philbey

hmm dunno about that. All motors get condensation in the oil anyway, but the 3 HG's I've dealt with on K engines (and another on a CA18) the indicators was cappucino foam, most likely because of the combustion pressure leaking through into the water jacket. You're runnning hydraulic lifters, I wouldn't worry about that.

Pedal slack is an adjustment issue. Nothing to do with braided lines or fluid. You can adjust the pushrod off the brake pedal, wind it in or out accordingly.

sweet jesus 3 months to build! This thing is wicked. I tried to attach a pic too but it is a dynamic page link so I couldn't do it.... check the NS thread people! edit: SIIIIIIIIIICKKKK!!!!!! and I really don't like ke70's! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8V-FL9-ilsw...player_embedded

Hmm could be points related if it runs nice then dies after a month or so.

Reverse gear doesn't run a synchro. Sounds like the thrust bearing you've got may be incorrect for this setup. I'd pull the box off and check the difference, although you should have been able to adjust it enough to get it to go.

Killrust is an Enamel. It's hard to spray nicely, practice first, it's hard as shit so it doesn't get much from a cut and polish and it may tend to oxiside. I'm with doogs on this, it's easier to paint and easier to get a nice finish but you can't skimp the prep work, toluene thinners may eat up any paint you have underneath it to give a lovely crazy crackle look.

you know what, I'd much rather be paying the bills on servicing a brand new ruckus than have to deal with the bills on an A4. Is it the 1.8T?

Is this the same clutch/pressure plate/flywheel assembly you started with? If it is then the evidence points towards something being cocked up during reassembly. If it's different, I would suspect the pressure plate, when they wear the rivets holding the levers in place get loose and you lose the effective stroke of the levers.

don't mind Evan, after receiving the same answer himself many times for his indiscretions, his only response is "use the search function" If you can find a complete EFI 7K, including the computer and all the necessary sensors and looms, this would be your best option. It's likely to perform better and be a more reliable motor. Whereabouts are you from Fawad, out of interest?

I'm running about .480 valve lift and I cracked a spring. But it took 12 months. Crow 4220's fit nicely. Also, I say just buy a big fat cam and learn to love it... like you would with turbo lag!

It does get read, lots of people who ask these question have read it. The "building a tough K motor" article is a great read, but it's a high level "why and what to do". It doesn't really tell someone where to start with their mods. Lots of people can't afford to dive straight into a complete buildup. I'm planning on writing a follow up article for it, as more of a step by step start here - finish there document. Focusing on the fella who wants to progressively improve his performance without 3 months of downtime while he pullls the motor out and rebuilds it.

When you shift without clutch you'll probably notice the hardest bit is disengaging the first gear, not engaging the next gear. That's because the dogs are fully meshed and you're dragging them across one another under load, so the friction is high. You'll wear the dogs out faster this way. As you come off the throttle though the load shifts from one face of the dog to the other, you need to disengage at that exact moment.

Sounds like it's just running shit when it's cold. Wouldn't worry too much just let it warm up before flogging it. Out of the dizzy or off the sparkplug? It's probably easiest to get a new set, but the rubber boots tend to slide down the cable, just try drag the connection back through the boot. Mortein? No seriously, sounds odd. probably just something loose, check all the bolts etc. Probably about 8 degrees is all you need for a stocker, too much advance could start knocking at high revs.

man I don't go to autobarn as a rule so no, I'm not up to date!

that's what happens when you snort cocaine off the quarter panel while it's running.

yeh but remember that shifting clutchlessly is putting your synchro's under a lot more load and you'll chew them out extra fast. Although it's a mildly impressive party trick especially on a downshift.

So what happened when he left the army, he was allowed to stop double clutching? It's not that difficult, it's like anything once you get the hang of it you can do it without thinking. And yeh total waste of time on a synchro box.

there's some redneck stuff there. EDIT - oh man this one really takes the cake!

WGMG

Been there myself, but I only did 5 kms (CA18 turbo, there's a lobe directly under the cap) and it made a really really big mess. Luckily the cap had slid off the head and wedged in the engine mount so I still had it! I was pulling a bolt off my rocker cover just after I built the 5K and dropped it.... Searched for ages, I heard it hit metal thought it was either on the cross member or my jackstand but no.... it was the sump. Managed to drop it straight down the hole where the dizzy wasn't.

Yeh give me a bit to sort it out. I've been trying to gauge the interest in it, now it seems that there's plenty of people out there to warrant doing it.

hahaha yeah and about 800 horsepower. roofracks, what a pisser.

Leslie(ey?) I have to admire your passionate stance. I haven't seen a toyota that really inspires me about since the Altezza popped on my screen in Gran Turismo and even now everyone has one in it's insipid, underpowered (or automatic) Lexus form anyway. I suppose I've been resigned to the fact that they don't build cars for me and me only for about the last ten years. As for the name, am I the only person that actually likes it?

ryan, already got em shipped. Plus I'm pretty sure I got the last set because I got her to put them aside for a couple of days. Mick, I checked with fulcrum (superpro) before I bought the stuff, some gear was available some wasn't. Interesting enough for those wanting this gear, fulcrum log a "missed sale" everytime people request an item they don't have in stock, when they get enough requests they produce another run of parts. There was one or two sets of rear spring bushes available, 49.43 + 77 bucks for the lot. Idler arm bushes (29.49), none available and no idea how long before more are made. By the time you add 4 tie rods at 20-30 bucks a piece, availability uncertain, Ball joints at a guess 80-100 bucks, uncertain, and Idler arm bushes estimate 30 bucks, that comes to a total of $345 best case. Plus the amount of people on here who've had issues with tie rods and ball joints in the past was the driving reason for buying it all! I paid 300 bucks for the lot. Oh yeah I got to call you about that valve spring compressor (should be on your desk). I'll give you a buzz in the morning, looks like I bought it on the 1st of May according to my bank account.

You can't get em man, nobody stocks em anymore. That's why I jumped on them.