philbey

Says the bloke from Hackham..... :cool:

Put a NACA duct on your KE30 hey? Just a bit counter intuitive......

Are the springs sitting properly in their perches?

Yep. I thought they were talking about doing it in SA as well?

Simply put, yes. In detail, Static means the advance your dizzy will have set when it is not running. Once your car increases revs, a set of weights inside the dizzy increase your advance to a set higher value. On top of this, many cars also run Vacuum advance, which is a little vacuum actuator that increases advance depending on engine load.

Hey Chobis, when are we going to see some pics of this 11 of yours anyway?

I remember that exact pic posted on twincam16.com many years ago, I don't think the dude ever mentioned it was a turbo. All he said was "if you see this thing on the road, good luck trying to keep up" Unreal.

Ahh you haven't seen slug until you've had a 3k toyoglide - 2 Speed baby!

Theres a couple of sets of twins for sale at the moment, a set of SU's and theres some dellortos as well, I'm running twin Dells, need to get them balanced and tuned, but my car is running at least!

So you drilled them on a mill with a jig to get the PCD correct?

It musn't be clear cut "illegal". Plenty of the 32 Ford coupe rods you see floating about the place are full glass bodies. Lots of rods will be glass.

The change may be a change from dry to wet weight.

Why would you post this twice in two different sections within a half an hour apart? :bang: Try searching PROPERLY, not a once off attempt looking for the word tappet, try also with "lifter", "rocker", "clearance", "gap" etc. Like Taz said, there's been a couple of threads about it in the last month. Buy a manual, they are easily available. I bought both mine (different publishers) for 5 bucks a pop.

Lots of time and effort.... But if you want to do it.... To get the look you want you'll most likely want to pull C pillar forward and change the rake angle to look like a coupe. Otherwise you'll just look like a poxy sedan with the doors welded shut. It's a fairly common thing to do with 50s lead sleds etc. Go get a copy of Mad Fabricators 3 and watch the segment "Chopping Jakes Shoebox" they do exactly that. You wont need to strengthen the roof or C pillars so much, you'd be better off strengthening the car through the sills like they do making topless KE10s. Easier way to go.

Any idea what brand filter runs the non return valve? I read in the FAQ that the factory ones are, what about any aftermarket ones?

Ahh, don't you love factory assembly sequences..... You could try a right angle screwdriver, I've seen them around, a bit like an allen key with a phillips head. Still going to be tricky.

how much more stupider are your questions going to get? :yes:

As far as I was aware, they were slotted on different models. When I've seen them on original crowns, they're always matched sets of 4. Scotty will know...

Yeh, you'll be fine with that to get it running, main concern would be the timing advance, big cam and carbs will need between 10-20 degrees static advance. The lumpier you go, the more advance you'll need. This means that once your full advance would most likely be very high and could cause issues.

That's it scotty, old school Bobbers are tough. Everyones into the 30 inch wide, massively chopped OC Choppers shit covered in polished billet these days that cost 80k to build. I'll get the first engine running in stock format, then I reckon I'll go to town on the second motor I've got - you can get 840cc big bore kits for them, run that with a monster cam, that'd be unreal!!!@#! Set of 34mm mikunis with big ass trumpets and it'll be a real menace.... As for uncomfortable, there's lots of guys that ride em, but I reckon the old back would take a beating. All good fun. Scored these puppies on Ebay tonight, pick em up next week I hope. Run them upside down, like on the goldy greeny metalflaked bike.... Got a few bits and pieces lined up to buy so I can hopefully get her rolling real soon....

Locked dizzy + Jaycar programmable timing computer + 6AL/Hi6 = timing control. Otherwise, just a stock dizzy with a CDI. The Crane is definitely digital, the Mallory 6A is also digital. Better rev limiting witout the need for Pills (just set the dial) AND something I forgot, the Tacho testing function to make sure your tach is accurate. Also there is a model Hi6 with 2 stage rev limiting if you want for staging etc. You can also get a plug in unit for step retard/manual retard control. The only thing the MSD digital 6 has over the Crane Hi6 is the Start Retard function and it's standard with Step retard. Plus you pay 300 bucks more for it.

Hah, we'll see, we'll see.... I wouldnt mind getting the dimensions of your K engine and also your SC12, that way I can model them up and get a few made etc to sell to people. Let me know if your'e keen, next weekend I'm back in town.

Your brother has a track you say? I notice it's in SA, whereabouts?

Hey ryan, If you want some new brackets made up, I could model them up in CAD and get them laser cut for you. Should be under 100 bucks, out of Stainless, if we're smart we could avoid having to weld anything. Let me know, I could make a few.

Yellow flash trying to keep up with a red ass-dragging NA POWERED wagon...... hahaha.