philbey

KE70s make my eyes bleed. I reckon it's great.

TW Engineering in St Agnes API engines in Lonsdale. Used them both, both good.

wow that sound like a killer price for a shortening, you got mates rates on that didn't you?

haha funny shit. good to see the thread back up.

could it have much to do with the fact that most of them are arse draggin on chopped springs falcon springs, rattling the passengers fillings out as it bounces over sewer lids, covered in primer with a shite load of camber on the front?

Dizzy is most likely a tooth or two out. You can rotate the oil pump drive with a flathead screwdriver so you can line up a different tooth on the cam

I wouldn't bank on that Evan, the early corollas ran no resistor, later ones did.

Yeh not sure med man, that can be tested can't it? I had an auto elec do it once before. Felix not sure exactly what alternator they'll give me, I can't find any info on Champion alternators. I'll grab it regardless and rewire the cooked leads.

Man this is lookin fly with those front springs henry. Can't wait to see it in the flesh! Might get some of those springs, do they come off the perch at full extension?

just texted him, his stash of goodies is only over the hill from my place! Incidentally I read up this on a toymods thread about the GT40's http://apps.bosch.com.au/motorsport/downloads/ignitioncoils.pdf Seems all I need to know is what resistances I need, and that way I can choose one of these coils. Anyone shed some light on Resistance?

No regulator replacement. I suspect that there was a poor connection with the first Alternator, hence the drop in/out scenario. Then when I replaced alternator I might have got something to connect or disconnect better hence it's not dropping out now. I connected the regulator to earth, but I never ran the car like this; I basically shorted the starter motor high tension lead to earth via the alternator casing. Path of least resistance, the regulator shouldn't have seen any current. To be safe I just got back from Repco and they have no listing for a regulator.... Time to call Mick. BUT they have a brand new "champion" alternator on clearance for 45 bucks so I've ordered that in anyway. If I get really lucky it might be internally regulated! Benno thanks for the tip, I can't really touch the damn car for a few days, I'll give that a shot next week.

While we're talking about them Doug, do you have any more info on these transistor coils? I did find some info but there's a few different ones, perhaps you have a part number on yours, I'll just order that particular one?

I went looking for one of the black transistor coils from Sprints but the dude was.... slightly difficult (mick I know but I'm nowhere near norwood!!) and wouldn't sell me one of the black ones for an elec dizzy too hard, car specific etc etc.... I just got what the Bosch book said to get. As for the curve, I do want to get an MSD programmable anyway, so it'll be lock time anyway. I might just get one of these GX80's and throw it on there. Mick?

Okey dokey, I swapped my starter the other week and I managed to guff up in a most astounding fashion and screwed up my alternator. I've got an externally regulated Denso unit and when I was connecting to the B terminal I didn't realise the plastic bush had dropped out, directly contacted to the alternator casing (ie earth), reconnected the battery and FSSSSSHHHHHT + smoke occurred. I managed to cook the wire back to the starter pretty well, I now realise that I basically connected the starter lead to earth, via the little white wire between the starter and the alternator.... Ouch. See red circled section on the photo below. The wires got some melty bits, I didn't have time to rewire it so I repaired what damaged sections I could. Over the next couple of weeks I had charge issues, but intermittent ones. Charge light would come on, then off, sometimes I'd hit a bump and it would go brighter or duller. Coming home at night and I was running off battery alone (could tell because the stereo would shut of when I flicked the headlights or the thermo fan) then all of a sudden it came good again, charging fine, thermo's fine, radio fine. That alternator was only making about 12.5V so I swapped it out for another identical denso unit. NOW this new alternator is showing a constant but faint charge light, but doesn't flicker on and off intermittently. Alternator is producing 13.8V across terminals but I am losing charge, I've left it on the charger every night except last night, and I've run out of juice today. Here's my theory: My alternator and regulator appear to be fine, but my charge issues may be due to the melted wires? Anyone confirm that theory?

Now that I think of it, BR wont help starting over a non BR setup LOL, like you said it must be for point preservation. I suspected the same, people putting the wrong type of coil in and blowing them. I'll probably swap it to the Can type as well, they look cooler.

Yeh that's what I was erring towards anyway, I've since discovered that the KE1x never ran a ballast resistor, so the coil I'm running is the stock one. It's been fine with my elec dizzy. It would appear that the KM36 liteace had one hence the confusion with the Bosch catalogue. Any advantage to fitting a ballast resistor? Easier starting etc? Are these GT40's alright or not, it would appear people have trouble with them failing, I suspect due to using the wrong unit without resistors etc? And finally, any major difference to the Can style GT40 and the resin filled style? I might get the can one now that I'm returning this one.

Dig Dig Digging. This is a good thread, I'm about to change coils on my 5K. I have the same internal ignitor 5K dizzy, and I've bought a GT40 coil (resin filled type) for the car. BUT! The bosch catalogue shows that I needed a GT40R which requires a resistor, and that's what I've bought. I don't currently have a ballast resistor. This has me confused, I now have 2 options: buy a ballast resistor and fit it to this coil, or get the Non-resistor coil and just run that (preffered option). Is there any particular preference either way? Med Man? And adding to that, these GT40 coils have "for Points ignition only" written all over them, but this is the exact unit Bosch recommend.... WTF?

There's a bloke in adelaide that modifies the old celica (?) 14 inch stockies and redrills them to 4x110 that's why there's so many ke10's in adelaide running them. He's mates with Scott.

definitely your fault. You might have got away with only bent pushrods but you should even pull the head off and check you haven't bent any valves. You should never start a motor after a pulldown without turning it over by hand first. Even then, I've had mates turning over by hand (ie with a socket on the crank nut) and there was enough mechanical advantage to bend valves then.

8cc (ACL) vs 22cc (stock D dish)

$300. Steering wobble at highway speed will be due to balancing. Or lack thereof.

whaaaaat?

Yeh I second that, no need for lift just to get the engine lope. If you really want to do it, run a milder grind that lopes like Red said. Also, a light flywheel will help, I run a stock flywheel with a large cam and I don't get much lope. Also back your timing down as much as you can. As for the one-upmanship Mitch and 7four7, take it no further please.

Not necessarily , big cams have big overlap and boost will push straight out the exhaust port. I'm fairly certain the 3K sump wont even fit the 7K block, 3k's are different from 4k and 5k sumps, and the 7K might even be different again. Probably easier to chop the 7K sump.

and let's leave it at that.