Rollaboy2608

be a bit more specific man... do you mean 13B into a KE30 corolla, or 13B into an AE86 corolla?

Well actually now that you mention it Wolf, it was on 2 fresh engines. I'm a mechanic and have never seen this sort of thing with any other motor. Both cams were run in correctly, so I find it hard to understand why it would be common??? Any explanation would be well heeded

Amen to that... I stress again that the manufacturers spend BILLIONS on development and know what is safe, and what isnt. There is a difference between street and track. Also Koni's are a fantastic option for a good, middle of the range, shock absorber

Without getting into a childish argument, I'm actually a mechanic by trade, and have worked in a well known Sydney performance workshop for some time. I do indeed own a KE30 rolla. Back in the 70's and 80's, I would agree with you that in most cases, cars had softer suspension setups. I disagree that cars are necessarily more controllable with stiff suspension. Many factors come into play with such a generalised statement. Factoring in Australia's shite road surfaces, controlability of a vehicle ultimately lies in the hands of the driver, modified suspension or not! At the end of the day, you can ask any mechanical engineer you want, and I guarantee you that they will say cutting springs is bad, which, if I remember correctly, was the original point of this discussion, not whether stiff suspension is better than soft suspension.

Head problems seem to be the norm here. I saw on 2 seperate occasions snapped cams, also numerous broken cam gears and the normal Nissan electrical problems. Not that this is confined to the one engine type, but snapped cams?? thats in the head design

I actually did a little bit of work on Ferraris at one stage, and if you have ever been in one you will find that they are generally a bone crunching ride. They do not accommodate for comfort(except in touring models,which is a whole other tangent) I can guarantee you that factory springs are designed with both comfort and handling in mind. A car without any handling whatsoever is an unsafe one at that. If you want to argue with a multi billion dollar industry then be my guest!! My guess is, you wont get far!! Also I did not cut through the next coil, the heat damaged the metallurgy by cutting it ,in my opinion

From my own experience, CA18 motors across the board are ridiculously unreliable...now wait for the abuse.....

I have to say there seems to be alot of heresay on this topic without the sufficient research. At the end of the day the car manufacturer poors billions into development, so I disagree when people say that factory springs are soft as. they are engineered for a balannce of comfort and handling. you must remember that as car owners we are a minority, and sharp as handling isnt number one on everyones list. After saying all that, I had a vehicle once in which I chopped that springs, and several days after this, one of the springs broke in half as I was leaving a driveway, causing extensive damage to both tyre and inner guard. Is $120 really that much for peace of mind????????????

my KE30 recently had a retrim in sand vinyl with red suede inserts, with red stitching, sports seats etc. and I must say it came out fantastic. The car is also red so it suits well. Having said all that, it was ridiculously expensive, but still cheaper than leather, as it needs to be purchased by the skin rather than by the metre. If I eva get off my ass and take some photos of the trim I'll post them here. Otherwise look in member's rides and you can just see the inside from a distance of about 5 metres. its under KE30

you could quite easily run coil packs for this setup with an ignition only programmable ECU. you would of course need a crank signal, which could be rigged up off the original dizzy when left in its place. As for the carby job, in Japan it is quite a popular setup to run especially on AE86. there should even be ready made manifolds available to do the job. Try Redline performance as they specialise in this sort of application...

I will say beerhead that I do agree in part with what you are saying. A fresh motor is indeed a better option than an import motor, although another thing to think about is that just about every guy that has ever built a big horsepower turbo motor based on these engines will always start with the GZE block. Not necessarily saying that a GE wouldnt cope but the GZE is tried and true. I once had a customer who was heavily involved with Toyota who had over 400hp from a turboed GZE with very few problems apart from fueling(the weakest link in his system). I also agree that a heavily worked GE is a fantastic motor,but even better is the 7A-fe block with a GE head....

if thats the case then I doubt I have a balance problem. I think I'm just gonna have to pull the box out and find out whats going on in there.I'll let you know what I find

amen to that brother

hi ikon do you recall whether the crankshaft had balance weights on it or not? I am under the impression that due to the larger crank in the 7K that it may have been necessary to externally balance the motor due to lack of room in the sump area.

Lukey my rolla has a 7K in it, its pretty much standard apart from an exhaust and filter, and it pulls very well down low, but a little wheezy up high. My only dilemna with it so far has been the box which you can check out in my thread 7K 5 speed dilemna. If you want any more info on installing this engine let me know.

Hi Simon, it depends which model it is? is it a twin cam engine or single cam carby? either way they are a relatively simple swap

Yes sbox the fingers on the virtually new plate were indeed lifted and worn. Sorry I probably should have mentioned this before. There was a trick i used to use that was actually specified by OS Giken for fitment of all their twin plate clutches whereby you would actually grind off part of the TOB stopper which covered the rear section of the spline but I can't remember how much meat was on that section. I guess its time to bite the bullet and pull the box out...

I must disagree there beerhead with a GZE you don't need to go and buy pistons etc or new injectors and all the other stuff. Thats alot of effort to go to when you can easily in half a day drop the GZE motor in with the factory computer and you can just drive away. I've done this conversion many many times as I used to work at a well known sydney performance workshop who specialised in this particular swap and the things are just bullet proof unlike the 4AGE which I actually owned at one stage. And by the way an adjustable fuel pressure reg is NOT the be all and end all to your fueling problems

could also be the variable fan resistor which is normally mounted behind the fan speed switch. Very common fault on most vehicles, as some speeds are used alot more regularly than others(especially speeds 1 and 2) and the contacts just wear out

you're injectors and fuel system will not cope with the added strain that boost places on the motor. Additionally, the GZE comes with semi forged pistons. You would also need all the induction piping etc. Simply adding aftermarket computer will not make up for the fact that your GE injectors can only flow a max rate no matter how much you tune it. once the GZE is in your engine bay the possibilities are virtually endless, unlike the GE

Had a similiar issue with an SS Torana I used to own with a holley set up. As Taz said the needle/seat combo was interchangeable between carbs and by fitting a higher capacity unit it eventually stopped the carbie catching on fire in the Maccas car park(yes that did actually happen haha)

if thats what it will take to fix this issue then so be it... KM20 liteace..which year model would that be? I only ask as most wreckers when you give them a model number they have no idea what you are talking about

The 7K flywheel will fit into the K series bellhousing, but only with a huge amount of mods. The inside of the K series BH must be ground away extensively, and even then the 7K clutch is too large and causes the TOB to be pushed back against the base of the spline. The result is no adjustment available and snapped clutch cables. Although I never had vibration when this setup was in the vehicle, again it just kept snapping cables. The million dollar question I suppose is.... Is the KM20 bellhousing and bigger internally than the standard K series bellhousing?

Taz Rx which year model did this box come out of? I had a look on the FAQ's and it says that the w50 is an extremely large box (supra 5 speed) and that I will need some serious tunnel mods to fit it?? other thyan that it sounds like my best option, although I just had 4 grands worth of interior done and I'm not looking forward to cutting sexy new holes in my new carpet hehe

Hi guys, my KE30 has complete new body rubbers throughout from Spectrum rubber in NSW. all door rubbers were moulded,and fit nicely. Outside window seals on the passenger doors were universal and had to be trimmed. Unfortunately the clown who trimmed mine trimmed them too short... this needs to be monitored and measured carefully when fitting, possibly having a good look at the old ones to ensure they fit nicely. The whole kit with everything was $675.