philbey

Who you getting to tune it? I'm booked in at Blackwood Dyno to get a tune next friday, they have lots of skills with Dellortos apparently. I'll keep you posted how they go.

Wiper motor is obviously steel, you won't stop it rusting unless you clear coat it. Aluminium oxidises very easily, best way to keep it shiny is to just repolish it. Thermostats are zinc alloy, also oxidises very easily, you won't get a very good finish out of it anyway.

A good runner usually goes 400-500 bucks. I paid 100 each for my 2 5k's but each one was completely dismantled.

Maybe your flux capacitor is in need of an overhaul?

All you Dellorto owners... I thought I'd jst mention a little trick I found on my Dells when I started my car running. As mentioned^ the idle was high to start with, after a bit of investigation, I noticed an interesting little trick that you could use to crudely balance the carbs.... Firstly, my carbs were not set up with the correct idle screw arrangement, probably from using a generic aftermarket linkage kit. Dellorto tuning manuals etc recommend that you back off the throttle shaft balance screw all the way in the initial setup. What I found is that the return springs on my carbs pull the secondary carb butterflies back into place, so that it's fully closed etc. The spring pin on the shaft balance screw then overcomes the return springs and forces the Primary carb open slightly, creating the high idle. I was actually able to wind in the balance screw to the point where the butterflies on the primary carb were also fully closed which, in theory, should give you a fairly close balance. I then installed a small bracket to allow me to use the correct idle adjust screw. Might put this as a tip in the FAQ. TP.

Yeh ke 20 ones are not easy to get. The first one I got I trimmed off the 2 ends, but in hindsight I shouldn't have trimmed the pump end, just the radiator end. Felix, I looked again last night, I definitely need the spacers between the radiator and the support, my top tank only just clears the top cross brace. I ended up putting an 840mm fan belt on, I had to take the pump pulley off to do it, but it was well clear. Tight as, I will change to an 850 because I had no movement in the alternator! I'll probably ben the waterpump shaft haha. How does it go? I got in a couple of laps around the block but it's tuning time, It's a bit flat and sounds out of tune. I need to redo the timing, I timed it sans-tacho and then discovered it was idling ~1800-2200. Hence, I'm probably running too much retard at the moment. Also, carbs aren't balanced and after fiddling with the balance shafts and the bleed, this is likely out. Literature I've read says a lot of apparent problems with jetting and tune can often be due to the Balance being off. Exhaust is a bit tractorish, but the intake is also very noisy, likely due to the timing retard (too late, can hear ignition through the carbs??)

Probably a thrust bearing not a spigot bearing. When it engages with the pressure plate and starts spinning, if it's knackered it'll make a whirring noise that changes with engine speed.

Got it back together again. Took it for another drive, temperature stayed about half on the stock gauge (what the old motor used to sit at). I had to fab up an L shaped bracket to match up to the idle adjust screw. I think the linkages are Redline items, so they're a bit generic. My new bracket works a treat though. Fitted another bracket to mount the fuel pressure reg off the front of the manifold, bit agricultural but I'll clean it up. Scotty that channel I pinched off you has gone a long way! Now i just need to work on balancing the Carbs and making sure my timing's dialled in. I might get it dyno tuned once the carbs are balanced

Sweet jesus, nitrided crank is pretty serious; what did that cost you? Whats your engine build cost you so far?

Fantastic - I was going to get a set of bullets off the same guy, but I can't make my mind up!

yeh, thats why I said temp fix, ie if you need to drive it home/to the workshop etc.

I've got one as well.

Felix the gearbox crossmember clearance is perfect, couldn't believe the fit with these headers (go all the way past the crossmember!) There is a muffler behind the diff that hits on the rear spring rear eyelet bolt, thats about the only issue I have with it. Got a new rad hose and for the 3rd time a new lot of coolant. Shorter alternator belt should give me the clearance I need too.

It would be more Australian if it were a stubbie.

Yeh. Dads always get confused.

Thats the plan! Billet is poxy, modern rod builders have been going the same way as well.

Mate, where'd you get the bullets from, I've been planning on a set for mine as well. What size did you get?

He's dead wrong. Or maybe my old one as a custom job ha ha.

Just picked these bars up and they look nuts in the flesh. Pissed off though because I missed out on a wicked petrol tank on Ebay because I didn't get home in time.... Turns out the guy I bought the bars off is also planning on a project much like the one I'm building!

Nice. I bought mine a set of handlebars for my motorbike project!

Thrust bearing usually makes noise the other way around- Foot on clutch = Noisy, foot off clutch = quiet. If it's on deceleration it could be input shaft bearings etc, or some dodgy teeth. When you decelerate the loading changes and you end up with the opposite side of your gear teeth taking the load. Putting the clutch in stops the noise because the load is removed. Not sure of the specific problem, but the logic is pointing at gearbox internals.

Somwhere your circuit may be shorting to the body and drawing too much current. As a tempp fix you could stick a higher current fuse in there (10 instead of 5 etc) and I'd go looking for any spots where there's dodgy wiring connections or poor insulation.

I'll see how I go without a shroud, having it set up on the front you then block any air that would otherwise flow through whilst driving. Not only that, but the dynamic is much different from a draw through fan. I couldn't live with the concept of pushing bolts through the fins! And my biggest trouble with running a crank fan was finding one that fitted my water pump! I took it for a drive FINALLY. Throttle cable stretched an I had no foot pedal. Alternator got too close to the radiator hose and nicked a hole in it. Drove home tugging on the throttle cable!

In reality, the price you got was fairly standard. Sounds like you got the going rate for rebuilt/exchange starters to me. I had a Galant one done for 85 bucks, a hilux one for 120. There's plenty of joints that can/will do it.

Alrighty then; After busting a little hole in my rad, I fitted the KE20 item I scored off ebay.Reasonable condition, it was cleaned out in 2006 according to the NATRAD stickeron it. To get it to fit neatly, I had to put 2 lengths of 13mm SHS aluminium to space it back from the support panel. This allowed me to bring the radiator upwards slightly, otherwise the bottom passenger side corner sits hard on the crossbrace. You can see the SHS in there, I just used longer bolts. Also had to file out the slots on the Radiator quite a bit. Its a bigger core, a couple of inches taller. I checked and I have plentyof clearance to the bonnet. Fitted a 12 inch thermofan (cheers Mick) as well. Simple, just 2 bolts into the rad support brace at the top and then a piece of Aly angle across the bottom that I stole off Scotty: I mounted the relays between the battery and the Radiator. I'll run a thermoswitch eventually but for the moment Its just wired to a switch on the dash. Got the exhaust all plumbed up, discovered I can just pull out my rear muffler, it was frozen on but I might rip it out once its running. All thats left is the floor cut for shifter......