philbey

Why do you want to know? PSI doesn't give you compression ratio if that's what you're getting at. MY 5K Runs ~200 PSI but the compression is about 11:1. That isn't a relationship though as the comp ratio is a Volumetric function.

The sidedraft manifolds come up for ~100 bucks or so on ebay. He was going to sell you a downdraft manifold? For a Single Downdraft? Sounds like he was going to sell you a stock one haha.

No, you can run a cam with hydros, the issue is mainly to do with lifter pump up.

Ella, does your car currently not rev past 6000, or do you choose not to rev it past that? I've never heard anyone on this site with anecdotal evidence of their hydraulic lifters actually causing problems. Only Colin and I recall some others pointing out they have never had issues with them. Seems to be a lot of theorists out there. I'm running hydros on mine, I'll keep it that way. I'll probably not rev past about 7k, although it seems to pull to 7 quite easily... (Tacho calibration?)

I was going to buy myself a wideband setup from Innovate before I started the build but never got round to it. I mentioned a basic narrowband setup to my mate a while ago, just for a crude indicator, but he shut down that "nah narrowband is shit, wont tell you anything". In hindsight I should have got a fitting welded to the headers while they were sitting collecting dust!

Its already been posted in the SA section.

You bet it is, cos its about the only one you can get! Last time I looked Offenhauser weren't makin em for 4k's haha. KE20Me is running a single sidedraft dellorto and if you check his ride thread he's making 45kW!

Yeh, they're tiny little weapons. 45KW, thats my benchmark! I got twice the carby so I should be able to top you haha! I took mine for another boot before it overheated again, it was definitely quicker without the toyoglide!! What did it cost for the rejetting?

Didn't get there in the end. I had the radiator cleaned out and slapped it back in. Took it for another run and it got hot again. I'm going to fiddle with the timing and also try a new shroud. Discussion on my overheating issues.

Not sure that's necessary quite yet, when I noticed the "blowback" the bonnet was open. Cheers for the suggestion though, maybe a drift style bonnet would look good on the wags! I don't agree with the theory of the fan itself blocking flow, It's an urban myth because the fan assembly blocks the flow regardless of which side its on, just like Jasons suggestion. But, the idea of shrouding a front fan doesn't sit nice with me as that really stops flow. KE30 radiators are quite a bit bigger as well last I looked, about 70mm wider? I have had a complete bullshit time finding a good fan to fit my water pump, it's a pump for a real early KE10 fan and none of the later plastic units come close to fitting. I might just bite the bullet and buy a later model waterpump if this continues. After a bit more thought and another test drive I reckon you're probably on the money Felix. Timing is likely to be too advanced, set at 12 degrees on idle with a stock dizzy. I did run 98 octane to try offset this, but I did forget that a lean mixture will cause it to run hot. I'll pull the plugs out for a look see. Jetting on these dells was set for a worked 3K, although it runs nice the whole reason it was going to the Dyno was to ascertain how good the setup was! Apologies to all you early posters, I should have made it clear that it's a fresh built motor. Brand new waterpump, brand new thermo, acid dipped block. I'm 100% there's no engine internal concerns like blown headgaskets (especially with 200PSI cylinder pressures!) as I've spent some time building the motor from scratch. I got a price on a 3 row core, 370 bucks, so I'm not keen on that option just yet. First step, back off the timing and up the mix. Second, I'll modify my rad support to let me pull it forward about 12mm. This may let me fit the Thermo behind with a shroud on it. It'll be damn tight though..... Failing that I'll get the recore. It was running warm when I drove it medium throttle. Once I really started flexing, thats when I pushed it to boil, which makes me suspect mix/timing even more....

Guys, I took my 5K for a burn yesterday and it got too hot. I got the radiator cleaned out (about 30 percent blocked) and today it still overheated, although it took longer and a much more energetic drive to do so. I've front mounted a davies craig thermo. I'm getting a lot of "blowback", lots of air bouncing off the radiator and pushing forwards. Yes, before you ask the fan is running in the correct direction. Has anyone ever seen a shroud on the front of a rad? I don't like the idea because you lose a lot of open road airflow, but in this case it will definitely improve the fans effectiveness. Any other ideas on how to get the temp down?

Datsun 260z's had an awesome little lamp with about a metre long lead on them so you could actually pull it out of the mount and use it like a torch!

says the guy who drives a car that takes its styling cues from a tissue box?

Just pull the tap right out and give it a cleanout.

Yeh, just don't mess with it. The cost of memebership to SCCSA + registering 4 cars (360 days of driving total) is still cheaper per year than registering one.

Its' a VDO with a calibration dial on it. I'll probaby whack in an MSD which have a tacho check function, I'll sort it out then. The dyno guys should be able to tell me if it's out of whack as well.

it will drop as low as you want' depends how many leaves you flip. flip the whole pack, see where that gets you to start with...... :dance:

Took it for a more thorough drive today before It goes to the dyno. Ended up boiling, so the rad's going to get pulled out and cleaned. Goes quite well, although it's pinging a bit in the top. I put premium in it as well but still pinging. 12 degree static timing, I might pull that back to 10 if it will idle right. I think the tacho needs a calibration, otherwise it revs to 7 grand very easily! Not sure yet. Pulls reasonably well, loud as hell. Some exhaust leak.

Yeh I pulled the sump out of mine and put it back in. Just undo the nuts on the engine mounts and you can jack the motor enough if you have to. Your biggest challenge is getting to the nuts above your sump extension - The easiest way for me was with a long extender on a ratchet from underneath, you won't be able to do that though.

Off topic guys.

Function, not form. Awesome. Go get a copy of Climbdance. If you ever get close to a Ferrari F40, you might even say some of their "bodykit" bits aren't that well made! (Gurney strip on the back edge)

Dude, i would call the DTEI and cancel that rego. Massively illegal.

I've kept my eye out for them for about 2 years, you definitely got a good deal!

Yeh do it man. I'm yet to get a shock when I discover how much back pain I get but I just dig the idea of building it from the ground up!

4k/5k units. Use the search button. Read the FAQ. It's a well covered topic.