LittleRedSpirit

I found some thick n heavy steel washers that rode nicely on the t3 top hat needle bearing and placed the load nicely on the nut under the cusco camber top bearing. Worked great for me.

If I get over it I know who will buy it...

I was seriously thinking different engine for this car, but I was thinking 2vz or 3vz maybe. But its such low mileage and runs fine. I'm just going to fix it, maybe delete the smog pump and some of the other junk and fit headers. Then get the AC working again. A water pump is $60.

SO now its lost a half of a litre of water again. I top it up, start it, and see its now trickling out of the waterpump. Methinks its time to fix the front main seal and the waterpump.

Took this while camping over the long weekend. Secret spot with beautiful platypus infested creeks and mountain waterfalls and rock pools.

Just organised to send this to the fabricators for the headers and exhaust system next week. At the same time Ill have a couple of rusty bits fixed up in the floor and the crinkled spare wheel well straightened out. There's a bunch of small welding and metal fab related jobs that need doing. I either need to buy a welder and spend forever ʞ©$ɟing around under the car with it, or get it somewhere with a hoist and welder, get it done, and do it soon. I figured the latter is better since it has to go to the fabricators for the exhaust anyhow. Gives me a week to work out the remote clutch reservoir and the other details it needs.

Chopped the middle out of the D Max bonnet today. I'm simply going to make an arched piece of metal or plastic that picks up the angled edges and is highest through the middle to cover it, then smooth it in with some fibreglass. Its actually not quite as bad as I suspected it might be. I undid all the studs for the plastic cover in the top magnesium alloy engine cover, and refitted the pcv valve to it to see the height of it. The PCV valve is the highest part of the whole engine assembly. I had already folded down the throttle linkage and cable mount slightly to aide clearance. I have installed the new slave cylinder from a 4wd Y series Hilux. It strikes the fork best of all the slaves I have lying around the shed, being for a Y series bell housing anyhow, but it has a different orientation for the bleed and line connections. I ended up cutting down a bleed nipple below the nut and drilling a 2.5mm hole through it so you can tighten or loosen it. It works great. Misses the steering by enough and it sits behind the steering shaft so it wont rock into it. The steering/slave clearance: The Fuel reg under the throttles: The poke factor:

Most Cats are shit. Its that simple. Even a nice one will rattle after a few thousand klms. Just don't use any ethanol fuels, and don't run it lean.

KE30 and xt130 lcas are the same length. Always have been. They are both 10mm longer than ke70. Same as RA40 and rt132, and maybe even ra65.

I bent a spanner but the best way is to remove engine and box together. Feel better. :oops:

Put up a pic, and are you sure its not just the backing plate rubbing the end of the lca, I was able to pry it back away with ra40 gear and I realised I only had an issue at all because the tin rotor covers were bent a bit.

I can wrecker hunt till the ends of the earth and nothing is going to have anything that suits. Its definitely a custom job, or pay big money for something that satisfies about half the design points I desire.

Been also thinking about the airbox I need to make. I wont get by rego and mod plating these days without one. Wondering if I can carve the shape I need from something rigid, like foam or wood, cover it in mould release, and then just wrap it with fibreglass in 2 separate pieces. I figure you need a baseplate and a top chamber so you can fit it up with whatever trumpets. Id like it to have a pair of smaller inlet hoses spaced out to have balanced airflow into it, rather than having it get all its air from one end or the other. Id also like to make it a significant enough volume. Then I can plumb ram air ducts into it and have a minimal natural boost effect. Id like the opposite face to the throttle butterflies to be flat and reflective of pulses back down the inlet. Id also like it to not cost the $700 I would need to spend to buy something adequate from jenvey UK.

No but if you use an st141 engine just get the shitty gearbox with it.

Made a new hard clutch line, and planned out all the coolant hoses. Went and bought a couple of hoses from Repco that should suit. I also removed the clutch reservoir and looked at what i need to fit it. Need to find a few banjo bolts so I can do the remote clutch reservoir, the heater connections, and the remote coolant filler reservoir. Waiting on a new clutch slave to come in the mail, then I can connect up the clutch line. I need a 90 degree fitting to connect the rubber line, or I will make myself a small bend from the hard line and install that to turn it around. It points right at the steering. Might be better with the new slave, Ill have to wait and see. Pipe cutter completely shit itself today, so i need a new one. I also designed the aw11 radiator lower bracket that I need to make, and the top brackets to bolt it in with. They will be similar top brackets to ae86 but not inline with the ae86 threads in the radiator support. Will do an L shaped top bracket. I might just spot weld a couple of bolts under the cross brace to hold the ae86 brackets so its neat. Also need to work out some sort of thermo fan system. Might have to be completely custom. I only have about 95mm of clearance. I found a sneaky spot for the adjustable fuel regulator under the third and fourth throttles. Mad a neat little steel bracket for it. I also fitted the aem fuel rail and am waiting on the banjo bolt fitting for the reg end to come in the mail. Its cool, it actually lets you retain the pressure dampener for the fuel rail. One thing I'm a little stuck on is the vacuum sharing idle control manifold. There are a lot around for sale but I don't know how equally they share air. I might end up making a small chamber and fitting 4 barbs in one end and the idle control connection in the other to make them all equal distance from the air inlet. Found some black Goodridge braided lines for the front brakes in the cupboard, brand new left over from the old car. Will have to flush all the brake lines out and clean the ends and connect it all up and get it bled. Not sure if the m.c. is any good, but there's only one way to find out. I have got some ae86 wheel cylinders new to fit in the mx13 rear end. They should bolt right in and convert the hydraulics to work with the ae86 mc. Put the alternator on it and tensioned the belt. Works a treat. Also gives a more complete picture of the space available for the exhaust. So I need to finish connecting fuel, coolant, clutch, and brakes at the front end, then put the fuel tank in, fix the rear brakes up, fit the fuel system, then the body wiring, and I can think about wiring the engine and getting it running. On the ugly side of things I found a decent rust hole under the drivers feet. AE86 has a double skin there where ke70 has a single skin. The lower sheet metal under the drivers foot well is rotted out. All the structure around it seems healthy enough, but the sheet metal will have to be changed. Could be a job for when its having the boot floor fixed before paint. There's also a couple of snapped bolts broken off in the lower sills.

Noticed I was losing a small amount of coolant. Looked around and found water marks indicating a leak from one of the throttle body coolant hoses. I swapped it over, so I hope that fixes it. I also noticed the front main seal is leaking, so I will have to get it changed over soon also. Old cars, gotta love em.

Its still a wee bit long, but you just stack a few washers on it.

Theres a very good condition one in the western suburbs of Brisbane also. Welcome sir, you might be the first French member of Rollaclub.

I'm so sorry to hear the bad news. Very glad you guys are safe and hopefully not too sore. All the best from Rollaclub.

This isnt a wreckers spotted thread. If you want to know about the cars PM the person who posted it. Please stick to posting on topic. Someone pulled this Skyline out of the weeds near Brisbane and brought it by the shed to show me yesterday. Its an L24 powered car with a manual transmission, and the most rust Ive seen in forever. Dude is parting it.

Yeah and the left slant takes 8 degrees of bend out of the exhaust.

Perfect dude, I feel so disconnected from some of this corolla scene.

Thanks!