philbey

Timing will be straightforward, your dyno tuner will spend most of his time tuning your carbs to suit.

did I read correctly?

you don't have a "smaller" head with a 3k/4k. You have a head with a larger combustion chamber than the 5K, hence you have less compression. Head doesn't define engine capacity.

Laugh it up guys. I know plenty about a steam car build currently underway. She's hi tech and it'll be a screamer. But there's 25 years of genius design and engineering tied up in it and about 60k last time I was game enough to ask. yes I've seen the motor run. Yes it fits in the engine bay of the car it's designed around. And it's calculated 300hp with instantaneous power delivery.

Which marks are you talking about? Your cam should be ground correctly aligned to the dowel pin. The cam gear has a factory mark on it to align your cam sprocket to the crank sprocket. If you assemble it using the factory method, you should be fine. The only reason you would change the cam-crank sprocket timing is because the cam wasn't ground properly. What I think you are talking about is your Ignition timing; yes you will need to change it from factory. Larger, lopey cams have difficulty idling. There are two options to get around this, either advance your ignition timing (ie setting the marks differnt), or set your idle higher. Advancing the timing is easy enough but without regraphing your dizzy, you can't get too much advance. Lighter flywheels will add to the problem even more. My 5K has a big cam but a stock flywheel, so I get away with about 10 degrees advance and about 1200-1400 rpm idle.

what coln said, it will be slow as shit and have no power.

I can't help you with price, but the brake system test I've seen is pretty straightforward. They use a G meter and a pressure pad on the pedal and perform a number of hard stops from speed, for say 10x stops. The pressure applied the pedal and the g-forces must be within a tolerance band for the 10x stops, be careful of Metal compound pads as the brakes must be cold to start with and they'll change as they heat up. Torsional rigidity tests usually involve a jig to apply a load on a corner and see how much it distorts the chassis. The engineer will need to advise whether those values match the engine fitted to the vehicle. Not sure about the lane change test. You should have no trouble getting a price for the actual tests. If you are asking him to "engineer" your car that's different, because he then needs to take the test results, spend an unknown amount of time checking and calculating and possibly designing the changes he needs you to make to meet the requirements, and then probably re-testing.

Because it's so hard! haha. Definitely been around the clock a couple of times, same with KE10's, people advertise all excited cos of the original low km's and you look at it and it's like it's done half a million, condition wise.

ACL were great to deal with, I dunno why the issues. 5K ones were easy to get and they weren't even sold in the Aus domestic market. Mahle make the pistons, ACL are the distributor for them. Call ACL's number.

chartered accountants?

nuts. did you get that manifold custom cast? Nice looking job for sure, I suspect there is a pattern for it in existence somewhere?

sweet if he's got a lathe, you're set. You probably want to aim for a h7 N6 fit or slightly bigger, using this chart. Any questions how to use the chart, let me know. http://www.wisetool.com/fit.htm#shaft

Hell no, no washers at all. I used the KE1x mounts, I actually intended to use the taller mounts off the 5K to get a bit more room for the dellortos but it didn't fit at all. So perhaps the KE1x mounts differ from the later 3K mounts silverra, the 5K bolts are definitely fine. I actually think they are a super fine, like a 1.25mm pitch instead of a 1.5 pitch (m12 coarse is 1.75). Be careful with this because it is expensive to replace them because of this pitch size. I paid 40 bucks for four m12x1.25x75 long bolts to fit my engine to the stand.

usually involves a fairly expensive vacuum pump setup though. For not a huge gain.

because that would suck?

yeh the fringe is good fun, plenty of atmosphere and shows to see. I was blown away at how many people are milling about all through the fringe, all having fun.

hmmm, I used the 3k mounts on mine no problem? what is this issue you speak of???

if you want to turn up some alloy plugs, there's a really slick way to do it. If you know someone with a good vernier caliper, get a good measurement of the hole diameter (to .0x of a millimetre) and let me know. I can then tell you the right diameter plug to turn. A good machinist should be able to turn an accurate plug to the right diameter for a press fit size. To get them in, get a bit of gentle heat on the mag, and put the plugs in the freezer. might need some slight persuasion but if it's done right they might drop straight in and as the temperatures match, it will be a tight as hell fit.

or more likely tear the diaphragm and fill your sump with petrol.

If rims are bent or chipped you're looking at about 100 bucks per rim to straighten them. Gutter rash would be similar. How much do you expect to get for these rims? I would say that you will easily spend twice to three times more repairing them than anyone will pay to buy them. EDIT oops, just noticed that you're not repairing, you just want to be able to tell buyers.

Hmm, this is the DTEI stance on coilovers. I should get my CPE I can write a nice little report and charge people 500 bucks for it! Aftermarket Suspension Units Aftermarket front and rear suspension units are available that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle’s suspension height to be varied. The adjusting of the threaded spring saddle varies the lower position of the spring and therefore, the vehicle ride height, but does not alter the amount of suspension travel. These are commonly known as coil overs. For these units to be an acceptable alternative to the original manufacturer’s suspension, they must meet the following criteria. They must: - have at least two thirds of the amount of suspension travel of the original suspension system fitted by the manufacturer of the vehicle - have a rubber or other resilient bump stop to limit travel to ensure there is clearance between the coils when the suspension is at full bump - incorporate a permanent locking device on the adjustment mechanism to prevent the adjusting of the suspension that results in the vehicle’s ride being less than that minimum legal height specified for that vehicle. Verification of the above must be in the form of a report from a Chartered Professional Engineer (CPE). The report must specify the measured suspension travel of both the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) suspension arrangement and that of the aftermarket replacement. On receipt of an acceptable engineering report by Vehicle Standards, a Statement of Requirements will be sent to the owner detailing the modifications and any applicable conditions and the vehicle would be required to pass a roadworthiness inspection. Vehicle Standards has a comprehensive list of minimum suspension heights for the majority of vehicles and can be contacted on 1300 882 248.

yeh, the first one was NOS, box was trashed but the gauge was absolutely spotless. The digi was overrated to but used.

check ebay mate, plenty of well priced Mitutoyo gear. Mitutoyo is Jap and make top notch gear. I got one of these on ebay for 28 bucks. Perfect nick, brand new, just a tiny crack on the edge of the lens. But I sold that one to my mate and bought one of these on Ebay for 70 bucks, secondhand but in perfect condition. Accurate to .0008in. (although mine is Metric)

Read this thread So sure, it's a motorbike, and yeah the lens is a hummingbird, but all principles apply. Use existing lens as a pattern for your cast one.

Measuring lift is as simple as putting a vernier caliper across the lobe, that's probably more reliable than a dial gauge anyway! The thing with my proposed method is that you don't unecesasry variables; you're measuring the cam in the exact spot it will reside: the motor. Never fear. You know the score. A couple of V blocks on a mag surface table will be fine, no need for fancy machined bits!! Just a question, where you buying your dial gauges? Because for 1000 bucks, you got stitched up!