LittleRedSpirit

Yes getting fired up to finish it off now. Today I had some time so I went to the shed and installed the glass in the hatch. It really wasn't easy at first glance so I decided to install a rope in the rubber channel where the hatch fitted and used it to pop the rubber to the inside of the hatch as I worked it around. It worked perfectly. It took longer to clean the glass to get the old tint glue off it. I then adjusted the hatch and clip so it locked in. I still might install some pins to hold the corners down as I feel the gas struts lift em a bit or maybe the glass hatch doesn't weigh the seal down as much. I cleaned and refitted the bonnet and made the cap for it out of corflute so I could finalise my airbox design and check all the clearances. I decided to just simply redo the airbox mock up as I wanted to reangle some things and it was just easier. I got it fitting where I wanted it to. I need to shave a little fibreglass off the inside linign to make it perfect but not much. I used KD bond to stick the top layer to the inner layer at the rear of the cutout in the bonnet. The bottom layer was sagging a bit. Once that dries I can shave the bit that touches the airbox away. I also had to file a bit where the bonnet passed by and lightly touched a wiper arm. All fixed now. I badly need some parts for inside the doors and then I can put the trims on. Once Justin returns to do the last wiring jobs I can fit the seats, console and any extra trim. Then its a brief engine removal and a few odd jobs before that goes back in and the whole car goes to get the tail shaft done and then back to Ricks for the headers to be swapped around and the diff bushes to be sorted. Then its time to buy an ecu and tune her up for rego. Might even try to rego it before its tuned if I can swing it. Make it easier to get around place to place for dyno and road tuning.

Still driving this beautiful vehicle. I'm tossing up 2 long term ideas. Obviously all my spirited driving needs are going to be sorted by the 2az ae86 when its on the road in the not too distant future, so the question becomes, do I sell the Celica and move on or do I keep it, get a few miles out of the 22re engine and then switch it to something else. I could picture this car with a Beams or a 4 litre hilux v6 some day, but with the car in such good order its hard to really do much to it. Ideas? Suggestions? I don't want to give it away if I sell it, and most people try to convince me its worth under 2 grand, which I don't believe. Its tempting to keep it, put in a lexus lsd, some konis, a manual box and just drive it forever. I just don't know how many cars I can drive or will bother to register at once. From experience a third car rarely gets used between the work ute and the preferred daily. The only question is whether the 2az car will end up track only in the future and the celica might become the daily again.

Today I ripped off the gaurds, fitted the radio antenna, hung both doors, tested the stereo, put the battery back on charge, fitted a few bungs in the firewall and mounted the oil pressure senders. I noticed that not only are the door locks missing, the rods that actuate them are too. Anyone have these or some loose doors I can raid the bits out of?

http://www.kosmodrom.com.ua/pdf/1GT101DC.pdf

Firstly I want the stock speedo to be spinning. Secondly, I've done that before and the sensors that screw in the box are too electrically messy in their signal and inaccurate. They serve as a good measure of whether the car is moving or not, that's about it.

I have heard that but I don't know anything about the quality of the sensor that's inbuilt, I don't expect it to give too accurate a read judging by previous Toyota speed sensors I had, so I've decided to do it this way because I have the sensor already and its known to give a clean read to the adaptronic. I need to know when I'm accelerating to help with tuning.

I screwed in the left side speaker box. I also soldered the left door switch plug in to connect it up. I grabbed a spare ra40 strut I had lying around and I test mounted the gt101dc sensor that I will use for a speed sensor to log in the ecu. I'm happy with where it is. Its designed to pass within 2mm of any ferrous metal object to trigger it being a hall effect sensor, so I've ground out some clearance at the rear of the hub and I'm using the 4 bolts that attach the rotor as the teeth to trigger it. I'm quite happy with where it mounts. I don't think that drilling or die grinding out the material I have will weaken the caliper boss or the brake bracket by an unacceptable margin. Its tucked away behind the hub and strut out of the way, and the tip of the sensor is about .5mm from the bolt heads. What you reckon Justin, should work? I powered the sensor up and spun the hub and could see it jump a few milliamps as it passed the bolts.

Brian at Rocklea mechanical mate.

That's cool mate. When I was in high school my mate bought an XB 4 door, lime green, white vinyl interior and roof, and 93000 miles. Unfortunately it went the way of most first cars. That is; into the shape of a taco and off to the wreckers. Its always good to see a survivor. :clover:

Good one buddy. Being young and at uni/on P plates, you'd be best to just enjoy the simplicity and ease of maintenance until you get onto your opens and have some more money coming in, its a joy to drive a rolla even stock. You've got plenty of time to save and repair/modify or style the car to your hearts content. Welcome to rollaclub. Feel free to be individual with it, no need to be one of the JDM sheep and follow whatever shit trends that other people do. Make it an expression of yourself, not an expression of conformity. :kiwi: :clover:

Did a bunch more tidying up and finishing off. I have installed the numberplate lights. I just ended up using ke70 ones and changing the plug. I will need to file the plastic around the hole that the wiring passes through in the bumper for the plug to go through but otherwise its a perfect fit. I fitted the front park/indicator light wiring, and its perfect and correct. Cheers Mirko. Just need some led bulbs as I have no bulbs. I felt the stereo was jammed in a little tight against the top edge of its opening so I lowered it 1mm. Fussy boy I can be. Fitted the floor wire, cheers Brett. Ill need Justins' help as the st141 sourced switch is 2 wire on the handbrake and the floor wire to it has a single wire only. I guess the other just goes to ground but I'm sure Justin will know. Also fitted the sender relocation line for the oil pressure sensing gear. Its going to mount off to the left strut tower as I think the space behind the left strut tower is a bit full up with wiring and crud already after moving the heater tap there. I changed out the heater control cable for a mower throttle cable so its more robust and it works a bit more freely. Took a few tie wires to hold it in place in the switch block but it works fine, albeit a bit stiffer than standard but that's to be expected after increasing its length and number of bends threefold. I zip tied up some wires and generally organised a few things. Next thing is to screw in the 6x9 boxes which will be rigidly mounted to the side panels I made. Ill just pack them up a quarter inch off the floor as I will jam some carpet under them some day and maybe some sound deadening too since mine was clearly stolen :bash: . Once the side panels come out to screw in the speaker boxes I can connect the speaker wiring and I will switch over to the better condition seatbelts I bought the other day, which despite my specific requests did not come with the bolts and buckles I was missing. If one more person rips me off and wastes my time I'm buying a plane ticket and paying them a personal visit. I've had a gut full of people either not disclosing useful info, condition, or problems with items and insisting that they have what you need only to find out once it arrives that I was conned. A lie by omission is still a lie, especially if I ask a specific question about the particular thing. I feel its happened at least six times in the last year to me, the next person who does it learns the hardest way possible. Ill have to call Medicine man and get him back once I charge the battery and I can hopefully get him to show me the most elegant way to wire the gauges and senders, and we can test the added electrical pieces. I desperately need an ae86 radio aerial but I just cannot face trying to find one. I might just fit an after market one and see if I can shave the stock antenna hole. I gave my auto falcon aerial to my dad as his broke in his fairlane. I still might use some kind of auto type antenna but it would have to fit where the stock one does no issues. Id also prefer it on a switch so I can have it down if I'm using the ipod or cd player in the car and not the radio. The auto antenna on my ra65 comes up regardless of the source and it annoys me a lot.. I still need to snake and fit the interior light wiring and find a suitable led light I can mount on the cage. I might just use a foot of self adhesive led strip lighting I have in the cupboard. As long as I still can pad the bars somehow that will work. Might just stick it to the roof. Once the speakers and trim are all in I can fit the seats and look at removing gaurds and fitting doors. Then door trims, and I can pull the motor out and do the last couple of mods I need to finish, like fitting a reverse switch, spot welding in a mounting lug for the fuel lines, and tapping a few bits to aide tunnel clearance. I can also fit the modified sump and the modified oil pick-up. Then its motor back in, and off for the tail shaft fabrication and the headers to be corrected, and then Ill buy the ʞ©$ɟing computer and try to run it. :eatlead:

Holy ʞ©$ɟ 11.2 kgs is so stupid heavy for a rolla wheel. My 14x8 custom ssrs are only 6.5kgs. Unsprung weight is the enemy of performance, no matter mow many ponies you have.

Is it screwed into the gearbox? You need to install the senders from the original car usually to make the gauges work like the temp gauge and such. Tacho needs to be connected up to your tacho output. From memory a black wire that used to be on the coil and originates in the left kick. Speedo is a worm driven cable. It either is connected or it isnt. The oil pressure warning light (engine light) need to be connected to the oil pressure switch from the original car too. Blinkers and all other native functions should be fine, as will your charge light if your alternator is wired correctly. Its really worth putting a few hours inot making it all work and seem factory, plus it a rwc fail to have dead instruments.

Ill get the ae86 on the road this year. Then Ill be out and about again. A well timed project is a nice way to let your drivers licence recover...

Stopped by MACs Mufflers on Pickering street and they spot welded the nut into my sump for me. Sump mod completed.

Also, from a moderators point of view, you will only piss us off if you make multiple threads in multiple places for the same discussion, not to mention it will be counter-productive to the people who try to help you. So please learn some patience and stop making extra threads for the same question. Its the middle of a work day, most people have jobs, so you will have to wait till people have the time to help you.

The dash isn't working is a vague explanation. Do better if you expect help. Itemise the issues as they will most likely need attention one thing at a time. What is and isnt working.

Thats awesome dude, well done.

Id like to help but not technically able. Irokin can most likely help you if you pm him. More info would be good, like what happens when you try and post the links. Why can't you post pictures? Are you trying to link to a bucket or are you trying to upload?

Great project

Neither does keeping the parts people are trying to buy. Meh, Ill get by fine without them.

No way to cool the charge, and turbos get pretty hot. Maybe not the best right underneath the carby for packaging and safety reasons. Cool idea though. May as well build it and see.

Lights ordered for $23 shipped. Eat a dick Kellys. :clover:

Talk about dicks. I walked the yard for an hour in the middle of the day, pulled my own parts, lugged my own tools. spent 30 minutes getting there and when I arrive at the counter with 2 near shagged 35 year old number plate lights they want $33, and go on to try to convince me they are a rare and sought after part, despite not even knowing which car they came from. I offered $10 as a starting point, they repeated, $33, this time a little rudely. I just dropped the shit and said, "We arent going to be doing any business" and left. What a bunch of dicks. I can buy the lights cheaper on ebay new aftermarket.

Anyone around Brisbane North want to weld my sump bung for me?