LittleRedSpirit

I cleaned up and examined the top cover. It is different to the camry one, but only because it doesnt have the wiring channel from the coils to the injectors. Otherwise its almost identical. I think Ill stick with my original one as its wired to suit it, but I will polish the shit out of the long elbowed thermostat housing and use that for sure. Looks way better than a grey plastic one.

Made a trip to the wrecker today. Turns out Wacol is not doing self serve parts anymore. I did score a van 2az cover and thermostat housing that should be more rwd friendly. Dicks didn't man the counter so i just threw 20 bucks through the window and walked out. I also noticed the air box and panel filter design is decent and I may look at finding a complete one for the car. I did a clearance test on the sump pickup with some play dough. I have used it to tap it out to about 5mm from the bottom at the closest point. I made an anvil and used my slide hammer to shape the sump pan. Very happy with that now. Wrecker bts from a 2000 previa. Seems the vans had them 2 years before the sedans. Clearance after tapping out the sump. Intial test to check thickness of the playdough under the pickup and it shows the exact pickup location.

Yes. Its so different to my build. Its pure race and uses a nascar transmisson. Plus I don't like boosted cars. Id love a hasselgren na engine though.

Got some paint to match original the other day. 2 litres. Should be enough to paint hatch bay and bonnet.

The first one has no reverse light included, so that to me says its from a utility or a wagon model as Toyota often had remote reverse lights that weren't part of the main light cluster on these models where the whole rear folds open.

Part number is nt on toyodiy so its probably pre 75

I reckon the ecu is on the way out. There have been a few in recent years where people cannot chase a fault and it is the ecu.

When you say you say a large spark on the main lead, do you mean terminal to temrinal or its escaping the insulation? Crank it at night and see if you see any sparks jumping

You need an ae71 shaft

Got my headers back from Rick today and they look awesome. They did warp towards the block a bit but nothing I couldn't sort with a hacksaw and a quick heat and bend away routine. There was this one off chink of aluminium from the motor that stuck out for no reason at all, so its been removed. They are a little too close to the bit that sticks out near the tunnel that has alternate gearbox mounts on it, so I'm simply going to trim off the spare mounts and captive nuts there to save weight and add clearance. Just another small job for when the motor pops out the final time. I'm half considering having the pistons fitted to the motor and just starting out with the 11:1 static compression from day one.

Hey thanks mate. I sometimes wonder who reads this. I wondered where all the views come from. I was motivated to post so much exhaustive detail by the fact that I'm constantly looking for information and I can never usually find anything on the topic, so whatever topic I cross I blog my work in detail. I'm glad you get something out of it, and I'm stoked you're inspired too. Stay tuned, I'm going to have it driving this year for sure. I cannot wait. Today I did a bit more. In honour of our ANZAC veterans and all those since I included an army surplus heavy duty webbing belt as a battery hold. I lined the bottom and sides of the box so it fits snug and then added some neoprene cushioning to it. Once I put a harness bar in where the back seat used to be it will also pick up and bolt to the edge of the box and add strength and safety to it. Once I finalise things at my shed for the year I will be ripping out the motor and doing the last few mods. Then once its got the motor back in I can fit the full exhaust (which I pick up the headers for tomorrow), and put oil in it. Then the only thing I need to do is have it mod plated, the bonnet cap done, and the ecu.

Score

Stupid thing is, whoever buys it will pay too much and still need to replace or at lest remove and clean the carpet, fit new tail lights and shampoo it all over. All things that should be done by the seller to achieve the best version of said over the top value. Its just not cricket. Plus its not an ae71 with a manual tranny either so its just valuable as a collector piece, or as a tidy shell really.

Ummm theres no cage in that cressida. Psychos.

Darn lazy nuts. Stand up straight, tuck your shirt in.

Had another look at the red one, its a shit heap compared to this one above. Immaculate cars generally don't have oil stains in the carpet, grubby seats and broken or missing bits. Why wouldnt he give it a proper detail, a dealer would and they still wouldn't ask that kind of money.

Well the best one Ive ever seen, an olympic gold 4k slushbox auto with 33000ks went for 3850. That was three or four years ago. See pics below. This current ke being higher mileage and judging by the photos not immaculate as stated, and the least desirable engine and box, Id say in todays money he would struggle to break three grand. That said there are some idiots in the car scene. However the drift boys would choose an s13 over a ke70 all day dollar for dollar cause at least the s13 will slide. So perhaps this appreciation may see those who preserve them get them instead.

Someone just listed a 66000klm ke70 on this site for $6250. Who wants to have a sweep on how much it sells for?

Te 27s start around 30k and up I believe. Id probably rather own one of those or something rarer and more original to Toyota like the sports 800 or the 2000GT. Even a Mark 2 Corona Coupe, if you could find a good one.

You think all these finer points matter to the people who buy them because they look like Mustangs?

The mustangs are selling... I think in general the classic muscle cars are more correctly maintained and have fewer imperfections. The people selling the toyotas need to step up their game on quality to achieve the kind of prices they ask, or close to.

Hello. While prowling around car sites and ebay etc Ive noticed some sharp upwards trends amongst Jpanese car owners. What really strikes me is that a few key models either have appreciated sharply in the last 3 years or the people that own them are well and truly dreaming. Here are my examples and rationale for my line of thought... We all know the Ra28 is a classic Toyota Celica with a broader appeal than just to specific Toyota tragics. Obviously since its styling is copied curve for curve from the mustang fastback that came out 10 years earlier its going to catch a broader market than most. However, if being like a Mustang is a great value adder, can the prices ever eclipse those of the very Mustangs they are copied after. If its a poor mans' Mustang, how come I'm starting to see people selling them for just about as much as a Mustang in immaculate condition can go for? Examples: RA28 for sale @ 30K AU Mustang for Sale @ 38.5K AU Another cheap Stang So if the mustang is one of the more common shapes thats not really expensive, then why do people go nuts for the Toyota rip off version? Why doesnt the trend extend to the mark two corona that looks like the other style of Mustang? Mustang Sportroof for sale Mark two corona for sale (not a coupe but none around atm, still the most expensive one Ive seen for sale) Its a bit odd don't you think, or are the owners of RA28s a particular breed of wierdo? The guy trying to sell his ra25 for 30k lists a spare part as one litre of paint and says it needs a few rare parts sourced to be complete, yet he is still after 30 k!

Made an interior light for the car since the cage was in the way of the stock location. Its a piece of 10x 20 x 1.6 clear anodized aluminium angle with a piece of 10mm polycarbonate as a bezel. I machined the polycarbonate back and made it fit over the led strip lights which are in a bright daylight colour. Wired to the original light, it works great and is pretty darn good as far as the amount and spread of light it puts out.

I think the squealing is clutch related, either the pilot or throw out bearing is on the way out. Sometimes you get a bad one, or they get damaged during installation. A mates Hilux was doing the same thing as it had a new clutch under statutory warranty and they just chucked a clutch kit in and didn't replace the bearings.

I don't really understand from what you've said, but after any mc swap you need to bleed the mc as well as the brakes at all 4 corners. You just crack a flare nut on each line, and use it like a bleeder nipple, just let the air out with pedal pressure and close the nut. I like to give it a few pumps along the way once you get a pedal just to build some pressure and force any remaining bubbles to the extremes, then bleed again. Put a rag around the mc to absorb any fluid and wash the area after or your paint will go away with the air bubbles.