philbey

Hi all. In the past I've seen people hunting down replacement gaskets, and often they can't get them without buying a new part (water pump etc) or a complete VRS kit. I may be able to help out, if you can let me know of any you can think of that are a pain to find let me know. Not just Corolla gaskets, any gaskets you've had trouble finding in the past. Let me know if I get enough interest then I might get some made up.

mate what you going to do with that radiator?? I might be interested in looking after it for you if you know what I mean?! does it bolt up to the standard mounts and still allows the front rad support to bolt in?

oh yeh, toyospares... edelmaier street, it all comes back to me. Never bought there, i made a few phone calls to them years ago and decided to take my business elsewhere.

and even before the van sale, there was the bbq and the bmx bike, it'd be nice to see something a tad more original on the old Ebay these days!

Like I said, did you check your lifter preload? Because this will identify problems like you mentioned. Do a compression check.

Women... why does it take an 800 buck power bill before they listen to you about their air conditioner habits... haha.

Definitely compression test it. Have you checked the lifter preload and all that Jazz? Check your dizzy, you only need to be a couple of teeth out and it could be no go. Just because it backfired doesn't mean it's in the right spot. I once wired my dizzy on my 911 as 1-6-5-4-3-2 instead of 1-2-3-4-5-6 and it started up and ran, it just wouldn't rev nicely!!

I just counted the number of splines on my tailshaft (ie top of spline or bottom of spline, the number is 1 different) and then went to the wrecker, they had buckets of front uni's that they'd just gas axed out of the car. I reckon there's a 19 spline and a 21 spline. Then I took the tailshaft to a driveline joint and they rebuilt it and swapped the yoke over.

it would have to be shit hot condition to get more than 3 grand for it.

Yeh a mate of mine used to have one, good fun car but when it started breaking things it got expensive quickly. Did a radiator hose that meant lifting the engine, that was 1000 bucks gone.

Tyler?

nice shorts :laff:

R31's are like cheap whores, you get all sorts of strange things off them.

I already edited the first post Mystik to add All Clutch and Brake. These guys are top notch, good prices honest service etc.

Mate top work on the car. Just a question, are you running an electronic dizzy on that 5k? It appears that your sprinter tacho dash works well and I just wanted to check that's with the elec dizzy or points dizzy. cheers TP.

I bought 2 5K's in pieces, for 100 bucks each. Not hard to come buy, if you need a good motor in a hurry call Peter Robinson automotive in Oakleigh. Otherwise, keep your eyes open here. The only sensible reason to build a 3K over a 5K is because certain racing classes will require you to run a 3K. Otherwise, 5K is by far the best bet.

He probably advanced the spark as much as he could which would probably smooth out your idle.

Buy a thread file and clean up the thread. Easy. Most hardware joints or automotive joints should have one. Very useful tool to have around.

Legume? Instigator raises a good point, perhaps more moderation would help. To be honest I try to avoid moderating too much, if you have ever been on the jockey journal its renowned for having Nazi mods and I try not to be like that. But if the constant inane threads are turning away good valued members then thats pretty serious. More feedback people.

Evan the heater is going cold because the leaking combustion pressure forces your water out of the water jacket and as the heater hoses are at the highest point they run out of water first.

Exactly which thing on the dizzy did you put that wire on? Pics perhaps?

It depends - from the factory, the timing cover is fitted with two studs that prevent you from easily removing the timing cover. Many people replace these studs with machine screws (bolts) which means they're much easier to remove. The downside of bolts is that you can grossly overtighten them and destroy a gasket. If you still have studs, don't worry, you only need to lower the sump enough to get them clear to pull the timing cover off. with a Jack, a set of axle stands, a couple of socket sets with extenders and universal joints you can drop the sump enough. Basically, put your car up on the axle stands, put the jack underneath the gearbox, undo your engine mounts and jack the gearbox and motor up. You need to play with the heights a little depending which sump nuts you undo, some are easier if it's lower, some are easier if it's higher. Also, take the engine mounts off completely, it's not difficult to do and will give you much more room. A socket with extender is easy, a 3/8 drive is idea, I have a 1/2 drive and it's too big to do the back nuts and a couple over the crossmember with a uni on it. You can actually remove a sump with the motor in the car, it's tricky but I've done it plenty of times. BUT - be warned, the hardest bit is bolting the sump back in properly. I'd put in a new gasket as a must and DO NOT use silicon. Permatex No 5 non hardening gasket is the ducks nuts for sealing a sump and don't tightent it very much.

Tell me about it. I love the General mechanical /KExx mechanical forums (moderator by default haha) but lately it's the same old repeat question from people obsessed with 3K bigport heads and solid lifters. When is someone going to ask some decent questions haha. I've also noticed that threads die a lot quicker than they used to... lots of short attention spans (read high schoolers) Dunno what it is. I'm guessing that we're getting much higher traffic and that means more shit. Good threads get forgotten with a deluge of stupid threads about E7's. Having said that, in the while I've been on the forum it's pretty interesting seeing some of the "high schooler" crowd go from dumb questions and off topic prattle and develop into valued members of the forum. (Trev being the exception) Haha, if I see "Last Post by Trev at xx:xx" I always read it. I reckon more good detailed technical stuff is what we want. Maybe a rehash of the FAQ might spur some of this?

I think he wants a shift light on it.

I think auto one stock this book, you should buy it. :lolcry: