philbey

Ouch, that would have stopped in a real hurry.

No, a pusher thermo definitely makes a difference when moving, even at 100kmh I notice it runs cooler than without it. It's not the rad then. My biggest issue (5K with a KE20 radiator) is that I lose water all the time, an overflow is a danm useful thing, in summer, I would be topping my car up 1-2 times a week. Even a half a litre lost makes a big difference to the heat capacity of the cooling system. I'm thinking of fitting a stainless one off Ebay, PWR make a very nice item but its damn expensive. For the price of a thermostat, I would just by a new Tridon one. I used put this in and a cap and it made no difference though lol. Also, I was running the electronic dizzy. What sort of thermofan have you got? I bought an expensive davies craig and it pushes a lot of air. It has a reversible fan as well, cheap ones do not and they are not made to run as a push fan because of shitty blade design. Reversing polarity "works" but nowhere near as efficient. The blades on the Davies craig ones are MUCH better than the cheap Calibre and Sonic junk. In the end I reckon my overheating was due to the head being on its way out. Your motor isn't a fresh build is it?

You can still swap the bolts out, just do it one by one if you've bolted the plate back together. The bolts most likely snapped from corrosion, so new ones will be more reliable.

Yeh a flush could be a good idea. Mine got hot for a while with my toyoglide then eventaully the head just packed it in coming home on a really cooking summers day.

honestly you don't need to have it welded, clean the mating faces off properly and use sealant and a new gasket like you've done, then replace the bolts with new ones and it'll be another 30 years before you have to worry about it.

My money is down that you've got your fuel bowls at atmospheric pressure. If so, tuning will get you nowhere, post up more details of the setup

You don't need a leakdown kit if you have a welder. I smashed a sparkplug up and gutted the threaded section, then we welded a small piece of tube into the centre of the sparkplug. Total cost = $0 and the hardest part was actually smashing the guts out of the sparkplug. By the way, you can buy the tool if you can't be bothered. I reckon T&E tolols make one. http://www.tetools.com/catalogue.html

Actually, that looks pretty good, there's some shit around there because of the old gasket etc but the actual waterjacket looks pretty good. Nothing a bit of gasket remover and a paint scraper won't clean up. Your best and easiest bet would be to try easy outs. These are only mild steel bolts, so you can drill it easy and you should be able to pull it out easy enough. Now that the bolt is snapped there is little to no load on the thread so it should wind out easily enough. Just get some ezy outs and very gently drill a hole down the guts of the bolt. MAKE SURE YOU USE THE CORRECT SIZE EZY OUT. Most ezy outs snap because people use one that's too small. Also, before you wind it out, get a blowtorch onto the area around the broken bolt. Aluminium expands more than steel, so even raising the temp 50-60 degrees will make a big difference to how easily that bolt comes out. You shouldn't have too many issues doing this on a built motor, just apply light heat to the spot, just get it so it's too hot to touch. EDIT - I reckon you'll be fine to remove the head and reassemble without upsetting the gasket. The hole on the back of the head is from manufacturing, it's where the internal core of the mold is secured into the outside cavity of the mold, that's how they cast the internal details of the water jacket etc.

Dude did you even read any of this thread?

I got a price over the phone and both were the same. Collusion anyone? I took my Enkei in Adelaide Wheel and Rim works to have rerolled and they were fine, turned it out in a couple of days and I can't even work out which rim it was that got rolled now.

Easily said Doug but given the amount of bitsers around the place people could be putting donks together with any mix of parts. Plus head decking will increase preloaded. Mine were getting close to too high but I ran them without shimming.

110hp with the head work and valves should well be possible. cool. Sounds like you know your shit, I look forward to seeing plenty of engine build pics!

Basically the hard bit is measuring preload accurately. 1. You need to very very gently assemble the rocker shaft into the head with the lifters and rods. Don't tighten therocker post bolts up straight away, this needs to be done very slowly, usually by hand. 2.As you tighten them up you should keep checking the pushrods to see if there's any backlash in them. As you feel that lash just take up (like an eighth of a turn on the bolts) you stop there. Check and recheck the rods you need it to be just on that cusp of backlash/no backlash 3. using a razor blade sitting on the top face of the head, mark a line across each pushrod by holding it flat, hard up against the rod and spin the rod with your fingers. 4. Once rods are marked, torque up the rocker post bolts so that they are fully bolted down. Mark another line using the razor method. 5. Pull the rods out and use a vernier to measure the distance between the 2 lines. Most people aim for about 40-60thou or 1-1.5mm of preload. Remember that the rods are on a slight angle to the face of measurement so you should do some pythagoras and all that what not. 6. If your preload is too small you will likely need to have your rocker posts machined down. If you have too much you will have to buy some shim material and cut out shims to fit under the rocker posts. 7. Rev its nuts off and do skids.

the build date might have been 73 but sold in 1974 as a 74, so it'd just be an early model I'd say. Remember that in order to get the "new model" into dealerships it would have been built in japan then slapped on a boat to get here in time.

This is exactly my thought on the matter; people spend a lot of time agonising over a solid conversion and honestly won't see much power gain, just rattly noise gain. lol Also, that point about the Toyota gaskets is interesting! I'll remember that...

Sounds a little crazy to me too, I'm guessing this is a BMW power steering rack somehow bolting "straight in" to a car with a steering box....?

yellow 25 with the black bonnet I'm guessin! Saw abbott parked in blackwood somewhere. who's driving that red KE70 with the visor I see it all the time on blacks road/lonny highway almost could have high fived him this morning! And I saw the FX 2 door 82 the other day on coro parade, I'm guessing it was bugz?

Nuts. Post more pics man. And run hydro's, all the cool kids are doing it.

Hmm good idea, I've never bothered looking at bracing mine because the steering box is sloppier than a 4 buck hooker, but I'm about to swap over to a KE20 box so I might have a think how to do it.

I put a lot of work in to check my lifters were set to the 40-60 thou preload on mine, it's actually a real pain in the arse to check it. I suspect the main reason mine don't seem to cause trouble is because they don't see long sustained revs like a race car. Also, looking at the hydro lifters in my 5K they seem to have quite a lot of clearance anyway, i'd like to compare to some actual anti pumpup lifters. Interesting about killing those hydro's, what exactly happened to them Cam? Did they just tear up the bottom faces?

adelaide gets a public holiday for the Adelaide cup. Just that nobody cares about the horse race.... Yep. Same.

Thank you for that insight. I already built one. With hydros. That's why I want to know why there is a fascination with Hydro lifters, both myself and coln72 have hard revving 5K's on hydros, mine's been running for 2 years as a daily, occasionally hitting high revs, with no trouble.

Thanks to the stupid RAIN I had to cancel my bobcat plans for the weekend. So I reckon I'll be sitting under the verandah watching the vege's get a water while I sand my Enkeis! Two of the rims had chunks missing on the lip, I had Natrad on Halifax street lay some awesome welds down, I'll hand finish with a file, sand them and polish. Drop them all off for tyres somewhere this week.

ahh I just thought that the accessible relief was so you could depressurise the line before removing it. HMM - just looked at the picture in this PDF. Figure 7 shows a piston valve with a screw on it. You could back the screw off but this will be really unreliable, best way to set the pressure would be either change the spring or put a washer under the screw.

Flywheel hp is greater than wheel hp.