philbey

It's not really a ricer accessory, its from drag racing mainly. It's really only useful once you know your power and torque curves of your car, then you set it so you are optimising the next shift to stay in the cars powerband as you go through the gears.

Yeh, funny funny! Picked up my Tailshaft from MV Auto's today, I had the front yoke swapped with a second hand item I got from toyoland. Easy as. I also picked up some 4AGE flywheel bolts, much easier to get than the 5K items, and they'll fit. Spending so much time away from home (damn you lucrative mining industry) that I wont get it running until Christmas time now. I've got 2 days at home between now a the 22nd!

Yeh no kidding its been a long time!

I moved to Melbourne for 7 years, so coming back to Adelaide and hearing people talk about a lunchtime Parkside-St Georges trip to get a feed being "far" is preposterous! Good times.

rotoresque!

You should be able to set up an aftermarket MSD/Crane/Mallory unit with their twin post coils and a crank trigger (only 2 coils needed, waste spark setup). Check out the MSD 6AL and the Crane Hyfire.

that Cyborg seat is fantastic!

Ahh engine rebuilding. Taking any bets on completion dates?

Thank your lucky stars it wasnt your front uni that failed!

I saw a bog stock corona in Echuca once with a 5 inch monster tach. That Blue lawn mower, Is that the one with the fuel filler in the roof?

damn someone should just do a FAQ on the 137e!

Yep, bang on.

Mate, don't bullshit the whole Rollaclub community that you have been and searched for the information you're after. :) There's info on the FAQ for Victorian cars: CLICK HERE There's a KE20 kicking around Melbourne fully engineered with a Windsor 289 (It had a blower at one point too).

They are a 14mm Hex, you sure 17mm Hex's fit, the PCD is quite small? Like Trev said, most other flywheel bolts I've seen are flared heads. I'll see what I can drag up new part wise first and I might get back to you!

I love adelaide, everything is "too far".

What are the other sites like for parts? Probably more expensive than here? By parts I mean twin carb setups and tacho dashes.

How is it that some cars run factory different wheel sizes then? I reckon one of the Lotus Esprit's run a larger rear diameter.

You bet it comes out of the Murray. When I first moved to Adelaide in 88, I can remember the tap water had a brownish hue to it. Tasty.

Dave, I hear you man, but I've rang a lot of toyota people over the last few days and they're all telling me they don't have any. ARP apparently don't make the aftermarket 4AGE items that fit K motors anymore. I thought was all a bit odd, but if anyone knows where to get some of the damn things please let me know. I'll do some calculations on these based on the torque setting, that will give me a good idea if the high tensiles are up to the task. As for the Auto/Manual loading, I don't have evidence, that call is based on simple deduction. Manuals will have some axial bolt loading via the clutch springs being engaged/disengaged, while autos don't. The manual can also see greater shear loading if the driver is a brute (ie clutch dropping) As for the bolts being fatigued I greatly doubt that, they haven't snapped, and a fatigue failure with that sort of deformation should snap fairly quickly. I had another look at the flywheel assembly after Trevs comments, I agree that they are not the correct bolts. I don't know what the standard length is, but these don't have a straight shank because they are only 15mm bolts, the flexplate is quite thin. As for whether these are high tensile or not, I'm hedging my bets with no. I'll do some numbers and see what I come up with. If anyone knows where I can get OEM bolts though, please let me know!

Haha, you'd probably look cheap and everyday if you'd been in there for a good few decades. You make a good point though Trev, they could be standard bolts, not high tensiles, which would explain the excessive stretch. They did have a number on them, but it could just be random factory numbering with no real meaning. I'll check later. High tensile or not, if your bolts get any plastic deformation then you're best to just replace them.

As I hit the paint on the damn sump It crossed my mind. Damn, I might strip it back, I cleaned the hell out of that sump but I'm just not certain I got all the flux and crap out from under the baffles...... I'll be keen to get some photo's, just keep watching this space! EDIT - A quick google came up with this. I knew when I sprayed it that I shouldn't bother but I'd spent the morning looking at the brand newies at Outlaw speed shop, all nicely painted up. I've been painting everything lately.... I just can't vouch for my QA and surface prep though, so out comes the stripper!

Yeh, like I mentioned I had a flywheel come loose once. Looking back we were lucky the damn thing didn't go through the tunnel. It dropped down onto the spigot while spinning and the ring gear dug a 3/4 inch groove through all the ribs on the inside of the bell housing. I've heard some horror stories about them coming through the floor too. Spend the 12 bucks!

There will be a method of testing they need to use, certain distance from the exhaust, certain rev range, particular type of Sound meter etc.

I dig the colour. Different.

Yeh, we don't get many deer to run into over here, just 6 foot tall kangaroos and dropbears. Oh, Wombats will rip your front suspension right out from under you as well.