philbey

there was a set on ebay the other day.

gday mate, merry christmas and all that. Your question is a bit open ended; if you bought it with all the looms and gear, it should all plug up. Search the net you should be able to find a 4age wiring diagram, or if you've got some more specific questions, ask away. I'm not too familiar with the 4age myself, but a couple of guys here are gurus.

yeh see how you go mate and let us know.

Yeh was going to get a couple of these for the Nazi sled, glad to hear they come highly recommended.

Coilovers, best cheapest option would be the HSD sleeve kit from these guys: http://otomoto.com.au/HDSystems/sleevekits.htm

Ahhh external regulators, a thing of the past for me!

was that you boosting down hutt street last night?

The only problem with club rego is that you need the engine to be registered in the car as they will do an ID check on the numbers and they'll need to match the DTEI numbers. Might need to get rid of the 5 spokes otherwise they're alright, the dude from up our way (Blackwood) is a Honda S600 nut top bloke, he'll roll around and look over it and chat to you about old cars.

this thing is nuts mate. Good to see a true 1 owner car!

Read this http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=10527

haha a high revving factory K engine! Any idea when they were ever made.

DTEI will tell you if it's stolen or not. No need for regency, you should be able to check over ezyreg.com.au I don't think you'll be able to go to MB, I think I asked the question and you have to live out there. I'd try for lonsdale first.

That doesn't make sense, you want the roller to be harder because it does more "kilometers" than the cam lobe and will wear more. Same applies for gears, always make the smaller gears harder as it wears quicker. Billet for 170 is a good price, just run with it. Also, you avoid issues with fatigue on a 40 year old cam that's reground. Also, regrinding an old cam you can probably end up getting very thin with the case hardening and delaminate. A billet cam will be hardened after the grind so it would be nice and thick.

Agree totally, jesus just answer their question if it's a reasonable one. The other thing that's been shitting me off is people flaming with "READ THE FAQ" then after a bit of a look.... Oh right, the answer to your question isnt even in the FAQ.

I don't think it even needs to go to regency for an ID check, you can make appointments at other places (murray bridge, Lonsdale).

behold the radness

also passed first go, 2 lessons then a test. BAM. Had a couple of points docked because I went around a left turn slipway and was a little far over to the right hand side of the slipway. What horseshit, but I got it. Dad used to be a driving instructor years before I started driving though, probably helped....:)

I'm with dave, it's unlikely that you need to spend 300 bucks on a new radiator. For 90 bucks, I had a radiator shop pull the tanks off, clean the core out completely, resolder the tanks on, pressure test and paint. If it still gets hot then your issue lies elsewhere is my bet.

getting the car ready for murray bridge on the 30th?

sweer, anyone with a VRS kit, scan those suckers at 1:1, put a small ruler on the scanner as well to calibrate and post em up here. I don't use the ball pein trick, I like a neater finish. I put a very thin smear of clean oil on the mating surface, press it onto the gasket, the oil shows the outline on the paper and then hand cut with a scalpel. Punch the holes and your done.

One word - INERTIA. I'd take a safe small car over a safe large car any day. http://www.ancap.com.au/crashtestrecord?Id=249 http://www.ancap.com.au/crashtestrecord?Id=223 In my materials science class I did a project on steel vs aluminium/composites for building cars. High strength low alloy steels meant they could make 25% lighter vehicles. You know what the trend was across the auto industry - 25% bigger cars. If you can make the same car 25% lighter, you're safer already. Look at the stats from this report. Chances are you're more likely to get killed in a single car crash (hitting trees etc) and if that's the case, less inertia = better chances.

Wont necessarily bend valves, remember that you've got the lifters to compress first and then if there's enough clearance in the motor you could get away with it. and for the third time, check comp and check your lifter preload. Otherwise you might be barking up the wrong tree.

Yeh defintely get me a proper 1-1 scan of those gaskets if you've got them. Put a ruler on the copier next to it as well so that way I can check sizes.

Ahh, yeh should have clarified that, paper gaskets only, can't do metals, i don't have a big enough LASER! Paper gaskets, like fuel pump, water pump, timing cover. I reckon there's one of those that is hard to find on a K engine.

Can't answer your piston question but but 6:1 is too low for anything.