philbey

Yeh you can't see it externally. It's a big googly thing hanging off the bottom of the block.

Your lifters will compress a certain amount when everything is bolted up. You need to make sure the preload is about the 1.5mm mark, It's a simple process but it takes a bit of trial and error to get the hang of it. Google "set lifter preload" and you will find out the deal. Crow cams or Crane cams (can't remember) have an article on it.

Actually one thing that you need to do is check your lifter preload; if you've had the head skimmed only slightly I dare say you will be fine, but it's a worthwhile thing to check.

The reason you box up a carby is so that the fuel bowl pressure is equalised to the boost pressure - otherwise, your fuel bowl pressure will be lower than the carby throats and getting fuel out the jets will be..... problematic.

No need to mod a 4K one at all, just grab one from a wrecker and chuck it on. Make sure you get the spacer!! There is a phenolic spacer that goes between the block and pump and you must have this installed. You should just be able to throw the motor back together and get it going again, unless you pulled the dizzy out.

If that's true styler, then it could be more about the actual material used to make the axles than the hardening itself. Low/Mild carbon steels can only be Case hardened Medium and higher carbon steels can only be through hardened. If they are case hardened they are probably mild steel and without looking for more data, the fatigue limit of this material will be lower.

You don't need to Box the carby you just need a boost pressure reference line to the fuel bowl. You could just close up the standard bowl vents and tap a fitting into the top of the fuel bowl.

You got ripped off when you bought it and the bloke you sold it too DEFINITELY got ripped off!

Yeh almost defintely the welded diff is the cause of the failure. Get me a picture of the fractured face of the axle in high res and as clear as possible - use the macro function on the camera if you've got one, so that I can see the grain structure of the metal. with lockers, that chirp chirp chirp puts a fairly intense "on and off" cyclic load on the axle. Those tiny radiuses on each spline act to magnify any stress within the metal, so that almost certainly you'll be able to pick the exact spline that the fracture started.

Sick man, my mate got his copy of Sex Style autographed by Keith through the window of his Limo when he played in Adelaide. I got Motion Man (features on a lot of Kool Keith albums) to sign a copy of Clearing the Field along with Kut Mast Kurt when they played in Melbourne years ago. Never seen Q Bert live, seen Mix Master Mike a few times though, insane.

That's the plan...!

I'm picking up a hercus 260 metal lathe tonight for 700 bones. Find one on ebay and expect to pay double that.

I've never heard of someone considering a conversion TO a startfires motor.... They're usually pulling them out because they are a piece of shit.

same shit different name. It's like Hi-Cams. Just some jerkoff in the marketing department flogging their same old same old product to the Hipsters who want to jerk off over specifications in their little bourgeouis laneway bars.

Just a point of order, diameter isn't the only deciding factor in Strength of the axle; it's a rule of thumb really. Design of the axle, design of the spline, root diameter (ie - the spline size), material spec and manufacturing process all come into play Can you post a pick of the different axles for me? Like a comparison shot, side by side as well as end on?

Even black anodising comes out looking shit a lot of the time on Cast aluminium.

I just drove mine and loaded it up, you know shift up a gear early and chug up hills. 20W50 is all I run in mine.

Check out the Adelaide wheel and rim works on south road, they're your best bet for this sort of work.

Does the pin-crown distance stay the same 3K-5K. Deck height to crown?

I'm pretty sure it's got nothing to do with it does it?

You're going to paint it that way though aren't you? Because on cast aluminium you wont get a good finish with anodising.

Yeah where do you live.

Too true boo too true. good time for me to point out that the FAQ is a wiki, so any and all are free to create a login and edit it! Hint Hint. :abuse: It's not just the Mods. BUT reality is the reason I haven't done it is because I've not got the actual dimensions of each, I just know they don't fit. I'll measure mine up and if some kind associate can post their motor pump dimensions as well that would be cool.

There's a couple of 4AGE powered KE10's about. There's a 20 Valve in adelaide, if you look up pictures from previous Toyoshow events, you'll find pictures of it. There's also one from NSW that I've seen a couple of pics of and it's all primer grey. I've not seen a good build thread on one.

No - you still need a pulley to drive the pump regardless of the fan you use. PCD's need to match. There are, from my experience 3 different pulley sizes. The Centre hole changes diameter, and there are 3 PCD sizes. There are 2 common pumps, the third, as far as I can tell, appears to only be on the KE1x's The location of the pulley on the shaft also varies, so you need to make sure your fan belt is in line with your crank pulley. I think (but not certain) that the issue with heater hoses is mainly to do with the thermostat mount, not the water pump. Different versions of this have heater hoses coming out in various spots, as well as emissions gear.