philbey

Yeh, basically an old (40 years!) tacho will have issues with the signal from an electronic dizzy, but I haven't actually tried it. Incidentally I'm having trouble with my VDO, that might be a resistor thing though. I was just wondering if some of the home-scientist types had come up with a fix on a corolla item or similar. Should be a reasonably straight forward fix. I'll whack my Sprinter dash in and rewire it and see what I get.....

Incidentally, I did pull more than 50.... 68.8 to be exact! Just got a call from the Dyno guys then!!

Ok, got the Uniflow air filter into the car. I got a custom 36mm tall item, they can do any height you want. I drilled the baseplate and fitted it up. I was considering offsetting it upward but I don't think it would have made that much difference. The actual body of the filter doesn't touch the strut tower but the foam is squished against it in one spot. No noticeable performance issues. Its got a main element and then there's a "sock" that pulls over the whole assembly, really easy to remove and clean. Quite impressed with it overall, and it's about the only thing that will fit in a KE1x with non uprighted motor! Any bigger and it's a no go. Car is at the Dyno now, they've given me some figures but I'll wait til they finish before I quote anything!

Frame's all welded and back in my possesion. I'll get some pics and post em up tonight....

Yeh, like all front seals, they are to keep oil in just as much as shit out When they're knackered, you get oil coming out. Usually when the car is shut off, as it cools all the hot oil coming back down out of the galleries will run straight out of a bad front seal. A particularly bad one will drop 1/2 a cup of oil in 15 minutes!

+1 for checking the coil. They do shit themselves, so it might not like starting while she's still hot (perhaps reduced voltage through the coil when cranking?)

Awesome!

Guys I'm not sure if I will have a problem or not, but from some discussion with the Auto Instruments repair guy, he reckons that old tacho dashes (KE10-11-16-18) will have trouble showing accurate readings on cars fitted with a later model Electronic dizzy. I've done quite a bit of googling but haven't found much more info on it. I figure that a few of you doing tach dash swaps must surely have encountered this issue. Any idea what circuitry and goodies I might need to get it working correct? I've found a couple of bits and pieces of reading but I'd like to hear what others have come across.

If you are rebuilding, get a set of new pistons. The ACL pistons have 9cc of dish, vs 22cc of the factory dish. This, combined with a serious head shave might bring your compression up to suitable levels.

It shouldn't be the seal, unless it's not seated correctly. If it makes that much noise, I'd be guessing that it's knackered anyway and you should be seeing lots of oil.... Screwdriver it out but take care not to score the faces of the engine block when you do it.

It shouldn't be the seal, unless it's not seated correctly. If it makes that much noise, I'd be guessing that it's knackered anyway and you should be seeing lots of oil.... Screwdriver it out but take care not to score the faces of the engine block when you do it.

I've booked my twin dellorto motor in at Blackwood dyno tune, although I haven't had it done yet, Rick there has been really helpful on the phone.

Some more progress being made.... I finally scored a rear wheel as well, just arrived in the mail. Basically the last major part I needed before it can all start being bolted up. One of the boys at work put me onto his mate, a pro welder. We did some tacking and measuring to check dimensions. I've left it with him to finish the rest of the welding. Frame set up on the bench to check measurements: First pass, tacking up the hardtail: And more welding. Note the casual, upside down torch technique: This guy makes it look simple!

No it's not a reamer, a ream is used to get high precision internal diameters on holes. The equipment you seek is called a Broach. Wikipedia has some pictures of a broach tool for splines. If you find a machine shop with the machine, you will also need to find the tooling to match the spline pattern of the studs. That is where you might find things getting expensive.

don't worry abbout the rubber in the pulley. It is used to dampen vibration in the motor and I think only 5K's come standard with them anyway. see if the pump changes anything. Keep us posted.

What do you mean by the water pump shaft shat itself as well? Are the seals leaking, or is it bent? Because if there's any chance it's bent then that's probably the cause of the noise. And yes, I was talking about the rubber in the balancer, not the front oil seal.

Lock the thread.

Why do you say it's noisy? There's no bearing on the pulleys, but some K engines have a pulley with a rubber section that might have thrashed out. Any parts shop should be able to help you with a water pump, no point putting in an old one.

True it was a good deal. I also meant to add that it's not uncommon to see Solexes sell for that sort of price, they don't seem to fetch as much as Dells and Webers.

No, neither of these options are going to be very easily acheived on a KE10 front. You have a leaf spring that runs through the crossmember and connects to each lower wishbone. Camber pins would shift the arms outwards and you may upset the leaf spring. Looking at the control arm, it would be hard to set it up with a threaded section without removing the leaf altogether. Strut tops are your best bet. Stewarts old corolla pages had some sketches on it, I even started modelling them up in CAD years ago. I'll see if I can find them tonight.

Yeh some minor updates. Took the frame down to a welder last week for him to take a look at. I'll head round his place this week and we'll get it jigged up and welded. I've also managed to get the last major bits and pieces, I bought a stock front end and spoked wheel, and a spoked drum rear wheel went in the post for me yesterday. Once the welding's done then there's not much stopping me! Pics shortly....

from the ATO: "All cheque and EFT payments will be made using a post code selection process that is randomly generated, ensuring all post codes are evenly distributed to each state and territory each night. For this reason and because of security concerns, we are not planning to publish a distribution schedule" In other words, random. I got mine 2 weeks ago.

It's done on randomly selected post code. from the ATO: "All cheque and EFT payments will be made using a post code selection process that is randomly generated, ensuring all post codes are evenly distributed to each state and territory each night. For this reason and because of security concerns, we are not planning to publish a distribution schedule"

Damn that thing is fierce! More details!

I wouldn't call it that good a price, they don't seem to go for that much anyway. My Dellortos set me back 300 bucks, jetted, with manifold.