LittleRedSpirit

Ran power feeds for my wideband and my data logger now. Really need either rear flares or some 15x8 plus 20 or 15 x 7 plus 5 wheels to fit to the rear so I can drive it. Booked in for dyno tuning on the first of september.

The brakes have had a final bleed, and the clutch topped up. I've plugged in the wideband, and the datalogger, I just need to make a power feed for both. Undecided about going from the battery or from the front end where Justin did. What you reckon Justin? Need to screw in the sun visors and attach the mud flaps too. Just minor sundries. Later this week Ill have it towed to the exhaust shop and then to the dyno tuner.

Not ra40

Ive had two different setups now. Firstly you will find a lot of shock options when it comes to short stroke are 51mm so abandon any idea you have of retaining ke70 struts. The bearings are tiny anyhow. As are AE86 bearings. Changing up to xt130 gear simultaneously lets you have a brake upgrade, a bearing upgrade and a strut upgrade that opens up the choice of 51mm struts. RA 40 struts will work too being very similar to xt130, but they have a bolt on caliper bracket, not a cast steel machined stub for the brakes. This is the key difference as they are a bit easier to make high spec brake upgrades for. The upgrades people mention for xt130 use a massive and reasonably heavy Hilux multi pot calipers. The best bang for buck upgrade for the the xt130 is using an rt132 caliper (or xt130 wagon) which is an alternate factory twin piston. That being said its old, will need service and isn't a great design. I've chosen ra40 struts for my ae86 as I plan to fit modern multi piston calipers from Wilwood or someone like that at some point. I have a free choice about bracket design and could use a dozen different Toyota hubs to switch around and make a sub 280mm vented rotor work with correct offset. Now on to length. You're going to be largely dictated by the ride height you want to run. Shortest acceptable for ok performance would be the AE92 / TRD short Stroke AE86 / ST185-205 length shock body which are all as near as makes no difference in length and stroke. Out of these you'd be best with ae86 short stroke ones for ke70 as the valving will work best, however I was happy with my st185 koni yellow that I used, despite no compression adjustment. As an example this car is set to the maximum height you could possibly run with that setup: I found it sucked on the street a bit, just because on ramped up bumps you could top it out, but it didnt handle well any lower than this, you'd have to significantly rework the rear end to make it all sweet again. You wouldn't believe how many ʞ©$ɟ tards will tell you low and stiff is good but they have no idea. People like this: Disregard their information as its unsafe. Going low will make your car illegal irrespective of any other mod so you may as well just butcher the thing and torch it if you want to street it on the rails. If you were to run it low you'd be soon sick of it and you'd be keen to develop something with Droop, and captive springs, and a sense of plushness that makes you want to push the car harder. So that brings me to the next length option. The SW20 length option. I've gone this route now and have found its made a much more perfected set up with a better range of adjustment through height at least. I'm yet to drive on it. I just shortened the RA struts enough to fit the bodies of the sw20 shocks, and then had a guy weld on a HSD coil over kit with 5kg springs from memory. I like softer suspension. Compared to most doriftos anyhow. I like to stay in control and build something that works on Australian roads that can be driven on with the confidence that you wont be defected. Most of the very short options above are designed for golf green smooth Japanese driving conditions on their tracks, so they seem great cool and nostalgic but you'd have to have the dirt rally shocks to perform on our streets. I rate the old oil Greens but anything non adjustable is going to be too hard and expensive to set up. Tokico HTS 102 are the top option amongst the jap ones but they are unsuited to our conditions in my opinion. KYB AGX are only 4 way adjustable so Id steer clear. Especially for the price, plus I've heard nothing but unhappy reports about their performance, the main knock being that they are simply not adequate at any setting. To conclude, I bet you thoght this was easy. It isnt. It costs serious money to do it safely and legally. KE70s are cheap to buy (or should be) because compared to a 3000 dollar Silvia you have to do a lot to get them performing. Most people get to the stage you're at, realise what they are in for when someone who knows actually lays out what's really involved then they sell the car and buy a Silvia. If you have a genuine enough love for the ke70 to spend the money it will reward you, but nobody except another ke70 owner will really get it. Girls certainly don't. So your next question will be motor then diff upgrades. A t series rear end which will widely seem to take 200hp 200NM max. is about $1500 give or take and will need service when you get it. You'll also have to pay through the nose for a flogged tail shaft from some middleman. You can bolt in a 16v 4age, or GZE, or a 20v 4age but only if you have an after market ecu to control it, and Microtecs don't seem to work right for most on map vs tps. Your stock swaybars are fine, try changing the bushings to nolathane first on the car, then see what actually needs changing. Don't change 5 things at once cause if something becomes undesirable its impossible to identify why. Good luck.

Fitted the bushes. Now I need someone to come help me bleed the brakes. Wifey!

Not driveable or dynoable yet. It needs these adapters fitted which I've just collected from the machinist.They adapt and locate the control arm bushes to suit the larger mx diff brackets. Been a bit of a thorn in my side, in truth Ive had em made twice but the fabricator lost em once after I gave them to him. If you want it done right... So once they go in it, I've got a final brake bleed to do. Then I've got to put power to the wideband and calibrate. Then prime the fuel system and surge tank. Then load up the map with the laptop and make any changes to get the idle control, purge solenoid, tacho and whatever else we messed with to function. Once that's done I can try to start it and get it drive able. Once driving its going to become pretty annoying pretty fast that my rear wheels are poking out of my arches. I need probably to borrow some 15x7 between Zero to plus 10 offset so I can actually drive it without a flare kit. Once it runs Ill send it for dyno tuning, but on the way it will need to be dropped at the exhaust shop to fit the pipes as they need a tiny adjustment to bolt on now after working on the headers.

Somebody come and buy this off me.

Wheels are the single most expensive thing I bought. Ecu. Diff Building and components. That was lots of small things that adds up or maybe the car as a whole to begin with was the biggest thing. Fabrication didn't cost much because of knowing great people and having great friends, the Manifold added up to over $650 in expenses, that was the single most expensive fabrication endeavour. Oh the headers and exhaust were all custom as well. They were up there in price but not a lot for what they are.

So I got impatient and registered it.

Yes I read the NCOP about 7 years ago before it was implemented and banked on it coming through at some point during the build, and it did, thank ʞ©$ɟ! For those playing at home I've spend about 26,597.50 according to my spreadsheet with another grand or so to go on rego, diff adapters and dyno tuning.

Mod plates and safety certificates are all done. Rego in two weeks.

Hi Members, Any Brisbane members want to bring their ke30-55 series rolla by my place (mitchelton) so I can see if the Subaru 1000 lips I have will fit them. If so Ill do a lip for $100 to whoever brings the car by, saving them $50, plus you'd be the first with that combination if it works. PM if your interested.

I fitted the catch can system today and I filled it with oil again. I may cry if it leaks. I'm pretty stoked with the catch can. Its stainless. Drain: <a href="http://s206.photobucket.com/user/mjbogan/media/20150711_145130_zps7uauvzdz.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb235/mjbogan/20150711_145130_zps7uauvzdz.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20150711_145130_zps7uauvzdz.jpg"/></a>

225s never really fit under stock guards on any corolla. Most people are such idiots they think tens will make the sub 1000kg car handle, but what will really make the car handle best is the narrowest lightest rim that will weigh the least and allow a tyre like a 205 to do its best work without a bunch of stretch. You need to decide if you want grip and performance or to impress people while stationary. For the most part tens will interfere with the body, create a huge scrub radius that means the guards will need a lot of trimming and flares and even maybe firewall smashing to make them fit. Just put wheels and tyres on that suit the car, you can increase your grip by running the lightest grippiest wheel and tyre package. Id be more inclined to go no wider than an 8 and fit the highest quality of tyre as opposed to getting some tens and stretching some cheesy tyres over them to be cool like the rest of the :kiwi:

Dropped the spare diff off for the spacers to be made today. Will have em sometime next week. Charging my laptop today and will install the Adaptronic USB Driver, and maybe even upgrade the OS as well then Ill install Wari 14 to talk to the ecu, then I can look at loading up the map and confirming all the outputs and settings. I'm tempted to crawl under there and connect the reverse lights so I can get the rwc all completed on Tuesday. Should be the only thing stopping it from passing so I better get it done. Not a big job but I have to fit some new shockys to my work ute today as well. I hope the rain ʞ©$ɟs off. Just cheesy Monroe GTs but should be fine for the stock truck. Darn thing also needs a timing belt and tyres all at the same time. That's going to be another 1300 for both.

You bet! I purchased some clear hose and some fittings today to hook up my catch can. Its going in sideways on the passenger side. Once I get an air box it can be deleted as it will just plumb into that, but for now I need something to connect the top cover to. I'm going to have a drain tap in the car so no need to unbolt it to clean it out if it gets any oil inside. I prefer clear hoses so you can see what's being expelled and get an idea what's happening without opening up the can to see.

Tell me about it. I was able ti fix it today. It was all possible as I had expected on the car. There was one bolt that I couldn't get a socket on so I just drilled a hole through he cross member sheet metal to access it and when I put it back together I used an Allen head fastener instead so its able to be done up through the hole I made. Maybe one hour to disassemble all up, half an hour of clean up and then 40 minutes to re assemble. Not too bad at all. Took a cool photo that shows the dipstick position in reference with the pick up. Basically if its off the dipstick all together its out of oil completely. I also bolted the cables back onto the starer that bring power to the front of the car. I noticed one front wheel had a tiny bit of play in the bearing so I tightened it up slightly. I'm going to go find someone to make my diff bush adapters next. Might just take the diff and a pair of lcas to a metal fab shop and see if they can turn up a couple of stepped washers to adapt it. I was thinking about having a different end welded onto the lower 4 link to adapt it but thats a flawed plan as the ends on the stock mx13 rear 4 links are these massive pressed metal jobbies that seem to not be too suited to chopping up and welding, plus I don't have any. :down: So tomorrow oil goes back in and then hopefully ʞ©$ɟing stays in and I can turn it over again and put some more fresh oil through the motor to lube it up before Justin and I run it. :rocknroll: I have charged the car battery, now I just need to revive my laptop and install WARI 14 and the USB driver for the ecu. Oh and I guess now is the time to install the wideband sensor and its wiring also.

Two steps forwards one step back at the moment. The sealant I used for the sump must have been old as it didn't quite cure so I've had some drips of oil coming out from the seal in one or two spots. Its on car accessible to remove it so its just a slightly fiddly messy job for now, Ill pick up some better sealant today. I've dropped the new oil back out and re bottled it for later. Found a guy selling a better front bar with lip in the next suburb so I'm buying that. The list for completion is as follows: Exhaust fitted. Connect oil senders, water senders, and bolt the cables back on the starter. Plug in ecu and check settings. Tune. RWC n REGO

Some clutch lsds need more modifier than what comes mixed in. The diff shop reccomended I just pump the whole bottle of lsd additive into my torsen lsd as well. More the merrier with them.

LSD oil is a special thing as the clutches require limited slip you need oil with lsd additive in it, penrite limslip is the go. They get bloody hot so i go for the thicker stuff. don't use normal gear oil.

Timbo dropped by for a peek today. We fitted the trumpets and filters and added the oil to the motor. The dipstick will need remarking I think judging by the new full line.

This bonnet is a bit of a factory seconds mess so it should look in tune with some cracks. I've sanded it right back so the sika just fills under and flush with the metal on the bulge. Its designed to withstand vibration and be painted and sanded so hopefully its ok. Theres only one way to find out. Medicine man made contact, he is busy for a few weeks but he will pop over and connect a few things soon and we will work through the map and make sure all the systems should work so we can turn the key.

Yes strip and refurbish it all the way back to being a bare car. Check the brake and fuel lines, even flush them while its all apart as they may need changing and they are impossible to get out in a built car.

Crucial Typo