philbey

crispy, good work on reading up before posting your questions! dfunkt has basically answered all your questions. Just keep in mind there are 2 different models of 5 speed, the only real difference is the gearshifter is in different places. The 2 types are from KE55 (hard to get) and KE70 (common as muck). KE 70 type has the shifter all the way at the back of the box, the KE55 one is forward further and I would guess probably fits almost bang in in the location of your 4 speed shifter. TP.

Call Albins in Ballarat, last I heard the only CNC hypoid gear cutter in the southern hemisphere. Make any Hypoid gear set you want!

Fixed by the way.

What skills? Fibrglassing and bog sculpting? Dog ugly.

Try before you buy, fat or skinny, height and posture will change what's nice to sit in. If you can find them, Series 6 and 7 RX7 seats are a nice recliner bucket. WRX seats are good recaros as well.

I wouldn't mind a set of these too but everything I've done on my rolla I can get away with a few of open ended ringies and a 1/2 inch drive socket set. Another handy item I saw a while ago was a Sidchrome fine tooth ratchet, it's got 60 teeth instead of 30.

Actually I don't reckon they are, I remember when I was going to get a clutch for the CA the clutch guy reckoned there was about 3 different pressure plate sizes. I never ended up changing it though, I sold the car off.

Yeh, TAZ did a comparison of Bigport gaskets, and I think 7K gaskets.

Yeh the bolt heads on mine were in really bad condition. 9 inch, all good.

Double no.

Buy a new set of gaskets for 8 bucks and use them as a template.

Wicked The car the tanned chick is leaning on is tough as well

Ebay usually has them floating around.

Now that I think about it, I had a CA18 with a dodgy rocker gasket, and that leaked an absolute shitload of oil out of it too, so it's probably unlikely yours is dodgy if there's not much oil around there.

If I get around to it today I'll put it in the FAQ.

sump would be apparent by the amount of oil you'd be seeing. A very small air leak would be enough for oil to get through. Tappet cover and dipstick are a cheap easy replacement job at least.

Trav what cam grind did you get? I fired up the 5k the other day straight out the headers, sounded lumpyish. Hard to tell out the headers though! I'll be spending all day thursday working on it if you're free. Going to fit a thermo and the pedal box gear and cut the tunnel, so we should have it driving by the end of the day.

Also keen to hear what people have done. Pulling the tanks off and getting them cleaned out would be the best, but it's going to cost a fair packet.

I found the easiest and quickest way to lock the flex plate/flywheel on assembly is to fit a G-Clamp directly onto the flywheel where it will butt up against the side of the block. Sweet.

all the drag cars running vac pumps are for the crank cases. Evacuating the crank case means you can reduce the air drag on the pistons. Basically putting a negative pressure on the underside of the piston, as well as evacuating any blowby past the rings. I really wouldn't bother, you need quite a high output vac pump, plus you need one with the right seals. Your idle issue will more than likely be an issue with leaking or incorrectly set up carbs. Did you have them balanced correctly?

Yeh sounds to me like a timing chain rattle as well. Or you could get noise from hydraulic lifters if it's a 5K.

The bolts that hold it to the flex plate were all knackered. I just whacked a thin disc on a 9 inch grinder and knocked the heads off. But, you'll take chunks of the ring gear out most likely.

The religion stuff was interesting. Most of it was typical conspiracy theory shit, find a few facts linking a few circumstances, balance your whole argument on those flimsy facts and focus everyone's attention on it so that they don't see the big holes in your theory. It's mike moore on steroids.

Where did you get your reduction starter? I was going to go with one, but I didn't need it in the end, new terminals and a bit of cable and connection cleanup did it. I reckon I still have one of those manuals somewhere. Might have turfed it, I had it for years.

I'd be crossbracing up that leaf bracket first of all! and maybe a panhard rod style of setup. I really don't think you'll see any benefit from whacking in a couple of braces here and there, other than a strut brace. You're talking about a lot of effort for benefit you wont see on your self proclaimed daily driver. As for the foam, you're getting mixed up between chassis stiffening and collision protection - the foam is/would be used to absorb any collision energy, not to stiffen the chassis.