philbey

Gday all. I spent a bit of time yesterday rooting around putting a sump baffle in my 5K sump, after reading a post about oil starvation issues. Mine's fairly crude, I got inspiration from the LS1 aftermarket sumps down at the local speed shop. I was originally going to run a vertical one halfway down the sloped face of the pan, but this one was easier to braze in. It's got a narrow gap underneath at the back, so oil will still flow through, It's just to slow the oil down as you accelerate. After all it's not a racecar Anyone else tried it with a K series sump? You'll notice I had a bit of trial and error notching the front of the baffle to fit the oilpump leg!

Have a look at these pictures - I was just reading THIS THREAD and there was some dispute over whether or not to replace flywheel bolts. Personally, I've always been a fan of replacing, and the one time I didn't, the damn flywheel fell off. Today I had to get some longer flywheel bolts, so I whacked a thread gauge on the old one to check the pitch. While not paying much attention to what I was doing, I couldn't seem to get a thread to match. On closer inspection I found..... Here's another picture, it actually sticks out like dogs balls! In the second photo, you can see the necking of the bolt, where elongation has made the bolt thinner. The reason its only the top half of the bolt is because that's the flywheel side, where there's no threads to engage the bolt, so it can stretch. This bolt has undergone Plastic deformation - the strain put on the bolt has permanently changed its shape. This occurs when the stress on the Bolt material passes the Yield Strength. (See Irokin's post in the other thread) To put this bolt back in and retorque it would more than likely bring the material very close to its Tensile strength (ie BREAKAGE) - If it didn't break on torque up, it could very likely break mid operation and it's gearbox out time! It cost me about 10 bucks for a new set of High Tensile bolts from Coventry, well worth the money I say. Incidentally, these were off an Automatic flexplate, I would dare say a Manual would see higher loads on the flywheel bolts. Good Times. TP.

Green, every other KE20 is bamboo!

Tommy if you get down to Melbourne at all, call Peter Robinson, he'll almost certainly be able to help you out with an indicator mechanism. 9544 1162. He has literally piles of parts.

Damn, I'm heading out to buy a couple of extinguishers myself! And checking my fuel pump.

Toothed belt drives are more efficient than V belts - ie they use less energy to transmit power. BUT, if you overtension it, then you will completely negate the benefits. Notice the only place they use them is on blower drives on Drag cars, where every 1/18th horsepower is critical? That and the fact that they need loads of grunt to turn those blowers at 60 PSI.

If you head to the wreckers, you'll find a lot of the cars with factory thermo-fans will have a temp switch mounted into the radiator as a threaded fitting. You should be able to use one of these, you just might need a relay etc depending on the fan wiring. You can easily make a T-piece that will splice into one of your radiator lines and mount the switch in that. If Cam doesn't do a FAQ, I will when I get my thermofans set up.

NOS it.

Got a locker in that rolla13bt?

I doubt you have much of a problem, the thermostat most likely opens around the 80-85 mark, and you might get a bit of overshoot. If it's always going over 100 then thats a different matter. From my looking, the radiators get larger with each model - KE20 slightly taller than KE10, KE30 is wider again, KE70 wider again. It's straightforward to fit the larger rad's, just need a bracket with a set of offset holes. You could get your radiator flushed if you think it is clogged, should only cost 50 bucks, and while you're at it, change you thermostat over, it may be stuck.

Mate did you even read posts 2-9?

Ring the RTA.

Understeer - usually end up oversteering with a rear swaybar.

damn thats one of the maddest car vids I've seen in a while....

Mines about to go in today. I'll get pics on my page.

haha yeh good call. If you can hear it, you aint getting the benefit....

don't zip tie it, make a bracket, it's fairly simple as the Autospeed article demonstrates. Thermo's are more efficient because if you use a thermal switch (like they're designed for) then the fan is only running when the temp gets high enough to trip the switch. Hardwiring to run all the time is fairly pointless, you might as well use the engine fan. Some belt driven fans have a thermo clutch on them as well but I gather they are fairly unreliable.

I just picked up a stock KE70(?) rear swaybar that I'm going to jam into the wagon. Its pretty feeble, but if I get that to work then I can upgrade later....

Your best bet is to switch to KE20 strut tops and then upgrade the springs. Check the FAQ article I wrote up, it's a cheap and easy fix. And yes, from previous discussion you will be able to run without the transverse leaf if you upgrade springs.

Incidentally, I just got some plates laser cut to blank off the fuel pump hole if you upgrade to Electric. 316 Stainless, could even polish it up. PM me if you want one, cheap!

It's called axle tramp, it happens because the torque through your rear wheels tries to wind the leaf spring up like a clock spring, then when it loads up it unloads again creating the shuddering feeling. You can make anti tramp bars for them quite easily, just look it up on google. The reason its happening is because the new tyres grip the road much better when trying to do burnouts and thus you get more reaction torque.

A gilmer drive should be running less tension than a bloody V belt - they shouldn't be killing bearings anywhere near as much as a standard drive. If you're tensioning them up too high, you are negating the benifits of putting a Gilmer drive on in the first place :jamie:

Timing chain usually makes noise on startup and then dies out.... Unless you have a really terminal one like Camerons.

Wicked....

Mate are you after a bracket or a manifold? There's a fair bit of difference, and if you need a manifold, I started designing one ages ago but decided to pass on it because it was easier to buy a cheap set of Dellortos with manifold.