philbey

Mate, get the workshop doing it to make that suggestion, they'll be able to take a look at it and tell you much more comprehensively. It's not really an issue of how much weight you take out, its more to do with where you take the weight out. For example: Remove 1kg out of the centre, (up to a diameter of 150mm) you will see ~5% reduction in flywheel inertia. VS Remove 0.5kg from the outer edge of the flywheel (inner diameter 280, outer diameter 320) you will see ~25% reduction in flywheel inertia. This is a very crude estimation, considering a uniform flat flywheel of diameter 320mm, but it is an effective means of demonstrating that overall mass isnt the critical dimension to consider. Removal of material from the outer periphery is also better as the material there is under less strain. The other thing to consider is where you can actually remove meat from, depending on bolt areas, clutch surfaces ring gear, etc. I will measure up my flwheel while its out of the car and do some calculations to see where the best places are!

Let us know how that goes Sam. The water thats dissolved in the fuel isn't an issue. The problem arises when the ethanol becomes saturated with water and it seperates out of the fuel mix, then it will cause problems.

yeh but the lifters will drop down and snag the cam. You can get tools to grab the top of the lifter once the pushrod is out the way. I've seen them for Hydraulics at least.

Flash looking setup on the front. You're getting straight into it then! What other plans do you have for it?

Yeh you can get a Mallory drain bowl as well, actually that unit looks identical. I figured most modern fuel hose would be Ethanol proof, whether EFI or not. Anything Viton based should do it.

Probably an engine temp issue, it may close the gap due to expansion of the block etc.

Rust issues with tanks will be an issue initially, any existing rust will get removed by the Ethanol. Just run a filter straight after the tank and make it easy to change for the first few hundred kms. Also, if you run a water separator on a recirculating fuel system, you will clean the moisture out of the tank as it's driven.

Hey shaun, just an observation, that pod sitting right on top of your motor is probably worse off than a standar Air Cleaner intake! Might want to run a couple of feet more pipe.

Just started a new thread to get peoples thoughts and experiences on buildups of Ethanol tuned motors, if you've researched or considered it in the past, let me know. Click, read and offer your sage like advice TP

Guys, I've mentioned before that I want to do build my Motor with the plan to run E85 if I can get my hands on it. I thought I'd post up my general thought on what parts and plans I have to overcome some of the issues with Ethanol. PLEASE don't make this some kind of ethical food supply debate, nor am I interested in hearing advice from "peoples qualified mates" or the various Pro and Anti ethanol conspiracies, I've come across them all before. Here are my plans: Carby - DHLA's will give me ample room to tune for the extra fuel supply required, with experimentation i will be able to quickly swap jets between straight fuel and Ethanol. Will take some Trial and error. Still need to confirm that they wont dissolve, but I should be right. Ignition - I'm going to leave my dizzy stock without vac advance, but the cam timing will give me quite a lot of total advance. I'm going to chuck in a Crane Hi6 with a Timing retard controller, so I can dial it back for Petrol and dial it up for Ethanol. I've come across anecdotal evidence of people running up to 40 Degrees advance and still seeing power gains with high Ethanol mixes! Fuel System - Jury is out about the mechanical pump being able to handle the ethanol. I wont worry about it too much, I'll upgrade to a Facet. I'm still chasing info on whats compatible with Alchohol, I think I'll just stick one in and take a risk. Maybe drop a spare in the boot. I also discovered Mallory make a Fuel Water separator filter, which I will chuck in with a drain on it, this will reduce the risk of saturation in the tank. Adelaide is damn dry, so I should be fine anyway. I'll also chuck a couple of extra filters in the line because I might have issues with the Ethanol giving my tank a good cleanout of the crap! Tuning - I will get the car running on Petrol for a few months, while I gather the goodies for an Ethanol run. This is just to bug fix anything from the build of the engine first, before I add more variable. I might even buy a wideband O2 to really get the tune sorted out properly. Please ask away any questions, or if you've researched this/tried this, let me know what you came across. TP

Elec dizzy is easy to pick, just pull the cap off and if you don't have points, you know its electric. If you don't know what points are, google it and you soon will! As mentioned the O ring is easy, but when you pull the dizzy out, pay great attention to the orientation of the Rotor, you'll need to get that back in the same spot to get the car running.

RON will be specific to which servo you go to. Most E85's are comfortably in the 98 region, but if you look over the web there's a few running up to 105 RON, I'm guessing in the US. Thats apparently the story. There was an article in Street Machine about it a while ago, you have to demonstrate that the car is tuned for it before they'll sell it. If you look on some muzza forums (ie Commodes) there was a bunch of people tuning for E85 sold by United in Sydney and seeing gains. I have a scan of the Street Machine article, if the Mods are ok with it I will post it up.

What a beast. The rear camber looks mad, especially with the squared off rear wheelarches.

A neat customisation job must be respected for being neatly done. I still don't like it though.

Ever see a picture of Ayers Rock against the horizon - thats what your power curve will probably look like. Flat flat flat bump flat flat flat.

high tension or low tension lead?

Get Albins in victoria to make you a complete new diff centre, they've got the only CNC hypoid gear cutter in the southern hemisphere. You'll only need to sell your first born haha.

Slide hammer- good to see you getting into some serious body work, top stuff. These projects always take time. My simple engine rebuild and swap is still crawling along haha!

Discussion begins. Warning, opinion is rife in the following paragraph: I personally think it's an abomination, but I wouldn't piss on an old BMW to put out a fire. The nice clean chrome front end of the KE10 has been chopped and replaced with a poxy plastic front of a kraut-camry. No kidding, old 3 series BMW's are common as, you see many more of them day to day than a nice KE10, why ruin a nice KE. don't get me wrong, I dig customs, some of the crazy slicing and dicing people do with a 50s mercury or chev is magnificent. But plastic bumpers and side skirts are nowhere close to suiting this car. On the same note though, it looks like a job well done. The dash install looks really slick too. Matt, I'm guessing from your moniker you're a BMW fan?

All good - It's an interesting topic because there's a lot of people pushing some fairly crazy theories on ethanol. I'm not going to go into any conspiracy theories but theres a couple of fundamental interesting facts about ethanol in fuel that you should keep in mind: 1. Henry Ford designed the Model T to run on ethanol, you had enough control of the timing advance that it was basically a flex fuel vehicle! His theory was that farmers and remote people would be able to distill their own fuel. Pretty crazy. 2. Ethanol was a proven Antiknock agent as far back as the 20's, but the discovery of Lead additives which were much cheaper to use, meant that it never became a common fuel additive! Like I said, I will be dabbling with getting my car running on E85. Things like a water separator filter, new fuel lines, big jets and a good degree of spark advance control, and I reckon I'll see some good gains from running it. Mind you I might also see myself bonnet up on the side of the road haha! Cheers tOm,.

trav, plainly and simply you are talking shit. There are certain issues with certain rubbers, sometimes un-anodised aluminium, cork, as well as issues with the hygroscopic nature of Ethanol absorbing moisture out of air (shouldn't be an issue with E10) Get your facts straight before you start pronouncing rubbish to the forum. With some minor investigation and mods you will be able to run E10 with no issues. E85 might be a bit different though. As for the benefits/disadvantages performance and consumption wise, there's still plenty of work to be done. A car properly tuned (fuel and ignition) to run ethanol mixes can see some good gains. Higher RON will allow better timing advance etc and more compression. Compression directly influences thermodynamic efficiency (why are diesels so efficient - Compression). theres a servo in Adelaide selling E85 now, I'm hoping to tune my 5K to run a high Ethanol mix. Watch this space and quit spitting this disinformation.

It's not safer when your un-helmeted head is smacking against a piece of sched 40 bore pipe 2 as you flip and bounce your way down the road. You'll probably find most states have laws against rollcages. Victoria allow it if the cage is padded and outside a certain distance from drivers head, SA allows half cages if the rear seats are unoccupied. Love the way you're getting stuck into it full swing. Top stuff.

Sounds like a fairly minor head gasket issue. I've had them where they are using water, but show none of the other symptoms of HG leakage for some time. I drove my CA18 turbo for months suspecting the gasket was leaking (similar issue, used small amounts of water) but only occasionally would I see excessive steam out the exhaust on cold mornings. When I finally got Cappucino froth in the radiator, I changed it. I wouldn't worry about it that much until you see that.

Yeh you should have the paint colour on the compliance plate, it will reference a manufacturer's paint code and any panel shop should be able to mix up the paint to that code.

It's not really a ricer accessory, its from drag racing mainly. It's really only useful once you know your power and torque curves of your car, then you set it so you are optimising the next shift to stay in the cars powerband as you go through the gears.