philbey

If you weld it will break. What, I don't know. But it will break things, which things nobody can say, most likely welds will fail because you cut corners and didn't do it properly, then the axles will break from the fatigue loading. Also it's common to see front and rear quarter panels fail so I'd stock up on them. It's also illegal so expect defects. Just buy a second corolla that you can register in a hurry.

Yep that's true you got to set it up right. And funnily enough, the same thing applies to carby cars, you have to set it up right. I would vote carby's in this instance because Gecko71 has already stated that he's proficient with carbies. Carbies are more mechanically involved, jetting, linkages, balancing etc. The work you put into getting those things right is akin to spending the time carefully wiring up an EFI motor, so it really comes down to what the individual feels comfortable doing.

You get some custom made strut top plates? Who'd you get to laser cut them, adelaide profile services? What you doing for a crosstube, you putting sphericals on there?

remember that there are 2 different size crank seals, one is 11mm and one is 8mm by memory. You'd only get the thinner one if you ordered a 5K seal I think.

interesting then because my 3k didn't have one of them I'm certain, I would have noticed a detachable pickup, so it's been changed at some point.

So you're going to put your fuel filler (and breather) right behind some electrics and an incandescent globe?

hmm interesting point felix. I do have one of each sump at home I'll compare. But I've got 3 pumps that I swear are identical.

390+430=820 820/0.96=854.16 855 bucks for a set of new wheels is cheap. make that two cool volvo wagons.....

Yeh for sure Darren, if you use the fuel within a week or two I wouldn't expect problems but there are reports of people leaving their cars for 6+ weeks while on holiday and they wont start when they get back! I imagine people in the tropical regions have even more trouble with it, although the Brazilians seem to deal with it easily enough.

I don't think they're any different. You pull the spring out of the pressure relief valve and put a 2mm washer under it. If you have the pump in front of you, just pull it apart and you'll see what I mean. Very simple piece of gear.

Yeh the first e85 counter argument is the reduced calorific value, but the higher RON value allows you to run higher compression and more timing advance, so a motor built and tuned for it should be comparable efficiency wise. Only problem with stocking up on e85 like kangaroosa is that ethanol attracts water so it doesn't take long before you get water in the fuel.

Efficiency is about the only reason for one, and given the thousands spent on maybe 1% gain in gear efficiency, it's only any use for a proper, and I mean proper race car. For the money you spend on the gears you could buy a full set of coilovers or a turbo setup etc. Waste of money for a streeter. And honestly there was a wrx with a straight cut box kicking around near my work and you could hear the piece of shit whining from half a kilometer away.

I've looked into it reasonably extensively. Even the corrosion issue isn't that big a deal, change some hose. My main concern was finding an FPR and Electric fuel pump that will handle it. There was a servo in Adelaide selling E85 as well, but it was only selling if you could demonstrate your car was tuned and capable of running it.

Am I the only one reading this? :blinks: :lol:

Yeh brazing is a good idea, bolt a bellhousing onto it to hold it all in place. You could weld it too but you'll need pre and post heating to prevent cracking.

Whaaaat! how could you mistake them haha.

He plated inside the boot, I'm guessing it's not the actual bolt strength cuzzo was questioning, but the floorpan.

Yep, but I have it on good authority that you can still install a clutch in without the cup on the firewall. *looks shiftily from left to right*

what's a good IR thermometer worth Trev? I've been thinking of getting one, if there's a 50 buck special out there that's good, let me know.

I also facepalmed. Actually, I reckon that converting the auto to a K engine manual will be easier than converting to a 4AC manual, all he needs is a Ke70 K engine pedal box and a holesaw should do it. Mounting the Hydro setup would be a little trickier, although not that much.

very crudely, you need to determine - volume of your piston dish - head combustion chamber volume - bore x stroke (Swept volume) this calculator is a simple one: http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html Better calculators will also look at crown to ring distance, diameter at top ring, diameter at crown, etc. You really should work this out, I ended up with very high compression because the only new pistons I could buy had a much smaller dish in them than the factory ones (9cc instead of ~21cc).

nah K blocks are flat on the bottom, so that's a start! Would look kind of cool with the head poking through too. And cast iron, "weight is sign of reliability."

chokes will be fine, don't worry too much about the jets if you're going to the dyno tuner, let them sort that out.

mine made 68rwkw with rather high comp, over 11:1. can't recall exactly I have my build calcs somewhere. I also have a big mystery cam (hence I get away with that comp) I don't know proper duration specs but it runs .480 inches of lift which is big. The comp is the main reason I make that power and I'd have problems if I went for a milder "street" grind cam.

make it out of a K engine!! Just a little coffee table. Keep in mind the bigger the block the heavier the table! and CHEEEP like a budgie. Any V8 block that is cool will probably be worth money. A good block would be the 1UZ one as it's alloy. Oh the irony with the wine bottles is that the sort of person with that in their living room wouldn't strike me as a discerning wine Connoisseur...