LittleRedSpirit

Exactly. Go see RIck Sendall and have something like these made for half the price of toda R. Make sure you tell him to connect 1-4 and 2-3 in the first phase. Darn v8 guys don't know Toyota firing order as I discovered /\/\ As far as pipe sizes, with primaries I think one size bigger than your exhaust port is always good as it creates a reversion ledge and helps stop pressure waves going back from that point and hurting your flow. The scondaries are a point of debate, and quite honestly, if anybody posts here and tells you this stuff, they probably don't know shit, they are basically giving away trade secrets they don't know. I trusted Ricks choice on size, and I think he has done a good job. He asked me what CR, where the peak power was made, and engine volume and then did his planning from that. There is a relationship between the aperture in the last collectpr and the pipe size, get it wrong and you lose much power.

Possibly the best first car ever created. Cheap and mechanically simple to maintain. Easy to work on. Plenty of em around, just don't find a minter for your first one.

Looks like some big buckets. What are they out of?

Hey thanks Matt id love to take you up on that sometime. I really just want to be able to fabricate brackets, repair my car body and maybe learn to weld exhaust pipe properly, then Ill move up to more exotic materials. I think my main motivation is to not be delayed all the time by fabricators and to learn more skills, so anything I can pick up from more experienced welders is a great thing.

Supagas called and they are a bit more expensive to deal with than the stargas mob. The bottles are: E $16.5/mth G $18.15/mth AS5: 66.48/fill E 99.82/fill G Argon pure: 99.88/fill E 160.55/fill G\ all prices including gst and delivery I spoke to the rep about the price differences, he may call back with a match of prices or he may not.

I just spoke to Stargas. Far and away cheaper than other companies for the gas and rental. They kind of encourage you to go nuts and use a lot of product I think. The E cylinder with just over 4 cubes of gas is 13.75 per month bottle rental and Argoshiled 5 will cost $49.50 inc gst to have filled and incluses delivery! The argon is 62.70 per fill delivered. The G cylinder with over 10 cubes of gas is 15.13 per month bottle rental plus 62.70 delivered argoshiled 5 per fill or 92.40 delivered per fill of argon. Far and away cheaper than any of the others. These prices were given by a sales rep as I have a manufacturing business anyhow so they seem to offer decent rates on things when I talk to them. Still waiting to hear from the other rep from Supagas, but Stargas seems to be the best so far. They do a 12 month contract. WHich is good because it can offer some stability in pricing usually.

Just rang around and found a company called CB Jensen and Co that delivers D or E sized cylinders full on a swap and go delivery program. The D holds 1700L of argon or argoshield. It costs $365 to get the first bottle and it costs 124 thereafter. The E holds 4000L of gas. It costs $485 to get the first bottle, then it costs $173 thereafter. The intital startup is expensive but the ongoing is as low cost as it can be being that you only pay for the gas you are using. These prices are delivered too. all inc gst. Weighing that against BOC service which means you have to collect it and it costs: D: $140.76 per fill plus an extra 15.74 per month for the bottle. You can rent the bottle by the year and save a poultry $10.69. lol E: $155.71 per fill plus an extra 18.23 per month bottle rental. You can rent the bottle by the year and save a poultry $11.95. again lol. all inc gst Agas is a company thats run closely with Air Liquide, which is a super expensive medical gas company: E cylinder only or larger: $220.94 including gst to rent the bottle for a year. plus $103.68 inc gst for each fill. Its a delivery service, so you pay air liquide to rent the cylinder but you pay Agas for the gas delivery.

Hey thanks guys. i intend to do all kinds of welding eventually. Id like to be able to make exhausts and headers, weld panel steel, fabricate averagesteel stuff like frames and benches for work, and to also learn how to weld aluminium eventually. It would be awesome to not have to rent a bottle but I'm fairly sure they changed the law in qld about it and now they cannot fill bottles they don't own or some other such business lobbied bs that forces up the cost of everything. I thought it would come with the reg but it didnt. It did come with a couple of bags of tips. I need to buy a few things. Regulator and gas. Earth clamp, as the welder has a bar bolted to the earth lead as old mate just used it to build a trailer and had his earth bar welded in. A rusty car to practice on. Welding helmet I'm not totally new to this but Ive done more stick than mig welding. Ive also got to find some air hoses and lines to run as Ive just had a compressor installed too.

Hey matt do you know what the deal is with the disposable bottles of argon and argoshield? I assume you need a fitting to attach them, do you know who sells them, and if its worth using them?

Today i didnt do much, but I did remove and paint the exhaust and die grind any burrs away from the unions. I love how Rick made it in two sections, its super easy to remove even with the diff in the car. I also collected a welder. I bought a cigweld 350EC Transmig. It does stick, mig and tig. Can weld stainless, steel and aluminium if need be, its just a matter of the right wire, wheels in the feeder and the right gas and voltage. I need to buy a mask, and some argon and argoshield. I need to fit a 3 phase plug and test it out. I might even buy a rusty ke70 to practice doing rust repairs on. Then move on to the ae86 afterwards. I also had my bigger compressor wired up. Its a sweet unit. Its good day for machinery. :clover: I still want a hoist. Then I think Ill be right for a while. I'm definitely in the market for a 2 poster to install at my shed. I have ample power, may as well.

OK, I was looking around for which welder to buy. I have purchased a cigweld transmig 350ec. It comes with remote control and wire feeder, torches and reg for $500. Being a small to medium 3 phase welder it wasnt as desireable as a 200 ish amp single phase as backyarders with no 3 phase power arent keen to buy it. Hence the sweet deal. Its about a 3 grand welder I think, but it was listed and relisted and came down to a very affordable price. I hope it doenst need much in the way of maintenance. Now I can get on with all the small things I need to do like welding up some cracks in the body, repairing damaged threads, finishing off the diff mount bushes, rust repairs, you name it. Its on.

Super impressive Matt. How did you learn to weld? I assume you use exclusively tig?

I suspect you have an issue resulting in a constantly on ignition. The car should not heat up a coil while turned off, unless the ignition is on. Checkj the switch contacts and see if the ignition switch is functioning, it might be a short, or there might be ashort in the circuit that connects the wires from either side of the switch somehow. Inslect for damage, and test the switch and report back. Its wierd if it starts on the key, that terminal in the switch must be fine, but maybe the circuit you create at the ignition on position before you get to start position is shorted and never turns off. You never know with old cars. Id be looking to see if someone has fitted an immobiliser incorrectly or an alarm, or butchered something for an easy power feed to a radio or something and created other problems along the way. Youve got to physically inspect and pay great attention to anything that doesnt look 100% factory.

They can look it up at repco, its easy.

Ive developed a ke70 tacho mod if you read the technical articles section of ae86 dc. Its just a matter of removing the board and adding different resistors and capacitors, and you can even adjust it with a variable resistor. Speedo is a matter of the right cables and gears to drive it. Fuel gauges are often poor in the older toyotas. Either get used to it, carry a couple of emergency litres or buy a new sender, and check all the wiring. You should also try and install the gauge temp sender in the cooling system someplace as it is nice to not have dead gauges and all you have to di is install it and use the wire that will be present on the engine harness anyhow.

And I managed to buy a bunch more of the bits I need through careful scouring. Ive ordered almost all the trim I'm missing. Ive also got a lot of the smaller nitty gritty bits like pedal pads, grommets, clips and I even ordered a new shifter hole piece as I want to remove mine and move it forward by about 12mm to adapt the w57.

Just found an american website that lets you buy ae86 trim brand new. I spent $630. Need so much shit. toyotapartsoverstock.com

Cool, Thats what I was planning, my mechanic reccommends them too. I will also be looking at the sheetmetal parts soon, like the radiator fan shroud and the bonnet cap. Dave and I need to finalise our planning for the airbox when he returns from the desert. I'm pretty keen to buy a welder. Something thats capable of panel steel welding to a certain extent, but that can also get a good 7-8mm penetration if need be. I'm not into cheap chinese shit tools, so I'm thinking some kind of CIGWELD Gas mig, but I really don't know. Any of my readers have a reccomendation about what would be a good welder for my needs. I have a lot of small metal fab jobs on this car I would love to do myself. Got my ball studs in the mail, so now I can remove my high tech 'hatch stick' and get on with more important things. Was looking around the ae86 interior. I'm thinking about not running any trims aside from A pillar trims around the top of the car. So no C trim, No b trim, No door top trim, no roof lining. I would really like the trims for the boot area and side areas, just so nothing in the car can move around and damage the body shell. I will run all the dash vents so the heater is effective, its controls and its surround, plus the console where a stereo would mount. I'm going to have twin 4 inch spoeakers in the dash pods, and probably go to twin 6x9s in the rear of the body somewhere. No amp, just a deck and 4. All my interior will be painted black, so it matches more than anything, and I will have grey highlights like my door cards do. I'm considering getting my recaros trimmed to suit also in black vinyl or leather, however the current black fabric will match pretty good. I might swap the drivers for the passenger side so I don't have a ripped bolster to sit on while driving. I will be running carpet. I will have to buy that as well. I gues knox is the go for that. I might go for dark grey over black for this. The cage and all interior will be painted the body colour, which will be BMW silver. I guess I will also have to find some roll cage padding aswell.

I need about 30 parts to put it all together. A bunch of trim that isnt super important to find. I guess now I need Medicine man to pop by again and have a look at wiring the motor up. Then back to Ricks and get the headers fixed up. I need some handbrake cables. Tailshaft. I might even get it running without the tailshaft to test. See how it goes. I need to buy the ecu I guess now.

I wish it said lol fug

Today I fitted so may things back into the shell. Heater box. Blower motor. Demister vents. Pedals. Steering column. Dash brackets. Door switches and their boots. Seat belts clutch master. Brake booster and master. Front Goodridge braided brake lines. Washer bottle. Heater hoses and tap Vents in pillars. I started going through the trim I have and sorting colours and looking at whats damaged. I need quite a few pieces I think. I need to organise some handbrake cables for the diff, and rebuild the rear brakes and I can bleed the brakes. I have bled the clutch, gives me plenty of throw. Works great. Ill know more when its running about the finer points of disengagement. Had to make a stylish little bit of bundy tube to connect the JDM style MC, which has the front circuit pointing upwards instead of forwards. Easy done.

Booster pained. All trim washed. I have blue, tan brown and red black. Its going all black and grey. I also installed the heater box and made sure all the connections were going to be possible, which I think they are. I had to rotate my heater out pipe but thats it really. I also went to the wreckers and got the door switches, the rubber boots for them, the handbrake boot and tray, and a few smalls. I installed the handbrake tray and lever with a splitter cable I found. I also installed the wiper motor and assembly in the bulkhead, and found a spanner I lost ages ago inside there. When I return to the shed I have to organise the trim and see what I ned to source and replace. I noticed I have no console, no rear hatch trim panel or taillight trim panel for inside the lights. I have almost all other things though.

Oh and also had my booster tested. Its fine. 100% working. I just need to clean it up.

It doesnt stick through much at all now