philbey

that's a weapon, imagine that motor in something even lighter like a 10 or 20!

Air Con?

Hi there mate.

The exhaust is easy and has no real issues getting it done with out the other mods. Carby, a nikki upgrade with stock cam would probably be fine too. I would go Exhaust Carb Cam. Putting a Cam in first would just be silly, I'm sure you understand why. Removal of the Cam is actually fairly straightforward in the K engine, even though at first glance it wouldn't appear so. - Rocker cover off - rods and lifters out - drop sump - pull off timing cover - remove dizzy - remove timing chain - something else... (i forget exactly what stops the cam from floating) - pull cam out. The only real thing you can screw up is re-timing the cam and crank, but following the steps in a manual, it is very very easy.

I've done a couple with two of us, one on top of each front fender and a rope wrapped down and around under the block and back. Just lift straight up with your knees and someone on the floor to steer the end of the gearbox.

And even then, pffft, KE20 owners wish they had a KE10 anyway.

morgzz I'm just going to say this one thing: Welcome to automotive hell. My old bluey wagon had heaps of grunt with a fairly spicy CA18 turbo in it, but it was like having a real bitch of a girlfriend that's a good shag; riding it was heaps of fun, but finally the other problems will get to you and you will hate it.

sounds like an illegal rebirth to me. I'd be very wary of this car. KE10's have the numbers stamped into the firewall as well, so if it mismatches something shifty is going on.

bingo. Even the old mercs were going that way and then all of a sudden they've become a bit of a collectable, everyone buying them and slamming them.

My response is.... No. Not a waste at all. If there was ever a marque that has no dignity in old age it's the Jag XJ. This bodyshape only ever got superficial updates in something like 30 years and there are sooooooo many ratty, shitty old ones around, it's like a blight. Seriously, search Ebay for Jaguar <$1500 and There's about 10 of them, not to mention their Daimler counterparts. It's no surprise that a 1998 model isn't worth much more than scrap, it's got very little to distinguish it from a 30 year legacy of peeled paint and rust! Not to say I haven't considered buying on to pimp around in, hell even the V12s come up cheap.

Prick of a spot? You've not worked on many starters before? K engine starter is one of the easiest to remove that I've worked on LOL Anyway, sounds like your solenoid is knackered if you're not getting it to spin up - Solenoid is a mechanical switch that connects the current for the actual motor to spin, so if it doesn't kick out, you don't get current to the actual motor.

mmmm 151. Flame arrester cap and a Flammable Liquid class symbol on the label....

There's your problem to begin with. If you want to watch something half sensible in the morning while breakfasting and get ACTUAL news, ABC2 has breakfast news. Not just this media hyped, granny polarising, housewife stimulating junk on channel 7 and 9

haha, yeh I was just taking the piss. Toothed belt drives are the most efficient belt drive there is but only if they're tensioned to spec. Overtension them and it becomes a pointless exercise.

If you're focusing on doing all this work on the 5K anyway, what's the point on pulling out the 4K to do the same work, just to pull it out later for the 5k?

gilmer drive hey, make sure it's nice and tight, the more louder it is the more power you'll net from it.....

pretty decent ports? like as in nice and rough from the original casting. There's plenty of people that home job this, but it's not just a matter of opening it as much as you want and yay, more power. If you want to give it a very light touch and polish out the casting marks then sure, get into it.

I had the same bios issue as well, wouldn't recognise so I just fiddled something in the BIOS.

Cam regrinding is very specific work, you're not going to get the dopey apprentice working on it. THere is a joint out north, look up KE20 trav's ride thread and have a read, he got his cam done somewhere.

nothing stupid with pearls in it. I'm not even a fan of metallics on these things. Get a nice straight base colour. Flat paint is done to death and there's loads of white ones in adelaide. If I built one fresh, I'd paint the sucker deep gloss black. My wagon I'm going to respray in the same red that's on it one day, but an orange or yellow KE would be sick, maybe even a dark green?

If I were you, I'd get a Ramflo but put a uniflow replacement filter element in it, the actual ramflo ones are pretty coarse whereas the Uniflow is a proper 2 stage oiled item. I had my Uniflow catch fire and it just smouldered away, never actually caught fire.

And you might just have to search through pages of info to find that info. The search function is handy but just like google etc you still have to read a hell of a lot. Just start skim reading every thread that has a title that sounds relevant. also when you look at the pages of search results, you'll see the forum it's in is listed too, you can immediately skip past wanted and sale threads, and even regional ones when you're just after tech info.

Yo, Mick. I'm always after different projects to practice my TIG skills, I'd love to drag the welder down your way and zap a few panels here and there if you're keen? Floorpan stuff i'm keen to tackle because I can get plenty of thin gauge practice but don't have to stress out about heat warping cosmetic panels!

just get big arse carbs so you never run the risk of filling the bowls Mick!!! What sort of Orbital did you get a half sheet square one or a Random orbital?

Keep ringing around, I had the same problem with my AE86 in Melbourne, lots of joints just kept telling me they couldn't get one for that car....