philbey

Gavclassic built a mean 7K on carbies for his KE15/17?

flat black looks alright on this. But it's been hackneyed now, flat blacking your supercar is fairly 2007.

some white K-sev driver tooted me on portrush road last night, was parked outside the royal thai restaurant. followed the sak wags down lonny highway today too.

I ran this stuff in mine at idle for over an hour. No kidding, I just drained my rad of coolant last night and it was sooooo damn clean. I dunno if it gets river pebbles out but it got rid of all the crap left over from cooking my head gasket a while ago. Hmm this story sounds awfully familiar!!

I'm assuming you've done your balancing as best you can? Some dellorto's you can actually balance the individual throats, later DHLA's (G's and on I think) don't have the balance screws, you can only balance via the linkage. Buy the book kangaroosa suggested and have a fiddle. I think the biggest problem you'll have is getting hold of jets and emulsion tubes, I rang around every carby joint in adelaide and none stocked this gear. I had intended to get the correct sized based on the theory and get a couple either side of that to play with, but no luck. Gem Parts (Ebay) stocks some but they're not cheap. In the end, I found out that my local dyno tuner is an Alfa nut and knows Dell's backwards. I had it tuned, went from 45kw to 68.5 kw and nearly 2 years later it's still running strong. I've not touched anything. As Red said, you'll just spend all your time listening to your induction noise (except it sounds like a tractor on idle)

yep.

this is sounding suspiciously like the same issues I had with my coil. Losing power and spark, coughing and spluttering. Intermittent problem, huge difference one day to the next, sometimes all the way through the rev range, sometimes only under heavy load. try another coil.

Check plugs. Also could maybe be a dead coil.

Kind of rings a bell. can't think for sure though.

Yep you'll needa syringe and a flat piece of glass to work out the volume of the head. Download dynamic compression ratio calculator from This link and read the full page. You'll also need to measure your pistons, deck heights etc to get all the info. Once you get cam specs, you will need to punch them into the DDR as well. Aim for a dynamic comp ratio, not just static comp.

I scored a brand new set off Ebay for 120 bucks delivered, someone had purchased and never used. I think they're closer to the 250 mark new from HM. Des, fitment is spot on, KE10's have tight space and I had absolutely no trouble missing the floorpan, idler arm, steering arm and gearbox crossmember.

what year, what model?

HM headers are alright, I'm running them on mine.

I say build this engine, spend a shitload, make a bunch of horsepower that still wont beat your mums falcon. Enjoy every moment when you fire up this thing and it's lumpy, so lumpy, on idle it froths up your beer and scares grannies when you drive past 'em and they drop their shopping. Most race corolla's are running the 4K because of the class restriction, not because they're better than a 5K. Sensible point doogs, puttin 80+mm pistons into a 4K just turns it into a 5k of sorts I suggest you just build the motor on a slant. I built mine with the dellorto's for about 2000, tuned. A very rare upright kit just sold on here for 1000 bucks! You wont see huge gains from uprighting and there's and you can always upgrade the motor later on. The biggest gain is found in space in the engine bay, it's difficult getting air cleaners to fit on sidedraft carbies in a Ke1x engine bay. Look at my pics. Good attitude, build what you want, spend what you can, forget the "do the body first" "do the brakes" bullshit. You asked about building a race motor, not "what should I do to my car first". You can do brakes and suspension while you wait for your engine to come back from the machinist. My car handles like shit, but it screams. And now I fixed the oil leak, I love it again. Don't bother with things like forged rods, 400 bucks you can spend elsewher. If you're really serious though you could regrind the crank to stroke it. Nobody ever talks about K engine cranks breaking. Spend the money on balancing it so it revs. Get a dirty great big cam, dial up the compression, spend 500 bucks on getting the head to breathe better, slap on twin sidedrafts rip skids, axle tramp, make noise, upset neighbours, freak out some squares!

yes I made a foolish assumption but hey, it's prompted some funny responses. I had a teacher who would make you write A LOT on the blackboard in 6 foot letters in front of the class if he caught you writing Alot in your homework. Gold.

mate this thing is BESERK. I read a few custom chopper/bobber bike mags and websites and Swede's have got there shit together with bikes too. Must be something to do with the cold, promotes creative thought!

please CLICK

I'm still thinking about the MSD's from the US, if you can wait a little bit, I'll get 2 blaster coils.

that's fine, but how are you controling the air pressure in your fuel bowl? Do you have a pilot line to the fuel bowl, or perhaps you have boxed up the carby?

is it a pulsating sort of noise? I'm guessing you've put a wheel out of balance and any loose bits are making noise when you hit the out of balance harmonic.

I'll admit I'm pretty anti et so ky bias might show. I had a couple of mates that dropped lots of dough building hot et's and they never had much on my ca18det poobird.

I still maintain it will be slower, for the money spent, than another conversion. That's including the purchase price. A good CA18DET with all the gear like comp loom and box will be 1000 bucks and you could fit that in much easier than the E15. What about the oil pump pickup, dizzy, water pipework, flywheel/clutch setup. A FWD-RWD conversion like this won't be expensive because of the cost of the motor, it will be expensive because of the fiddly little jobs like those. EDIT - And yes it will be slow because ET pulsars are slow. And shit. I'd rather have syphillis. :lolcry:

Man that's dodgy! was it a "new" or was it a "reco". Crazy.

ahh the good old Option 1 box.

Forget it. It will be difficult, expensive and will be slow. For the money you spend you could put a much better motor.