also, most 32/36's I have seen have a mechanical throttle linkage, as opposed to a cable pull. You may need to make your own linkage for the throttle cable to attach to if this is the case. I had to do this with mine a few years back, but, with a welder and the throttle wheel from a stock Aisan carb, it was pretty easy :P I would post up pictures of it, but I honestly can't find them anywhere at all!

This is slightly OT, but anyway: Can anyone comment on the strength and quality of a 20year old 'Jap' rim compared to that of a new 'inferior' wheel? Not trying to start a shitfight, but more so out of my interest as I hear ALOT of people always say that the 'Jap' rim is stronger and such. Just wondering how a 20 year old rim after all the stresses of driving over that time would compare to a new Rota or the likes. And back on topic now: I saw go with what ever wheels you are happy with, as modifying a car should be about pleasing yourself, not everyone else. I like meshies, so I got some, also as they were a great price. But, ultimately I have always loved Watanabes more, so with alot of patience and looking on Yahoo Japan, got some for about the same you would pay for cheap 'copy' wheels. ETTO !