LittleRedSpirit

Another mad as ʞ©$ɟ day of progress. Motor dropped in. Fits like a glove, and I do mean a glove. My tunnel mods are awesome! Right first time. Have all the right clearances around the steering. The slave and the starter are perfect where they are. I looked into a different slave cylinder but no need, same with the starter. Had to make a slight adjustment to the gearbox cross member with the die grinder to make one of the holes work, but that allowed me to move the gearbox tail to the left about 4 mm which enhanced steering clearance. Even with the motor in motion it should be sweet. Bolted on the trumpets and the throttles to see how it all looks. I think My Dmax bonnet wont cut it. I'm going to have to find a steel one and modify it as I need some serious bulging done. Its going to be a bit wild. One close clearance is the 4th trumpet is right next to but not touching the lid of the clutch master, however I can fit a remote reservoir against the bulkhead to make it tidier anyhow. I also made a little plate to close off the bulk of where the starter is cut into the block,its pretty neat actually. It really pays to have a 10 inch disc sander to round things off. I need to turn my attention to the fuel and cooling systems, then make an idle control system with a small air manifold to share it around. Also collected my diff bushing adapters so I can bolt the F series in tight!

OK, cool. I'm still deciding whether to mod the diff housing and set the whole thing up or to just shelve it for a rainy day.

Just went and bought a mk 2 rona for a spare diff. Nice to have the right spares when you have a rare rear end.

Just buying one today...

So I split the Bigport n t50 apart to investigate whether things were rebuilt like the seller claimed or not. Once you look past the ten years worth of dust from sitting, the thing is actually rebuilt. I could see a new head gasket, clean oil (as in never driven on), new oil pump gasket, freshly sealed sump, new welsh plugs, I removed the top cover and saw that the shims and buckets were immaculately clean and the cam lobes have assembly grease on them. Its definitely rebuilt! The one shit thing is that they installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge and when they screwed the brass sender in they over tightened it and cracked the raised mounting bit where it threads in. However when It was removed the broken bits fell out and revealed plenty of thread to screw it into anyhow, so I don't think it will affect anything at all. On top of all this, the clutch was some heavy duty repco unit with a yellow pressure plate, and its also brand new and never driven on. Thank ʞ©$ɟ I had a look before starting it, as there was a huge ball of grease sitting on the input shaft as if they over greased it to shit! If it had ever spun it would have flung out onto the friction surface and ruined it most likely, so a good catch there. All in all, between the suspension and the engine package, this car is ʞ©$ɟing great! I'm going to keep the motor and put it in a car some day, since I probably never will bother to rebuild a 16v unless its to learn about them, so it will be nice just to hold on to. Plus I drove Rians rebuilt one the other day and I was quite impressed by its manners and performance.

I think for it to work you need to drill the lca mount hole out larger, but thank ʞ©$ɟ they guy didnt know that. www.whiteline.com.au/instruction/Z201_KCA4(size).pdf Judging by this he used the wrong sized ones as the bolt was the same thickness as std. Therefore no adjustment, but they would work on it if you drilled the hole out. I don't like the idea of using them on an lca junction.

Cam centric bolts through your lca that you spin to adjust camber.

Got the front suspension and the quaife rack installed now, very happy with it. I can turn full lock and nothing collides, its actually got a lot of clearance. Popped on the gaurds, and even with the xt130 lcas it doesnt poke, however the rears need about an inch of cover added. One really interesting thing I noticed when removing the original front suspension from the shell, its got adm ae86 struts with slotted rotors and lucas pads installed. The shocks that were installed were trd green 48511-ta001 tarmac non adjustable 1600/980 damping rate. Very nice! Also, the springs installed were trd blue and uncut. I also removed a pair of camber bolts and the cusco tops. I used the cusco camber tops together with the ra40 strut coilovers made from the 6kg hsd kit, ae86 standard steering arms and xt130 lcas. Bolted together with TTT 35mm RCAs, ra40 tie rod ends and tubes, nolathane control arms bushes and the quaife steering rack. I'm pretty happy with it as its sitting now. Most likely Ill keep a stock front swaybar as I prefer that. Had to slip a washer into the setup to space the needle bearing top hats away from the camber plate and to activate the needle bearing in the tops with the load from the top nut. Works great. I also removed the old steering wheel and boss kit. The original wheel from the car is tiny, seems like a joke, its about 220mm diameter! I have now fitted my prefered autotechnica 300mm wheel with my own boss kit. I also centred it all. Next up is to drop in the engine and box and see how the suspension sinks, then try to estimate how much to raise it to get it where I want it. I'm planning to use more travel and droop than previously. A more all round capable style suspension system. Looks like this rack that I pulled from the ae86 has been reconditioned at some point. I'm not surprised someone has done something to it, its 3.33 turns lock to lock which is unlike any other ae86 rack I've ever heard of. I believe standard are about 2.95 turns lock to lock. It did achieve a lot of lock. Will have to call them and investigate on Monday and see what's up, it has a serial number so I might be able to find out explicit info. This image shows the tein ae86 added caster tops next to the cusco standard caster type. If you use the caster added ones in a ke70 then its actually correct caster for a ke70.

I found on my ra40 based coilovers the control arm only interfered with the backing plate with xt130 lcas, I was able to pry a couple of mm clearance easily. I had NCRCAs there just in case but they weren't needed with the ra stuff. I was able to use ae86 steering arms and normal 35mm rcas. You shouldnt remove metal from or modify your control arms, at least on the street.

Yeah I just want to learn how it works in there, and my friend has a wealth of knowledge. That old motor, I barely even remember owning it, haha. I suspect most things that arent shiny silver will be grey or hammer-tone grey. I like it. The aluminium pulleys have a grey anodising on them, looks smart but subdued, and the engine and inlet manifold is obviously silver aluminium coloured. The mounts are light silvery grey. I sold the powder-coated cross member the other day as someone needed one and I have the one in the car to use, so I'm toying with stiffening it and the rack mounts somewhat since its not painted nicely yet. Ill silver ceramic the headers too. Trumpets are silver, the throttles Ive rubbed back with the buffing wheel as far as possible and even lightly soda blasted them to remove the damn engine lacquer the importers put on them. Ill still probably lightly soak them in some degreaser for about 4 minutes to etch them back a tiny amount and even out their colour. The radiator is silver, so with the silver metallic paint on the car that I will be ising it should be a pretty clean ride. Oh the wheels are silver. The interior will be red and black, what little of it there is.

Been rocking this project every day this week. Suspension is almost ready to fit to the car, I spot welded the spring perches today so they cannot spin. I also have got the f diff installed and arranged to have the spacers I need made for the bottom bracket. I also have the Bigport n t50 combo removed from the car and put aside. I'm going to have a mate teach me how to rebuild engines with the 16v since it is completely unknown condition and has sat for 10 years. Shell was rolling for the first time in a year and a half!

I'm down for 10 street cred and 10 disco, and am keen to see what else you can come up with.

Me too. I even put new grease caps on. :yes:

Thats great! Street cred and disco are winning! Although the disco font seems more 60s Austin powers ke10 feeling that 70s disco ke30 to me.

dats timbooooooooooo

I think we need a font for each decade that corollas have existed. So that it can have a period style for whatever generation of rolla you choose. 60s, maybe a hotrod hand painted style lettering with scallops around it. 70s maybe something seriously disco feeling. 80s, well there is a font called street cred that would be 100% ideal for the 80s vibe. 90s, perhaps a font like the rap albums always had typically at that time, think xzibit, snoop, that kinda blinging wrapped around look. Some inspiration

Yep. You're the pleb I'm referring to. I don't know if you realise this, but in the legislation it states what you can and cannot do, so coming here and asking about specific engines is a joke. The document does not refer to many specific engines, just capacities and weights etc. Read the document, and stop expecting other people to explain the exact one part you give a ʞ©$ɟ about in an easy for a pleb to get format. A lot of people would have had those engines mod plated in the last 12 months, most before the rule change. A question that shows awareness of the world outside your bedroom, might have been "Has anyone gotten these engines mod plated since the rule change?" Having been on this site for years, we get these threads all the time, and its completely ignorant for you to ask what can and cannot be done to a bunch of people who arent qualified to pass your car when its done, who are all in different places with different ideas about what can and cannot be done. Get my point? Read the legislation - Form your own ideas about what you can do - Pass those ideas by someone qualified to pass your car and put your heads together to refine your plan - Then post it on the internet if you wish to share. You have done this: Form your own ideas about what you want to do - Post it on the internet. You've skipped the most important parts. If you wont read the legislation for yourself then you need to talk to someone who is informed on the laws (not generally the wider audience of a corolla forum). You can get in touch with your states transport authority and get a list of approved persons to look at your car. Then you can ring them and talk to them, many of them if you wish, and see how your ideas are received. Anyhow, you can suffer through it if you like, I don't really care. Keep being rude to people too, thats lovely.

Use toyodiy to compare the sensors. If they are the same then you have other issues, it may well send the ecu into limp mode if the 20v one is different.

Its a lot better if people take the time to read the NCOP for themselves, and understand things in the letter of the law. I could understand coming on a corolla forum and asking about specific points in the document for clarification, but I cannot understand someone who hasn't read it posting this drivel, and thinking we will filter and dumb down any info they may need a in a more brief format. Nor should any qualified automotive engineer have to waste their expensive time re-writing freely available info for plebs who cannot even be ʞ©$ɟed reading it for themselves. Reading legislation is one of the most tedious and rewarding parts of a well planned existence. Its ok once you get into it, and its nice to know the laws on issues that pertain directly to your most expensive habits.

The better wrestlers will sort him out mate. He hasn't fought anyone like Gray Maynard yet. Wait and see. He can grapple well, but is he on the level of the top 5 in the world? I think it remains to be seen. Max Holloway is a terrible grappler by Championship standards.

Just had the new rack ends fitted and a wheel alignment. Made a massive improvement. Also made some adjustments with economy in mind. Would the air flow meter adjuster back a tiny bit, lowered the idle and checked the base timing. I was also able to make more power upon first touch of the throttle by simply deleting the retard part of the vacuum dizzy control. Made a massive difference.

Yeah someone gave it a light tap in previous years, but the skin has really warped a lot more than the steel. Going to the mechanics this afternoon so I can have the new rack ends fitted. Then it should be a tonne better to steer. It was wandering a bit with the wider tyres now, its exposed how bad the rack ends are. Should be able to get a meaningful wheel alignment now anyhow.

The more modern car kids of today would call them a notch. In all official rego or Toyota documentation they refer to them as liftback and coupe, this being the coupe. There is also a rare sun-chaser convertible. This car needs springs and shocks so bad. I might leave it close to full height so its rally spec still.

Inspiriation for the look.