LittleRedSpirit

Reading the service manual for S engines last night, they referred to the little metal tang placed through the hole in the thermostat as the jiggle valve and it is supposed align with a metal tang on the thermostat housing, and you guessed it, when installed correctly it points to the top of the hose.

Amazon came through with a water pump complete with the rear housing. Box turned up open at the edge, but luckily the gaskets and seals seem to have remained inside on the trip from the USA. Its AISIN, it literally has Toyota ground off it. Considering installing the bypass and heater hoses from a 5sfe to go with it, because then I can get the benefit of the oil cooler/warmer that they always have, the rwd S motors dont run it, I dont know if for space or because they pre date the use of them, but I think it will fit. Noticed the exhaust on the car has got no flanges anywhere, its one solid piece from engine to muffler tip, including headers. LOL> Looking like this weekend I might get to strip off the manifolds, throttle body, water pump, the timing belt, and freshen it all up. I'm hoping the reason it stumbles on the gas might be that there is an inlet vacuum leak at the throttle body or manifold gasket. The TB gasket is shitty and has failed I know from having it off before, but I want to replace the leads and dizzy cap just in case as they are original 1992 dated items and there's a lot of wear on the dizzy terminals. This ebay toe rag finally sent my item, so i have the S motor mechanical repair guide now. I need to make sure the warning light is hooked up from the ecu so I can get fault codes. Good thing is the manual has the wiring description for the warning circuit so i can make sure its good first. Hopefully the lower radiator hose comes today and I have all the bits ready for the weekend.

I suppose there may be. Despite the throttle being in a similar spot ra65 cable is too short. Maybe 2 inches. SA63 far too short I suspect. AE86 has the narrow pcd and is too short so that rules out corolla platform cables. I used to have a pile of different ones but I cant find any lying around.

Got all the gaskets, still waiting on waterpump and hose. Looking for throttle cable for this, I need one with 44.5 or 45mm PCD and with a 24 inch housing give or take. Help a brother out if you can.

Lazy stupid ebay sellers. Guy sells me a manual for s motor. I paid on the day I won, the 21st of December. Waited patiently until just the other day. Guy asks whats up have I got it. I say no. He starts making excuses right away before I say anything much, so I got the shits and called out his bs. He had sent a message right as I won saying the Post office was closed when it was clearly still open until the 24th, so basically I immediately was able to work out what a fucking loser the guy was. I didn't press him until he messaged me on Australia day to 'make sure' I had it. Of course I didn't, and he had not sent a tracking number so I had no ability to do anything about it if I had wanted to anyhow. It was just on trust up until then, over a month after buying it, and he had just fucked around and didn't seem keen to fit a trip to the PO into his life on my behalf even after my funds were taken. So i was ready to write it off and get my paypal back at some point in the future. No point getting too upset. So I just got over the token customer care he was offering and told him to stop fucking lying and that I had no proof and if he wanted to be believed he could stop the lies and send a tracking number as every parcel auto has it now. So then of course he cant find it, surprise surprise. So I'm at the limit of my patience. I open ebay case. Fast forward another 3 days and all of a sudden case is closed and I get a snippy message from this little cunt flap saying that I should know better than to call an honest ebayer names and blah balah blah. Basically carrying on as if the closed case is somehow proof of his sterling character. LoL. What happened was he finally was able to find a tracking number, and then we get to find out it has been frustratingly waiting at the post office for a couple of weeks, so to him this absolves all his laziness, lies about Post office being closed, and his pathetic attitude towards following through and somehow pins all sins on me. So I message back saying pull your head in you need a slap, I apologise for nothing and you deserve worse. You fucked me around for over a month, and as long as you could fuck around you did, you didn't ever send me the tracking number, and when you finally do get it to me, it proves beyond a reasonable doubt that you just wasted weeks of my time, you act as if its my fault? If I could beat him to death I would. What an asshole. Basically took the transaction hostage. Lied about numerous things to cover his lazy tracks and then when finally able to produce the tracking I'm supposed to be thankful; weeks later, having been greatly annoyed and after immediately acting on all my parts of the deal. FUCK THIS CUNT. Joerex1 must die.

A lot of Toyota motors have a series of different water housings you can fit depending on the switching requirements. I just dropped using the sa63 thermostat housing on a 4sfe for a 3sfe rav 4 one because it had the sensor location for the fan I needed as well. It was m16x1.5 thread for the sensor, most fan switches are that thread, including some Toyota ones. I think I read someone elses writeup on rollaclub years ago, maybe altezzaclubs, in a thread about doing the fan this way on a ke. Its way better than those davies craig probes that you had to jam in a hose years ago. You could even have two of them, working at different temps and have a staged fan setup, so if it gets next level hot the next fan comes on like oem stuff.

I do.

First Ive heard about echo motor fitting a k box. Thats pretty unlikely if you ask me.

Could be anything with a carb swap and a few mods to confuse the issue. If it runs good at higher revs its not a fuel blockage. That would require more fuel than idle and it does that fine so disregard that. It could be old fuel not helping the issue, did you dump the old fuel and put in fresh when you got it running after 2 years sitting? Likely you have a low idle setting. Id be looking at basics, making idle adjustments, maybe trying to jet the carb, it may be jetted all wrong for a 4k. Id be more tempted to look for a better 4k carb and work with that, at least you could rebuild it and it would probably be well matched to the motor, the 4g13 carb is unknown really, I think its a bigger motor. Do you think the car electrically cuts out when braking or does it stall because you got off the gas and it isnt getting enough fuel and air to sustain off throttle running on decel? It sounds more like its jetted wrong for idle and off throttle. You dont need a lot of fuel off throttle, as long as the thing keeps running. Any backfires? 700 is a low idle. Id be trying to open up the idle air a bit and see if its better that way.

Sorry to drag back on topic but Ive heard a wierd bubbling noise from k motor that was overfull of oil and having the crank whip the oil into foam.

Just a couple things I can add to. My understanding about the little hole in the thermostat ring (usually with the little metal tang loosely fitting in it, is to allow air to pass beyond the thermostat in the line before the thermostat opens. It speeds up bleeding, and is the reason why if you very slowly fill a cooling system without starting the car, the coolant will still ever so slowly find its way past the thermostat and bubble thought at irregular occasional intervals. Since its really there for bubbles, then it should be rotated to the top of the housing, so the bubbles that fill the upper part of the line can pass and not be trapped 100 percent until the thermostat opens. Secondly, a very experienced mechanic stressed to me once that its important not to rev a car (or drive it) without the cooling system bled fully, I think his concern was adding extra heat at specific locations around the cylinder head that can destroy the head gasket seal without even cooling in that area. So rebuilder I disagree with your premature revving of the motor to speed up the thermostat opening on the bleed, that's just impatient I think. A funnel that screws to the radiator cap and seals would be a great idea, not one thats dangling a metre above that doesn't seal on the rad inlet, that would effectively enlist gravity to push the coolant in and the air out, in fact I've seen a lot of people that use this over the years. On my engine, I prefer the thermostat to stay open once warmed up so I'm not pumping coolant in a small bypass and its not an inhibition of the motors output, so I run my fan at higher temps than some, but this was really based off of reading Toyota data for the 2azfe fan controller that said that the fan turns on at a temp above 90 degrees, so I stopped being a worry wart and made it so the fan turns on at 94 centigrade and off at 87. I never want the thermostat to close once open. Motor seems to appreciate it. This is in stark contrast to the cooling system I ran on the 20v engines with the thermostat in the wrong spot and the lack of an external by pass that meant the thrmostat opened and closed all the time and that you could see temps from 70 to 90 degrees at any given moment. It worked but its probably not ideal. Thirdly I always test a thermostat in the pot as described, but dont just see how it opens, tip small amounts of cool water in and see how it closes as well after it pops full open and this will give you a good indication and understanding of the real merit of the constantly variable thermostat system. I noticed that usually they open a degree or two above the rated temp, but they begin to close a degree or two below the rated temp, so you see it takes a second or two for the thermostat to absorb the heat of the currently available coolant and react. As such you dont really want a massively over rated radiator, that's a narrow minded fix, you really want everything working as it should be. The thermostat to not have to work all the time, the radiator to dump the right amount of heat dependent on the work its doing and for this to vary on the same plane as the extra heat made to overcome the drag of the vehicle and the ambient conditions, tempered against the extra airflow at a given speed. Think about all the work the oems do to provide the right amount of cooling for different situations, right down to the fans working independently and coming on at different temps or if more drag is applied to the motor ie when the ac and accessories come on. If they care about clutching on and off with the alternators these days to preserve economy and performance, then there must be something to it. For example you dont want your fans blasting at idle when the car is making minimal heat. They should just come on occasionally and stay off for longer intervals being temp controlled. SO with this in mind... SO that brings me to the fans, yes mechanical clutch fans and worse still ficed blade non clutch fans are awful for performance. Have a watch of the engine masters series where they test all the fans, its a real shock to be honest. Electric fans are the way to go, there is no way around it. I have sworn to bin every clutch fan my hands meet from this day forth having watched that. Banjo your data is incredible. Well done.

Starion trivia time. It was supposed to be the stallion, but the message was sadly relayed by phone and not in writing to the US marketing department that had to handle the branding of the car.

Very cool car and very interesting to us Aussies as we never got them here.

I have the following bits on order. New Aisin waterpump with rear housing. New WT sensor. New inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets. New Throttle body gasket. New rear water fitting gasket. New Bottom radiator hose. I need Teddy to help with the ignition stuff, its impossible otherwise, since it all has to come from Toyota Japan. I would love a map sensor part number 89420-20170 if anyone has one lying around. Thats from the st170 fwd corona with 4sfe that the ecu is from.

Pile of wrecker parts. Corroded nipple from rear fitting that was tie wired on. Back of the head where the outlet was. Inside the outlet passage The reworked rear of head fitting. Thew thermostat cover including the fan switch sensor. The car in nice evening light. The new top hose that doesnt go up higher than the motor or radiator top tank. Also includes a bleed point.

Gates does generic z formed hose that you can usually bend or cut and rotate and join into most any shape. Its always on the shelf at sca. Unless its a gentle bend, you can just use the straight hose, it has a natural arc to it.

Spent 12 bucks at the wreckers today and got a newer tps, a new looking water temp sender and a new temp gauge sender. Also got a handful of air temp sensors to plug in and see how they go. Stopped at a different repco and got a pair of hoses to chop up for the top and rear rad hoses. Was an interesting 5efe import Tercel. Couple of Taragos with F diffs installed, one F282 and one F292. One rwd Toyota car only, the king of econoboxes, the st141. Couldnt find a throttle cable for the thing either.

Ordered a 5 dollar water temp sender from amazon to test out. Seems you can buy genuine for 55 or china for 5. On this car 5 is the number. Ordered new lower rad hose from Amazon as well. Bit bullet and got a new aisin water pump assembly for under 100 delivered again from AMAZON. Off to wreckers today to try and find some other bits from an st170 or 190 4s corona. I think ABC has one at Oxley. Also want to change Throttle body gasket so need to find one of those. Would love a radiator too but dont want to pay for one. So far the car owes me not a lot. I think I'm about $1550 into the whole project.

Removed rear water fitting and found a second barb that was corroded away underneath that someone had tie wired on to make it stay put. Its now been replaced with a nipple. All the rubber hose is getting swapped out as is the thermostat and cover. Would love a new radiator but will see how it goes making this thing run as sweet as possible first. The new thermostat tested well. Have received fan switch/sensor so will try and get it back together tomorrow. I think my blue rtv is off and it wont set properly. Have to check tomorrow. Flushed a bunch more corrosion out of the remaining fittings and pipes, seems pretty clean inside the motor from what I can tell.

Following on from the earlier post. The sx80 coil is the same in the st170. So is the fuel injector and the throttle body gasket, which is common to all xSFE engines. Put IAT sensor from the sprinter in, didn't change much, maybe even ran better with out it. Might need time to learn. Or it might be slightly different. Pressure washed the back seat, boot, and underneath it, plus the engine bay. Will fit intake, throttle body and exhaust manifold gaskets soon and see how that improves things. I suspect a faint vac leak. After de-greasing I've run it for a fair while and it doesn't seem to be leaking oil in any area. Found ae92 sx spoiler at a house Im renovating that had to be cleaned out. Baby keeps growing.

Interesting playing with this today. Its ecu is from an st170 corona front wheel drive 4sfe car. According to EPC it should have a different Map sensor. Since it runs with this map sensor plugged in from the 4sfe sx80 I'm not too concerned at this point to change that until the ignition is fresh It has the correct TPS, and water temp sender for this ecu. It should, however have an IAT sensor connected and there is the plug there but no sensor, that likely settles what that mystery 2 wire plug dangling from the loom is by the tps and idle controller at least, and provides another avenue for improved running. Its the generic black plastic one IAT, I will throw one in and hopefully the thing runs even better. Stripped the sagged roof lining, the remaining old wiring from gauges and anything else that was broken or in the way of fixing the bits I want to fix. Garbage pile is growing. Vacuumed out the thing. I swear its been underwater by the sediment in it. Might pressure wash later today.

I like how you pounced on the 911 when he got into a moment of bother. Very nice aggressive driving.

I think it was jealous because I bought another celica.

Dunno exactly what helped but the car started with a full battery, showed no charge light and showed about 13.5 volts as you would expect. Dunno what was the exact cause, possibly that 33 year old fuse that I changed was causing it to brown out. I really dont know. See how it goes but for now it seems fine.