philbey

Maybe for a KE20 but not for a KE10.

Good work, but if you think you're getting accurate results think again. I did the same on mine but be warned: - have you taken into account the diameter of your tip on the dial gauge. - Getting your dial indicator shaft aligned directly through the cam axis is very, very tricky. Just slightly off and your specs will change. - Your rig, while creative, will be problematic as you have no hard connection between your camshaft and your mag base. the slightest nudge of your support or even that tea towel will cock up the job. You will get inaccurate results, and I dare say that this is why you reckon your specs are out. Cam grinding is a straightforward machining process and it's very easy to produce accurate, repeatable dimensions. Any claim that they overstate their specs is bullshit. I just used my engine block as a jig when I had it on the engine stand, and a protractor drilled and screwed onto the front of the camshaft. At least when it's mounted into a block, your cam is perfectly centred and you can mag base straight to the block. Also, I measured at 5 degree increments and plotted my timing curves in Excel. I also made sure I degreed it at maximum lift (because it was in between two degree points) Next time I will do it at 2 degree increments, I wasn't happy with my plot. My lessons learnt, I wouldn't do it this way again. Next time I do this I will: 1. Install the cam in the block 2. Fit a solid lifter (hydro lifter engine), perhaps even turn one down so the top of it is perfectly flat. 3. Run the dial indicator straight off the lifter 4. Mount my protractor to the Crank and not the cam. This allows more accurate degreeing as you get 720 degrees of crank rotation to the cam. The reason the lifter method will work is because you are measuring exactly what is being transmitted to the valve, and you only have to make sure your dial gauge interfaces nicely with a flat surface. Measuring straight off the lobe means you add a sideways friction force to the dial gauge as well.

Stroke on the 1k and 2k is shorter too so yes, Taz's point about bearings could definitely be an issue.

price or it gets deleted mate. No EOI thread as clearly stated in the forum rules.

haha what are you on dial up or some shit? I don't hit BID until its single digit seconds baby and I stil get nailed most of the time! sub 5 seconds is the go now. she seems to have lost her t-shirt though :ninja:. not trying hard enough.

less talk more action mate. Who gives a shit what everyone thinks, you're just going to cop a flaming. At the end of the day, KE70's are a cuboid pustule on the face of the automotive industry. I say hit that sucker with the gas axe and do something different, nobody will miss the car if you guff it up! Oh wait sorry, why don't you put a 4age in it, I don't think I've seen that done before.

holy smokes batman that is the wackest flare job ever. I don't see how that's even easier and quicker than mungi mods' job!

first up; Cost to rebuild any K engine will be almost the same. I would go as far to say that rebuilding a 1K is probably the most expensive; it's a 40 year block, it will be the worst of the family of K engines as far as corrosion and fatigue . Not only that but it's the first of the family so all the stuff they got wrong, they probably got wrong with the 1K. Dumb shit like welsh plugs in funny spots and stupid valve stem seals spring to mind. Ken is right, 1K's are getting hard to find. But who cares really, even an AVID collector, someone who'll pay big dollars for a resto'd KE10, probably wont give a shit if its missing the original motor. In the world of engine conversions, consider all 1k 2k 3k 4k and 5k motors to be identical. Ok so there are some minor differences but it's nothing you can't solve with a bit of thought and a few extra minutes in the shed. Cutting, welding, fabricating not required. 7k's, this is not the case. Even still, not too hard to fit. Cost to rebuild my 5K properly: around 1300 bucks, not assembled. You could save on this as well.

Yeh most manufacturer's will make wheels to your spec, it's a fairly straightforward change to the machining operation Problem with corolla owners is that they don't want to spend 1000 bucks on new wheels!

greenmac80, when's the last time you spoke to Regency about that? Because those guys work for the same people that wrote the bulletin on ride height, it'd be typical of the DTEI to not know the rules they've set. BUT having said that, they have published an info page on the eyebrow heights on the same page, get Regency to fill out those details and keep a copy in your car anyway. Not only that, but eyebrow heights don't always correspond to anything to do with ground clearance. You could have the eyebrow's correct but your zorst could be hanging low.

first question can a 4af carby manifold fit on a 4afe No idea i'm afraid. Someone will know the answer i can get a manifold to run twin 40 dellorto carbs or a manifold to run a 32/36 can i use my standard cable and linkages?? or do i have to go custom Dellorto's no. You will need sidedraft linkages, but the cable should do it, maybe with minor mods. Standard cable should work on a 32/36 with minor mods what else would i have to do besides plug the injector holes (leave the injectors in i have been told) to run carbs i don't like ecu and don't want to buy a standalone Injector holes are in the EFI manifold; how are you going to fit carbies and carby manifold to an engine with an EFI manifold still attached?

Hang on a minute guys; this is now out of date information. This the page to go to. Check the PDF "Requirements for raising or lowering vehicle ride height/October 2009" This document specifies nothing about eyebrow heights. The only place you should get this information from is straight from the horses mouth, the DTEI themselves. Anything else (like Luke's link) may possibly be outdated. 100mm only applies to fore of front and aft of rear axles. In between is dependent on the wheelbase of the vehicle (measurement in mm, multiply by 33.33, this is the value of the height in the centre of the two. I would calculate this and write it down inside your glovebox lid in permanent texta. Keep a copy of that bulletin as well.

Don't you need a ticket and registration for tow trucks? could be some nasty legalities if you were just freelancing on the sly.

Yeh there's obviously a range of differences with the mechanical pumps, mine has a funny looking pump that I've never seen on any other K engine, I think it's an aftermarket one, not the factory one, which could explain the higher delivery pressure.

Yeh the check valve issue should only give grief when you gas it, I had one fail once and you could only drive it by very slowly easing on the throttle. Any more and it would bog down and stall. +1 for fuel pressure, although I'm not familiar with how the DCOE's work, I would have thought you'd see fuel drip out the primrary's as well?

Oh I got it. I just chose not to participate....

So your pump works with your mikunis and no FPR. Who cares? But my DHLA Dellortos with a factory mechanical pump pushing over 5 or so PSI and gave me grief running until I got the FPR dialled. Cos it was pushing fuel past the needle and seat. Holy shit Aesop, your fables have come true!

Same thing.

Scoobzd mate, you're just part the problem, what you've said is horseshit. mighty_4K is running DELLORTO's and you definitely need an FPR on them. You've just come in and told him he doesn't, and then quoted the some shit about 2TG celica's and solex's.

and tell her I can help with the engineering calcs, maybe some testing?

Yeh my guess is that the tappets haven't been gapped properly. I disconnected my coil and cranked it for 15 seconds when I built mine, just to get some oil moving through the system. I also made sure everything was liberally oiled when I bolted it together. Did you check the clearances on your oil pump when you had the engine apart?

Luc that's not a bad price, I reckon that's half what I got quoted from Basic Steel a while back I reckon.

Mate, as long as you roll in with the right attitude you'll always have fun wherever you live. There's plenty of stuff to do, people to meet and nice places to live and exist. After living in Melbourne for 7 years I found that moving back to adelaide, you need to look a bit harder for the fun and excitement, and you're not spoilt for choice like melbourne, but it's all there. I'm from Blackwood way like Dropz and honestly, I love the place. Foothills, trees, windy roads. Best spot in the world. Give us some more info? Who you working for, what industry, where's your office? What stuff you like doing other than mopping up corolla oil leaks? Music tastes, hobbies, sports etc? Also, steer clear of people who live in croydon, they'll distract you with their heavy metally music and while you're not looking they'll steal the shoes off your feet.

Forget it. It's not just a steering wheel, its some electrics and sensors and calibration, it will cost more than the car.

Forget WD40, get the 15 buck can of gasket remover, that shit is gold!