LittleRedSpirit

Cam timing

Today I removed the hatch and refitted it more accurately as its shrunk a bit. I got a much better fit, I'm happy with how it sits I just need to scribe it to have even margins. Might not need the pins now its fitting better but I guess we will see when I get onto some bumpy roads. I also fitted a much better condition headlight and when I removed the old one I realised the reflector was brown with rust so no surprise how dim the headlights were. Cheers Tristan for the light.

Yes I agree. I was a bit off put by not having any info about oil pressure available so I made my own oil warning light. I installed the light between the ac vent and the wiper controls on the dash bezel so its right out there where you can never miss it. I realised after a while that the ae86 dash has a gauge and not a light but I had the switch that runs the light not the pressure sensor that would make the gauge work, so I just found a 12v ignition feed from an unused bit of wiring in the dash and wired in the pressure switch which simply pulls to ground when not under pressure. It works perfectly I'm very stoked and it only took 10 minutes. Need a shift light too, but I can make the ecu do that.

Best mph was 92.26 I think. I used to get 88 or 89 with the 20v so I'm keen to see how much better I can get this. Back tyres are roached too, they are the same ones I was racing on 5 years ago with the 20v car. :oops:

Not a bad idea however I wan to pull less rpm at 100 and save fuel too. I'm looking into 3.7s or 3.53 final drive. I did the math on it just then and it seems ideal.

I dunno where youre getting your information but a 4 runner diff is much wider than ke70 diff. You need an ae86 rear end for one that is the right width, but then it would need to modified for the leaf system. After all that it wont handle sr20 torque. Usually you just pick a diff with good quality parts that is readily available and then adapt it in. Popular ones I know of ar MX13 (similar width only 6mm wider overall.) YR22 tarago F series, all of which can use an lsd from an rs200 altezza, ma61 etc.

Best of the night was 15.135 with a 2.249 60 foot time. Have to baby it off the line it spins hard if you don't. I'm going to need grippier tyres to better the time I think as it just cannot use all the torque. Also i think if I went to 3.7 rear end it would accellerate as fast but need one less gear change, its geared way short. It leaps up out of corners but sells itself short on the quarter mile.

Anyone keen for todays event? I'm pretty keen to go now I have a working tacho.

BTW BCF is much cheaper than sca or repco for the Narva range. Between 30 and 75 % cheaper on all items.

Bought some led bulbs for the dash lights that weren't yet swapped over or working. I think Medicine man put some in my other cluster too and I forgot to swap em over. I have now cut out a vent hole in the cap as 55 degree inlets arent ideal. I have had a louvred piece made to match and that's screwed over the opening. Whos coming to test and tune tonight?

I think I will make the headlights work better too, I guess a relay is the way to go but is it more elegant to replace the crispy old cables and terminals in the factory loom? I'm even considering driving lights for the full rally experience. Been playing with the tune and I have the idle much sweeter and some better calibrations. Found the middle areas of the map were way rich and did some blanket style corrections and its much closer to the mark and sounds like its running cleaner. Fuel gauge is working immaculate and even giving a low fuel warning light when appropriate. I've not previously had a corolla that had one that worked. I'm trying to work out how to make the idle controller kick up a bit when the fan comes on. I've done it with a fairly dumb system by making idle increase a couple of steps one degree before the fan comes on but its not perfect, ideally Id use a logic only output to tell a logic only digital input to up the idle in the idle control settings, which Ive tried but I cannot quite get my head around how exactly to relate aux in and outputs.

No I havent. Will do

Put in a new fuel sender and it seems to work fine now. Fuel gauge used to give a very poor account of what was in the tank, if at all. It was more of a yes or no thing. :yes: Almost got all the gauges working now but the darn oil pressure light. I have an ae86 oil pressure light switch plugged in to the dash but I can't ever see it light up, even when about to or cranking.

Jewellery shops use them, as do many companies that need to clean fine detailed items. Bit wasted on car parts though.

More tuning refinements. Today I got the tacho working pretty good. I ended up using a pullup coil to make it run right and I installed a variable resistor in the dash board in place of r1. I was able to adjust it nicely with the dash screen off. Yay! Works like factory. I've also noticed I failed to secure the power feed to the fan under the gaurd and it was rubbing on the tyre. That has been fixed and secured. Next thing will be to adjust and fit the hatch better and install its pins to stop it rattling around. Installed the centre console. Also met a nice dude who sold me a roof liner and some other bits and pieces like the boot area carpet and some random trim and vents. I'm going to saw the roof liner right in half and clean and paint it grey. Then I can probably fit in around the main hoop.

So now I have finally fixed the belt squeak from the multiirib belt. Turns out the scion tc pulleys have a different offset and sit further forwards so once I removed the pulley off the alternator I was able to work it out perfectly. Gotta give credit to my old man who looked at it and picked it up.

The radiator now features a second thermo fan. Temps could creep to 92 degrees in stop start traffic so I've covered the entire core with fans now. Wish there was room for a shroud but the two fans will be fine. 30 dollar Ebay fans shit all over 100 dollar repco fans. I just added a wire from the second relay output pin. As a test I deleted the oil pressure gauge sender and the remote mount and just put the ae86 type oil pressure light switch back into the block and connected that. Bloody gauge doesn't work for me. I'm not a fan of oil coolers but I might have to fit one that will give me another location to add the sender natively. I would prefer the factory cooler warmer but I can kill 2 birds with one stone with an oil cooler. Next item is to make the tacho work though. I see my tacho wire is missing from the engine harness that comes forwards with the starter, reverse lights and senders etc. Ill have to find it wherever it is and make sure I can get it hooked up to the ecu. I've done the electronic mod inside the tacho itself so this should be the last thing.

Forgive my ignorance but don't turbo cars go better with less piping volume and therefore would the 60mm core not be superior in its effect?

Have now fitted flush key locking bonnet Pins to the front end. Ill fit some to the hatch too soon. I would love some softer rear springs.

I think we know where it went

Looks great. In the Australian Market we have found that sv21 or sv10 camry handbrake centre cables are a bit longer as are jdm ae86.

Treated her to some fresh hpr 5 and a filter. Might look at refitting the cooler warmer to the oil system just because I want this oil to stay in better condition. I can make it fit if I use a z386 filter instead of the z432. I used some tonneau cover loops to secure the battery box lid properly. Might go down to the sheet metal guy and see if he can put some louvred punches through the bonnet. Have also popped open the bleeder on the rear of the head to make sure there were no bubbles trapped, all good, only coolant seemed to dribble out. Really want to get the oil pressure gauge working, I don't know whats up with that.

Dare I bring up the bearings again, or are the internet engineers still googling for answers?

don't put a mini spool in a street car. Yes its fun but if you have an accident with it they will crucify you. Just fit an lsd to your diff. its not hard and not that expensive. Sounds like wild plan best of luck mate.

Or the temp gauge sender is all scaled up and not contacting the water right. You can wire brush it clean and reinstall.