LittleRedSpirit

Justin you'll be pleased to know I have finally got a reverse switch. I tested it with a test light and its correct and working great. Its a 2 wires type so we can put whatever plug on it we want. I also found some mud flaps finally. Took a long time. Hopefully get it painted up tonight. Next week I can bung the motor in it for the last time.

Have a look through the rides and projects or the Engine conversions areas to see what others have done. There's a lot of good info there, mostly its up to you to find it.

Looks great mate

I'm trying brother. Primer laid down, 3 coats. Mucho buildo. If I can rub it back without seeing any metal come through Ill just go straight to the top coat. Got a painter mate who can lay down the metallic nicely for me. A well spent 6 hours. Doesn't take too long when you have a good orbital sander, flap disc, stripper wheel paint thinners and prepsol all ready to go. Noticed the rails have had some rust repairs done both sides right at the front. Nothing much really. I'm in doubts about painting the whole car. Ill keep it tidy-ish, but might just paint bonnet and hatch and then if it looks ok Ill leave it. I don't want it looking too much more attention getting than the average adm. But when you pop the bonnet you will pop your clogs. Polished the rad top piece too. Needs a cream polish to come up mirrored. Top coat probably Tuesday. Wanna give it a day or two to harden up fully then a light rub down.

When people like Jay Leno look for them, they are. As I understand it, the only real collectors item corollas would be sport 800, 2000gt, RA28, TE27, Model A B C etc. Beyond that, there are a lot of cool old cars but not to everyone's taste and not produced in high enough volumes to have mass appeal to general car collectors. Time tends to give a lustre to some old cars that was never present originally. For example 60s shovel nose coronas were panned as gutless and unreliable and not highway capable when they came out, especially in america where almost everything was high performance at the time, but these days they have quite a cult following. It really took the world oil crisis for Toyota to develop the appeal to sell volumes, as the conservative nature of the Japanese cars was blended with the classic lines of American Muscle. So basically all the modern era Toyotas we all desire to restore are just cheap rip offs of American Cultural icons. Thats why I like the KE70, and AE86. They really are there own animals. And Jolly good ones at that.

A lot iof people get excited if its better than average and start throwing around claims of immaculate or overrated and just generally fail. Just cause its better than most doesn't mean its museum quality, plus I see dents in the body. A white car in full sun will mask thousands of paint problems.

scrubbed

Bonnet cap and remade aluminium Radiator plate are finished. I must say, I'm stoked with both of them. The cap looks amazing with the rounded fold and welded corners. QUALITY :clover: The radiator top plate was 2.345kgs in steel, its 708 grams in aluminium plate 2mm thick. Just a lazy 1.6 kgs shaved from in front of the front axles. Steel in front, alloy behind. Best part is, if anyone wants something similar made it wasnt even very expensive. $180 all up. Bargain. PRP sheet metal on Pickering Street, Ennoggera. Paul McCormack is the guy you need to see. They just go above and beyond with their skills.

Yes Ill invest in ceramic, but not on an untested system that may require future mods to be perfect. Cheers for the heads up and the interest in the thread. :clover: ;)

Did yet more today. I ordered the correct reverse switch from ebay, $30 all sorted. I cleaned and prepared the water pipe and loctited in the sensors and heater barb. I sprayed it over in flameproof silver exhaust paint. I rubbed back the headers too and finished them the same way. I also executed the sump mod finally by breaking off the original sump, cleaning the surface and bolting up the new bits. Its been sealed with the typical blue sealant. Should confuse a few mechanics with 2 drain plugs. I ripped apart and tapped a couple of spare holes in the idle manifold for things I may add later. I then removed all the taper seal nipples in the system including the manifold and and loctited those too. My painter made a visit and gave me some ideas for preparing the engine area and the fibreglass bits. Next step is to remove the remaining things in the bay, clean it out and prep it up for undercoat. Might go two coats then rub it back hard, then one more coat and wet sand it before topping it off with the matching silver lacquer as per original. I'm undecided about clearing it over or not. Then the motor goes in for the last time and it can be taken home, where I can fit an ecu and get it running finally. The only nagging thing is the diff lower brackets that need adapting. I'm beginning to think Ill just use some steel plate, weld it in the right thickness either side and drill my own 12mm hole. Sounds simpler than stepped washers and turning something up.

Done some more. Collected the pipe from Zenith. Also bought some primer and painting stuff.

2az is lighter than a 4age...

The man wants a stang. I say buy a 2015 stang and put a rolls royce merlin in it. Thats a real stang.

Mustangs are some seriously low tech modern cars, your money could be spent elsewhere. Best of both worlds, ra28, its like the car was made for you.

Did whole lot more organising and running around today for this after work was canned due to rain. I took the headers to the shop and had a small bend made underneath them to put the lower flange back in the right spot. I also had them fit the wideband bung to the bit after the lower collector. I purchased the gaskets from them too so I'm all ready to go. I had quite a warp in the flange, and after chatting to the shop I decided to go back to the shed, unbolt the 2az spare head from the dummy engine and then went back to Macs mufflers with it. We bolted the flange down hard then heated it to buggery with the oxy torch, which actually pulled the flange much straighter. Then after discovering that Patterson performance across the street was too much of a pussy to linish them on his big machine, I went back to the shed and did it myself with a belt sander. Got it within half a mm of perfect so balls to you Patterson. Anything is possible if you give it a go, but doing work can cut into big-noting time I guess for some. I took the cooling pipe to zenith engineering and they are adding the threaded bosses I need to attach the heater, and the three senders I want to fit. I took the templates to the sheety for the bonnet cap, and that is being made from 1.6 wall aluminium sheet. The same bloke is remaking my steel cooling panel in aluminium with 2mm sheet. That should save at least 2.5kgs. I went chasing the reverse switch but found only genuine Toyota parts are available for these. Any of my readers work in Toyota parts department? Wanna hook a nigga up? I want the type with the 2 pin plug that wont fall off every few months like a t50 style one.

Tonight I ripped the motor out, and it was a bit easier than expected. Now its apart I will paint the bay, fit the modified sump system, tidy up the fuel lines in the tunnel, modify the headers and the cooling pipe and then put it all back together. My radiator cooling plate is steel and its too heavy so Ill be having it remade in aluminium as well to save a couple of kgs. I chopped the top radiator support out, its a lot better to get the motor out now. Ill paint a few things while its apart and when it all goes back together Ill loctite a bunch of things too.

He did pretty well I think, a bit of paint goes a long way.

Make sure you try another ecu first. The reason being, the car sat for a while then played up, compression loss is usually just from the internals wearing out, not something that just happens one day. Sometimes if you leave it sit, hoses perish, bugs move into anything that's not closed off, you can have some real odd issues.

In my opinion to road tune a car nicely you need a very accurate speed sensor, and a very accurate wideband, and in reality, you may still find the dyno gives better results for the full throttle map. Once you have a w.o.t tune and some sort of response from zero throttle you can scale it and fill in the blanks, drive and log it and see how it goes. Work your rev limit up 500 revs at a time and plot a course if you want to be careful. Just go to a dyno first for an hour and get some basic set up, then its really easy to road tune. With your intention to run boost I say that adds a layer of complexity but its really just a matter of having an amply safe margin of error on the retard vs boost maps. With slightly higher end ecus you can control boost. I don't know what megasquirt offers with boost control. You might want to consider a knock sensor too.

ʞ©$ɟ spacers, don't spoil the fact that the aw11 seems to have the balljoint in a more central location that gives more precise steering. I like your flare idea man, but I'm with Dave on the lip. Its a bit rounded off, its gotta be pointy like a little great white. Might have some kamei love for it if you bring it over we can test a couple of those on it.

7k isnt going to take the finest electronics to run. It really depends how far your ambitions for the build reach. A good investment is an e420d adaptronic as its one of the most easily transferred ecus. That said, if you just need something capable of running boost you don't have to spend a grand usually you cna find something that will work for less used.

Not a lot of difference with boosted tuning except more fuel goes in and there needs to be a boost referenced timing retard table in the stock tuning or the ecu will have no way to retard the timing. Basically, its going to be a lot easier to get fairly dumb standalone to make it work, you can design the perfect timing curve and apply the boost based retard with most basic computers like microtec or whatever crap standalone is lying around.

Today I did a bunch more stuff in preparation for the motor coming out. I prepped and painted the sump and oil pipe with high temp black paint. I removed and polished the tensioner. I removed the old thermostat housing and polished and fitted the new one and chopped down a hose for the radiator to suit. I cleaned up the spare tarago top cover and I tested it to see if degreaser will eat into the magnesium alloy, and it wont. I removed its breather hose and measured the hole and found a banjo bolt to suit it. I'm going to tap it and fit a banjo so that the breater hose doesnt have a sharp curl towards the firewall. Not using the heater connection from the back of the head, Ill be applying an m16 threaded boss to the copper pipe that returns to the radiator, that will let me connect my speed flow fitting for the heater, or maybe Ill just have it hard braised on and bracketed in 16mm pipe. Ill also add the threads for the 2x water temp senders I'm using. The headers need a small bend in the lower single pipe, and a wideband bung fitted. Plus I need to face the flange as its a bit warped. I also need the gaskets to suit. Just in the process of getting my welder working so I can do the fabrication when its apart. Will modify the rad support to bolt in across the radiator opening. Will paint the bay while its all out. Ill also loctite all the vac nipples in the idle control system, and i have to add one more for the pcv too. Basically just final preparations before the thing gets finished off once and for all. Tensioner: Oil pipe: Sump Thermostat housing: