LittleRedSpirit

Thats my hero car. Well done.

Insane. Its amazing they have so much inventory, even at 5 grand a unit sold they could recoup some serious money, but they would rather go broke. The government should seize all those GMs in the US since they bailed em out anyhow. Save the economy a lot of money on Government vehicles.

Its not the steering rack thats the crucial point, its where the front wheels are centred. Anyhow, looks good, youre making good progress towards your goal.

Just a note to inform that for SE QLD members, the Lockyer Valley swap meet is this weekend, the 18th of May.

Most anything that is fairly compact and rwd with a manual gearbox in north-south configuration from the factory. Pay attention to theback of the motor. Some people have been keen to fit lexus GR v6 engines into the corolla chassis with direct injection, but they cannot manage it due to clearance issues with the di at the firewall. Better off with the Hilux 4gr if you want to go that way. That said, there are many good v6 engines out there now. Plenty of which can be easier to tune than a dual vvti gr v6. It depends if you want to keep it all toyota or make a bastard out of it.

Gee thats a stretch. There is no rwd tranny available. Its gutless. Why bother? Anyhow, anything is possible, but you would find a 4age goes better and has a bunch of parts available to do it easily. Id suggest starting there. A 1NZ would need a custom bellhousing, clutch and flywheel, mounts, sump possily and not be able to retain the stock ecu without a shit tonne of wiring.

People only put 1jz in things to go straight line. KE70 suits a 4 cylinder or v6 better if you want to turn corners still.

Check out BRD RACING for some good t motor gear.

pics?

Hi Irokin, Any idea what might cause this? Matt

Sounds normal.

I had a shround made that adapted a stock sv10 camry fan to the ae71 radiator. You realy should try and get every fin of the thing ducted through the radiator fan with no air leaks. Air will take the easiest path, so you need to duct it properly or it will flow around the core.

File under vague and pointeless to try and answer.

Hello, Interesting project! I wonder if that for a time attack car you need the pinnacle of balance and you might not achieve that with the M straight six series of engines. Id be looking to almost anything else that wasnt six in a line. You have to be very conscious of making a car that handles, as 400kw and 2.5 cylinders in front of the axles wont help you get around any corners, and in time attack corners are very important. It would not be ideal if you built the whole thing to a high spec and found that a 4age car with cams would be faster around a track, and be easier to drive. Have you considered a Beams engine, or a 2zzge, or if you want a lot of capacity consider a 3rz or an alloy v6 like an 3MZ or 1GR engine? Id love to see a great result for you! One of the best things about a ke70 is its balance front to rear, and the lightweight nature that means without a lot of power you can go quite fast. I worry that 400kw is way too much for the chassis, especially driving for grip. The polar effect would be insane! You would have to bring it right the way through the firewall. Just my 2cents, which you have to round down now anyhow...

If parts have a car chassis name written on them in white paint pen it always means they have come from a wrecker.

Yes just bolt it in and then you can bolt the bar to the car, swing it up and weld where it contacts the housing with the mounts.

hes an artist

Well talk about a waste of pixels. What are you trying to say, is there a question here I'm missing, or are you just sharing pictures of rusty incompatible car parts. Why are you trying to fit the crossmember into the TE? Are you after rack and pinion, and M series conversion or some other non explained idea? Whay am I asking? I don't know?

Been wondering what other little things are worth doing while the car is apart. I will probably have my starter overhauled if it needs it. I see from my photos that I have some rust around the clutch master cylinder. Makes me wonder if its not worth just reinforcing that area. I would like to get the cleanest most precise feeling clutch I can and I feel it could help since its a pretty floppy bit of rusty sheet metal. Its going to need touching up anyhow. Now that makes me think about reinforcing the area around the brake master cylinder bolts also, as that seems more curcial and more likely to flex. I'm not into those master cylinder stoppers as they appear to use the m/c as a stress member, and I feel it shouldnt be. Its far too important for that. I was thinking about having the engine crossmember stitched up as well, as Ive heard they flex. Is it worth doing more bracing for the steering rack mounts? Or any other areas in particular. I don't want to go too crazy seam welding and ruin the original of the look of the chassis. Any ideas? I'm especially interested in the opinions of people who have rallied or driven the ke/ae series really hard for a long time and made a chassis last.

I prefer one thats easy to remove over one thats easy to hide. I'm using a mazda style one that just pulls out like most toyota washer bottles. Its circular, much smaller and lighter than stock, and the compact steel bracket stays bolted in when you pull it out. Same one also comes on kia, daewoos n all those rubbish K cars. The way I had it set up in my last car, one handed tug and it pulls out with the hoses n all. Its really better to have one there, as its a nice thing to consider what happens when you flip the car upside down, or have some silly issue with pressurising the tank and forcing your fuel out. Why have any adr issues at all? Not worth it in these days of impoundings and crushings. Id be concerned if I had an impact that made me lose volume from the tank, that the fuel wouldnt have an inert medium to be discharged to, instead being sprayed onto hot and or mangled items in the car. Consider the worst case scenario. Plus you will be sometimes able to smell fuel around the car needlessly, why breathe toluene if you don't need to?

Get a smaller one. Put it somewhere else. Its just connected by a rubber hose to the tank and also the manifold, so as long as you can route the rubber hose, there is no reason it coulnt be mounted out of sight.

Nice work, however deleting that light has violated an adr and you may well be told to reinstall it at the point of rego, if you try to street it. Gret work though. :kewlpics:

Neither will fit properly

Better off with te70 rear end, then you can upgrade to ae86 stuff, and have a diff thats appropriate width for the car.

So you fitted another ecu? edit. just read. my bad